From his former steampunk dive bar Fork & Wrench in Canton (which is closed and up for auction) to his eye-catching mixed-used space Modern Cook Shop in Fells Point, restaurateur Andy Gruver is known not only for owning cool spaces but designing them, too.

In fact, these days the talented artist-restaurateur is spending more and more time in the basement of his studio at Natty Boh Tower, where he builds up business for Gruver Design, his eponymous company. “I’m pretty handy,” Gruver says. “It doesn’t take much for me to pick something up.”

How did you become interested in design?

Growing up, I was always interested in art and design. I was born in Holland, and my uncle over there is an artist. Growing up, we’d travel back there a lot and it spiked my interest.

What kind of inspiration did Holland provide?

Holland was a second home. We’d visit Heerlen, which was a five-minute walk from Germany, every few months. That’s where I picked up a lot of the feeling of what I do. Living over there is so different than the U.S. If you go to a coffee shop, chances are, the mug was handmade. I’d visit family there and all the paintings on the walls were ones they did themselves. My uncle also did a lot of woodwork and sculpture.

Did you ever study art more formally?
I was accepted to the Corcoran College of Art and Design in D.C. and went for a brief period, but I left to be in a rock and roll band, so it didn’t work exactly out. But it’s a lifelong endeavor. With everything I do, I try to have some design sense or some artistic aspect around it.

What mediums do you work in?
I’ve done all kinds of things since I got into the restaurant business, whether doing interior design for my restaurants or making actual furniture. I paint and sculpt. At Modern Cook Shop, I made all of the tables and chairs. At Fork & Wrench, I came up with the interior design and built everything from scratch. I work in metal and wood and glass. I’m going to get into making custom lighting. If I had a kiln, I’d make pottery.

I know you’ve talked about doing design work for other clients. How’s that going?
It seems like there’s really a need for it—and I’m putting my name out there. I have a number of residential and commercial projects including one with [Clavel’s] Lane Harlan. I built an Art Deco-style speakeasy bar for Westminster American insurance company in Owings Mills. Now the owner wants me to build a bar in the basement of his new home. I also did a custom-etched mirror with his logo. I want to pursue this as a more serious aspect of what we do and am working on a website.

With fewer patrons visiting city restaurants, what has it been like for you to try to run Modern Cook Shop?
We bootstrapped Modern Cook Shop using Fork & Wrench money and that was pretty difficult. It’s a sign of the times. Baltimore is more difficult right now, but it won’t be long before things are back to normal. Nothing is set in stone yet, but I definitely want to focus on the design work.

You opened one of Baltimore’s first gastopubs with Fork & Wrench and then gave us Modern Cook Shop, an entirely new concept for the city with a marketplace inside the restaurant. What else do you wish Baltimore had that it doesn’t?
We’re on the water and we don’t have a lot of great seafood. You don’t find these really authentic restaurants and that doesn’t make sense to me. I’d like to see more of those.

How have you seen the food scene change here?
I’ve been in Baltimore going on 15 years. There have always been a couple of gems like Peter’s Inn that inspired me to do Fork & Wrench. Baltimore is growing—it’s on the verge of exploding. But had we not had the unrest that we had a few years back, things would look different today.

As Baltimoreans become more sophisticated in their culinary tastes, does it make it harder to survive as a restaurant?
Restaurants have to try harder, and that’s a good thing.  

So, what’s the ultimate dream for you career-wise?

I will always open restaurants, but I’m really enjoying the design work, and this is where I’ll be focusing my attention. There’s a design firm in Brooklyn called AvroKO that inspires me. I like their philosophy. When I’m doing design work, I come in and get to know someone whether it’s a restaurant I’m designing or a residential project. They show me a few ideas and I come up with the design. I’m fond of antiques that have been done well, though something new is perfectly nice, too. In a perfect world, I would have time to build cool, heirloom furniture and then be known for design and install in great restaurants. That’s who I want to be. In a weird way, it’s all been leading up to this.

