Although the term veganism was first coined in 1944, its place in the recent cultural zeitgeist has largely been relegated to that one-month phase your worst friend went through three years ago and hasn’t stopped talking—bragging?—about since. Of course, veganism is an honorable commitment with a raft of documented health and environmental benefits, but it’s hard to imagine life without cheeseburgers. In the court of public opinion, the vegan lifestyle has always seemed undeniably noble, but carried the weight of certain stigmas.

This is changing.

For the first time ever, Maryland Vegan Restaurant Week will demonstrate that vegan food can be delicious and satisfying. From February 8 to the 18, more than 30 restaurants in Baltimore and the surrounding areas will offer special vegan menus (while Charm City has been celebrating a veganism week for the past three years, this is the first time the rest of the state is getting in on the fun). Venerable omnivorous—that’s vegan-speak for “non-vegan”—institutions such as Miss Shirley’s, R. House, and Gertrude’s will try their hand at plant-based cuisine, demonstrating how this event has permeated the mainstream and is working to reshape it.

“When I go out with my husband or my daughter, we’d like to see more on the menu than just a salad,” said Naijha Wright-Brown, the event’s co-founder and owner of The Land of Kush, a vegan soul-food restaurant in Mt. Vernon. “Part of this event is showing how creative you can be with vegan dishes.”

So, where should a curious meat-lover start on their journey to vegan-dom?

“Start with sweets, something you know you like,” advised Wright-Brown, “and the only difference you’ll notice is that you feel better afterwards.”

Luckily, there are plenty of places to sample your first vegan brownie, since Baltimore’s vegan scene is by no means a small niche. While veganism has gained traction all over the country, it has especially resonated in Baltimore.

“When I moved here over the summer, one of the first things I noticed was the number and, also, the quality of vegan restaurants” said Erin Johnson, a social media influencer who practices a vegan lifestyle. “As a transplant from the Bay Area, I just feel like, ‘Why doesn’t California have this?’”

Surprisingly, Baltimore is showing up the Bay Area in this department (as they did in Super Bowl XLVII). Beyond showcasing the endless possibilities of plant-based food, Vegan Restaurant Week is a celebration of the city itself and the people who live in it. The event is about more than new menu items—it is about fostering belonging.

“Food is about community,” said Samantha Claassen, the event’s co-founder and the owner of Golden West Cafe, a vegan-friendly southwestern restaurant in Hampden, “but it can be very challenging to find a vegan meal when you’re around other [non-vegan] people. We wanted to create a space where people could come together.”

During the themed week, this camaraderie will manifest itself through partnerships with organizations such as Vegan Drinks (a national vegan happy hour community) and No Meat Athlete (a vegan running club) to host a happy hour, run, and karaoke night, which, presumably, is no different than standard karaoke, save for a hard ban on Webstar and Young B’s 2006 classic “Chicken Noodle Soup.”

“Being a vegan can be very socially isolating,” said Rissa Miller, the founder of the Baltimore chapter of Vegan Drinks, “so, with Vegan Drinks, I wanted people to not only support plant-based restaurants and restaurateurs, but also each other.”

Baltimore’s vegan scene is also united by a singularity of purpose: to make the world a better place. According to a report by the United Nations, farmed livestock is responsible for over 14 percent of all greenhouse gas emissions; the polar ice caps are melting one porterhouse at a time. This fact is not lost on Baltimore vegans.

“I think part of the reason that veganism has caught on in Baltimore is that we’re on the coast,” said Elena Johnson (no relation to Erin), the owner and chef of the French-inspired vegan spot L’Eau de Vie Organic Brasserie in Fells Point. “We know what’s happening and what’s going to happen.”

Similarly, Wright-Brown noted that veganism is the natural result of Baltimore’s fierce civic pride. “Baltimore has a large population of activists and advocates who have introduced people to the idea that being vegan can save your body, save the planet, and save the animals,” she said. “Climate change is happening and people are getting educated and people love their city so they’re passionate about what they do.”

All sizzle, no steak never tasted so good.

