Most nights of the week, through the leaf-green door at 1712 Aliceanna Street, Will Mester will be in the back corner, a white apron tied around his waist, drifting between the two induction cooktops of his ad-hoc kitchen, the smell of melting butter in the air, as he quietly cooks up a storm under the lamplight of The Wren.

It’s not exactly where you might expect to find him. Over the last 15 years, Mester has emerged as a star of the Baltimore food scene, his career evolving from culinary-school drop-out to cook at revered restaurants like Woodberry Kitchen to owner of the nationally lauded Le Comptoir du Vin in Station North—along the way mastering his own singular style: a simple yet sophisticated ode to European country cooking.

And yet despite his success, he’s grown increasingly estranged from the fast-paced, fad-crazed fuss of the hospitality industry, and it’s clear that here, in this dimly lit bar—chatting with patrons over pints of Guinness, grabbing fresh eggs from the wicker basket for the day’s omelet, handing plates over the pass to his wife, Millie Powell, a seasoned maître d’ who runs the front-of-house—he is, by all measures, in his element.

“It was the right place at the right time,” says Mester on a Monday off at the end of March, after a weekend of whipping up homemade terrine, smoked haddock, and a nettle soup for early spring.

And that right time was the weekend after Thanksgiving in 2023, when veteran bartender Adam Estes introduced him to this rowhome building, back when it was still the hole-in-the-wall Scotch bar, Birds of a Feather, known for strong pours and an eclectic crowd over its 40-odd years. The owner was ready to sell and, by the following spring, Mester bought the place with Powell and Comptoir co-owner Rosemary Liss, who assists with business operations at The Wren.

For them, it was a no-brainer—this circa-1890 stalwart being one of the last of old Fells Point, as longtime spaces have been gutted for modern tastes, like The Wharf Rat, or outright closed, like Bertha’s Mussels.

Here, details from the past remain, like the tin ceiling, oak bar, terracotta tiles, and back-lounge fireplace, alongside fresh coats of paint, a new draft beer system, and a shiny backsplash behind Mester’s prep station.

The Wren is warm, intimate, and in many ways, out of time—no QR codes, no Spotify soundtracks, no reservations or even table service—which is what makes it so transportive. The night slows. The record player crackles. With a Rob Roy in hand on one of the 20 wooden barstools, just two blocks from the Baltimore harbor, you could very well be in a pub off the English Channel or, more specifically, the Irish Sea.

TWO BLOCKS FROM THE BALTIMORE HARBOR, YOU COULD VERY WELL BE IN A PUB OFF THE IRISH SEA.

Powell is a Dublin native, who met Mester there through Liss one summer, on an open-water swim no less. Undoubtedly their partnership, and years of travel for Mester, informed the strong desire to open a pub—the kind of place in Ireland that serves not just as a drinking den but also a vital third space outside of work and home for the local community.

“They are one of the only public spaces left where anything deep or interesting happens,” says Mester. “You need a place that’s democratic, that everyone can go to, that everyone can afford to go to, with some degree of frequency, where people aren’t going to hold your hand and walk you through what the concept is. You go just for a very basic need, to connect with people.”

And it might sound sacrilege, but food isn’t even necessary, he adds. That said, if you visit, we highly recommend having something to eat.

Despite the humble approach, Mester is a meticulous chef, imbuing intention into every detail and ingredient. On the eve of April, a thick slice of black pudding (aka blood sausage, imported from Ireland) came out extra crispy with a sage-fried egg and smokey-sweet “brown sauce,” made of winter fruit and warming spices—imagine the best scrapple you’ve ever had.

Tender pork cheeks also swam in a nourishing broth with bright turnips, sweet sauteed chard, and salty slivers of bacon. And a savory pot of lentils was saddled with sausage from Ostrowski’s, just up Ann Street. Even the basics are blissful, like a gorgeous green salad, swirled in Dijon vinaigrette with a dash of nutmeg, and the Ovenbird Bakery bread, which arrives with an almost indecent slather of Kerrygold butter and a proper pinch of flake salt.

Tuesday through Saturday, the chalkboard menu features a dozen daily dishes, all rooted in the rustic and resourceful pantry of pastoral Europe, inspired by seasons and history.

“It’s what we like to eat,” says Powell, which she calls “good, honest, comforting, classic” food, and that includes her homemade desserts, like apple cakes with vanilla custard and baked-to-order madeleines, each tinged with a touch of nostalgia. “So much of cooking back home, it’s almost like folk tradition—in that things are passed down.”

Much like this pub, which keeps the candle burning for its ever-changing neighborhood. Old regulars return, while newcomers amble in, perhaps to hear an Orioles game on the radio, or catch a set of traditional Irish music, or try a hand at the weekly dart league, or shoot the breeze with Estes, who now runs the bar, its inventory stocked with leftover Scotch from Birds of a Feather.

If you look closely, a tiny taxidermied creature keeps watch behind him. The Wren was named in part after a Celtic tradition,  based on the ancient myth that this unsung but savvy songbird once outsmarted the eagle to be crowned the king of all fowl.

On Aliceanna, this old-soul watering hole proves that small can mean mighty, too.

THE WREN: 1712 Aliceanna St. HOURS: Tues.-Sat. 3 p.m.-10:30 p.m.; dinner starting at 5:30 p.m. PRICES: Appetizers, $5-18; entrees, $20 38; desserts, $14-20. AMBIANCE: Classic pub.

If the pandemic has taught us anything, it’s that you can take it with you.

When you just don’t feel comfortable eating inside a restaurant, getting food to go is no longer a matter of last resort. While plenty of joints have long run a brisk carryout and delivery business, other restaurants have gotten into the game as a way of broadening their business models.

When Le Comptoir du Vin pivoted to becoming a European-style pantry featuring grab-and-go items, they did it as a matter of survival. “When we saw the pandemic wasn’t going away, we restructured,” says Rosemary Liss, who co-owns the Station North restaurant with her partner Will Mester. “That has carried us through this whole time.”

Now, as the restaurant re-opens for regular dinner service, the marketplace is still open for business. “This is here to stay,” says Liss.

Carrying-out is the new dining-in. Here are the “It” items from other area spots:

Dylan’s Oyster Cellar

It’s an “R” month (not that it really matters anymore, thanks to oyster farming), which means it’s the peak time to slurp oysters to-go. From Duxbury to Wellfleets, this Hampden haunt serves some of the best bivalves in Baltimore.

Limoncello

The “Gnocchi Al Telefono” bathed in tomato ragù and topped with smoked mozzarella is as good to-go as when you eat in at this Locust Point restaurant.

Linwoods

This Owings Mills institution has consistently provided some of the best to-go fine-dining fare since the start of the pandemic. The broiled crab cake with a side of slaw is a menu highlight.