OPEN

Pie in the Sky: Fells Point diners were saddened when Turkish outpost Mare Nostrum closed its doors on Broadway Square last summer. But now, former Mare Nostrum co-owner Murat Mercan has breathed new life into the building by turning it into a BYOB pizza and pasta joint. Pie in the Sky opened quietly earlier this month, offering overstuffed sandwiches, massive calzones, chicken wings, salads, and scratched-made pizzas. Toppings include everything classic pepperoni to vegan and vegetarian varieties (think spinach, artichokes, and Portobello mushrooms) on gluten-free crust.  716 S. Broadway, 410-522-3222

COMING SOON

Hotel Revival: Earlier this week, Mt. Vernon’s yet-to-open boutique hotel revealed details about its dining offerings. In addition to its 107 guest suites and fun karaoke rooms, the property from renowned Joie de Vivre Hotels will highlight two original dining concepts with a bar program helmed by local industry veteran Chelsea Gregoire. The first restaurant—a lobby-level cafe and market called Square Meal—will feature breakfast, lunch, and dinner dishes and local Ceremony Coffee. The hotel will also boast a rooftop restaurant and bar called Topside, highlighting a menu of seafood-centric dishes and killer views of the Washington Monument. Both eateries will be led by local chef Wilbur Cox. Stay tuned for more details about the hotel, which is expected to make its debut this spring. 101 W. Monument St.

NEWS

Fork & Wrench: After six years in business, this Canton hangout from co-owners Andy Gruver and Jason Sanchez is up for sale. The partners say that they are grateful for all of the community’s support throughout the restaurant’s run, and have decided to focus their efforts on their second spot Modern Cook Shop in Fells Point. “As all journeys lead to a final destination, we are committed to continuing ours, both personal and public,” the co-owners said in a statement. “In an ever-morphing world, it takes change and effort to stay inspired, as well as inspire, and to that end, we move forward.” The sophisticated dive bar, best known for its New American fare and collection of vintage fixtures and tools, will remain open for dinner, drinks, and Sunday brunch throughout the turnover process. 2322 Boston St., 443-759-7360.

Regi’s Bistro: Across the harbor, this Federal Hill mainstay has also gone on the market. The neighborhood staple has been around since 1978, serving up classic comfort dishes like cheesy tots, crab cakes with mashed potatoes, and massive pork chops. The restaurant, which is currently listed for $600,000, will remain open until owner Alan Morstein finds a buyer. 1002 Light St., 443-961-6427

Restaurant Week Extended: Not surprisingly, more than 60 restaurants scattered throughout the city have vowed to extend their Baltimore Restaurant Week specials until Sunday, January 28. (Check out our roundup of suggestions if you need help narrowing down all of the choices.) The dining deal offers prix-fixe menus at price points of $12-20 for a two-course lunch, and $20-35 for a three-course dinner. Baltimore County Restaurant Week is also now underway, with nearly 60 eateries offering special menus until February 3.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

TO 2/11: Burnt Coat Pop-Up at R. House
Charm City chef Cai Lindeman has settled in the rotating pop-up stall at R. House for a three-week run, serving eats including locally sourced burgers, Old Bay French fries, and banana pudding with toasted meringue. Chow down on a classic Roseda Farms ground beef patty, or a sweet potato and black bean burger topped with avocado and pickled radish on a brioche bun sourced from Stone Mill Bakery. R. House, 301 W. 29th St.

1/26: BIG Time with Ann Costlow
This Friday, the local food and theater worlds collide as Baltimore Improv Group (BIG) continues its weekly BIG Time series with special guest Ann Costlow—who owns Sofi’s Crepes next door on North Charles Street. The evening will begin with an interview with Costlow, followed by a series of completely unprepared comedy sets inspired by the conversation. The Baltimore Improv Group Theatre, 1727 N. Charles St., $5, 8 p.m.

1/29: Alison Roman Book Signing Bird in Hand
Former Bon Appétit editor Alison Roman is stopping by Bird in Hand in Charles Village next week to chat with female makers Jinji Fraser of Pure Chocolate by Jinji in Belvedere Square, Sarah Conezio of Pennsylvania-based Keepwell Vinegar, and Bird in Hand’s own preservation and canning connoisseur Lauren Sandler of Spike Gjerde’s Foodshed restaurant group. The free event will feature books and beverages for purchase, along with snacks inspired by Roman’s new cookbook Dining In. Bird in Hand, 11 E. 33rd St., 6:30 p.m., Free, 410-814-0373.

