At the newly opened AJ’s Deli inside Mount Vernon Marketplace, purists will recognize the classic fried bologna hot dogs and pastrami sandwiches. But the modern-industrial looking stall, which highlights eight bar seats equipped with charging stations for phones and laptops, also offers beer and wine, a potato-latke eggs benedict, and sandwiches filled with “tuna-cado” salad—a healthier version of traditional tuna mixed with avocado as a binding substitute.

“Mayonnaise-heavy deli sandwiches are of a bygone era,” says AJ’s owner Alan Morstein, whose concept mirrors a deli he formerly operated in Ocean City more than 35 years ago, but with an updated twist. “It’s all part of this new wave of delis.”

The vibe at AJ’s is indicative of a larger trend across the country. As old-school Jewish delis continue to shutter their doors, new ones are modernizing their menus in order to change with the times. At the weeks-old Call Your Mother Deli in Washington, D.C., an Instagrammable wall mural greets diners looking to sample dishes like whitefish croquettes and a bagel schmeared with candied salmon cream cheese, crispy shallots, and micro radishes.

“There’s a whole different style now,” Morstein says. “It’s not like what my parents used to take me to, and it’s not like what I used to take my kids to. It’s where my kids are taking me now.”

Diners across the country began to take a hard look at what the future held for old-school sandwich shops two years ago, after the iconic Carnegie Deli in New York City sliced its final corned beef-on-rye. Since then, owners have repeatedly cited retirement and the rising costs of quality meats and ingredients as part of the reason for the dwindling number of delis.

“I don’t think we’re going to see any more real, full-service delis open very often, if ever again,” says Alan Smith, owner of Lenny’s Delicatessen in Owings Mills, which also has a spinoff inside Horseshoe Casino. “It costs a lot of money to do it, and you need a lot of help.”

Baltimoreans started to feel the void in the spring of 2017, when Lenny’s closed its 26-year-old Lombard Street location on Baltimore’s famed “Corned Beef Row”—a once-bustling food district that now houses its last remaining delis, Attman’s and Weiss.

When Smith was approached by the nearby Helping Up Mission about taking over the space last year, he decided that it was the right time to close the Lombard Street staple and focus his energy on his other two locations. Soon after, Suburban House shuttered in Pikesville, and, just last month, Mueller’s Deli closed in Northeast Baltimore.

“I don’t think delis are closing down because of lack of business, I think it’s because people don’t want to get into the business anymore,” says Neil Parish, who opened The Essen Room in Pikesville last fall. “Back in the olden days, it was much easier to get product and to get help to make the product. Finding help is next to impossible now. People are using pre-cut nova because they can’t find anyone to slice it.”

In a time when many new deli owners are updating their dishes, Parish decided to go back to basics with a menu highlighting old-world items like kugel, knishes, and kreplach. Though he says he is constantly given feedback about his prices, he sticks to the philosophy that quality “always wins out.”

In fact, many of the remaining family-owned eateries are committed to upholding the time-honored traditions established by delis of yesteryear. Smith, for example, says that the menu in Owings Mills hasn’t changed since Lenny’s first opened its doors in 1985, and he doesn’t plan to modernize anything any time soon.

“It’s hard work, but I’m not tired of doing it,” Smith says. “We have no plans to go anywhere. It’s all I’ve ever done—I don’t know how to do anything else.”

And while the city may never return to the heyday of traditional delis operating around every corner, with a few standbys still going strong, a classic corned beef sandwich won’t ever be hard to come by.

“I don’t believe that the concept of a Jewish deli is dying,” Parish says. “Where other guys are going out, there are still some of us left who really want to spread the message.”

Across baseball stadiums and backyard barbeques, in greasy spoons and upscale eateries, hot dogs are inescapable this time of year—not that we’re complaining. The National Hot Dog and Sausage Council estimates that each summer from Memorial Day to Labor Day, Americans consume around seven billion hot dogs. That’s 818 franks per second. No matter what you call them—wieners, frankfurters, dogs—this Wednesday is your chance to celebrate with one or two of these classic American eats. Here, we round up some of the very best hot dogs in the city:

Stuggy’s: Whether you’re visiting their cozy Fells Point location or enjoying an O’s game at Camden Yards, Stuggy’s is one of those quintessential Baltimore eats. The family-owned institution serves up fan-favorite franks named after the likes of Bruce Lee and Frank Zappa, but you’re probably there for one reason: their crab mac-and-cheese dog. Piled high with homemade macaroni and lump crab, plus a generous dusting of Old Bay and a twist of lemon, it’s a homegrown delicacy that always hits the spot. 809 S. Broadway St., 410-327-0228

G & A Restaurant: G & A has called Eastern Avenue home since 1927, and with 90-plus years of experience, this down-home luncheonette has had plenty of time to figure out the ideal Coney Island-style hot dog. The dogs are grilled to perfection and heaped with chili, mustard, and raw onion, all for just $2.30 a pop. G & A also comes approved by celebrity chef Guy Fieri, who featured the restaurant on his Food Network show Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives. 3802 Eastern Ave., 410-276-9422

The Heavenly Hotdog Grill: Every day is a cookout at Heavenly Hotdog Grill. The Northeast Market establishment serves backyard favorites like mac and cheese, collard greens, and pit beef, but don’t miss their eponymous grilled franks. Try canine-themed dogs like the Great Dane—which is topped with lettuce, tomato, mayo, and sirloin steak—or the Flamin’ Dog, which boasts two kinds of peppers and jalapeño cheese. Better yet, none of the varieties cost more than $6. 201 E. Monument St., 410-831-7905

Snake Hill: The jury is still out on the practice of categorizing sausages as hot dogs, but Snake Hill is just too good to pass up. The Highlandtown tavern’s menu is built around cased meats of all varieties, including classics like pork and chicken and more exotic options like alligator, duck, and eggplant. Sample bites like the Pho-Q with pork, Sriracha, fennel, and Thai basil, and the Natty Boh brat, a bratwurst made with Baltimore’s favorite beer. 418 S. Clinton St., 410-469-9003

Haute Dog Carte: “Haute” is the right word for the creations at this Falls Road staple, run out of a converted garage by chef Daniel Raffel. Their offerings change daily, and they’re never boring—recent varieties included a bison dog with cherry chili barbeque sauce, a pizza dog, and chicken jalapeño dog with mango salsa. They’re only open Wednesday through Sunday until 2:30 p.m., so escape the office and celebrate the holiday with a gourmet lunch. 6070 Falls Rd., 410-608-3500

Attman’s Delicatessen: One of the few remaining holdouts of the famed Corned Beef Row, Attman’s is an old-school Jewish deli that boasts a following well beyond Baltimore. Their jumbo dogs come with bologna on top and optional additions like relish, onions, and chili—a treat that looks and tastes like it’s transported straight out of the Lower East Side. Pair it with a pickle and a heaping of French fries for a cheap, authentic meal. 1019 E. Lombard St., 410-563-2666