Tapas Teatro

Don’t make us pick just one! Well, that’s the whole point at this Station North staple. Settle on a few classics, like spicy chicken and cheese croquettes, grilled octopus in Romesco sauce, salmon slicked with molasses, then follow up with flan.

From the get-go—when it opened in late 2018—Baltimoreans have known that the tiny Le Comptoir du Vin in Station North, with its homey French classics and some 34 seats, was something special. But last year, when Bon Appetit named the boîte one of the Best New Restaurants in America (followed by a shout-out in Esquire as the “sexiest third-date spot in America”), co-owner couple Rosemary Liss and Will Mester found themselves in the center of a feeding frenzy, and scoring a table became something of a sport.

Now, with their normal operations shut down, the pandemic has given the duo a chance to regroup, reflect, and even open an online bottle shop featuring their natural wines. Plus, they’re offering a rotating menu of items including their signature lentils and silken pâté for carryout.

“What’s happening now is terrible,” says Mester, “and we want to get back to real life, but this feels like a sabbatical.” Adds Liss: “It has been wild for sure. We are feeling lucky because we had that year—it gives us support now. It has also given us a chance to catch our breath, so there is a silver lining.”

How did you come up with your new business model of running an online bottle shop?
Rosemary Liss: Waking up every morning in panic mode, you have to try to utilize that energy into something. We were starting to see restaurants, especially in New York, doing carryout models specifically with wine, so setting up a bottle shop online was our first step. We weren’t sure we were comfortable selling food at the time.

What did it take to set up the site?
RL: I spent the first three days learning how to use the Squarespace e-commerce platform, cataloging and photographing all of our wine, and putting our inventory online—that saved us. It gave us a chance to take a second and step back to reflect, but also keep paying our bills. Because we’d been so busy, we ordered a ton of wine. We were were sitting on 1,000 bottles at one point, so I was like, ‘Let’s just keep it moving,’ and people were excited to stock up for the impending quarantine and also support us.

I spent the first three days learning how to use the Squarespace e-commerce platform, cataloging and photographing all of our wine, and putting our inventory online—that saved us. —Rosemary Liss

What about menu items?
RL: We have added food, but we’re keeping it really minimal for safety. Our menu is so small based on our space, so we rotate through things.

Will Mester: We make a stew every week that tends to revolve around what heirloom beans I can get, which are really hard to come by right now. Basically, I go to various groceries, raid their shelves, and then use a seasonal ingredient or two. On a whim, I put pozole on the menu, which is completely uncharacteristic of something that would be on our menu food-wise, but it’s a time to just experiment a little bit and not be so on brand. I really do cook with what I want to cook. The restaurant is just a reflection of our personalities and we are not trying to be so rigid. In this context, it comes naturally to just do things that we don’t typically do.

RL: We also have to think about what we can package that will be enjoyable for people to eat in their own home and reheat so it feels fresh and delicious when they sit down to eat it. Originally, we were trying to work with what we had in stock and trying not to spend anything, if possible.

How are things working for you revenue-wise?
RL: In April, we had a little bit of a loss because we were paying off vendors from more robust times, but it was very minimal. Luckily, we had a little bit of support savings. I’m hoping now, because we’ve been really steady, that we can stay even. I feel like the fear of waking up every morning and being like, ‘Are we going to survive this?’ has passed. I try to channel it into these projects. But then there’s always the fear that people are going to stop spending money. Things are going well, and we have consistent business, but will that last?

There’s always the fear that people are going to stop spending money. Things are going well, and we have consistent business, but will that last? —Rosemary Liss

I know you were booked for months prior to the pandemic and heard through the grapevine that you wrote a personal note to patrons whose reservations had to be canceled.
RL: Resy has been phenomenal through all of this and they waived all fees through next December. They cancelled everything for us, but I wanted to send a personal note, so I was able to pull that entire list of people who had reservations through the following month and email everyone to say they will be the first to know when we reopen. When we reopen the books, they get first dibs. It was 300 people. It was for 30 days of reservations starting March 16, which is when we had to close.

That’s such a lovely gesture.
RL: I think its really important right now. We are all struggling. I want people to know that we are still thinking about everyone we care about. From the start, something that was important to us was creating a space that was really convivial and we were there all the time interacting with customers. For those of us in the restaurant world, that’s the most important thing—making it feel like home.

WM: It’s important to have some kind of connection with your guests.

Have you thought about what it might look like when you reopen? Le Comptoir is tiny…how will social distancing work in such a small space?
RL: They were saying that restaurants might open at 25 percent capacity. If we open at 25 percent, there would be like five people in there—it’s not worth it for us to run a restaurant. We can do more carryout than have people dine with us. We’ve played around with some ideas and have to see how things have unfolded in other states. We’re starting to pay attention to see what works and what doesn’t. We are taking it slowly, day by day, re-evaluating things constantly, and not making any rash decisions right now.

Food on some level can only be so interesting, but when you put it in the context of sitting in the restaurant and having that experience, it’s special. —Will Mester

What’s it like to be in the space without the hustle and bustle of the dining room?
WM: In many ways, it’s not all that different from just a typical prep day. For me, it feels just like you’re preparing for a private event.

RL: I have been enjoying the aspect of it feeling like you’re running a little shop, photographing everything, setting everything up, getting the orders together. In some ways, there’s less stress not preparing for a really busy dinner.

Will you have carryout when you reopen?
WM: Carryout is not really our M.O.

RL: It’s just a necessity right now, but it doesn’t ever fully replicate the experience of sitting down in the restaurant and enjoying the food Will makes.

WM: Food on some level can only be so interesting, but when you put it in the context of sitting in the restaurant and having that experience, it’s special.

From the start, something that was important to us was creating a space that was really convivial and we were there all the time interacting with customers. For those of us in the restaurant world, that’s the most important thing—making it feel like home. —Rosemary Liss

What are doing with your free time?
RL: For the first time since we opened the restaurant, we are sitting down to dinner.

WM: The first week was almost surreal to have the kind of energy to really cook well at home. We do a lot of cooking at home, but our free time is so limited, we don’t want to spend hours in the kitchen at home. The first week or two that we were here, we were just making good food and sitting down at the dining room table. It was really weird—now it feels normal. I’ve been really getting into baking, making pizza, and food projects that would be daunting or just seem like I wouldn’t have the time for otherwise—that has been incredible.

What kinds of things have you made?
WM: I got this really nice steak from John Brown—a strip steak with some really garlicky rosemary potatoes and some speck at the very end to season the steak with. It was one of the less complicated meals to put together. We also took the legs and thighs off a chicken carcass and rubbed the chicken down with an herb marinade. Then we put the speck underneath the chicken skin to make a sauce. There’s been a lot of really good cooking at the house.

RL: Sometimes we just eat chips and guac, though.

