COMING SOON

Döner Brös: Less than a year after launching this Oktoberfest-inspired food truck, owners Alex Politsch and Steven Banks are taking the concept to the next level by opening a brick-and-mortar restaurant in Charles Village this September. Known for its salads, fries, and wraps made with seasoned meat cooked on a vertical rotisserie, Döner Brös will join THB Bagels & Deli, Bird in Hand, and the recently debuted Red Star Bar & Grill in the Nine East 33rd development near the Johns Hopkins University campus. “Johns Hopkins University was always a home run for the food truck so it was only natural for us to open our first store here,” Banks said in a statement. “We are excited to add another unique cultural option to the already eclectic and dynamic neighborhood.” 9 E. 33rd St.

Bodhi Corner: Adding to the revival efforts on Chestnut Avenue in Hampden (a corner grocery store is expected to open in the former Play Cafe space in September) is this new Thai restaurant from the owners of Khun Nine Thai in Mt. Vernon. Expected to open in the former home of Café Cito later this summer, the spot will feature Thai staples including rice dishes, noodles, curries, and rotating vegan and vegetarian options made with beans, tofu, and seasonal vegetables. 3500 Chestnut Ave.

OPEN

Garden Party: Now, moms and dads have even more reason to love the splash fountain in the center of The Rotunda in Hampden. While watching their little ones run through the water, they can sip wine and enjoy snacks, sandwiches, and salads from this new outdoor dining concept operated by the owners of Avenue Kitchen & Bar. Open in the freestanding shack next to the fountain, Garden Party offers a food menu including tahini hummus, edamame guacamole, meat and cheese boards, mini Cubano sandwiches, and a Mediterranean chopped salad. The wine list features sparkling, red, white, and rosé blends from Europe that are available by the glass or bottle. 711 W. 40th St.

NEWS

101 Deli Bar: There is new blood in the kitchen at 101 Deli Bar in Federal Hill. Chef Brian Mahon, formerly of Wine Market Bistro and The Nickel Taphouse, has revamped the menu to include entrees such as Cajun shrimp and biscuits, PEI mussels, crab cakes with corn salsa, meatballs with ricotta and toast points, and a refreshing watermelon poke bowl topped with a yuzu glaze. Though Mahon has made a few additions, the menu still offers the spot’s mix-and-match charcuterie boards, signature cocktails, wines on tap, and boozy milkshakes. 1118 S. Charles St., 443-682-9480

Argosy Cafe: After three years at its current home inside the Munsey Building downtown, this popular breakfast and lunch spot will move into new digs later this month—but it isn’t going far. Argosy’s last day on North Calvert Street will be Sunday, July 15, and it is slated to reopen in the former home of New America Diner on North Eutaw Street at the end of August. Throughout its short-but-sweet run, New America became a go-to for greasy spoon favorites, community events, and local music showcases. Owner Fiona Sergeant recently told The Sun that running the restaurant took up more time and energy than she expected. Though the diner has now closed, she is working with the Argosy team to help keep the spirit of New America alive. “It’s been beautiful,” Sergeant posted to Facebook. “You have all been lovely.” 429 N. Eutaw St.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

7/6: Champagne & Fried Chicken Night at Chez Hugo

Though it might not seem like the ideal combo, champagne and fried chicken go hand-in-hand in the summer. As Southern Living puts it: “The effervescent acidity works as the ultimate grease cutter, keeping your palate crisp and clean as you chow through the salty deliciousness.” Chez Hugo Bistro is playing up the pairing this Friday night with an a la carte menu of fried chicken and sides, as well as discounted bottles of bubbly all evening long. 206 E. Redwood St. 5-9 p.m. 443-438-3002

ONGOING: Crabs and Crushes at Wit On The Water
Earlier this week, Wit & Wisdom inside the Four Seasons Baltimore brought back its annual crab feast menu featuring summer staples like steamed blue crabs, peel-and-eat shrimp, Old Bay fries, and mac and cheese. Offered daily from noon to 10 p.m. on the restaurant’s outdoor patio, the menu also highlights buckets of beer, wines by the glass or bottle, and the signature Wit & Wisdom Crush (Tito’s vodka, grapefruit or orange juice, Campari, maple syrup, and club soda) to help wash down all of the eats. 200 International Drive. 410-576-5800

