Holding Court

Asian Court gets a new address in Ellicott City.

Richard Gorelick - May 2017

Holding Court

Asian Court gets a new address in Ellicott City.

Richard Gorelick - May 2017

-Scott Suchman

Get Baltimore Daily.

Sign up today and you'll get our latest stories delivered straight to your inbox every weekday afternoon.

Last summer, Luu Quoc Hung and Kay Chen, the husband-and-wife owners of the fantastic Hong Kong-style restaurant Asian Court, relocated their 7-year-old business from its original home in Ellicott City to five miles farther west on Baltimore National Pike. And though its new home in the Turf Valley Towne Square is more accessible to I-70—making the drive from Baltimore that much easier—we’re almost sorry the move was made. 

The new location is accommodating, an improvement over the original digs operating in the shadows of a tire shop. Even so, there was something about the original that let customers know they were in for an adventure. The interior was so drab that you knew the food had to be great. It looked just like a foodie find should. 

The food is still very special at the new Asian Court. There is evidence that an innovative chef is in the kitchen, and the dining experience is still dizzying, especially if you go for dim sum on a weekend, which you should. Asian Court actually serves a dim sum menu seven days a week, but on weekends it serves dim sum from carts—the dining room on a recent Saturday afternoon was merrily hectic. 

Brace yourself: Things happen fast. Carts wheel by, groaning with all manner of things on small plates, some of them—various dumplings filled with meat or shrimp—instantly recognizable. Others are less so, but try them. Only a few things, like the tripe and the chicken feet, feel like something out of Anthony Bourdain’s travels. Most items are surprisingly accessible, eye-pleasing, and delicious. 

You’ll definitely want to grab the har-ren, which are fried balls of minced shrimp, like bite-size versions of shrimp toast; the lo-bak-goh—turnip rice cakes (delicate, mild-flavored palate cleansers); and the nai-won-bao, one of several steamed bun options—this one filled with a slightly sweet egg custard.

Ask for the regular menu, because you’ll want to do some ordering from there, too. Here again, there are a few dishes that even experienced international diners might think twice about—sautéed pig intestine, anyone? But the majority of these dishes are just exotic enough to give you the feeling of eating something bathed in a halo of authenticity.

Chief among our favorites is the salt-and-pepper fish fillet, which dissolves meltingly on the tongue with each bite. Another favorite is jumbo shrimp served with walnuts in a mayonnaise-based sauce, kind of a Hong Kong-style Waldorf salad. You may consider separating a dim sum excursion from a menu-based meal. Once you get a taste of what Asian Court has to offer, you’ll have no trouble convincing yourself to return.

›› ASIAN COURT 11105 Resort Road, Ellicott City, 410-461-8388. Hours: Mon.-Sun. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Appetizers: $2.95-8; entrees: $10.95-32.95; desserts: $2.95.

You May Also Like

In Good Taste

St. Patrick’s Day Parties, Dinners, and Whiskey Specials

We highlight the best places to celebrate the beloved Irish holiday.

Food & Drink

Sip Tips: April 2018

These three drinks reflect distinct flavors of their region.

Food & Drink

The Social Network

How food bloggers, Instagrammers, and Yelpers are shaping the local restaurant scene.

In Good Taste

Atlas Owners’ Connection to Broadway Market Comes Full Circle with New Crab House

Alex and Eric Smith partner with Captain James to open seafood spot in Fells Point.

The Chatter

Labs@Light City Highlight a Pay-What-You-Can Model This Year

The discussions feature youth workshops and a new “maker” track.

In Good Taste

Hop to These Delicious Brunches This Easter Sunday

From homemade French toast to lobster crepes, these dishes make for an ideal holiday brunch.

-Scott Suchman

Connect With Us

Most Read

Halfway Through Light City, Crowds Continue to Flock Downtown : Tuesday night featured performances from an area step team and Fluid Movement.

Third Annual Rise Bmore Concert Pays Tribute to Freddie Gray: Musicians and artists gather to pay tribute to Gray and the city of Baltimore.

Review: I Feel Pretty: Despite its mixed message, Amy Schumer vehicle has some laughs and charm.

Maryland-Based Company Captures Milestones with 3D Photography: GoFigure 3D Photography creates lifelike figurines.

Hot Dog Race at Camden Yards Inspires a Fandom All Its Own: The Orioles production team explains the process behind the condiment race.