OPEN

L’Eau de Vie: Plant-based diners will be happy to hear that this vegan brasserie is now officially open for business in Fells Point. Set in the first floor space that previously housed Agora Bar & Grill at the Inn at The Black Olive, the restaurant boasts pops of teal, strung lights, and a marble-top bar where guests can order colorful cocktails like apple sangria or the “Island Russian” with rum and coconut cream. L’Eau de Vie—which translates to “water of life” in French—offers meatless dishes including frites with garlic aioli, grilled tofu over quinoa, a seitan sausage reuben, and cashew cheese gougeres. 803 S. Caroline St. 443-759-8758

NEWS

The Dizz: It’s the end of an era for this iconic corner bar in Remington, which has gone through multiple iterations since 1934. (Regulars fondly remember it operating as Dizzy Issie’s through the early 2000s.) Now, current owners Darlene and Thomas Basta are retiring and putting the bar on the market. According to an online listing, the 98-seat building, including its fixtures, equipment, and seven-day liquor license, are for sale for $875,000. The two-floor bar is best known for its classic diner fare, handwritten menus, and vintage decor. 300 W. 30th St. 443-869-5864

BEER BULLETIN

Wet City: During Artscape in 2016, brothers PJ and Josh Sullivan introduced the community to Wet City—their Mt. Vernon craft beer bar that has since become known for its signature Scandinavian-inspired wall murals, next-level pub fare, and taps full of experimental brews. Though the owners always wanted to brew their own beer, it took a few years for that dream to come to fruition. Now, the microbrewery is finally functioning and Wet City is releasing its debut beer, Hello, to the public. The flaked hazy IPA, which has a 6.3-percent ABV and features Kveik yeast from Norway, is brewed with a blend of Mosaic, El Dorado, Denali, and Citra hops that give it a tropical flavor. Hello is being brewed exclusively at Wet City and will be available for tap and growler fills at the bar starting Thursday, September 27. 223 W. Chase St. 443-873-6699

Monument City Brewing: Beer lovers should be on the lookout for a new release from Monument City in Highlandtown this weekend. The purple-hued Chrysalis was brewed in collaboration with veteran organic food producer Hex Ferments. Inspired by Hex’s butterfly-lime kombucha, the 3.5-percent gose is brewed with lime and butterfly pea flower, which gives the beer its purple color and tart, refreshing flavor. Cans will be released at Monument City’s taproom this Saturday, September 29 from 12-5 p.m. 1 N. Haven St. 443-529-8131

EPICUREAN EVENTS

9/28: 32nd Annual Maritime Magic
More than 80 restaurants will gather at the Frederick Douglass-Isaac Maritime Park in Fells Point for The Living Classrooms’ annual fundraiser to benefit its education and job-training programs for city youth. Sample eats and drinks from Copper Kitchen, Ouzo Bay, The Brewer’s Art, Sobo Cafe, Vida Taco Bar, Rye Street Tavern, Duck Duck Goose, Old Line Spirits, Key Brewing, Belle Isle Spirits, and more while jamming to 10-piece funk band Aztec Sun and reggae legends The Wailers. 1417 Thames St. 7-11 p.m. $120-130

9/29: Parktoberfest
Now in its third year, this street fest on the 500 block of Park Avenue in Mt. Vernon will feature eats from the stalls inside the Mount Vernon Marketplace (including Cultured, The Local Oyster, Cholitas Tacos, and Mi & Yu Noodle Bar), as well as live music and a lengthy list of local craft vendors. Grab a group to enjoy live music by singer-songwriter Shelby Blondell, gypsy-jazz band Ultrafaux, and rockers Yo No Say while perusing the handmade wares of nearly 30 local crafters. 520 Park Ave. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Free.

9/29: National Coffee Day at Order & Chaos
Get your weekend caffeine fix at this South Baltimore spot, which is offering a selection of specials in honor of National Coffee Day. Take advantage of a free drip coffee with any purchase all day long, as well as complimentary food tastings and samples of the new fall menu—which includes a turmeric pumpkin latte and an espresso enhanced with caramel corn syrup and marshmallow fluff. Additionally, the party will launch the shop’s Creative Cup contest, which asks guests to decorate a blank to-go cup with their own design. The winner will have their artwork featured on the cups for a limited time and receive free drip coffee for a year. 1410 Key Highway. 10-12 p.m.

SHUT (FOR NOW)

Button: The restaurant accompanying Scott Plank’s luxe Swim Club in Canton has officially closed for the season. A post to Button’s social media pages indicates that the spot will be undergoing renovations for the remainder of 2018, and reopen sometime next year. In its short run this past summer, the dockside destination served up grain bowls, wood-fired pizzas, burgers, and seafood entrees crafted by executive chef Allysa Storms, who recently moved on to oversee the kitchen at yet-to-open AJ’s on Hanover in Federal Hill. 2723 Lighthouse Point. 410-387-4377