A quick look at Oleum’s menu and you might not realize you’re at a vegan restaurant: There are no Impossible burgers or seitan bowls or sandwiches with wacky trademarked names.

Instead, there’s an extensive list of creative, compelling, admirably constructed dishes highlighting spices and international flavors, like charred red-pepper risotto with Aleppo eggplant and smoked paprika; ricotta ravioli sauced with romesco; and pizzas topped with harissa-marinated mushrooms, lacinato kale, tahini and hummus, and roasted artichokes.

A closer read, however, makes clear that everything here—including a variety of cheeses, sausages, and salumi—is made entirely with plants.

Oleum is currently one of the few dedicated vegan restaurants in Baltimore, certainly of this caliber and ambition, especially since troubled celebrity chef Matthew Kenney shuttered Liora two years ago. Open since June in the building that previously housed Bondhouse Kitchen, Oleum had both a circuitous and accelerated journey to its Fells Point corner rowhouse.

Seven years ago, Oleum’s chef-owner, Alisha Adibe, was a personal trainer who wasn’t vegan, didn’t really cook, and, unless you count a long-ago stint at an Applebee’s in her hometown of Leavenworth, Kansas, hadn’t worked in a restaurant kitchen. When her doctor suggested that she go vegan to address some health issues, her first thought was, “That’s crazy.” Her second thought was, “I’m going to show him.”

So she not only became vegan, but started cooking all her own food from scratch. This was not just because she’s admittedly competitive, but because at the time she and her husband, Gabriel, were stationed in San Diego. Soon she was cooking not only for herself and her husband, but for his co-workers and her clients. Over the next few years, the couple moved to Arizona, back to San Diego, and then to Okinawa, Japan, where, again, she found a demand for her cooking, especially when the pandemic hit. Soon she had seven employees in her home kitchen, all of whom were military spouses.

“That all happened really fast, and I enjoyed it,” she says one morning, sitting at the long bar in Oleum’s cozy dining room. “But I did not enjoy the dishes, because we still didn’t have a commercial dishwasher. My staff would leave and I’d just stay there and wash dishes for hours.”

When her husband was transferred to Maryland, where he has family, Adibe decided to find a bigger space—and a dishwasher. “I was like, well, let’s see what I need to do to open a restaurant, to see if people want my food outside of a little island.”

First, in the spring of 2024, she opened a ghost kitchen in Little Italy, then, when demand grew, a full-fledged restaurant in Harborplace. Less than a year later, as demand continued to increase, she moved to Fells Point. (Adibe picked the restaurant’s name after doing a Google-translate search for “olive oil”; oleum is Latin for oil.)

Early on a weekday evening, only six weeks after she opened, the 64-seat place is packed, the clientele is diverse—young and old, vegan and not—the servers are deftly managing the crowd, and Adibe is roaming the floor, chatting with diners. Many tables have pizzas, made with flour sourced from Italy, which arrive on round metal trays, beautifully appointed with a variety of vegan cheeses, including a special blend made in-house, as well as an array of colorful vegetables, spices, fresh herbs, and plant based meats.

The Gabriel, named for Adibe’s husband, has a rich pesto sauce under generous layers of cheeses, vegan Italian sausage, red onions, and Calabrian chiles. A dish of imported Italian bucatini comes threaded around sauteed mushrooms in a marvelously creamy sauce of white wine, thyme, soy cream, Parmesan, and white miso—a nod to Adibe’s time in Japan. One of the seasonal salads, the Salatat Marakech is a towering marvel—both gorgeous and deeply flavorful—built from greens, avocado, fennel, watermelon radish, snap peas, and mint, all doused in a preserved-lemon vinaigrette and sprinkled with pistachios.

Happily—and fittingly for a restaurant that caters to a clientele wishing to avoid ingredients some consider unhealthful—the cocktail menu has as many drinks made alcohol-free as with booze, and they’re as pretty and enticing as the food.

And then there are the desserts: a towering slice of carrot cake, tiramisu made with tofu mascarpone, sticky toffee pudding, chocolate-chip cookies. Made to-order (chocolate chunks, coconut yogurt) and thus arriving warm and gooey from the oven, they’re a perfect end to a generous meal.