I’ve been doing more yoga, reading for pleasure, going to the shop. I’m getting into art projects that fell by the wayside and doing some kitchen stuff with Will like learning how to de-bone a chicken.

WM: We are just lucky with how small the restaurant is and how manageable it has been. Rosemary is working really hard right now getting the website together and dealing with daily operation there. But there has been of lot of new energy being developed. When we get back, all of this is going to work its way into how the restaurant operates. It will be a little bit of a new Comptoir, maybe only noticeable to us.

There’s going to be a lot of restaurants that close and a lot of restaurants that we love to go to that are really underrepresented, and that’s really sad. But restaurants are too old, they are too important, they will survive and things will get back. —Will Mester

Why do restaurants matter?
WM: At the end of the day, I’m extremely optimistic about restaurants. There’s going to be a lot of restaurants that close and a lot of restaurants that we love to go to that are really underrepresented, and that’s really sad. But restaurants are too old, they are too important, they will survive and things will get back.

A lot of people in this country are talking about what’s going to happen to restaurants. David Chang thinks that food is going to revert back to the ’80s or ’90s when there weren’t as many options and big chains running things, but I can’t imagine that people in Paris are wondering about the fate of their restaurant culture. It’s so tied into everyday life. It’s the fabric of those cities and they are just as important here. People have to go to restaurants. People have to go out, they have to socialize. Restaurants provide that space. This is what cities are all about. Without them you’re just a prisoner of your own life.

What about in Baltimore?
WM: It’s going to be stronger—absolutely going to be stronger—that often happens in times of adversity. Restaurants will survive.

What are you looking forward to when Le Comptoir reopens?
WM: I’m looking forward to having everyone back in the restaurant, from working to get ready for service and seeing the space come to life to cleaning down the kitchen at 10 o’ clock and going over to Pen & Quill to have a beer.

RL: I have a hard time not working. I do a bad job at self-care, but I’ve been implementing new systems in my life since we’ve been closed. I hope to create better boundaries so I can be a better boss and more sustainable in my job when we reopen. But I also look forward to seeing the whole dining room filled with candles, especially in the fall when it gets a little bit darker and when everyone walks in. It’s so cozy and beautiful when the space is all lit up.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

3/6-7: Serce Pop-Up
Chef Antoni Szachowicz—who cut his teeth at fine-dining spots such as Lemaire in Richmond, Virginia, The Oval Room in Washington, D.C., and Inferno Pizzeria in Gaithersburg—has been developing a modern take on Polish cuisine in preparation for a concept that he hopes will become a future brick-and-mortar restaurant. To test out some of his dishes, the chef is hosting a pop-up in the Salt Tavern space in Upper Fells Point March 6-7. Serce, which translates to “heart” in Polish, will highlight a menu of a la carte small plates, as well as accompanying cocktails, beer, and wine. Inspired by Szachowicz’s mother’s cooking and his recent trips to Poland, the menu will include dishes like stuffed cabbage rolls with buckwheat popcorn, mackerel with apple and celery, and potato-fried perch in a pine shoot syrup.

3/8: Guest Chef Dinner at Foraged
True Chesapeake Oyster Co. executive chef Zack Mills is heading to his Hampden neighbor, Foraged, to prepare a special Sunday dinner with chef Chris Amendola. From 5-9 p.m., enjoy an a la carte menu that blends Mills’ seafood expertise with Amendola’s passion for natural ingredients. Plates to look out for will include beef tartare with smoked oyster emulsion, Nashville hot oysters, and oyster pot pie with pork belly.

NEWS

James Beard Semifinalists Announced: Once again, Charm City has been rightfully recognized by the Oscars of the food world. The James Beard Award semifinalists were announced earlier this week, and Remington’s own taqueria and mezcaleria Clavel was named among the national nominees for Outstanding Bar Program for the second year in a row. Since opening in 2015, the spot has gained a reputation for putting mezcal on the map in Baltimore. Its staff even takes routine trips to Mexico each year to meet with farmers and learn more about the agave plant. Though Clavel was not named a finalist last year, we’re keeping our fingers crossed that owner Lane Harlan, chef/owner Carlos Raba, and head bartender Dre Barnhill take home the medal this year.

Equally as exciting: Charleston’s Chef Cindy Wolf—who often cracks that she’s “the Susan Lucci” of the Best Chef: Mid-Atlantic category—was named a finalist for the 13th time. “Congratulations to everyone in our region,” Wolf wrote on Instagram. “I am proud to be a part of this group and going for our 9th [finalist] nomination.” The list will be narrowed down on March 25, and the official awards ceremony in Chicago is scheduled for May 4.

Le Comptoir du Vin Takes Winter Break: Unfortunately, there will be no pistachio celery salad or French lentils served at everyone’s new favorite bistro in Station North this week. After a whirlwind few months that included national acclaim from Bon Appetit and Esquire, the team is taking a well-deserved winter hiatus through March 3. Dinner service will resume on Wednesday, March 4.

OPEN

Good Works Spirit House: After Coelum closed in Canton last month, the owners of the building—who previously ran Gitan Bistro Cru in the space—have initiated a quick turnaround with this new concept. Emphasizing craft cocktails and small plates, the corner bar showcases offerings such as roasted beet salads, bacon-wrapped dates, crispy tater tots, and the “Fresh Start” cocktail made with basil-infused vodka and cucumber lemon shrub.

Squisito Too: This Annapolis-based pizza and pasta palace has expanded its reach with a DIY spinoff that opened its doors in Howard County this month. The fast-casual Squisito Too in Jessup allows diners to customize pasta, salad, and veggie bowls with tons of different protein and topping combinations. Aside from the build-your-own options, there’s also subs, wraps, and oven-fired pizzas to chow down on.

COMING SOON

BurgerFi: Speaking of fast-casual spots, this burger bar is moving into The Avenue at White Marsh this summer—but it isn’t your average chain restaurant. Best known for its massive onion rings, Instagram-worthy shakes, and branded burger buns, the modernized concept uses self-service kiosks that have facial recognition software to remember customers’ favorite orders. In keeping with that approach, the eco-conscious spot also boasts furniture made with recycled material and energy-efficient lighting.

The dining scene continues to soar, and, oh, what a year it was to eat—and drink—in Baltimore. What didn’t I eat this year? From foie gras and snails to matcha ice cream and crab cakes with succotash, I enjoyed it all. But a few things stand out, and there’s a theme to my picks here. Life is complicated enough—when it comes to dining out, this was the year I craved simple sandwiches, comfort food, and mezcal-based cocktails to wash it all down. In looking back, who knew that celery—a vegetable of last resort—would play a starring role on my best bites list?

