Up until recently, walking through Cross Street Market has felt like the 172-year-old Federal Hill landmark had all but been forgotten. The twenty-somethings filled the bars across the street, while inside, the majority of stalls stood empty, aside from stalwarts like the giant-beer-peddling Nick’s Oyster Bar and the greasy spoon Steve’s Lunch. It almost didn’t faze you: Another Baltimore icon bites the dust. When do the condos go up?

But after much to-do, the historic market will soon get a second chance, thanks in large part to a $7.3 million redevelopment project by the Towson-based Caves Valley Partners. With renovations currently underway, the development firm is now closing down the Light Street side of the block-long market for 90 days, which will then be reopened in two phases. 

One of our favorite vendors that we got to experience before the market’s major changes was, in fact, a pop-up—one of four to open there this year. As the sister eatery of Mt. Vernon’s Dooby’s, the trendy Sundays bakehouse has spent the past few months hawking the drool-worthy donuts that owner Phil Han first introduced to the city in 2017, with an added focus on fried chicken and the age-old saying: “put an egg on it.”  

Located near the market’s east entrance, the temporary space is open through this weekend, with hopes of returning when renovations are complete. As at Dooby’s, Han has taken the minimal, modern approach to this menu, too. There are the donuts, of course, in a cornucopia of bright colors and fantastical flavors, ranging from the ganache-covered “Berger Cookie,” inspired by Baltimore’s iconic sweet treat, to the savory “NY Bagel,” filled with scallion and jalapeño cream cheese and topped with a heavy dusting of spot-on “everything” seasoning.

Some lovely salads are on hand, too, such as the market greens with pear chunks, dried cranberries, and goat cheese crumbles, but the sandwiches are the stars. The classic fried chicken is the best of its kind in the city, smothered in a smoky ancho chili aioli with bread and butter pickle chips on a buttery brioche bun. And the fried egg avocado BLT has the trappings of a weekend go-to, with its modern take on New York City’s beloved egg-on-a-roll that meets millennials’ insatiable appetite for anything associated with guacamole. (Plus, it’s smeared with herb aioli butter.) And then there are the crinkle-cut fries, which instantly transported us back to our youth. 

With Dooby’s coffee on hand for workday pick-me-ups and hangover cures, this cool carryout spot has been a more-than-welcome addition to the changing face of Federal Hill. And a good sign for what Cross Street Market might become. We sure do hope that they return.

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›› SUNDAYS 1065 S. Charles St., 410-424-0857. Hours: Tues.-Sat. 8 a.m.-6 p.m., Sun. 8 a.m.-3 p.m.

“How do I love thee?” Let us count the ways—a dozen doughnuts, a
handful of chocolates, two almond croissants, and three scoops of ice
cream. 

Okay, maybe that’s not exactly what Elizabeth Barrett Browning
had in mind. But sonnets aside, sweets and love are a natural pair any
time of year, especially in February when a gift of candy means more
than calories on Valentine’s Day. In fact, it’s the fourth biggest
holiday for confectionery purchases (after Halloween, Easter, and
Christmas), according to candyusa.com. With that in mind, we went in search of the best sweets that Baltimore has to offer.

A heart-shaped box might be nice, but there are lots of other ways to
woo your lover’s sweet tooth. Here are 50 of our favorite treats.

Fractured Prune

Several locations including 8705 Harford Rd., Parkville, 410-661-9999.

This
offspring of the original Ocean City hotspot stays true to the mother
ship with a purple-and-green color scheme and doughnuts baked to order. A
tray on the counter tempts you with colorful offerings, including Oreo
cookie, Almond Joy, s’mores, and thin mint. It takes only minutes for
the fragrant, hot doughnuts to be placed in your hands.

Editor’s pick: “O.C. Sand,” a honey-glazed round coated with cinnamon sugar.

Donut Shack

497 Ritchie Hwy., Severna Park, 410-544-0278.

The
scent alone——wafting with honey and cinnamon——will hook you when you
walk into the store. Brightly lit shelves are laden with all manner of
doughnuts——about 20 varieties in all. The bakery, family-owned for
almost 30 years, has an added bonus: It’s open 24/7 to satisfy your
cravings any time of day. But bring cash. No plastic accepted.

Editor’s pick: The honey-dipped doughnut.

The Fenwick Bakery

7219 Harford Rd., Parkville, 410-444-6410.

At
100 years, the bakery is wearing its age quite well, thank you,
continuing to churn out pastry cases full of confections for the next
generation of visitors. Customers will find pies, birthday and wedding
cakes, cookies, breads, and doughnuts among the offerings in the
storefront staffed by motherly clerks.

Editor’s pick: The chocolate-glazed cinnamon buns.

Herman’s Bakery

7560 Holabird Ave., Dundalk, 410-284-5590.

You
know you can trust a family-owned bakery that has been around since
1923 and at its current location since 1958. The cases are filled with
cookies, strawberry shortcakes, éclairs, and doughnuts, including a
marshmallow-filled one that almost requires a spoon.

Editor’s pick: The plump, sugar-dusted jelly-filled doughnut.

Hoehn’s Bakery

400 S. Conkling St., 410-675-2884.

The
beloved bake shop in the heart of Highlandtown has been making
customers smile since 1927 with its made-from-scratch products. Inside
the corner store, the air is perfumed with yeast and sugar as friendly
neighbors stop in for their regular treats. And there are goodies
galore, from cookies and doughnuts to smearcase (Baltimore’s own type of
cheesecake).

Editor’s pick: The airy marshmallow-laden doughnut.