SHUT

BAMF Cafe: The Station North community is already feeling the loss of this quirky cafe, which will operate through Artscape weekend and close its doors for good on July 23. “We want to thank the Station North community for its support and friendship,” owner Nicholas Springham wrote in a Facebook announcement earlier this week. “It has been a unique experience that we will cherish forever. With heartfelt gratitude, we wish our customers, neighbors, and employees the best in the future.” Throughout its three-year run, the sci-fi-themed hangout was known for its comic book club meetings, vegan and vegetarian dishes, and drinks named after popular superheroes. There’s no word yet on what will become of the North Charles Street space. 1821 N. Charles St., 667-930-3371

There’s a bit of a bubble effect in Baltimore. Neighborhoods tend to feel insular, and city dwellers are inclined to keep their dry cleaners, dinner dates, and drinking establishments all within a few blocks’ radius. And, like people, neighborhoods get reputations. This is particularly true in the neighborhood of Federal Hill, long known as a place for letting the good times roll.

“Federal Hill has always been labeled as a place to party,” says Sean White, who owns Banditos, Wayward, and 101 Deli Bar. “But there are a handful of us who want to change that perception.”

White is one of several bar owners who have rebranded or opened new properties in the neighborhood to try to cater to older and more upscale clientele. As luxury condos go up and more office space sprawls across city blocks, bars such as No Way Jose’s and Mad River have decided to change with the times.

“It does almost seem like all of us bar owners got together to plan this,” says Andrew Wheeler, operating partner at the former Mad River, now The Charles Baltimore. “But that wasn’t the case. We all took a step back and realized some things needed to change—a lot of it was getting away from that party reputation.”

Many of the bars decided to spiff up their spaces, knocking down walls to create a more modern ambiance, or adding more thoughtful food menus to attract patrons.

“Everybody was noticing that Federal Hill has grown up a bit,” says Don Messinese, general manager of One Star Country Club, formerly No Way Jose’s. “People have more options than they’ve ever had, so you have to set the bar high to stand out nowadays.”

Messinese points out that getting people to come into happy hour and then stay out for dinner was a challenge at Jose’s. In fact, a Wall Street Journal article found that, in 2015, Americans made 433 million fewer trips to restaurants at lunchtime, costing the restaurant industry nearly $3.2 billion in business.

“The happy-hour and dinner crowd has dissipated a bit,” White says, “so we want people to get excited about their food again—we run scratch kitchens and take pride in the products we put out.”

When Mad River got rebranded after 13 years, owners hired chef Cory Pastor (from Nickel Taphouse) to elevate the pub fare. And One Star Country Club, whose name is a tongue-in-cheek twist on the idea that everyone, including Yelp commenters, thinks they’re a food critic, also made some necessary adjustments.

“We overhauled our menu so the place would feel more food-focused,” Messinese says. “It’s easy to stay in tune with what people want, considering how often they throw their opinions around online.”

Patrons are also quick to share their opinions on how unsafe they feel Baltimore City has become, another hurdle these Federal Hill bar owners have had to deal with.

“Our demographic is mostly residents right down the street,” White says. “Things have been uneasy in the city for the past few years, so we’re not getting as much of that county influx. But Baltimore is a strong town and is known to bounce back.”

Bar owners say that they wouldn’t be reinvesting in their spaces if they didn’t believe the future was bright for Federal Hill. The renovation of Cross Street Market and prevalence of critically acclaimed eateries in the area, including Hersh’s and Minnow, are all good signs.

“We’re close to turning the corner,” Wheeler says. “For a while, we were losing an older demographic to Harbor East and Fells Point. But we’re on the cusp of a lot of great things happening in Federal Hill.”

French fries might be the most popular complement to a hearty burger or sandwich, but there’s something to be said for a quality order of crispy kettle chips. (Though we do also love a good bag of Utz from time to time.) Some of the area’s most addictive sliced spuds can be found at Todd Conner’s in Fells Point, where longtime cook Eric Mason fries up hundreds per day.

“Surprisingly, we get a lot of people who ask for chips as a side as opposed to French fries,” says Mason, who has been manning the kitchen for the past decade. “Actually, we have quite a few regular customers who come in to order them with their lunch and then take some with them to go. And we even have some who come in and say they just want chips.”

The process, says Mason, involves thinly slicing the crisps and deep-frying them in 350-degree oil. He cooks them until they’re golden brown, drains the excess grease, and then coats both sides in a powdered ranch seasoning to give them their signature flavor.

“People really like that we serve them warm,” he says. “But other than that, there’s really no secret ingredient. We just like to put a little extra love into them, of course.”

