A Moveable Feast

At area restaurants, it's a wheel-y good show.

Micah Castelo - July 2018

A Moveable Feast

At area restaurants, it's a wheel-y good show.

Micah Castelo - July 2018


-Scott Suchman

With the rise of delivery apps and fast-paced food halls, our modern world prioritizes convenience and efficiency. Yet the finery of tableside preparation—the swiveling carts, the knife-wielding waiters, the pyrotechnics on wheels—is making a comeback.

Though the practice dates back to the Edwardian era when dishes were served a la francaise or a la russe in elegant banquet halls, it crossed the Atlantic Ocean and redefined dining in post-WWII America with its decadent flair. Now, diners pine for this old-school showmanship once more as restaurants keep them on the edge of their seats with flaming displays and theatrical flourishes.

Here are some restaurants that will leave you “ooh-ing” and “aah-ing” with their tableside fare.

Rec Pier Chop House
Salad artists put on a show as they cut, toss, and dress romaine into classic Caesars, complete with freshly cracked pepper, egg, and anchovies. 1715 Thames St., 443-552-1300

Minnow
Hot toddies take an experimental turn with a 10-minute vacuum infusion to enhance herbal and citrus flavors. 2 E. Wells St., 443-759-6537

Chopstix Gourmet
On weekends, a parade of carts rolls out of the kitchen and makes its way through roundtables with lazy Susans, transporting bite-sized dishes called dim sum (translates to “touch the heart”). 1201 67th St., Rosedale, 410-866-2903

The Black Olive
Select fresh fish from a seafood display and watch as it’s meticulously filleted and deboned right in front of you. 814 S. Bond St., 410-276-7141

The Bygone
Roasted Peking duck, stuffed with herbs and glazed with lavender honey, arrives at the table on a silver platter, then is set ablaze with brandy and overproof rum. 400 International Dr., 443-343-8200

Wit & Wisdom
Lobster pot pie gets deconstructed as servers remove the pastry lid and place its contents—Maine lobster, truffle-brandied cream, and vegetables——atop the thick crust. 200 International Dr., 410-576-5800





You May Also Like


Food & Drink

Immune Boost

Plantbar owner Daniela Troia shares tips to kick your immunity into high gear.

Food & Drink

Local Flavor Live Podcast: The Return of Snowball Season

Plus, a farewell to three city restaurants and our best carryout bites of the week.

Food & Drink

Local Flavor Live Podcast: What Will Dining Rooms Look Like When They Reopen?

Mannequins, "bumper tables," and other social distancing ideas.


Food & Drink

Burger Kings

With four locations—and still counting—locals are flipping for the patties at Abbey Burger Bistro.

Food & Drink

Local Flavor Live Podcast: The Joy of Home Cooking

Plus, chefs share summer recipes, Whole Foods expands, and best bites.​

In Good Taste

Without Reservation: The Corner Pantry

We check in with area restaurants in these challenging times.

Connect With Us

Most Read


Design for Distancing Competition Aims to Revive The Beauty of Public Spaces: Forward-thinking social-distancing structures could be built in the city as early as this month.

How the Orioles Are Preparing for a “Pandemic Season”: Staying apart is the new team bonding experience.

The Womanist Reader Creates an Online Library of Black Literature: A Baltimore writer curates an evolving list of women writers for her women followers.

Bottoms Up Bagels Rolls Into Harwood: Owners debut their new “BUB Hub” at 28th and Greenmount.

Boxer Yahu Blackwell Is An All-Everything Businessman: The 33-year-old Baltimore native is the owner of the new Rita’s Italian Ice in Hampden.