In the beginning (okay, summer 2008), a bar opened along Harford Road with homespun décor, a total smokeshow of a burger, and a killer selection of local craft beer. Its name was Hamilton Tavern, and it was good.

So good, in fact, that it was almost instantly lavished with laurels from this and many other publications: “Best Bar,” “Best Burger,” even “Best Bathroom” for its restrooms wallpapered with pages from literary classics. It was also—though we could hardly have known it at the time—very 2008.

In the summer of 2008, the economy was tanking and the conspicuous consumption of the early aughts was becoming passé. Coupled with the already underway farm-to-table boom, the recession birthed a generation of eateries that showcased a deliberately rustic aesthetic and a menu full of hearty classics served in skillets and Mason jars, a trend that romanticized Depression-era poverty for today’s audience. With antique farm tools adorning the walls, dark wood accents, and a menu full of pub grub, Hamilton Tavern neatly fit this bill, though, to its credit, it never seemed as contrived as some of its brethren.

But time marches on, the economy recovered (right?), and trends evolved. Perhaps more importantly, Hamilton Tavern’s original owners sold the business in 2016 to neighborhood resident Joel Ramos. So what is Hamilton Tavern, version 2019 like?

Pretty much the same, and that is mostly a good thing. The sign above the bar telling patrons not to discuss religion or politics is still there, and perhaps more needed than ever. Brewer’s Art’s Resurrection Ale is still on tap, and the menu still plays to the hits: Natty Boh-battered onion rings full of crunch and bigger than most dog collars; the Crosstown burger, a towering mass of Roseda Farm beef, melted cheddar, and “sticky-spicy” bacon; and crisp, hand-cut potato chips.

But there are subtle signs of change, too, most evident in the chef’s daily specials, which display an inventiveness and finesse that can approach fine dining.

On a recent visit, my dining companion and I split the difference between the classic and the contemporary with my friend ordering the burger, while I opted for the “Fishy Friday” special of pan-seared scallops with polenta gnocchi in a creamy broth studded with local corn and tomatoes, plus house-made chorizo. A mini patty pan squash, hollowed out and stuffed with scallop mousse, provided additional accompaniment.

The burger was its usual stellar self and arrived medium-rare—as ordered—an overabundance of salt in the patty its only flaw. The special, meanwhile, was a revelation, bursting with late-summer flavors and rich textures.

An appetizer special, a late summer plate of fried green tomatoes, encrusted with Utz potato chips and accompanied by corn, crab meat, and a drizzle of spicy chipotle mayo, was similarly decadent.

Executive chef Jeremy Price—a veteran of the late, great Clementine—gets credit for these creations, as he does for adding handmade pasta to the specials rotation and thoughtfully expanding the menu to include the occasional non-Western comfort food dish (a banh mi here, a ramen dish there). These touches help Hamilton Tavern feel relevant and fresh after more than a decade.

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HAMILTON TAVERN 5517 Harford Rd., 410-426-1930. HOURS: Sun. 4:30-9 p.m., Mon.-Wed. 4:30-10 p.m., Thurs.-Sat. 4:30-11 p.m., Saturday lunch 11:30 a.m.-3 p.m., Sunday brunch 10:30 a.m.-3 p.m. PRICES: Appetizers: $6-12; entrees: $7-24.

French fries might be the most popular complement to a hearty burger or sandwich, but there’s something to be said for a quality order of crispy kettle chips. (Though we do also love a good bag of Utz from time to time.) Some of the area’s most addictive sliced spuds can be found at Todd Conner’s in Fells Point, where longtime cook Eric Mason fries up hundreds per day.

“Surprisingly, we get a lot of people who ask for chips as a side as opposed to French fries,” says Mason, who has been manning the kitchen for the past decade. “Actually, we have quite a few regular customers who come in to order them with their lunch and then take some with them to go. And we even have some who come in and say they just want chips.”

The process, says Mason, involves thinly slicing the crisps and deep-frying them in 350-degree oil. He cooks them until they’re golden brown, drains the excess grease, and then coats both sides in a powdered ranch seasoning to give them their signature flavor.

“People really like that we serve them warm,” he says. “But other than that, there’s really no secret ingredient. We just like to put a little extra love into them, of course.”

Aside from Todd Conner’s, there are plenty of other pubs whose house-made chips are sure to satisfy snack cravings. Here are our picks:

Abbey Burger Bistro: Though it seems like the side options are endless (think waffle fries, fried pickles, sweet potato fries, and tots), you can’t go wrong pairing one of Abbey’s massive burgers with a side of golden-brown crisps. If the salty snacks leave you with a sweet tooth craving, order one of the famed Berger Cookie shakes for dessert. Multiple locations including 1041 Marshall St., 443-453-9698

Delia Foley’s: The baskets lined with green-and-white checkered paper at this Irish staple in South Baltimore come overflowing with house-cooked kettle chips. The crisps are fried until golden brown and tossed in a signature Texas dry rub seasoning (cayenne, chili powder, onion, garlic, and salt), and served alongside all of the pub’s sandwiches, wraps, and grilled cheeses. 1439 S. Charles St., 443-682-9141.