Aside from Todd Conner’s, there are plenty of other pubs whose house-made chips are sure to satisfy snack cravings. Here are our picks:

Abbey Burger Bistro: Though it seems like the side options are endless (think waffle fries, fried pickles, sweet potato fries, and tots), you can’t go wrong pairing one of Abbey’s massive burgers with a side of golden-brown crisps. If the salty snacks leave you with a sweet tooth craving, order one of the famed Berger Cookie shakes for dessert. Multiple locations including 1041 Marshall St., 443-453-9698

Delia Foley’s: The baskets lined with green-and-white checkered paper at this Irish staple in South Baltimore come overflowing with house-cooked kettle chips. The crisps are fried until golden brown and tossed in a signature Texas dry rub seasoning (cayenne, chili powder, onion, garlic, and salt), and served alongside all of the pub’s sandwiches, wraps, and grilled cheeses. 1439 S. Charles St., 443-682-9141.

Mt. Washington Tavern: You can’t go wrong with a crab cake or shrimp salad sandwich paired with an order of fried lattice chips at this Mt. Washington haunt, which has become a go-to for dinners with friends and cocktails in the upstairs Skybar. 5700 Newbury St., 410-367-6903

Nick’s Fish House: There’s nothing quite like a crab cake, shrimp salad, or pit beef sandwich on the patio at this waterfront dining destination in South Baltimore. But to make the meal even better, Nick’s serves all of its sandwiches with a side of crispy, house-made chips. Throw on your sunglasses and treat yourself to the perfect pairing—and be sure to order an Orange Crush for good measure.

The Velvet Chocolatier: Okay, okay. Chocolate-covered potato chips might not sound like the most conventional combo. But hear us out: The unique confections made at Ruthie Carliner’s Pikesville shop are a perfect combination of salty and sweet. A 6-oz. box of dark chocolate-dipped waffle potato chips goes for $25 and can be purchased online.

RegionAle: This Canton sandwich spot—which also operates its flagship in Ellicott City—tosses its house-fried crisps with signature salt and pepper, salt and vinegar, and Old Bay seasonings. They also fry up sweet potato chips, if that’s your preference. Stop in today to pair your hearty sandwich—think: everything from a toasty Cubano to Buffalo cauliflower on a roll—with a $1 order of chips in honor of National Potato Chip Day.

Recently, the Baltimore restaurant scene has been changing as often as an Italian chef stirs a good risotto. Of course, change is inevitable, but the turnover in the area’s dining landscape—whether it be closures, rebrands, or eateries going up on the market—has become significantly more frequent lately.

In fact, the Bureau of Labor Statistics reports that the number of eating and drinking establishments in Baltimore City has been steadily decreasing since 2013. (The number dropped from 1,613 to 1,539 from 2013 to 2016.) And recent headlines seem to support these numbers.

Following the closures of city-wide favorites including Metropolitan Coffeehouse & Wine Bar in Federal Hill, Tavern on the Hill in Mt. Vernon, and Bistro RX in Patterson Park, Locust Point’s Wine Market Bistro announced earlier this week that it would be closing after 13 years. While the spot’s front bar and wine shop will remain open for the foreseeable future, owner Chris Spann confirms that the dining room will operate its final night of service on Saturday, March 17.

“The bistro side was not hitting the necessary numbers,” he says.“It’s a hyper-competitive time for operators who have to compete against many skilled and highly-funded restaurateurs, as well as the talented young men and women with dedication and passion to create compelling concepts and cult followings.”

Though the number of restaurants is decreasing, the quality of the new ones opening in Baltimore has raised the bar. Fierce competition is something that Gia Fracassetti, who owns Cafe Gia in Little Italy, has noticed in the current culinary landscape.

“It’s obvious that we’re saturated with a lot of new outstanding restaurants,” she says. “I’m up for the challenge and I know a lot of my business neighbors are, as well. We’re very committed to making it work.”

According to the National Restaurant Association’s 2017 State of the Industry report, daily competition with other foodservice outlets remains a top challenge for large portions of the industry. On a national scale, more than two-thirds of restaurant operators cited competition and inability to attract new customers as significant or moderate challenges for their businesses last year. In Baltimore, some see lack of customer acquisition relating to parking problems and crime issues.

“It’s tough to get diners down here,” Sean White, owner of 101 Deli Bar in Federal Hill, recently told us. “We’re the only neighborhood that’s permit parking, so we do the best we can. A lot of the demographic is the residents in the neighborhood.”

