Customers will also be able to buy
eggs, milk, bread, milled flours, grits, and other goods from local
purveyors. “The idea of the butcher shop was for it to be a shopping
experience,” said George Marsh, Parts & Labor’s executive chef and head
butcher. “We wanted to have things for the neighbors.”

George, pictured third from left with
his team of butchers above, set up the shop with an open window to the kitchen. “We
wanted it to be communal between the butcher and the people if they had
questions,” he said yesterday as the store was prepping for its opening. (The
cured boar’s head in the butchers’ photo was en route to becoming a steaming
pot of chili today.)

The attached restaurant area with
communal seating and tables with church pews is scheduled to open April 24. The
focus is on hearth cooking, pictured, in cast-iron pots, featuring steaks, pork
chops, and many other items.

Beer is a huge part of the bar
program with about 18 brews on tap and a growler station. Kegged wines and
local ciders will also be available.

The refurbished space in an old car-repair-and-tire
shop at 2600 N. Howard St. is co-owned by James Beard finalist Spike Gjerde and
his wife Amy, who also operate Woodberry Kitchen, Artifact Coffee, and Shoo-Fly
Diner.

In the retail shop, carryout sandwiches
will be available during the day in addition to various sausages, cheese, and
pâtés. Jars of preserved vegetables processed through Woodberry Kitchen are on the
shelves as well as cookbooks, knives, cutting boards, and butcher’s aprons.

You definitely want to visit this
one-of-a-kind shop soon.

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Dinner will be served at first, but eventually, the restaurant will be open for lunch, too.

I
caught up this afternoon with owner Ted Bauer, who also operates The
Oregon Grill in Hunt Valley. “We wanted to start out very slow until we
got to know the building a bit,” he said. “People have been very excited
about it.”

For the past three weeks, the historic restaurant,
which has undergone renovations, has been open on Fridays and Saturdays
to faithful fans, who were curious to check out the updates. The
restaurant closed in late 2010 when Ted acquired the property from Bud
Hatfield and his family, who had run the popular establishment since the
1920s. At one time, it was a popular gathering place for the
horse-country crowd.

Currently, the restaurant’s new kitchen,
under chef Tom Hawkins, an Oregon Grille sous chef, is serving
appetizers like oysters and steamed shrimp, a selection of soups and
salads, sandwiches including a 10-ounce burger and shrimp salad, and a
few larger plates featuring mahi mahi and steak.

Before the restaurant closed, the building, pictured,
near the upscale Green Spring Station mall, was showing its age. The
food was old-fashioned (lobster Newburg, hot turkey sandwiches with
gravy), but the mint juleps were great.

After Ted was granted a
liquor license in 2010, the old restaurant, officially in Lutherville,
remained vacant as the restaurateur sought various approvals for
updating the premises.

Under his management—he started the Mt.
Washington Tavern in 1979 before opening The Oregon Grille—the Valley
Inn should be ready to take on this century.

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