In Good Taste

My Favorite Food From 2016

From dives to fine dining to food halls, here are the dishes I'll be thinking about into the new year.

White Bean Hummus at 1157 Bar + Kitchen
How much can you do with a lowly pile of chickpeas? A lot, as it turns out. Yes, the creative craft cocktails, fried chicken wings, and crispy octopus at this Locust Point bar are mighty fine, but the creamy white bean hummus, served with thick slabs of grilled bread, bursts with garlicky flavor and is memorably delicious.

The Ceviche at Magdalena
Every restaurant has their own version of ceviche these days, but the version at Magdalena, is a beautiful balance of acid, sweet, and heat with fat hunks of seafood, roasted sweet potato, pieces of popcorn, avocado and toasted pepitas.

The Crab Cake at Floyd’s Crossroads Pub
The crab cakes at Floyd’s are proof that great things happen when you’re least expecting them. I visited this charming neighborly spot with friends who wanted to crack crabs. But when one person in our party decided he didn’t want to be up to his elbows in Old Bay, he ordered the crab cakes. Made of Maryland jumbo-lump with zero filler and tons of seasoning, they were fantastic and flavorful.

The Ice Cream at Gunther & Co.
Pastry chef Aja Cage has an endless imagination when it comes to sweets. Her unusual ice cream flavors including roasted banana, sweet corn, frozen lime curd, and peach granita take dessert from meh to mind-blowing. If it exists, Cage finds a way to make into an essential ingredient in her ice cream.

Trout Amandine at Petit Louis
This remains one of my very favorite fish plates in Baltimore—served simply with slivered almonds and a proper pilaf, the delicate filet lifts right off the skin—and into your mouth.

Shrimp Salad Sandwich (and Utz Chips) at The Local Oyster
Yes, oysters of every kind are the headliners at this Mount Vernon Marketplace anchor, but the shrimp salad sandwich is stupendous. The shrimp are fat and local (whenever possible), the ratio of seafood to mayo is just right, and the soft egg bun ties the whole affair together.