SHUT

Dinosaur Bar-B-Que: Last week, this Syracuse-based barbecue chain on Fleet Street shuttered its doors suddenly after only two years in business. Though the restaurant’s run was short-lived, it was known as a spot to enjoy a smoked brisket or pulled pork platter while catching a game in Harbor East. “We would like to thank everyone who has joined us at Dinosaur Bar-B-Que in Baltimore over the past few years,” spokesperson Jason Ryan said in a statement. “Although we are sad to announce we will be closing, we are grateful to the Baltimore community for welcoming us.” No word yet on what will become of the building. 1401 Fleet St.

The Life of Reilly: There’s no doubt that St. Patrick’s Day in Charm City is going to feel different this year. On the heels of the closure of Ryan’s Daughter Irish Pub in Belvedere Square, this Guinness and Jameson destination in Butchers Hill is also closing its doors. Owners Crosby and Julie Healy took to Facebook to announce the closure. “It is with a heavy heart that we inform our friends and patrons that after 11 years The Life of Reilly is closing its doors,” the post reads. The owners go on to cite a heartfelt passage from author J.R. Moehringer’s The Tender Bar. The pub was a neighborhood go-to for warm stews, strong Irish coffees, and community trivia nights. 2031 E. Fairmount Ave., 410-327-6425.

In the wake of the devastation caused by Hurricanes Harvey and Irma—which recently caused catastrophic flooding in Southeast Texas and the Florida Keys, respectively—the local food community has been doing its part to pitch in with various fundraisers and donation drives.

“We wanted to do whatever we could on whatever scale big or small,” says Jesse Sandlin, executive chef at The Outpost American Tavern in Federal Hill, which hosted a disaster relief brunch last weekend. “After Harvey, and with Irma coming through, it really hit me that this could be a major national disaster—potentially even bigger than Katrina because of the two hurricanes happening back to back.”

Sandlin is one of many local chefs who will be coming together at Fork & Wrench in Canton to participate in a monthly dinner series supporting the cause. At each event, new Fork & Wrench chef Corey Laub will battle it out with two other area chefs and a portion of all ticket sales will go to hurricane victims.

Columbia-born Laub—who only recently returned to the local dining scene after spending nearly a decade working in other cities like Chicago and Washington, D.C.—says that he, like Sandlin, had a willingness to help others in need.

“In this industry, we have a want to help people and make them happy however we can,” he says. “It all goes along with our hospitality drive.”

The inaugural competition on September 27 will pit Laub, Sandlin, and Chef Brian Lavin of Gnocco against each other. Each installment of the series will feature four courses (one from each of the chefs, followed by dessert), and diners will vote for their favorite dish after the final course. Proceeds will benefit the Austin Disaster Relief Network for the first dinner, and future installments will support victims in Florida.

Another unique element of the series is that each dinner will focus on a different local protein, with the first highlighting pork from Catoctin Mountain Farms in Frederick County. Although he is still perfecting his dish, Laub is eager to make use of the local hogs, as well as feature fall produce like squash and apples from area farms.

The monthly events continue with a battle showcasing beef on Wednesday, October 25, in which chef Corey will be up against chef Jason Ambrose of Salt Tavern in Upper Fells Point, and chef Andrew Weinzirl of The Brewer’s Art in Mt. Vernon. Rounding out the series will be a Thanksgiving-themed turkey competition between Laub, chef Jay Rohlfing of Cunningham’s in Towson, and chef David Thomas of Ida B’s Table—which officially opens downtown next week.

A former Top Chef contestant, Sandlin is certainly no stranger to the realm of chef competitions. But she says that, in this instance, she is most excited to be cooking amongst her peers.

“Even though it is a competition, we’re all friends,” she says. “We all want to encourage each other. We all have a lot of mutual admiration and respect for each other. When you don’t get to collaborate with other chefs on a day-to-day basis, it makes it fun.”