“When I went vegan,” says Adibe, “I was like, ‘I have to learn how to make chocolate chip cookies, because I’m going to miss them.’”

She didn’t have to go without and, thankfully, neither do we.

OLEUM: 701 S. Bond St., 410-231-3102. HOURS: Tues.-Thurs. 11 a.m.-3 p.m., 4-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat. 1 a.m.-3 p.m., 4-11 p.m.; Sun. 1 a.m.-3 p.m., 4-9 p.m. PRICES: Appetizers: $8-30; pizzas, $16-28; mains: $14-32; desserts, $7-23. AMBIANCE: Sophisticated rowhome.

In 2020, with the pandemic in full swing, Monica Lapenta, executive director of the Italian Cultural Center of Maryland, wanted to start a nonprofit organization that would create a training program for Baltimore youth and teach them about nutrition. Lapenta, who was born in Naples, Italy, came up with the idea of making vegan pasta. She decided to call her nonprofit B-More Pasta.

“Our pasta is one of the only fresh vegan pastas out there,” says Lapenta. “It’s just flour and water. The flour is either semolina from Italy or rye grain from Baltimore County.”

The pasta incorporates a range of superfood ingredients such as beet root, spirulina, and turmeric.

“Young people think of pasta as macaroni and cheese or spaghetti and meatballs,” says Lapenta. “This is new for them. Italian pasta is produced differently than in the U.S., where the pasta is enriched. The large manufacturing of pasta is like a glue pasta. It’s complicated for the body to digest.”

Though pasta and carbs in general often get a bad rap, B-More Pasta, available at Remington’s Made In Baltimore, Pigtown’s Culinary Architecture, and online, sets itself apart from brands that are mass-produced.

“Our pasta is digestible and has perfect nutritional value when you mix it with vegetables,” she says. “It’s not just a great product, pasta is a tool to learn about nutrition.”

B-More Pasta serves another purpose, as well. The revenue from retail sales goes toward feeding families in need, not just pasta but other items, too.

“We serve roughly 3,000 meals a week,” says Lapenta. “It’s wonderful that we can create jobs in Baltimore—and the fact that we are making a product close to my heritage makes it even better.”

If the idea of eating vegan cuisine feels like punishment for something you did wrong in a past life, then you’ve never been to Liora.

The restaurant, inside the Inner Harbor’s new chichi high-rise condo, 414 Light Street, is Baltimore’s first fine-dining all-vegan restaurant. Owner Matthew Kenney has plant-based restaurants around the world—Dubai, Sydney, São Paolo—but thanks to a friendship with Stephen Gorn, the developer behind the condo complex, he was lured to fill a niche in Charm City.

Former Points South Latin Kitchen owner Bryson Keens was brought on as the restaurant’s general manager and Natalie Carter from The Great Sage in Clarksville is overseeing the kitchen.

“Vegans can go to Land of Kush, Gangster Vegan,” says Keens, “but for special occasions there isn’t anything where the whole menu is plant-based.”

At Liora, say sayonara to steak and chicken, and hello to barbecued beets. Whatever you order, you’ll never miss the meat (or any animal products for that matter). The name Liora means light in Hebrew—also a nod to the restaurant’s address—but a place where the “chevre” on the beautifully rendered “cheese” platter is made from a tasty blend of cashews, nutritional yeast, and herbs, is nothing if not enlightened.

“We are trying to show that the food is approachable,” explains Keens. “You can order things that are far from pedestrian, but you understand what they are—a Caesar salad, heirloom tomato lasagna. We show you foods similar to what you already know but without the animal-based nature to them.”

Since its summer opening, the restaurant has made some quick converts.

“We’ve had great support from our vegan community,” says Keens, “but we’re also getting a mix of people who are ‘vegan curious’ and vegan people bringing their non-vegan friends.”