The Mezcalita at Clavel

I eat in restaurants for a living, so I try not to order the same dishes (or drinks) again and again when I’m dining out. That’s how I came to discover the mezcalita. The margarita at Clavel is likely my favorite liquid on the planet, but I branched out this year and moved on to the mezcalita, an impossibly smoky, sweet, and spicy concoction that should be savored with every sip. If I’m being completely honest, I originally ordered my go-to margarita at this Remington hotspot, but the mezcalita was brought to the table instead. Talk about happy accidents.

The Clam Dip at True Chesapeake Oyster Co.

It’s hard to find a good clam dip—or any clam dip for that matter—outside of New England, so I couldn’t resist trying this offering at the seafood-centric True Chesapeake in Whitehall Mill. This version, an old family recipe that comes from owner Patrick Hudson’s grandmother, was loaded with fat and luscious clams. And the house-potato chips, impossibly crispy and nicely salted, were the perfect foil for dunking and cutting the richness of the creamy dip.

The Fried Chicken Sandwich at The Choptank

Who gets a fried chicken sandwich at a crabhouse? I do. Making good fried chicken is an art form, and chef Andrew Weinzirl has demonstrated it at this new upscale crab house in Fells Point. An air-chilled, buttermilk-brined breast allows the meat to stay moist and stand up to the coating. A tangy mumbo sauce adds heat and a house-made slaw adds crunch. Think heaven in a bun.

Cornmeal Fried Oysters at Charleston

No one knows how to fry an oyster better than James Beard-nominated chef Cindy Wolf at this Harbor East gem. With six to an order, and accompanied by a kicky cayenne mayonnaise, they’re all too easy to eat like candy. Learning some restraint takes willpower, but I’ve learned to savor each and every bite—it leaves me with less longing between visits.

Falafel Salad at The Corner Pantry

This sweet spot in the Lake Falls Village shopping center is one of my favorite stops for creative and always fresh salads. Chef Neil Howell is a Brit, but it seems he’s also mastered Middle Eastern cuisine. His house-made falafel on a bed of green with tahini dressing is delicious. No shortcuts are taken here, even the pita chips are house-made.

Pesce al Brodetto at Limoncello

This Locust Point newcomer that celebrates the treasures of Southern Italian coastal cooking has been great straight out of the gate. To wit, the pesce al brodetto, a beautiful bowl rife with Manila clams, calamari, head-on shrimp, scallops, fish, tomatoes, and saffron broth. Given the different cooking times for each type of seafood, it’s a dish that can be easily overcooked, but is cooked to perfection here. The accompanying grilled bread adds the final grace note.

The Tilted Burger at The Tilted Row

When is a cheeseburger more than a cheeseburger? When it’s the cheeseburger coming from the kitchen at Bolton Hill’s new gastropub The Tilted Row. Hard to say whether it’s the addition of pimento cheese, the smoky bacon or mile-high mound of onions, the crunchy pickles, or the proprietary sauce that makes it work so well. Or maybe it’s just the alchemy of it all.

The Brussels Sprouts at Birroteca

Just when I thought that I’d eaten enough Brussels sprouts for the rest of my life, I went back for one more serving at Birroteca. This dish, flash-fried Brussels drizzled with chili oil, sitting in a swirl of black garlic aioli and topped with coppa, was my go-to appetizer at this artisanal pizza spot for many years, but I hadn’t been in some time. After the recent passing of its owner Robbin Haas, I went as an homage. It was as good as ever and a fitting legacy of a beloved restaurateur.

Raspberry Macarons (Or Any Macarons) at Sacré Sucré

Everyone and their uncle likes to call a cookie a macaron, but very few are the real deal. These are. Spouses Dane Thibodeaux and Manuel Sanchez use real fruit fillings and no artificial ingredients for their confections, which come in a variety of delectable flavors including salty caramel, vanilla, chocolate, and lemon. I love the burst of tangy raspberry to offset the sweetness, plus, I’m pretty sure it counts as my daily fruit serving.

The Celery Salad at Le Comptoir du Vin

There’s a reason that Station North’s tiny boîte, Le Comptoir du Vin, became an almost overnight sensation, landing on Bon Appetit’s Hot 10 List and earning a spot on Esquire’s list of Best New Restaurants in America. It’s that good. But likely its star status came from, of all things, this celery salad, flecked with pistachios and dates and coltura (anchovies). It’s a study in salt and sweet—a humble salad that’s also incredibly refreshing. Really, the best of my best bites.

COMING SOON

Crust by Mack: Chef Amanda Mack’s beloved baked goods have been added to the lineup of local eats that will be offered inside Hampden’s Whitehall Food Market when it opens later this year. After nearly two years of focusing solely on pop-ups and deliveries, Mack will set up shop inside the communal space to serve her sweet-and-savory hand pies (think everything from cherry almond to the “Bmore Crust” filled with jumbo lump crab meat), as well as cinnamon rolls and a Baltimore-inspired chocolate chip cookie made with brown butter and Old Bay. “It’s so Baltimore, but then it’s also that classic chocolate chip cookie that everybody dreams of,” she says, also mentioning brunch pastries that will be paired with Champagne and bellinis. In keeping with Mack’s social justice philosophy, she is looking forward to hosting community gatherings and speaker series in the market’s designated events space. “It’s the perfect location,” she says. “I’m excited to be around other like-minded people and collaborate with some of my favorite brands.”

THB Neighborhood Bagelry + Deli: Since opening its flagship in Towson 20 years ago, THB has expanded into three other neighborhoods and served more than 52 million bagels to the Baltimore community at large. To celebrate its big birthday, the deli is widening its footprint yet again—this time to Howard County. A fifth shop at Columbia Crossing is slated to open this winter, highlighting THB’s signature breakfast sandwiches, wraps, salads, and paninis.

OPEN

Pizza di Joey: The footlong “monster” slices from this roving pizza truck have finally found a permanent home inside Cross Street Market. Owner Joey Vanoni debuted a brick-and-mortar stall inside the renovated market last weekend, just in time for the Ravens home opener. Stop by the stall—or the attached take-out window that is open until 12 a.m. on Saturdays for revelers in Federal Hill—for wood-fired slices topped with everything from pepperoni and mozzarella to barbecue chicken and lump crab. Pizza di Joey joins newly opened spots Rice Crook, Annoula’s Kitchen, and Gangster Vegan in the revitalized property, which is expected to be fully leased by spring 2020.

NEWS

Le Comptoir du Vin Ranked Best in the Country by Bon Appetit: The fastidious food editors at Bon Appetit magazine narrowed their list of the 50 Best New Restaurants in the country down to 10 this week, and local diners were ecstatic to see that beloved French bistro Le Comptoir du Vin made the cut. Coming in at No. 8 on the list of the top newcomers in America, the Station North spot was praised for its chicken liver pâté, hand-cut steak tartare, and fresh-baked breads.

