Best of Baltimore: Food

Brand Expansion Petit Louis Bistro & Comptoir When we heard that Petit Louis was expanding, we were concerned. How could the charm of the Roland Park venue, with its authentic bistro menu and straight-from-the-Champs-Élysées décor, be duplicated on a man-made lake in Howard County? And would a second location somehow diminish the charm for Louis loyalists? Pas de problem. At Louis on the Lake, there’s the same wonderful cheese selection, the almost-identical red velvet banquettes for quaffing bottles of Bordeaux, and an almost-duplicate menu of classic French fare, but with the added bonus of a Parisian-style comptoir for fresh-made pastries and patisseries. 10215 Wincopin Circle, Columbia, 410-964-999F9.

Blog 2 Dudes Who Love Food We give the 2 Dudes (Ellicott City brothers, Charles, 17, and Thomas, 15) two forks up for their spot-on food reviews. Whether reviewing Aldo’s Ristorante Italiano (“creamy, soft, butter-moistened rice was a fantastic complement to the warm, firm texture of the shrimp”) or enjoying crab cakes at G & M (“the broiled crab cake was prodigious!”), these teen tastemakers have an educated palate, as well as a way with words. 2dudeswholovefood.blogspot.com

Courtesy of 2 Dudes Who Love Food

Breakfast Miss Shirley’s Cafe With its Southern spin on the most important meal of the day, there’s nothing like breakfast at Shirley’s. What’s not to like, as we work our way through a trio of breakfast sliders (pulled barbecue chicken and pimento cheese really gets us going) or coconut cream-stuffed French toast. (Dessert and breakfast on one convenient plate!) It’s not easy to become a Charm City institution after a mere nine years, but Miss Shirley’s has done it. Three locations, including 513 W. Cold Spring Lane, 410-889-5272.

Brussels Sprouts Birroteca What is it about the Brussels sprouts at Birroteca that prevents us from pursuing any other veggie on the menu? (The eggplant “fries” with red pepper-caper mayo, though worthy, barely register.) Is it their flash-fried crispness with a hint of chili oil? Is it the tangy, caramelized black garlic aioli dipping sauce so good you can eat it on its own? Or is it the surprise slice of coppa tossed on top? Check. Check. And check. 1520 Clipper Road, 443-708-1935.

Burger Towson Tavern By nature, a burger is ordinary—there’s nothing that complicated about rolling chuck into a patty, salting, peppering, and applying heat. But beef lovers will be wowed by the architectural marvel that is the Tavern burger: a Black Angus round, topped with aged white cheddar, prosciutto, a slice of heirloom-tomato, and a mound of Bibb lettuce, embraced by a brioche, Boursin-slathered bun. All we can say is, “Open wide.” 516 York Road, Towson, 410-337-7210.

Charcuterie Other Corner Charcuterie Bar Sometimes, it can be hard to give in to our inner carnivore without feeling judged by our vegetarian friends. But at the Other Corner Charcuterie Bar, where a life-sized cleaver mounted on the roof beckons us inside, we feel free to indulge. Here, we cheerfully belly up to the charcuterie bar—think speck, sopressata, and chorizo swinging from ceiling hooks—to consume, unapologetically, magnificent mounds of well-marbled, cured meat. 850 W. 36th Street, 443-869-5075..

Ryan Lavine

Catch Of The Day Ouzo Bay When it’s fresh, there’s nothing sweeter than the unadulterated taste of fish served whole from the grill. And though there are plenty of fish in the sea, we’re convinced Ouzo Bay serves the best fish out of water. Dover sole flown in from the English Channel, buttery langoustines sourced from Norway, branzino brought in daily from Greece—throw in some braised green beans or steamed chicory on the side, and you’ll be hooked. 1000 Lancaster Street, 443-708-5818.

Chocolate Shop Rheb’s There’s no shortage of swanky candy stores in town, but we prefer ours a little less highfalutin. For unassuming, yet delicious, goodies, this old timey candy shop fits the bill. Ninety-seven years after Louis and Esther Rheb transformed their garage into a store, these time-tested treats—cashew clusters, peanut butter melt-a-ways, et al.—still satisfy (and need no slick “user guide” to extol ingredients). Whatever you pop into your mouth, greatness is evident in every bite. 3352 Wilkens Avenue, 410-644-4321.

Personal Bests: Coffee Houses

Comfort Food The Food Market When seeking comfort food, a fine-dining experience isn’t usually the goal, but this Hampden haunt offers that rare combination, highlighting foods that both soothe the soul and titillate the taste buds: cream of crab soup (our town’s answer to chicken soup), duck breast with corn spaetzle, and a signature casserole with fried chicken and biscuits, poached eggs, and “Cheese-Whiz.” If there’s such a thing as an edible embrace, this is it. 1017 W. 36th Street, 410-366-0606.