Roasted Cauliflower Panisse Cake from Preserve

“The original play was on a French panisse cake,” says Preserve chef Brian Cieslak of this recipe. “It shows that vegetables don’t have to be one-dimensional.” To pretty up the plate (pictured above), Cieslak suggests dotting the plate with miso paste, a shower of parsley and scallions, plus pickled cauliflower stems.

INGREDIENTS
1 pound cauliflower
1⁄2 cup white onion, diced
2 cups chickpea flour
5 cups water
5 garlic cloves
11⁄2 tablespoons salt
1⁄4 cup, plus 1 tablespoon EVOO
11⁄2 tablespoons lemon juice
1⁄4 teaspoon ground black pepper
1⁄2 teaspoon onion powder

DIRECTIONS
1. Roast cauliflower in oven set at 350 Fahrenheit. Roast until golden.
2. Set aside onion, and in a blender (in batches if necessary) blend all remaining ingredients. Reserve.
3. Spray a 9.5” x 13” pan with oil.
4. In a pot that preferably has a wider bottom that can hold at least 4 quarts, sweat onion with 1 tbsp. oil.
5. Add chickpea our/water mixture.
6. While keeping on medium/ medium-high heat, continue to whisk and boil until mixture becomes extremely thick (up to 10 minutes).
7. Once firm, fold in cauliflower.
8. Pour in greased pan. Allow to completely cool in fridge.
9. When cool, griddle in a pan on low heat until golden.
Serves 4. 

For the garlic confit sauce: In a small sauce pot add 1⁄2 cup garlic cloves and 1⁄2 cup neutral oil. Place on low flame. Heat slowly for two hours and cook garlic until golden. Cool. For sauce, blanch 2 cups cauliflower florets in salted water. Cook until very tender, then toss in ice bath. Place cauliflower in a blender, blend until nearly puréed. Emulsify in garlic confit cloves and oil. Season to taste.

 

Beet Terrine from The Corner Pantry

If you’re still scarred by those childhood beets that came from a can, this stunner from chef Neill Howell at The Corner Pantry is a surefire way to reimagine the root vegetable. “I wanted to create a fun, vegetable-centric dish that isn’t a salad,” says Howell. “Don’t rush the chilling process,” he adds. “It needs time to chill and firm up.”

Throughout the past few years, the brick exterior of the shop stationed at the corner of West 34th Street and Chestnut Avenue in Hampden has boasted many different colorful murals. Locals might remember the red tricycle that graced the facade when it operated as kid-friendly Play Cafe, or the most recent funky wall design that welcomed neighbors into New York City-style bodega Prime Corner.

Now, the entrance is decorated with hand-painted trees and vines that represent the ethos of Treehouse Cafe and Juice Bar—a new holistic concept that features an entirely gluten-free menu of juices, smoothies, soups, salads, wraps, and pizzas.

“What we’ve seen more than anything else is how much the neighborhood wants something to succeed in the space,” says Kirsten LaPointe, a fitness instructor at Movement Lab in Remington who co-owns Treehouse with fellow yoga teacher Shariff Roberts. “Everyone has come by and been so kind and supportive. Even the people who came in and weren’t so sure they wanted only healthy choices were willing to roll with them.”

As a certified nutritionist, Roberts had always wanted to open his own juice bar. And LaPointe, who worked as an art teacher before joining the local fitness scene, had long envisioned opening a bed-and-breakfast where she grew her own ingredients. Together, they came up with a menu that fuses the two ideas while incorporating superfoods—including turmeric, flax seeds, cacao, and MCT oils—that are medicinal to the body.

“Both of us are coming from the same angle of nurturing people,” LaPointe says. “We want our customers to feel like they’re having a treat, even though it’s all healthy.”

A few of LaPointe’s favorite dishes include the gluten-free pizzas made with vegan cheese, savory hand pies that resemble empanadas, a vegan charcuterie board highlighting smoked hummus and caper berries, and a roasted root salad topped with orange and purple sweet potatoes.

After trying to make the concept work in another space for a number of months, the owners switched gears when they learned that the former Prime Corner store was available.

“Oddly enough, all of the equipment that I had collected for the other location fit into this space just like a puzzle,” LaPointe says. “I got it all in, and I couldn’t even stick a nickel in between two things.”

