A Moveable Feast

At area restaurants, it's a wheel-y good show.

Micah Castelo - July 2018

A Moveable Feast

At area restaurants, it's a wheel-y good show.

Micah Castelo - July 2018


-Scott Suchman

With the rise of delivery apps and fast-paced food halls, our modern world prioritizes convenience and efficiency. Yet the finery of tableside preparation—the swiveling carts, the knife-wielding waiters, the pyrotechnics on wheels—is making a comeback.

Though the practice dates back to the Edwardian era when dishes were served a la francaise or a la russe in elegant banquet halls, it crossed the Atlantic Ocean and redefined dining in post-WWII America with its decadent flair. Now, diners pine for this old-school showmanship once more as restaurants keep them on the edge of their seats with flaming displays and theatrical flourishes.

Here are some restaurants that will leave you “ooh-ing” and “aah-ing” with their tableside fare.

Rec Pier Chop House
Salad artists put on a show as they cut, toss, and dress romaine into classic Caesars, complete with freshly cracked pepper, egg, and anchovies. 1715 Thames St., 443-552-1300

Minnow
Hot toddies take an experimental turn with a 10-minute vacuum infusion to enhance herbal and citrus flavors. 2 E. Wells St., 443-759-6537

Chopstix Gourmet
On weekends, a parade of carts rolls out of the kitchen and makes its way through roundtables with lazy Susans, transporting bite-sized dishes called dim sum (translates to “touch the heart”). 1201 67th St., Rosedale, 410-866-2903

The Black Olive
Select fresh fish from a seafood display and watch as it’s meticulously filleted and deboned right in front of you. 814 S. Bond St., 410-276-7141

The Bygone
Roasted Peking duck, stuffed with herbs and glazed with lavender honey, arrives at the table on a silver platter, then is set ablaze with brandy and overproof rum. 400 International Dr., 443-343-8200

Wit & Wisdom
Lobster pot pie gets deconstructed as servers remove the pastry lid and place its contents—Maine lobster, truffle-brandied cream, and vegetables——atop the thick crust. 200 International Dr., 410-576-5800





You May Also Like


On The Town

Drink Trends to Look Out For in 2019

From cannabis-infused drinks to entirely new sub-categories, this should be a wild year for craft beverages.

In Good Taste

Open & Shut: Peter Chang Restaurant; The Elephant; Cafe Andamiro

The latest restaurant openings, closings, and recent news.

In Good Taste

Why Baltimore Restaurant Week Feels More Important Than Ever

Despite recent closures, industry looks forward to starting 2019 on a high note.


In Good Taste

Chefs Dave Thomas and Johntay Bedingfield Chat About Winning Chopped

Two Baltimore chefs put Charm City on The Food Network map with recent well-deserved wins.

The Chatter

Baltimore Nonprofit Fuels a Hungry Community With More Than Just Food

The Food Project, of UEmpower of Maryland, is helping to revitalize Southwest Baltimore.

Food & Drink

Disco Fever

Italian Disco hits the right notes.

Connect With Us

Most Read


Ana Rodney Puts Maternal Health of Black Women at the Forefront: The doula and activist started MOMCares as a way to advocate for black mothers.

Union Craft and DuClaw to Both Release LGBTQ-Inspired Beers: Divine IPA and Unicorn Farts sour ale will each debut in March.

Sassanova to Open at Green Spring Station: Local shoe and clothing boutique to open third location

The First Maryland Vegan Restaurant Week Kicks Off: Local vegan advocates promote healthy lifestyle and inclusive community.

What to Expect from the Revitalization of Baltimore’s Historic Chinatown: Developers and community leaders plan a modern interpretation of the forgotten district.