Crab Dish Ryleigh’s Oyster Eating crabs is something we take seriously in Baltimore, but after so many bushels to the wind, we tire of the usual presentations. Ryleigh’s gets two claws up for breathing new life into the official state crustacean with “crab pretzels”—made from True Blue-certified Maryland crab, mixed with Vermont cheddar, a slug of Sriracha, a shot of sherry, and a sprinkle of Old Bay, then served with homemade pretzel balls for maximum sopping opportunities. Two locations, including 22 Padonia Road, Hunt Valley, 410-539-2093.

Cupcakes La Cakerie Thanks to his cupcake victory on the Food Network’s Cupcake Wars, bakery owner and executive chef Jason Hisley is the reigning king of cupcakes. One step inside his new space and it’s easy to understand why—even away from the Klieg lights—his star status stands. The bakeshop turns out special-occasion cakes, cookies, and even savory snacks, but the cupcakes—maple bacon and lemon-cream pie—steal the show. Two locations, including 11 Allegheny Avenue, Towson, 443-275-4050.

Décor The French Kitchen We like industrial chic as much as anyone, but sometimes we prefer lush. Enter acclaimed designer Scott Sanders’s splendiferous space in the Art-Deco-era Lord Baltimore Hotel. With turquoise blue walls, gilded columns, and a heavenly, soaring ceiling, this is Versailles reimagined for the 21st century. Sanders found another muse, as well: The color scheme and Clarence House upholstered walls were inspired by Matisse’s Purple Robe and Anemones from the BMA’s Cone Collection. This room is his fitting homage. 20 W. Baltimore Street, 410-539-8400.

Scott Suchman

Fine Dining Charleston At a time when life is lived at warp speed, dining at Charleston practically forces us to slow down with its prix-fixe menu and optional wine pairings. But why would you want to rush it with food this good, and in a setting this beautiful? We could linger forever over the pan-roasted magret of duck or the Norwegian salmon in lemon-brown butter. And while other outlets—from Food & Wine to Bon Appetit—have taken notice, let us be the first to tell the judges at James Beard, who nominated chef Cindy Wolf as Best Chef Mid-Atlantic 2014, but didn’t give her the top honor, “We demand a recount!” 1000 Lancaster Street, 410-332-7373.

Food Gifts E N Olivier There’s no better hostess gift than a gourmet good from E N Olivier. With its beautifully displayed selection of imported, fruit-fused olive oils, unusual vinegars (try the cinnamon-pear balsamic blend over ice cream), and special sea salts, this Tuscan-inspired pantry has a knowledgeable staff and a thoughtful variety of unique gift items. We love the stainless-steel olive-oil fusti (containers) so we can taste the difference between blood-orange oil and Tuscan herb, as well as classical still-life paintings done by teachers from Baltimore’s Schuler School of Fine Arts. 1407 Clarkview Road, Suite 300, 410-823-6457.

Food Event The Emporiyum This two-day food fest had us glowing with hometown pride as dozens of area vendors, artisans, and big-name chefs, such as Aggio’s Bryan Voltaggio and Toki Underground’s Erik Bruner-Yang, flocked to Fells Point to schmooze, offer tastes, and highlight the best in food and beverage in the region and beyond. This event is a major feather in our cap and proof positive that Baltimore’s culinary scene has not only arrived, but is here to stay. theemporiyum.com.

Food Truck GrrChe What is it about the melty gooeyness of cheese on bread that makes our stomachs—and our hearts—soar? At GrrChe food truck, there’s something for every kind of grilled cheesehead. There’s the classic with melted cheddar on toasted sourdough, the lobster mac on grilled Texas toast, or the crab cone—a homemade crab cake with a medley of mac and cheese and melted Monterey Jack in a tomato-basil cone. Check the truck’s Facebook or Twitter accounts for where to say “cheese!” Grrche.com.

Christopher Myers

Granola WOOT! One handful of this gourmet gorp sold at Union Graze, Millstone Cellars, and other area farmers’ markets (plus online), and the difference is clear. Whether it’s a bag of cherry pecan with a mix of tart Michigan cherries and a kick of crystallized ginger or a handful of Moroccan Mix with sweet figs, dates, candied orange peel, and cardamom (all sweetened with Maryland maple syrup), every bite electrifies our palate. Mix it into brownies, add to yogurt, or eat straight from the bag — we’ll never tell. wootbygail.com.

Ice Cream The Charmery Baltimore is blessed with an embarrassment of riches when it comes to creameries, but this dairy den, with its whimsical, tongue-tripping, handcrafted flavors, makes us melt with desire. It’s appropriate that this Hampden ice-cream shop opened on the site of the old Chestnut Pharmacy, because their Old Bay Caramel, Fresh Mint with a Figgy Lime Swirl, and Berger cookies and cream is the cure to everything that ails us. 801 W. 36th Street, 410-814-0493.

Market The Fresh Market Between having to tussle with the scanner (we swear they hide the barcodes just for kicks) and dodge shopping carts in the parking lot, going to the grocery store can sometimes feel like a trial. Renew your faith at The Fresh Market, which takes the drudgery out of marketing. It’s just the right size, has a great inventory of high-end products and staples, and, best of all, they’ll carry your groceries to the car, so there’s no crying over (literal) spilt milk. 2510 Quarry Lake Drive, Pikesville, 410-580-1930.