Once all of the equipment was in place, the team got to work decorating the 50-seat cafe with steel chairs, reclaimed furniture from Second Chance, and new countertops made with live wood collected by local arborists.

“That’s what makes it Treehouse,” LaPointe says, mentioning that she hopes to add ficus and fairy lights soon. “Our name originally came from the beautiful yard and tree at the first location we attempted, but I think it also works here because it hints at the story that everything is made of fruits and vegetables. We’re also using sustainable packaging.”

Though the space is currently operating in soft-opening mode, an official grand opening party is scheduled for Wednesday, October 30 from 5-9 p.m. The pre-Halloween bash will feature free wine and card readings by Bonnie Tarantino.

Overall, LaPointe says she’s looking forward to getting to know the neighborhood—especially those who might be skeptical about making a healthy lifestyle change.

“The joy I get is when someone feels better because of something that I served them,” she says. “What I’ve been saying is, ‘It’s our party and everyone is invited.’”

Oddly enough, Sevi Kay’s interest in natural bodycare started with her dog. It was around 1997 when Kay’s beloved German Shepherd, Mundo, was overcome by severe allergies. The failure of prescription creams to heal Mundo led Kay to try herbal remedies with ingredients found in her own kitchen pantry. And it worked! Mundo’s itching and redness disappeared.

By 1999, Kay launched her own business selling natural, handmade pet-care products. But her customers were so impressed, they began wanting products for themselves. “They were asking, ‘can you make this into a lip balm—can you do this and that,’ so I took the same formulas and made them for people,” Kay says.

Today, she owns and operates the Baltimore-ebased body care brand sevi: eco vegan apothecary with her husband, Prayas Chaudhary, pictured. “I choose ingredients that, like my food, are as whole as possible,” she says.

All of their products are formulated with locally grown herbs and botanicals and vegan waxes. With conditioner made with pumpkin seed, moisturizer mixed from chia seed oil, and body wash blended with olives and mandarin orange, sevi’s products take on the literal meaning of, “You are what you eat.” And Kay is living proof that plant-based products do work.

Diagnosed with an auto-immune disorder and rosacea, Kay tests the formulas on herself to ensure efficacy. But she cautions that, unlike most trends, results aren’t instantaneous. “You won’t immediately get rid of your acne, but over time, you’ll realize, ‘I don’t have to wear makeup!’”

She also notes that finding the right products can take some self-education. Kay warns that synthetic ingredients and dangerously high concentrations of essential oils can end up hurting more than helping.

“The benefits are long term,” she says, adding that whole, natural ingredients offer better, longer-lasting results. After 20 years in the business, Kay is thrilled that the natural movement has caught on. “It’ll give you the best chance to stay healthy and vibrant,” she says

Penny Seabolt was overweight, the mother of twins, divorced, and mourning the loss of her father when she decided to change her life. Now, almost 15 years later, she opened a restaurant, Lyfe Café at The Shops at Kenilworth in Towson, that reflects the positive changes she made. Along the way, Seabolt became a nutritionist, a personal trainer, and a professional body builder. She recently stopped competing to focus on her new business.

Seabolt, who grew up and still lives in Lutherville, chose the location because she wanted to be close to the home she shares with her husband and Lyfe co-owner Andrew Seabolt and her now teenaged twins, Madison and Thomas Smith. “It’s my community,” she says.

At Lyfe, diners will find an attractive, industrialized space with warm touches such as a comfy peach-hued sofa, earth-tone tables, greenery, and a smiling Buddha. You place an order at the counter, grab a seat, and wait for your meal. It’s not fast food, so it can take a few extra minutes to be delivered to you.

Sauces and baked goods are made fresh by chefs who follow Seabolt’s recipes for all types of diets. “I wanted a place where carnivores, vegetarians, and vegans could eat,” she says.

I couldn’t have been happier to find out that the cafe serves breakfast all day. The breakfast burrito was an afternoon treat. I chose a whole-wheat tortilla and grilled chicken rolled into a plump tube with cooked egg whites, cheddar cheese, avocado slices, black bean pico de gallo, and turkey bacon. The varied textures and flavors melded deliciously. The accompanying fruit bowl with melon, pineapple, and grapes complemented the savory wrap.

