COMING SOON

The Charmery: Baltimore’s own quirky ice cream shop has already made its mark on the Northern Baltimore neighborhoods—serving scoops at its Hampden flagship, Towson storefront, and massive Medfield production factory inside Union Collective. And now, it’s spreading the love south. The Baltimore Business Journal broke the news this week that husband-and-wife owners David and Laura Alima plan to open a fourth location at 46 E. Cross Street in Federal Hill in the coming months. “The factory only works if it has something to feed,” David said of The Charmery’s expansion, in our profile of the couple last year. Unlike the other shops, the small storefront across from Cross Street Market will feature a walk-up window concept. Signature flavors will include locally inspired favorites like Old Bay Caramel, Maryland Mud, Lemon Stick, and Tell Tale Chocolate.

OPEN

Coelum Cafe, Bar, and Market: This new dining destination in Canton—whose name translates to “sky” or “heaven” in Latin—is fittingly decorated with feather details and lots of lush greenery. Industry veterans Corey Laub and Ryan Thacker opened the restaurant earlier this week in the former home of Gitan Bistro Cru in Canton. The menu pairs batched cocktails and natural wines with seasonal dishes like summer squash risotto, fried green tomatoes, and duck confit. Coelum (pronounced coy-loom) will also offer a retail market stocked with local products like Open Seas Coffee and cupcakes from Slam Bakes.

Ono Poke: Nothing beats a refreshing poke bowl during the dog days of summer. Ono Poke officially opened inside the newly renovated Cross Street Market in Federal Hill last week, offering the authentic Hawaiian delicacy of raw fish topped with sweet and spicy sauces and vegetables. If you still haven’t gotten a chance to check out the upgrades at the market, stop in to try one of Ono’s signature bowls including the “Smooth N Spicy” (ahi tuna, creamy spicy aioli, avocado, cucumber, jalapeno, habanero masago) or the “Lomi Lomi” with salmon and citrus shoyu vinaigrette. Other vendors on deck to open in July include Annoula’s Kitchen, Sobeachy Haitian Cuisine, and a stall slinging Royal Farms chicken.

NEWS

The Bluebird Cocktail Room Turns Two: It’s been two years since Hampden’s literary-themed cocktail haven officially joined the scene. On Sunday, July 7, the bar is celebrating its big birthday accordingly with raffles, discounted drinks, and new menu items. Starting at 12 p.m., Bluebird’s downstairs pub will be offering happy hour specials and half-off its signature Old Fashioneds during brunch. Make your way upstairs when the Cocktail Room opens at 5 p.m. to sample summer sips (new drinks include the watermelon molasses-infused “Waxen Fruit Impends” and vodka-based “Goddess Strikes #2”) and enter into a raffle to win a private cocktail class. Throughout the day, the team will be donating $1 from every cocktail purchased to the nearby Hampden Family Center.

Citron Wins Award of Excellence from Wine Spectator: The wine program at this Pikesville fine-dining den got some national recognition this week when it was listed among the winners of Wine Spectator’s annual Restaurant Awards. Citron was given the Award of Excellence for its well-curated wine list, which features more than 1,700 regional bottles. The restaurant joins the ranks of other previous Baltimore winners including Magdalena, Tagliata, and The Prime Rib.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

TO 7/6: South American Showdown at Bar Vasquez
Speaking of wine, Bar Vasquez in Harbor East is hosting a head-to-head showdown menu as a way to introduce diners to some of South America’s most impressive varieties. The $55 four-course menu features six wine pairings (two for each savory course) ranging from a Mendoza malbec to a classic cabernet franc. Dishes to look out for will include crispy zucchini with caper herb aioli, lobster and corn cakes, wood-grilled Hudson Valley duck breast, and a traditional tres leches cake.

7/6: Independence Weekend Block Party at Fat Tiger
The Fourth of July fireworks will likely all have fizzled out by this weekend, but the bar team behind Fat Tiger and El Tigre at Broadway Market is keeping the party going with this block party from 1-10 p.m. on Saturday. Head to the market’s patio to enjoy an all-American menu of pulled pork, chorizo, beer-can chicken, baked beans, mac and cheese, and jalapeño cornbread paired with icy cocktails made with Baltimore Spirits’ Company gin and amaro.

