Subscribe



Passage to India

Indian food finds its way to Little Italy.

By S.H. Fernando Jr. - April 2017

Review: Little India

Indian food finds its way to Little Italy.

By S.H. Fernando Jr. - April 2017

haldi jhinga grilled shrimp platter. -Photography by Scott Suchman

Get Baltimore Daily.

Sign up today and you'll get our latest stories delivered straight to your inbox every weekday afternoon.

Though there’s no shortage of Indian restaurants in town, after a few too many watered-down tikka masalas and bland buffets, we always welcome a new opening in the hopes of finding a real gem. Little India, which recently set up shop on South High Street in Little Italy, just might fill that bill. 

On the inside, the space—formerly occupied by India Rasoi and, before that, Yemen Arabian Restaurant—looks no different than it did under previous tenants. The same fluorescent lighting, drop ceiling, and dark wall-to-wall carpeting make it clear that this BYOB spot (aka the proverbial “hole in the wall”) did not receive a makeover. Strange as it may seem, that’s not necessarily a bad thing, considering the quality of the food in such establishments is often inversely proportional to the décor. Here, only a few Indian prints adorn the walls—a promising sign.

Another good sign: On a recent visit, our waiter, who promptly arrived at our table to take our order, turned out to be the son of chef/owner Chandar Sheknar. We tend to like chef/owners because they have more skin in the game, and this one popped out of the kitchen to check on his customers and answer questions. 

A mixed sampler of appetizers ($8) got us going. The platter included crispy lamb samosas, vegetable pakoras, and chicken poddy (think chicken tenders fried in a nutty chickpea flour), all of which disappeared in no time. For our main courses we ordered the goat vindaloo ($17) and the haldi jhinga ($18)—jumbo shrimp marinated in turmeric and served on a sizzling platter with onion, green pepper, and slices of fresh cucumber and carrot. The chunks of goat luxuriating in a tomato-based sauce were melt-in-your-mouth good, exhibiting a nice degree of heat. Though we would have liked a bit more kick, the plump shrimp were also well-executed. 

We rounded out the meal with sides of chickpea curry ($4) and mixed raita ($3), as well as the gorgeously flaky lachhaa paratha ($3), a northern Indian flatbread made out of whole-wheat flour and ghee, or clarified butter. The chickpeas and raita were perfect in their simplicity, and we would never order another naan if all Indian restaurants offered up paratha like this one—flaky, full of flavor. 

Ending on a sweet note, we opted for two standards—gulab jamun ($4) and Indian rice pudding  ($4). Like doughnut holes soaked in a rich syrup of sugar and rose water, the gulab jamun was served warm, contrasting with the cold creaminess of the rice pudding. It was a thoroughly satisfying way to end our meal.


›› Little India 411 S. High St., 410-385-4900. Hours: Mon.-Thu. 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-10 p.m., Fri. 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 5-10:30 p.m., Sat. noon-10:30 p.m., Sun. noon-9:30 p.m. Appetizers: $5-8; entrees: $16-22; desserts: $4.





You May Also Like


Food & Drink

Food Truck Guide

Celebrate the inaugural Baltimore Food Truck Week with fare from these mobile kitchens.

Food & Drink

Club Charles Comes Back to Life

The Station North staple gets resurrected.

In Good Taste

Italian Travels Inspired Molina Owners to Open R. House Pizza Stall

Local entrepreneurs debut New Haven-style pizza joint inside Remington food hall.


In Good Taste

Open & Shut: The Point in Towson; Parts & Labor; The Room

The latest restaurant openings, closings, and recent news.

In Good Taste

Everything You Need to Celebrate Thanksgiving 2017

What dishes to bring, where to dine out, and how to volunteer this holiday.

Food & Drink

Tagliata Scores in Harbor East

Dine here if you value impeccable service, fabulous food, and a glorious setting.

haldi jhinga grilled shrimp platter. -Photography by Scott Suchman

Connect With Us

Most Read


Foraged to Replace Aromes in Hampden This Month: Chef Chris Amendola’s first solo project will showcase his passion for foraging.

Ray Lewis Named Hall of Fame Semifinalist: Ex-Ravens great still generating controversy and expected to join Jonathan Ogden in Canton.

Urban Axes Will Bring Hatchet-Throwing and Beer to Highlandtown : Coming in 2018, new space encourages beginners to try axe-throwing.

Culture Club: Woke at City Hall, John Waters Christmas, and Grammy Noms: Our monthly roundup of openings, events, and news from the art world.

The Most Festive, Family-Friendly Holiday Events : From bright lights to dancing sugar plum fairies, enjoy these kid-friendly happenings.