He adds that, as the dining scene continues to thrive in Baltimore County and other surrounding areas, some county dwellers aren’t willing to make the trip into the city. Fracassetti has had similar experiences, adding that the negative perception of the city has deterred visitors from strolling around Little Italy.

“We’ve seen a difference in foot traffic,” she says. “Our neighborhood is definitely one of the safest, but in Baltimore as a whole, when one community is suffering, we all suffer. We all take that on. We really need to pull together as a city and start to turn the tide here.”

Fracasetti stresses the importance of making neighborhoods pedestrian friendly—something that she says will, in turn, drive foot traffic to restaurants and other small businesses.

“It’s really important to go outside and sit on the steps, which is what I was raised doing,” she says. “We all have to be out and about embracing our city and going out into the neighborhoods. That’s vital in order for us to move beyond this.”

OPEN

101 Deli Bar: The team behind Federal Hill hotspots Banditos Bar & Kitchen and Wayward Smokehouse expanded their presence on South Charles Street last week with this modern deli concept. Boasting touches like turquoise tile and walls lined with interior greenery, the trendy spot specializes in craft cocktails, worldly wines, local beer, and a menu of comfort foods. Be on the lookout for eats including mortadella sliders, double-stacked burgers, jalapeño-smoked wings, and hand-spun milkshakes. 1118 S. Charles St.

Charm Kitty: Charm City’s first feline-friendly cafe opened its doors in Hampden’s Whitehall Mill last week. Inspired by cat cafes all over the world—the first opened in Taiwan in the late ’90s, and they’ve become all the rage ever since—the hangout serves as a spot to unwind among adoptable cats. Aside from being a co-working space for students to study while enjoying local coffee and cookies, the gathering place will also be used for community events such as cat yoga and movie nights. (Cat In the Hat, anyone?) Admission to the reservation-based cafe ranges from $10-20. 3300 Clipper Mill Rd.

Georgia Grace Cafe: Ellicott City recently welcomed this new Greek gem to Main Street. Of course, the eatery offers the classics (think spanakopita, souvlaki, and baklava), as well as creative breakfast fare such as omelettes and crepes. In addition to all of the dishes, the cafe highlights cappuccino, espresso drinks, and breads sourced from nearby bakeshop The Breadery. 8006 Main St., Ellicott City, 410-988-8052

Showroom: Station North arts hub Motor House celebrates the grand opening of its new eatery and performance venue on Friday, Oct. 6. Named after its roots as a former Ford automobile showroom, the 2,800-square-foot cafe features an international menu—dishes include everything from Texas brisket to Peruvian chicken—helmed by local chef Daniel Horwitz. In keeping with Motor House’s mission, the space features its own stage, DJ booth, and walls lined with local artwork. 120 W. North Ave., 410-637-8300

COMING SOON

Zinburger: If you’re interested in learning about wine-and-burger pairings, this new Hanover eatery has got you covered. Zinburger is slated to debut in the dining pavilion at Arundel Mills Mall on October 17, focusing on craft burgers and international vino varieties ranging from pinot to Petite Verdot. Menu highlights include turkey burgers, bunless options, and the chain’s signature patty topped with Zinfandel-braised onions. 7000 Arundel Mills Circle, Hanover.,

PIZZA PRESS

Charm City Pizza: Opening on Oct. 24, this new pizza palace will join the likes of Aggio and Leinenkugel’s Beer Garden at Power Plant Live. Taking over the former home of Joe Squared—which now operates solely in Station North—Charm City Pizza will feature hometown spins including crab-artichoke pizzas and salads topped with Old Bay croutons. In keeping with the theme, the spot will also boast Baltimore-inspired décor and servers decked out in local Route One Apparel. 34 Market Pl.

Homeslyce: This local pizza chain is growing its presence in the Baltimore area and beyond. The shop, known for its signature boat-shaped “slices” that resemble Turkish pides, is expected to debut a new location in the Foggy Bottom neighborhood of Washington, D.C. by the end of October. Later this year, the eatery will open its fifth Charm City spot in the former PJ’s Pub space in Charles Village. Though PJ’s was a longtime favorite of Johns Hopkins students and alumni, Homeslyce owner Haluk Kantar is confident that his concept will catch on with locals. “Nobody can fill [PJ’s] shoes,” he recently told us. “But we’re going to do whatever we can to fit in with Hopkins’ master plan for the community.” 3333 N. Charles St., 410-243-8844