7/6: Fried Chicken and Champagne at Chez Hugo
It might seem odd, but fried chicken and champagne remains one of the most underrated culinary combinations. For the second year in a row, Chez Hugo is celebrating National Fried Chicken Day by frying up breasts, thighs, drumsticks, and wings and drizzling them in espelette honey. A la carte sides will include buttermilk biscuits, charred kale, barbecue baked beans, and caviar. Specifically for the occasion, bar manager Maximo Guerra has hand-selected four champagne options by the glass, as well as many specialty bubbles by the bottle.

Noticeable changes have taken shape since Caves Valley Partners began its revitalization of the 173-year-old Cross Street Market in Federal Hill last year. Most recently, retro signage that harkens back to the market’s original rebuild—after a fire destroyed it in 1951—went up around the exterior.

While the neon logos are a reminder of its storied history, the renovated interior will bring the market into the present with a diverse lineup that reflects the breadth of Baltimore’s current dining landscape.

“As a team, it was important for us to keep it Baltimore-centric,” says Nick Alevrogiannis of Cana Development, which handles leasing for Cross Street Market. “We wanted authentic and artisan, and we’re seeing a pretty big swing of that growing here.”

By keeping an eye out for unique concepts at local pop-ups and farmers’ markets, the firm was able to bring on vendors that span multiple different cultures and cuisines, many of which are minority and female-owned and operated.

According to the Project for Public Spaces, a national nonprofit dedicated to helping communities sustain public properties, public markets are a great entryway for chefs and restaurateurs—especially minorities, immigrants, and women—to grow their businesses.

“A lot of small businesses want to be able to grow, but the capital required and the vetting process from landlords to get your own brick-and-mortar is typically really expensive, and the liability is huge,” Alevrogiannis says. “But with a market, capital requirement is significantly less to get in, which promotes small businesses from the beginning.”

When it reopens this spring, a number of veterans that operated in the market pre-construction (think Fenwick’s Choice Meats, Steve’s Lunch, and The Sweet Shoppe) will be joined by a new class of budding businesses. There will be Baltimore spinoffs including Burger Bar from the team at Southside Diner in Riverside, Annoula’s Kitchen from the owners of Sobo Cafe across the street, Cans Filling Station from the operator of Taps Filling Station at Mount Vernon Marketplace, and a new Ceremony Coffee location.

But diners will also be able to expand their knowledge of global cuisine with Hawaiian grinds from Ono Poké, Mexican eats from Taco Love Grill, Southeast Asian dishes from Rice Crook, Vietnamese fare from Phubs, and authentic Haitian cuisine from Sobeachy—a JFX farmers’ market favorite founded by husband-and-wife duo Chanel and Leo Fleurimond.

“It’s really important to have all of those different flavors,” Chanel says. “When people think of Caribbean food, they automatically think of Jamaican food. So for us, it’s great that we now have an opportunity to be there alongside every other diverse, ethnic option and bring a different Caribbean island to Baltimore.”

The owners are looking forward to introducing diners to their eclectic blend of African and French flavors, which is showcased in stewed meats, chicken wings, stuffed plantain cups, “Cod Yatti” sandwiches (deep-fried cod on a cocoa bread bun with mango sauce), and “Pati Kode,” a veggie or meat-filled turnover similar to a fried empanada. Sobeachy will also be able to serve its fresh juices and alcoholic Island drinks in its new stall.

Other new vendors are excited about the move, even if they’ve been around for a while. Take brothers Chuong and Paul Nguyen, who established their Vietnamese soup and sub shop Phubs in Hanover five years ago, but are enthusiastic about the benefits of joining a communal market.

“Vietnamese food in general is getting more popular, but it’s still not super mainstream,” says Chuong. “With the market being so diverse, it requires people to come in with an open mind. Those are the type of customers we want.”

Phubs will continue to offer its signature banh-mi sandwiches and pho with all the fixins, but the owners are adding a few new twists that cater to the market’s clientele. Specifically, the eatery will offer its bone broth in coffee-sized cups for diners in need of a hangover cure or quick energy boost.

“We simmer the bones for 24 hours because that’s how our parents did it growing up,” says Chuong, a Columbia native. “We ate pho weekly, and always felt great the next day. But it’s really all about the broth and making it the right way. We didn’t want to get away from that.”

In addition to providing that authenticity, vendors agree that the market environment fosters a more personal relationship between makers and customers. In the future, organizers hope to strengthen the community focus by activating the space with more startups (a new wave will join the scene summer 2019) and launching an outdoor farmers’ market in April.

“To me, what sets a market apart from a food court is that it’s interactive and engaged,” Alevrogiannis says. “You have to tell that story. Just having good food and good service isn’t working anymore.”