It’s the skin that truly makes the chicken, as a member of our party observed during an immensely enjoyable dinner at this surprisingly sophisticated restaurant at Hobbits Glen Golf Course in Columbia. Chef Thomas Zippelli serves his bird alongside roasted apples and corn grits topped with charred onion. Both are excellent, but the crispness of the roasted chicken skin, which seals in juice and flavor without overcooking the meat, sets the dish apart. Like most of the menu (mushroom pot pie, wagyu carpaccio) on the night we visited, the chicken was locally sourced. It’s easy to be skeptical that a cutting-edge restaurant could thrive in a golf course clubhouse, but The Turn House is a hole in one.