“The food is not even really what Le Comptoir is about,” writes editor Julia Kramer. “It’s about having a place where you feel immediately welcomed…a place where you just wanna hang out, as golden hour fades, hoping the night never ends.” We couldn’t agree more. In response to the award, co-owners Will Mester and Rosemary Liss took to Instagram to thank their team, Bon Appetit, and the city as a whole: “We love this city and are so proud to be here,” reads the post. “Thank you Baltimore for your love and support.”

EPICUREAN EVENTS

9/20-22: Mount Vernon Marketplace Turns 4
In the four years since Mount Vernon Marketplace debuted on Park Avenue, we’ve seen OG vendors like The Local Oyster, Cultured, Pinch Dumplings, and Taps Filling Station cement their place in the local dining landscape. And, along the way, the market has welcomed exciting new concepts like Indibowl, Mr. Souvlaki, and Fishnet. In celebration of the food hall’s four-year anniversary this weekend, all of the stalls will be running individual specials. Be on the lookout for $5 milkshakes and orders of fries at Between 2 Buns, $5 rice bowls and $10 soju bottles at Brown Rice, and a “Five Buck Birthday Cup”—which tops a sweet cream base with Oreos and birthday sprinkles—at Roll Bmore.

9/23: Farm to Chef Maryland
In honor of its 10th anniversary, this culinary competition benefitting local nonprofit TasteWise Kids is back and bigger than ever. Nearly 30 chefs—including Stefano Porcile of Orto, Jesse Sandlin of The Outpost American Tavern, Mark Levy of Magdalena, Doug Wetzel of Gertrude’s, and David Thomas of Ida B’s Table—will be paired with a local farm and tasked with creating a dish that showcases Baltimore’s bounty of homegrown produce. Plus, cocktail connoisseurs from the Baltimore Bartenders’ Guild will also use herbs and other ingredients from the featured farms to mix up signature beverages. Attendees will vote for their favorite eats and drinks of the night, and a portion of all proceeds will support the nonprofit’s efforts to educate kids about the origins of their food.

SHUT

The Haute Dog Carte: The Mt. Washington scene lost this old standby earlier this month. Chef Daniel Raffel took to Facebook to announce that he would be shutting down his hot dog cart—stationed in a converted garage next to Bonjour Bakery on Falls Road—indefinitely. “I am humbled by the kindness, support and love from all who joined me on this fun adventure,” he wrote. “I will sign off until there is something to report.” Some of the offerings that became favorites among lunchtime regulars included the spicy Italian dog topped with onion jam and the smoked country sausage with whole grain mustard. Here’s hoping the fabulous franks stuffed inside flaky baguettes will make a comeback sometime soon.

CH-CH CHANGES

Little Bird: Hampden locals were still getting to know this six-month-old subterranean spot when co-owners Paul and Caroline Benkert recently decided to close it and pivot in a new direction. Come May, the space will be transformed from a European-inspired cafe to an extension of the Bluebird Cocktail Room—which the owners operate upstairs in the same Hickory Avenue building. “Upstairs will remain the cocktail room, and downstairs will be the pub,” explains Paul.

Bluebird’s literary-themed aesthetic will carry over into the pub, which will showcase deep blue walls, built-in banquettes, and dim lighting with candles. The food options will differ slightly, however, highlighting more traditional offerings like fish n’ chips made with whole fish filleted in house. Other pub additions will include a large global whiskey selection, more beer, a daily lunch menu, and brunch service on the weekends.

“The Baltimore community has been incredibly supportive during these first two years,” Paul says. “The Bluebird needs room to grow, and unfortunately, the Little Bird concept doesn’t allow that to directly happen.” He goes on to say that pub will remedy the long wait times that diners experience at Bluebird on busy nights. “In a single weekend, we lose nearly 400 guests,” he says. “We’re very much looking forward to providing many of those guests with a similar experience downstairs while they’re waiting.” 3600 Hickory Ave. 667-303-3263

OPEN

R&R Taqueria: Window signage teasing a new location of this Guy Fieri-approved taco joint has been on display at the corner of Charles and Lombard streets for a while now. And earlier this week, the beloved taqueria finally made its downtown debut. Stop in to see chef/owner Rodrigo Albarran—more fondly known as Chef Rod—serving up the restaurant’s signature tacos, burritos, fajitas, and burgers including the “Fuego” topped with sriracha mayo and ghost pepper cheese. Decorated with colorful dia de los muertos wall murals, the 3,600-square-foot space is a far cry from Albarran’s original tiny location inside an Elkridge gas station. The new digs offer 80 seats, space for live music performances, a mezzanine level, and a full bar with plenty of margaritas and Mexican beers to go around. 30 Light St. Ste 2.

NEWS

Food & Wine Makers Issue Gives Love to Local Producers: Don’t be surprised to see some familiar faces while flipping through the current edition of Food & Wine magazine. The publication’s first-ever Makers Issue spotlights more than 30 “game-changing craftspeople who are reshaping cuisine in America and abroad by redefining ingredients, drinks, tools, restaurant design, and experiences.” Among those people is our own Spike Gjerde of Woodberry Kitchen, whose writeup mentions his go-to growers including Colleen and Michael Histon of Shepherds Manor Creamery in Carroll County and Rob Miller of Distillery Lane Ciderworks in Frederick County.

James Beard Nominations: Speaking of representing Baltimore on the national level, in case you missed it, Clavel and Chef Cindy Wolf were both names James Beard Semifinalists this week. The Remington mezcaleria was given a nod for Outstanding Bar Program and Chef Wolf was nominated for an impressive 12th time in the category of Best Chef Mid-Atlantic. The more narrowed list of finalists will be out March 27 and the James Beard Awards will be presented in Chicago on May 6. Hoping that beginner’s luck—as well as patient perseverance—are on our side this year.

Le Comptoir du Vin: After three months of serving non-stop sourdough and swordfish, the team at this new Station North bistro is taking a brief hiatus to rest, recoup, and conduct some culinary research abroad. The staff is going on a winter vacation to eat their way through Montreal, Copenhagen, and Oaxaca, and will return in time to reopen Le Comptoir du Vin on March 5. When dreaming up their plans for the wine bar, co-owners Will Mester and Rosemary Liss were inspired by the intimate spots they encountered while traveling throughout Europe—so we wouldn’t be surprised to see a few new dishes make their way onto the menu after they return from their current trip. 1729 Maryland Ave. 443-297-7384

EPICUREAN EVENTS

3/1-3: Suspended Brewing’s One-Year Anniversary Celebration
In the year since this neighborhood microbrewery opened its doors in Pigtown, it’s released a stellar beer lineup while also educating the masses about the importance of being socially and economically sustainable. To celebrate its big birthday, Suspended is hosting a weekend-long celebration featuring new releases, raffles all weekend, Friday-night trivia, and a sold-out Sunday drag brunch. Stop by the wood-stained taproom throughout the weekend to toast the milestone with a flight of new beers like the “Clockwork Universe” (French saison brewed with oats and orange peel) and “Caterpillar Schemes,” a hazy IPA brewed with 50 percent oats and hopped with azacca and Nelson Sauvin hops. 912 Washington Blvd. 410-926-8847

