There was a time, right before he had that quintuple bypass surgery, that Dave Letterman had grown complacent. I’d always been a huge fan of his show, with its gleefully anarchic energy, but the spark was clearly gone; he was going through the motions. After he got back from that near death experience, however, he seemed to have a new lease on life—and a new appreciation for the blessings of his career. The show got good again.

That’s why the premise of Mindy Kaling’s Late Night is so plausible. It’s about Katherine Newbury (Emma Thompson), the female host of a late night talk show who is in a rut but doesn’t quite know it. She ends each show by saying that she’s “honored” her audience chose to watch her, but the truth is, she takes her audience for granted. What’s more, she’s a cold, remote, and altogether terrifying boss to her frattish crew of white male writers. After being accused of “hating women” by a writer she’s just fired (he had the temerity to ask for a raise), she demands that her showrunner (Dennis O’Hare) commandeer a woman for the writers’ room. Somehow, the completely inexperienced Molly (Kaling)—she works at a chemical plant where she cracks her coworkers up with chemistry puns—is the lucky recipient of this diversity hire.

Needless to say, Molly is regarded with skepticism and even disdain by her co-writers. And then, before she even has a chance to settle in, Katherine gets the bad news from the new network president: she’s going to be replaced at the end of the season with a lowbrow, sexist, Dane Cook-esque comedian. Katherine is stunned. She thought she was still on top of her game and that the show untouchable. Then her doting husband (John Lithgow) breaks the news that the show has been coasting for years.

Of course, you can imagine what happens next: Molly injects a new, youthful, and inclusive perspective into the show and encourages Katherine to be more “real” in her monologues. Katherine resists at first but eventually begins taking Molly’s advice, with some success. She also notes, with a grudging admiration, Molly’s extreme work ethic. At the same time, Katherine is a deeply unsentimental woman (she calls her writers by arbitrarily assigned numbers, not their actual names), so don’t expect a touchy-feely buddy comedy to break out quite yet.

As Katherine, Emma Thompson is wonderful: Imperious, imposing, fabulous, casually cruel—and yet somehow, we still root for her. This is the genius of Thompson’s performance—and Kaling’s script—she shows us just enough of Katherine’s humanity for us to care. We also know that the odds are stacked against Katherine—even in this fictional, fantasy universe, she’s the only female late night host in the game. Even Katherine’s haircut (a chic pompadour) and fabulous wardrobe (men’s-tailored suits in bright red, cream, and gold) reflect her ambivalence about her own gender. If Katherine is part of the paradox of successful women in their 50s, who often have to act more masculine to succeed, Molly is part of the new generation of “lean in” young women who embrace feminist politics.

Late Night is at its best when it focuses on the inner workings of late night TV. It does a great job of conveying the neurotic, competitive rhythms of the writers’ room, and the unique pressures of working for an exacting boss. And most of its jokes are funny—or at least credibly funny for a late night host—especially when Katherine hits the street and becomes a self-appointed “white savior,” hailing cabs for young black men (whether they want one or not).

Where the film falters is around the edges, as it attempts to shoehorn in not one, but two romantic subplots for Molly. At first, she hooks up with the staff’s resident lothario (Hugh Dancy), but eventually is drawn to head writer (Reid Scott), who initially resented Molly but ultimately comes to admire her. Honestly, neither of these relationships feels particularly fleshed out or necessary. At the very least, she should’ve focused on just one.

In general, Late Night could’ve dug deeper. It flirts with big ideas about women in the workplace and women in power, but doesn’t fully develop them. Even the relationship between Katherine and Molly could’ve been more substantial (it’s missing a signature scene like the famous cerulean blue monologue from The Devil Wears Prada). And Kaling can’t quite shake some of her old sitcom habits (Molly is fond of reciting self-help aphorisms to herself and pastes a cheesy “Never Give Up” poster next to her desk.)

Still, warts and all, Late Night is smart, snappy, and altogether winning entertainment. If Emma Thompson and Mindy Kaling form some kind of unlikely new comedy team, I’ll be first in line for their next film.

At Baltimore magazine, we take our late nights seriously. In fact, we devoted an entire cover story to after-hours activities a few years ago. But we wanted to dig into dimly lit dining options (and go beyond RoFo fried chicken) even further.

Whether you’re a regular nighttime nosher, a chronic insomniac, or just looking for a bite instead of a nightcap, these after-hours pubs, diners, and restaurants will surely satiate your closing time cravings.