There’s a help-yourself cold case filled with beverages like Wild Kombucha in various flavors, Vitamin Water, and Perrier. I opted for a freshly made cold-pressed juice called Sunrise that blazed with color and flavor from its apple, strawberry, and grapefruit components.

On another visit, I tried a steak burger with Parmesan cheese, romaine lettuce, tomato, and onion on an artisan roll. It was juicy and filling, especially with a side dish of cucumber-tomato salad lightly slicked with balsamic vinaigrette.

I also tucked into a spicy Thai bowl with tri-color quinoa. The peanut sauce had a slight zing—just enough to tingle your taste buds, not set them on fire. The viscous topping brightened a gorgeous pile of chicken, steak, Portobello mushrooms, broccoli, cauliflower, asparagus, and chopped peanuts. The Harbor Port salmon bowl is another popular item, Seabolt says, with grilled salmon, an assortment of vegetables, and mango salsa. Indulge in a peanut butter cookie, made with coconut sugar, to end on a sweet note.

The portions are so generous that you’ll likely have leftovers. I did. That makes the prices—$15.99 for a burger, $14.99 for steak and eggs, $13.99 for a chopped salad—easi- er to swallow. Seabolt is already looking to- ward a future of more restaurants. “I have really big plans,” she says. “I want people to know my name.”

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›› Lyfe Cafe
800 Kenilworth Drive, The Shops at Kenilworth, Towson, 410-842-1050. Mon.-Thurs. 11 a.m.-7 p.m.: Fri.-Sat. 10 a.m.-7 p.m. Sun. 10a.m.-5 p.m.

Now that spring has officially sprung in Baltimore, people are focusing more on ways to “green” their lives. We’ve seen locals honing in on one such topic—increased plant-based consumption. Over the past few years, we’ve seen a rise in vegan and vegetarian menu items popping up across city and region. From Maryland Vegan Restaurant Week to Baltimore Vegan Drinks happy hours, diners are embracing plant-based meals and restaurants are working to provide better options.

According to a 2018 study, avoiding meat and dairy products could be one of the most impactful ways to reduce your environmental impact. Earlier this year, Maryland-based grocery chain Giant Food created a podcast called “Nutrition Made Easy” which highlights dietitians, nutritionists and other experts to help answer customer questions and provide useful tips for a healthy lifestyle. In its most recent episode, Elizabeth Dahl, a professor of chemistry at Loyola University Maryland and the founder of the Baltimore Environmental Film Series, discusses ways we can make sustainable food choices, such as plant-based eating.

“When we think about nature, because it’s a circular system, it has no useless byproducts,” says Dahl. “It’s really important that when we’re thinking about how we’re interacting with the environment that we’re thinking about how we can better interact in a way that’s going to keep nature circular . . . When you eat lower on the food chain, it’s better for the environment.”

And it’s not just in Baltimore. Over the past 10 years, there have been impressive increases in Google searches for “plant-based diet.” According to online food delivery marketplace GrubHub, plant-based foods were the greatest rising trend in 2018 for their 16 million users. The platform’s data revealed that red meat was completely missing from their top 10 ordered foods (which was led by bean burritos). GrubHub also saw a rise in plant-based breakfast items such as peanut butter acaí bowls (up 350 percent) and detox juices (up 193 percent).

Daniela Troia, executive chef and founder of local hotspots Zia’s Cafe and Plantbar, credits the rise in plant-based eating to social media. “Wellness is the new black,” she says. “More people are taking an interest in knowing where their food comes from and how it’s produced. We have more accessible information, including more health-based books, informative podcasts and inspiring Instagram accounts.” The internet has made it incredibly easy to spread information, taking plants from a trend on the fringe to a mainstream movement. Most users cannot open Instagram without seeing the latest green juice or acaí bowl—or encouragement from queen Bey.