3/4: Plenty More Fish in the Sea
Salmon and rockfish often take the spotlight in the fine-dining world. But the brains behind South Baltimore staples Minnow and Rye Street Tavern are coming together to host this collaboration dinner in an effort to highlight lesser-known fish that are oftentimes more sustainable. (Think everything from blowfish tails to frog legs.) Rye Street’s chef Brian Plante and Minnow’s Ben Lefenfeld will present a five-course menu including oven-roasted salmon collars, smoked bluefish pierogies with lemon and capers, and wood-grilled Boston mackerel in a red wine jus. Rye Street Tavern, 13 Rye St. 6:30. $79

A restaurant’s menu can be minimalist without being simple. Proof of this can be found in Station North, where the charming new European-style bistro Le Comptoir du Vin has been impressing sophisticated diners since it opened in November. Generally, just seven to 10 dishes are scrawled in white chalk on a blackboard in the tiny dining room, but each of them offers a gateway to the best attributes of French-inspired cuisine.

Take for example a relatively mundane-sounding bowl of lentils. Here, chef and coowner Will Mester demonstrates the depth of his skill. When combined with vadouvan, a French spice that is a derivative of masala, and labneh, a thick Greek yogurt that has been strained to remove most of its whey, the dish sparkles. Bread is a key component of any European meal, and the soft, lightly charred grilled flatbread paired perfectly with the concoction.

It’s terrific, but it’s not even the best bread in the place. Mester’s girlfriend, coowner Rosemary Liss, calls pastry chef Kelsey Martin their “secret weapon.” She won’t be a secret for long. Her wheat sourdough, made with spelt and red wheat flour, is the kind of bread that makes even the thought of succumbing to a low-carb diet preposterous. It’s served warm, slightly crisp, and topped with Japanese katsuobushi butter. Two thick pieces accompanied an outstanding order of pork pâté. We assume most people smear it on the bread, but each slice was so tasty on its own that we savored them individually.

Mester and Liss met three years ago while working at Bottega, the revered neo-Italian restaurant that occupied Le Comptoir du Vin’s space until it moved a block away in 2017. His Baltimore culinary journey includes stops at Woodberry Kitchen and the late Parts & Labor. She did fermentation and tended bar at Clavel. They’d been looking for the right location to open their own restaurant for nearly two years when the Maryland Avenue venue became available.

“Travelling together in Europe and seeing these small wine bars, we knew that was what we wanted,” Liss says. “Something intimate that could be a neighborhood spot.”

Co-owners Will Mester and Rosemary Liss met three years ago while working at Bottega.

They did some minor remodeling to their former home away from home, most significantly adding a small, four-seat bar that overlooks the kitchen. During our visits in December, most of the eight tables were occupied. Le Comptoir du Vin means “the wine counter” in French, and it was the name of a bistro Mester frequented often when he lived in Lyon, France. “The chef was a very charismatic older guy who was addicted to horse gambling and lovingly screaming at his customers,” says Mester, whom we didn’t hear yell once. “I am very much rooted in the market-driven cuisine that has a great history in France.”

Mester and Liss have spent time in Osaka (where his mother is from), Tokyo, and Kyoto, so Japanese flavors play a large role at Le Comptoir du Vin as well. Orion, a light lager from Okinawa, was the only beer selection on the nights we were there. When it comes to libations, here, too, Mester and Liss are judicious but nuanced with their selections. Two reds, two whites, and one skin-contact wine were available by the glass, with six others sold by the bottle only (most are French). Sake, Campari, whiskey and ginger ale, and gin and tonic were also available.

During our first meal, we drank Côtes du Rhône, which paired well with our pici pasta and swordfish served with large corona beans and salsa verde. The pici pasta, essentially fat spaghetti, was served with duck ragout and olives and was complex and well executed. In keeping with European sensibilities, both entrees were on the smaller side, but appropriately priced at $16 and $18 respectively. That left plenty of room (in our stomachs and our wallets) for a slice of Martin’s signature Japanese yuzu cheesecake, which managed to be rich and light at the same time.

The star of our second dinneralong with that sourdough breadwas the steak tartare. Masterfully seasoned and topped with a raw egg yolk, it was accompanied by decadent potatoes simmered in water and then fried in duck fat and tossed with the classic herb-parsley mix persillade. The menu will change on a seasonal, weekly, and even daily basis, Mester and Liss say, but stalwarts such as the sourdough (and steak tartare, we hope) aren’t going anywhere.

Opening their own restaurant has been a whirlwind, the couple says. The key, according to Mester, is “finding a balance between work and the rest of your life. It’s a lot, but when it’s yours, it’s really gratifying and exciting.” They’re serving outstanding, worldly food in a lovely, warm space—and they’re still doing it together. What more could we ask for? That’s simply magnifique.

LE COMPTOIR DU VIN 1729 Maryland Ave., 443-297-7384. HOURS: Tues.-Sat. 5:30-10 p.m. PRICES: $8-18. AMBIANCE: Casual.

OPEN

Milk & Honey Market: It’s been two years since Milk & Honey Market closed its original location in Mt. Vernon, and now, the spot has finally made a comeback in Station North. Located on the ground floor of the artsy Nelson Kohl apartment building near Penn Station, the cafe offers a menu of warm and cold coffee drinks, smoothies, sandwiches, salads, and pastries. The new space is bright and inviting, with white walls, modern light fixtures, comfy couches, and lots of interior greenery. On the heels of the Station North opening, owners Ernst and Dana Valery are also planning to expand with a second location in Pigtown. The forthcoming cafe will be housed in the new Bath House Square project in development on Washington Boulevard. 20 E. Lanvale St. 667-309-3506

Farm to Face: Regulars of the Baltimore Farmers’ Market & Bazaar no longer have to wait around until Sunday mornings to get their hands on a seasonal falafel wrap from this longtime vendor. Farm to Face owner Miranda Betts recently moved into her own brick-and-mortar space on Harford Road in Hamilton. The former home of Zeke’s Coffee, which relocated to larger digs up the street last year, is now a permanent shop for Betts to serve her organic falafel in wraps. The crispy chickpea balls are topped with seasonal fruits and veggies (think everything from beets and strawberries to apples and arugula) and signature sauces before being tucked into traditional or leafy lettuce wraps. 4607 Harford Rd. 443-438-5559

Haven Street Ballroom: The owners of the modern-industrial event venue Main Street Ballroom in Ellicott City have launched a second space on North Haven Street in Highlandtown. Sandwiched between Urban Axes and Monument City Brewing Company, the airy space features white walls and high ceilings on the inside, and a bright exterior mural with pops of pink and yellow—which was designed by frequent Monument City collaborator White Coffee Lettering—on the outside. The venue is now booking events being held after May 1, 2019. 1 N. Haven St.