Insomniac Snacks

Taco Noche: Get you late-night taco fix at this new Rotunda hotspot, featuring a menu full of Northern Mexican-style tacos and snacks. The stand is open until 3 a.m., and local favorites include the flour tortillas stuffed with smoked beef brisket, the pork carnitas, and the jerk chicken. 711 W 40th St., 410-727-5430

Maria D’s Sub Shop: Placate your midnight appetite with Maria D’s famous super sized sandwiches, open from 10 a.m.-2:30 a.m. The decadent meat lovers stromboli and Maria D’s cheesesteak, complete with fried onions, hot peppers, cabbage lettuce, and green peppers, are just two of this shops greasiest creations. 1016 Light St., 410-727-5430

Stuggy’s: This Fells Point favorite is the perfect spot to hit after a night of bar-hopping or a long Orioles game. The family-owned stand is known for their crab mac-and-cheese dog, piled high with homemade macaroni, crab, Old Bay seasoning, and a twist of lemon. The stand is open until 3 a.m. Thursday-Saturday. 809 S. Broadway, 410-327-0228

Hot Tomatoes: Open until 3 a.m., midnight munchers love to refuel with grab-and-go slices at this Fells Point joint. For a dish that’s sure to soak up some alcohol, split The Bad Mother Clucker—a white pizza topped with chicken, bacon, and a swirl of Ranch—with your inebriated gang. 717 S Broadway, 410-563-4453

The Bun Shop: If fried food isn’t your late night go-to, this Mt. Vernon cafe has tons of other options. Open until 3 a.m., this cafe serves up street style buns as well as Vietnamese coffee, empanadas, and an extensive pastry selection. 239 W Read St., 410-989-2033

Brick Oven Pizza: This after-hours pizza place is open until 3 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays. With creative slices like the decadent lucky 7 Pizza, topped with seven types of cheese, or the meat lovers pizza, covered with strips of beef, bacon, pepperoni, sausage, bacon, and salami, this isn’t your average nighttime nibble. 800 S. Broadway, 410-563-1600

Never on Sunday: This late-night eatery champions a menu with a dizzying array of decadent dishes. From Greek and Italian to classic diner options, you just might have trouble deciding. Try the Greek fries, loaded up with oregano, feta cheese, and tzatziki for the ultimate salty snack. 829 N Charles St., 410-727-7191

Drunk-Eat Diners

Towson Diner: Open since 1957, this family-owned restaurant is a Towson staple, offering classic renditions of American breakfast and lunch dishes. Try anything from late-night pancakes and omelettes to chicken parmigiana subs and fried onion rings. The best part? This diner is open 24/7, so there’s no need to worry about getting in before closing time. 718 York Rd., 410-321-0407

Broadway Diner: Featured on the Food Network’s Diners, Drive-Ins, & Dives, Guy Fieri endorsed this diner’s Hungarian goulash, potato crusted salmon, and shrimp creole as his must-order faves. And the diner’s neon, glowing sign, aqua colored booths, and juke boxes give off real retro vibes. Broadway Diner is open 24/7. 6501 Eastern Ave., 410-631-5666

Double T Diner: Full of old-school charm and with a menu stuffed with comfort food and homemade desserts, there’s no better place to end a night of debauchery than at Double T Diner. Open 24/7, this Catonsville classic serves breakfast all day as well as beloved diner dishes like char-grilled chicken sandwiches, hot pressed paninis, and 1/2-pound pure beef burgers. Various locations including 6300 Baltimore National Pike, 410.744.4151

Sip & Bite: Centrally located between Fells Point and Canton, this diner is open 24/7 and is regular gathering spot for post-party posses. Breakfast favorites, like the $6 french toast, are served all day, and you can’t go wrong with kitchen’s hearty gyro platters or the flaky spanakopita. And with famous customers like George Clooney and Michael Phelps, you never know who could run into. 2200 Boston St., 410-675-7077

Blue Moon Cafe: Check out this Baltimore favorite for cheap, delicious, breakfast food served with unpretentious charm. Get your moonlight munch on with the famous Captain Crunch french toast, the huevos rancheros, or the biscuits and gravy. The cafe is open 24/7 Friday-Sunday. 1621 Aliceanna St., 410-522-3940

Midnight Meals

Clavel: This family-run taqueria is the perfect pick for a late-night date night or night owl gathering. Open until 1 a.m. on Friday and Saturday, this Remington restaurant hosts a menu full of tacos, ceviches, as well as extensive mezcal offerings. 225 West 23rd St.,443-900-8983

Jong Kak: Open until 4 a.m. every night of the week, this Korean restaurant heats up after hours. Baltimoreans obsess over simmering bowls of bibimbap, platters of fried dumplings, and love to bring groups of friends to take part in the Korean tradition of cooking at the table. 18 W 20th St., 410-837-5231

Nam Kang: Whether you’re looking for a place to end a night of drinking or a spot to get your fill of comfort food after a long night at the office, this Korean barbecue hotspot is fun for everyone. Open until 4 a.m., customers love to chow down on bowls of octopus bibimbap and fish-roe jjigae, prepared in the kitchen instead of at your table. 101 West 22nd St., 410-685-6237

Loch Bar: Located in The Four Seasons Hotel, this seafood-centric restaurant features a 12-foot raw bar and is the classiest place to waste time in the wee hours. Open until 1 a.m. on Friday and Saturday, this 1920s-style space, with leather booths and marble surfaces, will transport you back in time. For a savory snack, try the oysters Rockefeller or the moules frites. 240 International Dr., 443-961-8949