But don’t dismiss this movement as a ploy to look cool for followers. People are also becoming more aware of the health benefits and impacts of eating more fruits and vegetables. Famous athletes are giving plants a new face, sharing how their all-natural diets and non-processed choices affect their performance and recovery. Famed NFL quarterback Tom Brady, global tennis pro Venus Williams, and NBA All-Star Kyrie Irving have all become well-known for their plant-based diets. “I have more endurance and I’ve noticed that I can recover faster,” says local vegan runner Kelsey Johnston. “I’m way more mindful of what I eat for fuel.”

In 2018, Neilsen reported that plant-based foods sales grew by 20 percent in just 52 weeks, naming nondairy milk as the largest growing category. Locally, there has certainly been a rise in non-dairy milks, which in turn means you can get your plant fix at places like and Bmore Licks, which now offers vegan and non-dairy ice cream flavors. Restauranteurs are getting better at subtly adding the plants, without hiding the benefits. Troia says, at Plantbar, the X Factor smoothie is their top ordered item, which tastes overwhelmingly like almond butter and cacao and is actually formulated for performance with avocado, medicinal mushrooms, and monk fruit.

“I honestly think Baltimore is one of the best cities to be vegan,” Johnston says. “Baltimore Drinks was a pioneering force for the network, but so many neighborhoods are now veg-friendly—almost all of Hampden is. Harmony Bakery, Golden West, Paulie Gee’s, Holy Frijoles, and even Blue Pit BBQ all have options for me.”

We’ve seen openings of multiple plant-based dining spots across the region—and expecting even more in 2019. Plantbar just opened a third location in Brewers Hill, Pure Raw Juice is opening two new locations in the Rotunda and Locust Point and Plant Food + Wine will open this summer downtown.

More and more, people who identify as vegan, vegetarian, or none of the above are choosing to incorporate plant-based meals into their diets. Whether to accommodate special dietary requirements, address health conditions or just eat smarter, the movement is growing and Baltimore is responding.

Although the term veganism was first coined in 1944, its place in the recent cultural zeitgeist has largely been relegated to that one-month phase your worst friend went through three years ago and hasn’t stopped talking—bragging?—about since. Of course, veganism is an honorable commitment with a raft of documented health and environmental benefits, but it’s hard to imagine life without cheeseburgers. In the court of public opinion, the vegan lifestyle has always seemed undeniably noble, but carried the weight of certain stigmas.

This is changing.

For the first time ever, Maryland Vegan Restaurant Week will demonstrate that vegan food can be delicious and satisfying. From February 8 to the 18, more than 30 restaurants in Baltimore and the surrounding areas will offer special vegan menus (while Charm City has been celebrating a veganism week for the past three years, this is the first time the rest of the state is getting in on the fun). Venerable omnivorous—that’s vegan-speak for “non-vegan”—institutions such as Miss Shirley’s, R. House, and Gertrude’s will try their hand at plant-based cuisine, demonstrating how this event has permeated the mainstream and is working to reshape it.

“When I go out with my husband or my daughter, we’d like to see more on the menu than just a salad,” said Naijha Wright-Brown, the event’s co-founder and owner of The Land of Kush, a vegan soul-food restaurant in Mt. Vernon. “Part of this event is showing how creative you can be with vegan dishes.”

So, where should a curious meat-lover start on their journey to vegan-dom?

“Start with sweets, something you know you like,” advised Wright-Brown, “and the only difference you’ll notice is that you feel better afterwards.”

Luckily, there are plenty of places to sample your first vegan brownie, since Baltimore’s vegan scene is by no means a small niche. While veganism has gained traction all over the country, it has especially resonated in Baltimore.

“When I moved here over the summer, one of the first things I noticed was the number and, also, the quality of vegan restaurants” said Erin Johnson, a social media influencer who practices a vegan lifestyle. “As a transplant from the Bay Area, I just feel like, ‘Why doesn’t California have this?’”

Surprisingly, Baltimore is showing up the Bay Area in this department (as they did in Super Bowl XLVII). Beyond showcasing the endless possibilities of plant-based food, Vegan Restaurant Week is a celebration of the city itself and the people who live in it. The event is about more than new menu items—it is about fostering belonging.

