A Moveable Feast

At area restaurants, it's a wheel-y good show.

Micah Castelo - July 2018

A Moveable Feast

At area restaurants, it's a wheel-y good show.

Micah Castelo - July 2018


-Scott Suchman

With the rise of delivery apps and fast-paced food halls, our modern world prioritizes convenience and efficiency. Yet the finery of tableside preparation—the swiveling carts, the knife-wielding waiters, the pyrotechnics on wheels—is making a comeback.

Though the practice dates back to the Edwardian era when dishes were served a la francaise or a la russe in elegant banquet halls, it crossed the Atlantic Ocean and redefined dining in post-WWII America with its decadent flair. Now, diners pine for this old-school showmanship once more as restaurants keep them on the edge of their seats with flaming displays and theatrical flourishes.

Here are some restaurants that will leave you “ooh-ing” and “aah-ing” with their tableside fare.

Rec Pier Chop House
Salad artists put on a show as they cut, toss, and dress romaine into classic Caesars, complete with freshly cracked pepper, egg, and anchovies. 1715 Thames St., 443-552-1300

Minnow
Hot toddies take an experimental turn with a 10-minute vacuum infusion to enhance herbal and citrus flavors. 2 E. Wells St., 443-759-6537

Chopstix Gourmet
On weekends, a parade of carts rolls out of the kitchen and makes its way through roundtables with lazy Susans, transporting bite-sized dishes called dim sum (translates to “touch the heart”). 1201 67th St., Rosedale, 410-866-2903

The Black Olive
Select fresh fish from a seafood display and watch as it’s meticulously filleted and deboned right in front of you. 814 S. Bond St., 410-276-7141

The Bygone
Roasted Peking duck, stuffed with herbs and glazed with lavender honey, arrives at the table on a silver platter, then is set ablaze with brandy and overproof rum. 400 International Dr., 443-343-8200

Wit & Wisdom
Lobster pot pie gets deconstructed as servers remove the pastry lid and place its contents—Maine lobster, truffle-brandied cream, and vegetables——atop the thick crust. 200 International Dr., 410-576-5800





You May Also Like


Food & Drink

Waves of Grain

How craft beer has become the backbone of Maryland agriculture.


On The Town

Ravens Game Day Food and Drink Specials for the 2019-2020 Season

The best purple parties at local bars and restaurants.



Food & Drink

Review: Larder

Larder feeds us from the inside out.

On The Town

Union Collective's New Winery Co-Op Will Offer Food Pairings and Barrel Tastings

A community of Maryland wineries will bring an Old World production style to the space.

Connect With Us

Most Read


The Book Thing Starts Next Chapter Under New Management: Here’s what to know when planning a visit to Baltimore’s free-to-all bookshop.

The Orioles Aren’t Moving Out of Town, But They Have a Long Way To Go: Putting a wrap on relocation rumors and the O’s predictable 2019 season.

Cardinal Art Walks Explore Works Outside of the Gallery's Bolton Hill Walls: The ongoing fall exhibition is meant to make participants see the city in a new way.

History of Baltimore's Bygone Synagogues Captured in New Plein Air Art Exhibit: Collection of oil paintings on view at Baltimore Hebrew Congregation through October 28.

The Mare Projects Connects Communities in the African Diaspora: Works from their first-ever residency program will be on display at Gallery CA.