Editor’s Note: This review was published in our April issue pre-quarantine, but Goldberg’s remains open for curbside pickup, catering, and delivery until stay-at-home orders are lifted.

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On any given Sunday morning at Goldberg’s New York Bagels in Pikesville, you will see the trademark of a great bagel shop: The line.

At peak breakfast time, a baker’s dozen or more customers stand single file, just inside the store’s busy front door, waiting to place their order at a sturdy counter. Six everythings is my typical order.

“Two cinnamon raisins, two black Russians, and a small cream cheese, too,” the woman to my left says. We both shimmy down the line toward the cashier. The pace is hurried, so you better know what you want when it’s your turn, or risk getting the stink-eye from a rightfully impatient worker who wants to keep things moving.

He holds an open brown paper bag that’s asking be filled with what most everyone is here for: Bagels—boiled, baked O-shaped dough, firm on the outside, soft and chewy inside, and authentically New York in style, ready to be sliced and dressed to your liking.

I’ve lived in Baltimore for a decade, but as a native of Long Island—where bagels are in the blood—I feel qualified to judge. We won’t go as far as Goldberg’s straight-shooting, and sometimes brusque, owner Stanley Drebin, 65—an Orthodox Jew and certified public accountant who started the shop 22 years ago—when he proclaims, “My bagels are the best in the world.” But only because we haven’t tried all the others.

Even a guy from New York, where bagels first arrived in America with Jewish immigrants who came to the Big Apple in the late 19th century, will keep coming back to Reisterstown Road for the real thing.

It takes about 20 minutes for baker Robert Bagwandeen, from Jamaica (and not the one in New York), to make a round of bagels. The dough, shipped frozen from New Jersey, is laid out to rise. The baby bagels are then dropped in boiling water for one minute, then baked for another minute on a burlap-lined bagel board in the oven. Finally, they’re flipped to cook on the oven floor for 18 minutes more, until the right blend of crunch and chew is reached.

On first bite, you might notice a Goldberg’s bagel is particularly dense on the inside, maybe too much for some tastes. We don’t mind, and clearly we’re not alone. Drebin says he sells 1.5 million bagels in retail per year, even after a wild controversy—and a drop in business—a few years ago that included protests outside the store when it was revealed that Drebin, and at least one of his employees, supported Donald Trump.

Politics aside, we come for the food. And there are rich, hot soups (lentil is a good one), wraps, omelets, and whatever Kosher dish you could imagine. And any item is available anytime the store is open.

Just don’t expect to walk in during Shabbat—sundown Friday to sundown Saturday— and the Jewish high holidays. Goldberg’s is closed then, but in a beautiful acknowledgement of its customer base, it’s open from sundown to 1 a.m. on Saturdays. And the bagels, we can say, are just as good when it’s dark out.

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GOLDBERG’S NEW YORK BAGELS 1500 Reisterstown Rd., Pikesville, 410-415-7001. Hours: Sun. 6 a.m.-4 p.m., Mon.-Thurs. 6 a.m.-3 p.m., Fri. 6 a.m.- 2 p.m., Sat. night (after sundown) until 1 a.m.

OPEN

The Reister’s Daughter: The 200 block of Main Street in Reisterstown has long been a destination for frozen custard and Italian ice at The Cow. And now, there’s even more to love in the area with the opening of this new coffee shop just across the street. Set in the historic Beckley House property that formerly operated as The Ski Shoppe, the cozy spot offers grinds sourced from Gracefully Coffee Roasters in Windsor Mill. Look out for nitro and cold brew on tap, espresso, and specialty drinks like matcha lattes and a soothing London Fog. The pastry program is also sourced locally, featuring sweets from Diablo Donuts in Federal Hill and JeannieBird Baking Company in Westminster.

Dutch Courage: Veteran bartenders Brendan Dorr and Eric Fooy have started 2020 off right with the opening of their highly anticipated gin bar in Old Goucher. Filled with vintage interior touches—try to spot treasures like the silver cash register or red velvet sofa—the bar offers a menu of innovative gin drinks alongside a seasonal list of cocktails showcasing other spirits. To get the full experience, enjoy gin-forward options including the “Jefferson Sour” (sage-infused gin with lemon and honey) and the “Lady Mercy,” which mixes genever with mezcal and orange bitters. Pair all of the libations with bites from the food menu, which lists charcuterie, deviled eggs, pickled veggies, and warm sandwiches.

COMING SOON

Rita’s at The Rotunda: The first day of spring is still a couple months away, but when March 19 crops up, so will this new kiosk at The Rotunda in Hampden. Stationed just off of the family-friendly playspace in the center of the retail-and-residential district, the dessert chain will offer its wide range of Italian ice flavors (everything from mango and cherry to blue raspberry and Swedish Fish) and swirls of frozen custard.

NEWS

The Phoenix Emporium: As we reported back in 2018, this neighborhood staple on Main Street in Ellicott City is among the 10 properties slated for demolition in accordance with Howard County’s “Safe and Sound” flood mitigation plan developed by County Executive Calvin Ball. The Phoenix Emporium owner Mark Hemmis recently took to Facebook to confirm that he has entered into an agreement with the county to sell his interest in the property effective April 1. Though this means The Phoenix will close at the end of March, there is a silver lining to Hemmis’ plan. As chef/owner Richard Winter of Ellicott Mills Brewing Company (located just up the street from The Phoenix) prepares to retire, Hemmis plans to purchase the brewpub—where he once worked and met his wife more than 20 years ago.