“Food is about community,” said Samantha Claassen, the event’s co-founder and the owner of Golden West Cafe, a vegan-friendly southwestern restaurant in Hampden, “but it can be very challenging to find a vegan meal when you’re around other [non-vegan] people. We wanted to create a space where people could come together.”

During the themed week, this camaraderie will manifest itself through partnerships with organizations such as Vegan Drinks (a national vegan happy hour community) and No Meat Athlete (a vegan running club) to host a happy hour, run, and karaoke night, which, presumably, is no different than standard karaoke, save for a hard ban on Webstar and Young B’s 2006 classic “Chicken Noodle Soup.”

“Being a vegan can be very socially isolating,” said Rissa Miller, the founder of the Baltimore chapter of Vegan Drinks, “so, with Vegan Drinks, I wanted people to not only support plant-based restaurants and restaurateurs, but also each other.”

Baltimore’s vegan scene is also united by a singularity of purpose: to make the world a better place. According to a report by the United Nations, farmed livestock is responsible for over 14 percent of all greenhouse gas emissions; the polar ice caps are melting one porterhouse at a time. This fact is not lost on Baltimore vegans.

“I think part of the reason that veganism has caught on in Baltimore is that we’re on the coast,” said Elena Johnson (no relation to Erin), the owner and chef of the French-inspired vegan spot L’Eau de Vie Organic Brasserie in Fells Point. “We know what’s happening and what’s going to happen.”

Similarly, Wright-Brown noted that veganism is the natural result of Baltimore’s fierce civic pride. “Baltimore has a large population of activists and advocates who have introduced people to the idea that being vegan can save your body, save the planet, and save the animals,” she said. “Climate change is happening and people are getting educated and people love their city so they’re passionate about what they do.”

All sizzle, no steak never tasted so good.

There’s nothing more American than a classic hot dog with zigzags of mustard and ketchup. But, in a time when diners are becoming more conscious about what they’re putting into their bodies, franks are losing their luster.

“Every time we ask someone why they don’t eat hot dogs, they say, ‘Because I don’t know what’s in them,’” says LaShauna Jones, owner of local hot dog pop-up The Sporty Dog. “We started thinking a lot about how to remove that. We want people to know exactly what’s in them.”

In an effort to combat the hot dog stigma, Jones—along with her 25-year-old daughter, Daejonne Bennett—started their health-conscious food pop-up in the spring of 2017. The Sporty Dog uses all-natural, locally sourced products, including beef from Liberty Delight Farms in Reisterstown, to create unique franks topped with everything from strawberries and arugula to pineapple and caramelized onions.

“Yes, we put fruit on a hot dog—that’s just my brain being over the top,” Jones says. “No one would imagine that strawberries would pair so well with beef, but it’s ridiculously good.”

Jones previously worked as a government contractor for more than 20 years. When her contract came to an end in 2017, she decided to make the leap to start the business with her daughter, who had been pursuing a career in the culinary world.

“I was like, ‘Let’s do hot dogs, that’s gotta be easy, right?’ Jones says with a laugh. “Sometimes I’m a little more ambitious than I need to be.”

But the duo’s ambition turned out to be well worth it. They began selling their creations at the Greenmount West farmers’ market last season—where The Sporty Dog quickly became an anchor—and have been popping up at various community events around town ever since.

“A lot of people who aren’t from Baltimore don’t realize how socially engaging we are as a community,” Jones says. “We love social outings, grabbing a beer, and spending time with folks. We’ve evolved from people sitting on their stoops and conversing with neighbors to now having these very crafty community events. It’s a great way to bring the city together around food.”

Aside from the “Strawberry Delight” with feta and arugula, menu highlights include the “Pineapple Express” with grilled carrots and B’More Saucy Bayside Pepper sauce, and the “Ravens Dog” topped with a red cabbage curry slaw—an ode to the duo’s passion for sports and the concept’s name.

Another draw for customers has been the vegan dogs, which Jones and Bennett hand-form using white beans, blue potatoes, gluten, and signature spices. They then steam the cylinders and top them with fruits and vegetables from area farms, which diners are able to customize themselves.