Mt. Washington Tavern: You can’t go wrong with a crab cake or shrimp salad sandwich paired with an order of fried lattice chips at this Mt. Washington haunt, which has become a go-to for dinners with friends and cocktails in the upstairs Skybar. 5700 Newbury St., 410-367-6903

Nick’s Fish House: There’s nothing quite like a crab cake, shrimp salad, or pit beef sandwich on the patio at this waterfront dining destination in South Baltimore. But to make the meal even better, Nick’s serves all of its sandwiches with a side of crispy, house-made chips. Throw on your sunglasses and treat yourself to the perfect pairing—and be sure to order an Orange Crush for good measure.

The Velvet Chocolatier: Okay, okay. Chocolate-covered potato chips might not sound like the most conventional combo. But hear us out: The unique confections made at Ruthie Carliner’s Pikesville shop are a perfect combination of salty and sweet. A 6-oz. box of dark chocolate-dipped waffle potato chips goes for $25 and can be purchased online.

RegionAle: This Canton sandwich spot—which also operates its flagship in Ellicott City—tosses its house-fried crisps with signature salt and pepper, salt and vinegar, and Old Bay seasonings. They also fry up sweet potato chips, if that’s your preference. Stop in today to pair your hearty sandwich—think: everything from a toasty Cubano to Buffalo cauliflower on a roll—with a $1 order of chips in honor of National Potato Chip Day.

Here’s something we’ve noticed: Even the best restaurants sometimes fall apart in the restroom décor department. And maybe it’s just our pet peeve, but when nature calls, there’s nothing worse than a blah bathroom with industrial-scented soap, an empty paper-towel dispenser, and a can of Mediterranean Lavender Febreze for freshening.

But lately, we’ve spotted a trend toward bathrooms with serious style points (not to mention great reading material).

Ekiben

The manga artwork in the lovely loos at this steamed-bun boîte offers a personal connection for co-owners Steve Chu, Nick Yesupriya, and Ephrem Abebe. “All the manga in the bathrooms is manga we actually read—Dragon Ball Z, Naruto,” explains Chu. “The whole restaurant is nostalgia for us. Everything means something—it’s not just thrown together because it looks nice.” It also helps contribute to the authentic ambience. “We wanted to give it an Asian feel,” says Chu. “We wanted the guests to come in and feel like they stepped into a small shop in Taiwan or Tokyo.” 1622 Eastern Ave., 410-558-1914

Woodberry Kitchen

Looking for a great recipe for creamy polenta with grilled vegetables, or perhaps a foolproof guide to making hollandaise? Next time you gotta go, check out the restrooms at Woodberry Kitchen, which are papered with the pages of Gourmet magazine. Though the magazine is no longer in rotation, it lives on at the lavatory. “My mom, Alice, subscribed to Gourmet for years,” says co-owner Gjerde. “And that was the source of her culinary inspiration. Those are all of her Gourmet magazines in our bathrooms. She had them bundled up in the basement for years. I was like, ‘I’ll take them.’” 2010 Clipper Park Road, 410-464-8000

Hamilton Tavern

This Hamilton haunt offers patrons not only one of the best burgers in town, but also a great chance to catch up on the classics. Co-owner Felicia Shakman has papered the W.C.’s walls with writings from literary greats, including Jane Austen, Edna St. Vincent Millay, and Mary Shelley for the ladies, and Jack Kerouac and Aldous Huxley for the gents. “Some of them are my old books and a lot of them came from The Book Thing,” explains Shakman. “We wanted this place to be special and fun, and give people food for their bodies—and souls—so they feel nourished in every way.” 5517 Harford Road, 410-426-1930

Smoke

The bathroom “wallpaper” at this barbecue joint is fashioned from the pages of Hit Parade and Circus magazines. After months of clipping interviews with Bon Jovi, the Beastie Boys, Iron Maiden, Alice Cooper, and others, co-owner/manager Keith Thompson, a lifelong musician, turned the pages into a Mod Podge project. “I saw all those ’80s bands at a young age, which fueled my fire to play music,” says Thompson. “[Co-owner] Josh White and I met over music, and I wanted to bring some musical flair to Smoke.” 574 Cranbrook Road, Cockeysville, 410-891-8515

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Honorable Mention

While there’s no literary theme here, we’d be remiss if we overlooked the prettiness of the powder rooms at fine-dining mecca Magdalena. The walls are layered in Venetian plaster, the floors are made of limestone cement, and the ceiling, which was eight months in the making, was created by a Moroccan artist who made colorful wood carvings. 205 E. Biddle St., 410-514-0303