COMING SOON

Döner Brös: After spending a year roaming around on their Oktoberfest-inspired food truck, Döner Brös owners Alex Politsch and Steven Banks are putting the finishing touches on their brick-and-mortar eatery in Charles Village this week. The spot will open to the public on Monday, December 17, serving salads, wraps, and fries topped with authentic döner kebab meat cooked on a vertical rotisserie. Döner Brös neighbors THB Bagels & Deli, Bird in Hand, and Red Star Bar & Grille in the Nine East 33rd development near the Johns Hopkins University campus. “Hopkins was always a home run for the food truck so it was only natural for us to open our first store here,” Banks said in a statement. “We are excited to add another unique cultural option to the already eclectic and dynamic neighborhood.” 9 E. 33rd St. 844-366-7277

NEWS

Wayward Smokehouse Expanding to White Marsh: Federal Hill locals should prepare to see familiar signage while spending time around The Avenue at White Marsh in 2019. The team behind Wayward Smokehouse on South Charles Street has announced plans to take over the former Don Pablo’s space off of Honeygo Boulevard. The plan is for the restaurant to combine Wayward’s Texas barbecue vibe with The Curious Oyster, a new concept that focuses on sustainable seafood. 8161 Honeygo Blvd. White Marsh

Guinness Partners with Sierra Nevada for Fire Relief: In the wake of the deadly wildfires that recently spread throughout Northern California, Sierra Nevada recently established the Camp Fire Relief Fund to help rebuild communities affected. Doing what they do best, the brewing behemoth also created the Resilience Butte County Proud IPA, with proceeds directly benefiting the fund. Our own Guinness Open Gate Brewery & Barrel House is one of 1,200 breweries nationwide that has vowed to brew and sell the beer in hopes of providing more relief.

“I grew up in California and even though I’m now on the East Coast, the wildfire tragedies still feel close to home,” Open Gate brewmaster Peter Wiens said in a statement “Ken Grossman and the rest of the Sierra Nevada family are industry icons, and I’m honored to join their effort to help rebuild the lives of those devastated by the Camp Fire.” The IPA will be available in the Guinness taproom and upstairs 1817 restaurant starting December 13. One hundred percent of all proceeds will benefit the rebuilding efforts. 5001 Washington Blvd., Halethorpe. 800-909-2645

EPICUREAN EVENTS

12/13: 3rd Annual Christmas in Mexico at The Charmery
The Charmery co-owner David Alima and Clavel chef Carlos Raba have been hard at work preparing for their third-annual Christmas in Mexico celebration this week. The duo will be getting into the holiday spirit with fried ice cream treats that resemble adornos de navidad (Christmas ornaments). A portion of all proceeds will benefit Guardian Gym—a California-based boxing and jiu jitsu nonprofit that Raba supports. 801 W. 36th St. 6:30-8:30 p.m.

12/16: Prima Pop-Up at Le Comptoir du Vin
New Station North restaurant Le Comptoir du Vin is teaming up with yet-to-open Old Goucher spot Sophomore Coffee to host a special breakfast pop-up this weekend. Mix up your regular Sunday brunch routine with a traditional Turkish breakfast (think boiled eggs, veggies, cheese, and flatbread) paired with warm drinks provided by Sophomore. The team will be pouring Toby’s Estate coffees, as well as local Sparrowtail Tea blends. 1729 Maryland Ave. 10 a.m.-3 p.m. $12

OPEN

Le Comptoir du Vin: For years, local diners knew the cozy space at 1729 Maryland Avenue as the home of Bottega—the celebrated BYOB from local restaurateur Adrien Aeschliman. The Tuscan spot later migrated to larger digs down the street, but the building still remains in the Bottega family. Former employees Will Mester and Rosemary Liss recently transformed the Station North space into a European bistro called Le Comptoir du Vin, French for “the wine counter.” At the new restaurant, Mester, formerly of Woodberry Kitchen and Parts & Labor, pairs a selection of French regional wines with dishes such as house sourdough with butter and grated daikon, steak tartare with country potatoes, gnocchi with duck ragout, and a signature yuzu cheesecake. The 35-seat spot is now open Tuesday-Saturday for dinner service. 1729 Maryland Ave.

COMING SOON

Pure Raw Juice: This fuel-up fixture has been providing colorful smoothies, pressed juices, and acai bowls to locals since its Federal Hill flagship debuted in 2015. Pure Raw expanded with a new shop in Towson soon after, and now, the juice bar is widening its footprint yet again with a third location in Hampden. Equipped with large windows and a mezzanine level, the new spot is expected to debut at The Rotunda shopping center in the spring of 2019. Pure Raw president Richard Manson says he’s looking forward to joining neighbors like MOM’s Organic Market and Brick Bodies in the mixed-used development. “We’re really excited to join the Hampden community,” he says. “It’s a community that really understands and respects what we do.” Hampden dwellers will easily be able to stick to their New Year’s resolutions with the shop’s signature juice blends including the “True Blood” (pineapple, beet, carrot, and orange) and Lemon Ginger-Aid, which fuses ginger root, lemon, and filtered water. 711 W. 40th St.

NEWS

Chef Ashish Alfred Heads to the Beard House: The chef/owner of French brasserie Duck Duck Goose in Fells Point recently received the ultimate culinary honor when he was invited to cook at the James Beard House in New York City next month. Alfred, who was classically trained at the French Culinary Institute of Manhattan, plans to showcase his passion for French technique with a five-course meal that incorporates some his favorite dishes at Duck Duck Goose. “Cooking at the Beard House is really a dream come true for me,” Alfred said in a statement. “It’s an amazing honor to be invited to such a center of culinary achievement and share my best work with an intimate group of discerning guests—even more so because we’ll be together in the heart of the holiday season.” Tickets for the dinner on December 20 at 7 p.m. start at $140.

David Thomas Wins Chopped: Regulars gathered at Ida B’s Table last night to watch executive chef David Thomas cook for judges Martha Stewart, Amanda Freitag, and Marc Murphy on a special Thanksgiving episode of Food Network’s Chopped. Thomas made Baltimore proud, and ultimately won over the judges in every round of the tournament-style competition. His Southern soul food-inspired dishes included a mac and cheese made with Stewart’s butternut squash soup, deep-fried turkey breast with cracklings and gravy, and a spoonbread hand pie with cranberry and port whipped cream. “For me to be standing here in this moment is a powerful thing,” Thomas said on the show, after he was crowned the Chopped champion and winner of a $10,000 grand prize. “It lets me know that I’m on the right path. I feel like the ancestors are smiling.”