Hemmis, along with the existing management team at Ellicott Mills, are working together to merge the spirits of the two establishments under one roof. “Ellicott Mills Brewing Company will operate as normal as we figure out our next steps together,” he wrote. “The floods of 2016 and 2018 have taken a financial, physical, and emotional toll on my family, our staff, and all of our families, friends, and community that we continue to process to this every day. But we do not stop. We are eternally grateful for the support of our community and are overjoyed with the opportunity to remain a part of Ellicott City’s resurgence.”

SHUT

Edmart Deli: Baltimore lost yet another one of its Jewish deli institutions earlier this week. Edmart, which has been a go-to for classics like chopped liver, corned beef, and hand-sliced lox since 1958, closed its doors in Pikesville on New Year’s Eve. Owner Shelley Lev Wiseman, who inherited the business from her father, made the decision to shutter the store in an effort to spend more time with family. “I haven’t seen my grandchildren,” she told The Sun. “And they just grow up so fast.” Regulars have long frequented Edmart for its holiday trays, desserts, and array of deli meats. (Duff Goldman even gave the brisket a shout-out on an episode of Food Network’s “The Best Thing I Ever Ate.”) Though Wiseman has expressed interest in selling Edmart, the future of the deli is still up in the air.

Vaccaro’s Italian Pastry Shop Bel Air: Sadly, New Year’s Eve was the last day for Bel Air locals to grab a cannoli at Vaccaro’s in Harford Mall. According to a message posted to the shop’s Facebook page last week, the decision was made quickly. “We did not want to close, however we cannot afford to keep the location running and the mall has signed a new lease for our space,” the Vaccaro family wrote. “We are very sad to close this chapter. Thank you to all of our loyal customers.” Luckily, the beloved sweet shop’s other locations in Little Italy, Canton, and Hunt Valley remain open with plenty of almond macaroons, gelato, and pignoli cookies to go around.

At the newly opened AJ’s Deli inside Mount Vernon Marketplace, purists will recognize the classic fried bologna hot dogs and pastrami sandwiches. But the modern-industrial looking stall, which highlights eight bar seats equipped with charging stations for phones and laptops, also offers beer and wine, a potato-latke eggs benedict, and sandwiches filled with “tuna-cado” salad—a healthier version of traditional tuna mixed with avocado as a binding substitute.

“Mayonnaise-heavy deli sandwiches are of a bygone era,” says AJ’s owner Alan Morstein, whose concept mirrors a deli he formerly operated in Ocean City more than 35 years ago, but with an updated twist. “It’s all part of this new wave of delis.”

The vibe at AJ’s is indicative of a larger trend across the country. As old-school Jewish delis continue to shutter their doors, new ones are modernizing their menus in order to change with the times. At the weeks-old Call Your Mother Deli in Washington, D.C., an Instagrammable wall mural greets diners looking to sample dishes like whitefish croquettes and a bagel schmeared with candied salmon cream cheese, crispy shallots, and micro radishes.

“There’s a whole different style now,” Morstein says. “It’s not like what my parents used to take me to, and it’s not like what I used to take my kids to. It’s where my kids are taking me now.”

Diners across the country began to take a hard look at what the future held for old-school sandwich shops two years ago, after the iconic Carnegie Deli in New York City sliced its final corned beef-on-rye. Since then, owners have repeatedly cited retirement and the rising costs of quality meats and ingredients as part of the reason for the dwindling number of delis.

“I don’t think we’re going to see any more real, full-service delis open very often, if ever again,” says Alan Smith, owner of Lenny’s Delicatessen in Owings Mills, which also has a spinoff inside Horseshoe Casino. “It costs a lot of money to do it, and you need a lot of help.”

Baltimoreans started to feel the void in the spring of 2017, when Lenny’s closed its 26-year-old Lombard Street location on Baltimore’s famed “Corned Beef Row”—a once-bustling food district that now houses its last remaining delis, Attman’s and Weiss.

When Smith was approached by the nearby Helping Up Mission about taking over the space last year, he decided that it was the right time to close the Lombard Street staple and focus his energy on his other two locations. Soon after, Suburban House shuttered in Pikesville, and, just last month, Mueller’s Deli closed in Northeast Baltimore.

“I don’t think delis are closing down because of lack of business, I think it’s because people don’t want to get into the business anymore,” says Neil Parish, who opened The Essen Room in Pikesville last fall. “Back in the olden days, it was much easier to get product and to get help to make the product. Finding help is next to impossible now. People are using pre-cut nova because they can’t find anyone to slice it.”

In a time when many new deli owners are updating their dishes, Parish decided to go back to basics with a menu highlighting old-world items like kugel, knishes, and kreplach. Though he says he is constantly given feedback about his prices, he sticks to the philosophy that quality “always wins out.”

In fact, many of the remaining family-owned eateries are committed to upholding the time-honored traditions established by delis of yesteryear. Smith, for example, says that the menu in Owings Mills hasn’t changed since Lenny’s first opened its doors in 1985, and he doesn’t plan to modernize anything any time soon.

“It’s hard work, but I’m not tired of doing it,” Smith says. “We have no plans to go anywhere. It’s all I’ve ever done—I don’t know how to do anything else.”

And while the city may never return to the heyday of traditional delis operating around every corner, with a few standbys still going strong, a classic corned beef sandwich won’t ever be hard to come by.

“I don’t believe that the concept of a Jewish deli is dying,” Parish says. “Where other guys are going out, there are still some of us left who really want to spread the message.”