Molina Pizze & Polpette: Featuring everything from arepas and falafel sandwiches to poke bowls and bibimbap, R. House has something to please seemingly every palate. But one item that Remington’s communal food hall has yet to offer is pizza. That will change in the coming weeks, as the market welcomes Molina Pizze & Polpette. The New Haven-inspired pizzeria and meatball shop comes courtesy of J.J. Reidy and Christian De Paco of local farming collective Urban Pastoral. In collaboration with chef Melanie Molinaro—who runs Stall 11 at the market—the duo has crafted a menu that features Neapolitan pizzas including the “Parma” (parmigiano reggiano, prosciutto, and local arugula) and “The Terra,” topped with lemon-sunflower seed pesto, crispy kale, cashew ricotta, and roasted squash.  301 W. 29th St. 443-681-1907

EPICUREAN EVENTS

10/7: Azumi at Baltimore Reads

In an effort to improve childhood literacy rates, City Councilman Zeke Cohen is bringing together local businesses, community groups, and nonprofits at Patterson Park this Saturday for an afternoon of reading to our city’s youth. Executive chef Andy Gaynor of Azumi in Harbor East will also be getting in on the fun, teaching a kid-friendly sushi class at the event. Gaynor will be on-hand to help tykes craft their own rolls made out of ingredients like cereal treats, Swedish Fish, and fruit roll ups. Patterson Park Pavilion 2, 10 a.m.-1 p.m., free.

10/8: The Smoke Show

Mark your calendar for this epic barbecue collaboration between chefs Chad Gauss of The Food Market in Hampden and Josh White of Cockeysville ’cue joint Smoke. The tailgate-style event will feature a menu that fuses the styles of both restaurants, with eats including potato soup with smoked Gouda croutons, pastrami sandwiches with beer cheese fondue, smoked carrots, Korean barbecue ribs, and smoked pumpkin s’mores. There will also be a live DJ, photo booth, screens for viewing the Ravens game, and plenty of local libations to wash down all of the bites. Whitehall Mill, 3300 Clipper Mill Road, 3 p.m., $55

10/11: Joint Venture Pop-Up at Parts & Labor
New York City chef Danny Newberg, formerly of hotspots Estela and Momofuku, is bringing back his trendy pop-up Joint Venture next week. After a successful dinner series at Artifact Coffee and Parts & Labor last year, Newburg is returning to the Remington meat Mecca to host an all-out barbecue. Offerings will include fried fish sandwiches, rockfish collars, ceviche, and special wine slushies. 2600 N. Howard St., 6 p.m., a la carte pricing.

10/16: A Night with David Tanis
Celebrated chef and food author David Tanis is stopping by sister-spots Bird in Hand and Woodberry Kitchen to promote his new cookbook David Tanis Market Cooking: Recipes and Revelations, Ingredient by Ingredient. Guests are invited to enjoy a casual signing at Bird in Hand, followed by an intimate supper and talk with Tanis at Woodberry Kitchen. Bird in Hand, 11 E. 33rd St., 6p.m., free & Woodberry Kitchen, 2010 Clipper Park Road, 8 p.m., $75.

SEASONAL SPECIALTIES

Haenyo at PekoPeko Ramen: Local industry veterans Collin Morstein and Irvin Seo debuted this Korean street food pop-up a few months ago at Holy Crepe Cafe in Canton, and have been making their mark all over the city ever since. To mark the turn in temps this month, the guys are turning PekoPeko Ramen in Charles Village into a traditional Korean Stewhouse. Every Monday throughout October, warm up with dishes like seolleontang (white beef stew), miyeok-guk (seaweed stew), sundubu-jjigae (soft tofu stew) and beoseot-tang (local mushroom stew). 7 E. 33rd St., 5-10 p.m.,

Minnow: This new South Baltimore spot recently rolled out weekend brunch. Every Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m., Minnow will serve plates including fried chicken and blue corn waffles, dry-aged burgers on squid-ink buns, and a Spanish omelet with potato, egg, nutmeg, and lemon aioli. Drink selections will also be plentiful, with seasonal options including pumpkin lattes and chocolate peanut butter cold-brew coffees. 2 E. Wells St., 443-759-6537

SHUT (FOR NOW)

b A Bolton Hill Bistro: Last week, the management team behind this beloved Bolton Hill spot took to Facebook to announce some major changes in the works. “B is temporarily closed while we reorganize to develop a new concept for our valued guests,” the post reads. Although there’s no word yet on the new concept, we’re excited to see what’s next for the restaurant owned by the Karzai family—which also operates city spots The Helmand, Helmand Kabobi, Tapas Teatro, and Pen & Quill. 1501 Bolton St., 410-383-8600