Nick’s Inner Harbor Seafood Closing at Cross Street Market: There are many diverse stalls that will be operating in the newly renovated Cross Street Market by the time construction wraps up next year, but, sadly, longtime vendor Nick’s Inner Harbor Seafood won’t be one of them. After a drawn-out lease dispute with developer Caves Valley Partners, Nick’s will be closing its doors for good on January 7. According to the Baltimore Business Journal, the announcement of the closure comes after a settlement was reached between Caves Valley and Nick’s owner Kwang Lee last week. Next month, be sure to pull up a wooden barstool and celebrate Nick’s 46 year-run with one last round of oysters and massive 32-oz. beers. 1065 S. Charles St. 410-685-2020

SHUT (FOR NOW)

BonChon Canton: For the time being, Canton diners will have to look elsewhere when cravings for Korean fried chicken strike. A sign posted to the front door of Bonchon off of Boston Street indicates that the Asian-fusion eatery will be temporarily closed until further notice. It goes on to thank guests for their patience and understanding. There’s no word yet on the reasons for the closure, or on when the spot plans to reopen. We’re not sure how long devoted regulars can last without the twice-fried chicken wings, pork buns, and bibimbap bowls, so here’s hoping for a swift turnaround. 3500 Boston St.

OPEN

La Calle: Chef Valentino Sandoval unveiled his modern Mexican cantina in the 10 South Street building downtown earlier this week. The menu reflects the chef’s Mexican roots, while also fusing the global techniques—from French and American to Italian and seafood—that he learned while working under the likes of Marc Vetri and Michelin-rated chef Walter Abrams in Philadelphia before moving to Charm City. Reserve one of the dark wood tables to enjoy dishes like Tijuana Caesar salad, crab empanadas with corn and Oaxaca cheese, oyster mushroom quesadillas, barbacoa tacos with guacamole, and pan-seared salmon with fava beans and huitlacoche (Mexican truffle) aioli. 10 South St. 667-312-2964

Suya Spot: This Randallstown favorite is bringing its authentic Nigerian fare to the burgeoning dining scene in Owings Mills. Suya Spot will cut the ribbon at its second location in the mixed-use Metro Centre development on Friday, July 27. Expect to see chef/owner Fola Jinadu whipping up delicacies including catfish pepper soup, spicy flamed goat, peppered snail, and, of course, the namesake suya (meat skewers) in varieties like shrimp, chicken, fish, and beef. 10309 Grand Central Ave. Ste. 104

COMING SOON

Le Comptoir du Vin: Ever since the baby-sized Bottega relocated to larger digs down the street last year, Station North locals have missed feasting on Tuscan specialties in the cozy dining room. But now, two former Bottega employees are reopening the original Maryland Avenue space—this time as a French wine bar. This fall, chef Will Mester (formerly of Woodberry Kitchen) and his partner Rosemary Liss plan to open Le Comptoir du Vin, which is French for “the wine counter.” The duo recently told the Baltimore Business Journal that they will focus on pairing staples like pâté, roast duck, steak, and chicken with worldly wines from “lesser known regions.” 1709 Maryland Ave.

Tiki Lee’s: In the two years, since rebranding from its former concept Saute, Lee’s Pint and Shell has become one of Canton’s favorite corner bars. (Locals have come to love the famous 50-cent oysters during happy hour, $15 lobster dinners on Sundays, and massive Shuckin’ in the Street block parties.) Now, boaters will be happy to hear that the seafood concept is expanding with a sister spot along the water in Sparrows Point. Located at North Point Cove off of Morse Lane, the dock bar is expected to open this fall, highlighting spinoffs of the grub offered at Lee’s in Canton and—judging by its name—plenty of tiki drinks to go around. 4309 Shore Drive, Sparrows Point.

CH-CH CHANGES

Cafe Mezzanotte: A massive makeover is in the works at this Italian outpost in Severna Park. The restaurant, which dates back to the ’70s, will close for renovations on July 30. Come September, it will be completely revamped to feature an expanded floor plan with new furniture, color schemes, lighting, and interior decor. Along with the new look, the restaurant will debut more than 20 new menu items and an updated beverage lineup at the grand reopening. 760 Ritchie Highway, Severna Park. 410-647-1100

EPICUREAN EVENTS

7/28: Trifecta Food Truck & Music Festival

This Saturday, the Trifecta festival returns to the Timonium Fairgrounds offering local eats, drinks, and live music all in one place. Chow down on grub from more than 35 local food trucks (think the likes of Gypsy Queen, Kommie Pig, and Farm to Charm) while jamming to a rockin’ lineup featuring The Herd of Main Street, Kelly Bell Band, and Steal Your Peach—an Allman Brothers and Grateful Dead tribute band. Plus, there will be more than 40 craft vendors, inflatable attractions for the kiddos, and the annual pie-eating contest with Rodney Henry of Dangerously Delicious Pies. 2200 York Rd. 12-9 p.m. $15.

7/28: Beat the Clock Happy Hour at Parts & Labor
Arrive at this Remington hangout early to take advantage of discounted Old Oriole Park beers from Peabody Heights Brewing. Cans will start at 25 cents at 11 a.m., and the cost will double every hour until it reaches regular price. If you’re not a beer person, enjoy boozy snowballs, Jell-O shots, and bourbon specials until 4 p.m. Of course, there will also be specialty eats like Sloppy Joes and Italian sausages on the grill outside. 2600 N. Howard St. 11 a.m.- 4p.m. 443-873-8887

SHARK WEEK SPECIALS

Frazier’s on the Avenue: Tune into the Discovery Channel shenanigans from this Hampden dive, which is celebrating accordingly with aqua-themed food and drink deals all week long. Sip $4 Heavy Seas Loose Cannon and Union Skipjack drafts while enjoying $10 food specials including fish tacos with avocado sour cream, salmon cake sliders with lemon-dill tartar, and beer-battered ahi tuna bites with fries. 919 W. 36th St. 410-662-4914

Shark Week Party at Jailbreak Brewing: On Friday, July 27, head to the Jailbreak taproom in Laurel to catch up on the “Shark Week” specials before a special screening of Jaws at 7 p.m. Fittingly, the party will also feature beer-and-bite deals like the brewery’s cherry cream ale paired with shark tacos. 9445 Washington Blvd. Ste. F. Laurel. 7-11 p.m. 443-435-9699

Nacho Mama’s: The Towson location of this Tex-Mex cantina is getting in on the fun with a special hubcap margarita. Grab a group and sip on the blue “Shark Bite Hubcap,” complete with a gummy shark, plastic swimmer figurines, and a splash of grenadine—for a scene straight out of Amity. 2 W. Pennsylvania Ave. Towson. 443-673-0069