“It gives people a chance to go somewhere beyond their boundaries,” Jones says. “People are open to trying pineapple on a hot dog, and that just shows you how bold a city like Baltimore can be.”

Jones is looking forward to expanding the concept by applying to more farmers’ markets, collaborating with local breweries (“Beer and a hot dog is such a no-brainer”), and, hopefully, opening a brick-and-mortar space in 2019. She is also eager to further explore the healthy side of the local food industry, starting with a pop-up at the In Good Health Wellness Expo in Harbor East on Saturday, November 17.

“Just from being in this industry, I’m learning how much people love their food,” she says. “Some might not think it’s a big deal in Baltimore, but healthy food is a big deal here.”

Time was, the dining-out options for vegetarians were pretty bleak, with steamed rabbit food, tasteless tempeh and tofu, and blah, uninspired salads sprinkled with wheat germ as practically the only options. But these days, it’s never been easier to follow a plant-based diet that would make even author Michael Pollan (who famously wrote, “Eat food. Not too much. Mostly plants.”) proud. As veggie-centric meals move more into the mainstream, the options—from sushi rolls to noodle bowls to quiches and tarts—are better than ever in Baltimore, whether a spot is 100 percent vegetarian, vegan, or just vegetable-welcoming.

“Maryland is known for having amazing seafood,” says Stall 11 co-owner Melanie Molinaro, “but what people don’t know is that we also have great produce farms. Restaurants seem to be putting in the effort these days.” “There’s nothing worse than going out to eat with a bunch of friends when you’re a vegetarian and everyone can eat but you,” she continues. “What happens when you take away the protein from a plate? You can’t just have mashed potatoes and green beans. Restaurants are getting way more creative about making it more of a meal.” What follows are our picks for the best vegetarian restaurants and offerings in town.

The Big Bean T.H.E.O.R.Y
At the Big Bean T.H.E.O.R.Y, owner Eula McDowell takes a plant-lover’s approach to satisfying soul food. As the name implies, protein-packed beans play a starring role in vegan burgers (black beans, lentils, and falafel), house-made stews, and even luscious, legume-based desserts. Veg Out: The soups taste like they’re straight out of your grandmother’s kitchen. Start with the gumbo—a spicy-smoky medley of lentils, okra, tomato, and corn—and end with the Mean Jean Bean Burger, bursting with beets, swiped with special sauce, and served on a pumpernickel roll. Table Tip: Grab a high-top at the window and watch the street go by. Mount Vernon Marketplace, 520 Park Ave., 443-955-1186

Encantada
Almost half the menu is vegetarian/vegan at this fanciful spot inside the American Visionary Art Museum. And while there are plenty of non-veg options here, should your carnivore companions decide to join you on your veg journey, we promise they’ll never miss the meat. For instance, it’s hard to call it anything but kitchen alchemy when presented with the deviled turnips—the root vegetable is hollowed out and filled with puréed chickpeas mixed with smoked paprika. (In a blind taste test, you’ll swear you’re eating an actual deviled egg.) Similarly magical is the portabello mushroom with fontina on a brioche bun. And no matter what else is happening in your life, say yes to every single sweet potato waffle fry on your plate. Veg Out: The Nashville cauliflower tossed in a spicy hot sauce looks like Buffalo wings but boasts its own flavor profile. We fought over the very last florets. Table Tip: Order a few shots of apple-beet and carrot-ginger juices while sitting outside and toasting to Vollis Simpson’s whirligig. 800 Key Hwy., 410-752-1000

The Flying Avocado Cafe

While The Flying Avocado sounds like something out of a futuristic farming flick, it is, in fact, an adorable sandwich shop that’s both vegan and vegetarian friendly. Avocados find their way into many of the menu items, including the powerhouse wrap, black bean burger, and avocado-and-tofu wrap, though we also love the colorful raw rainbow salad with field greens, mandarin oranges, honey-coated walnuts, cranberries, and flaxseed, as well as vegetarian nachos topped with vegan chili. Veg Out: Put some South in your mouth with the Southwestern wedge salad garnished with house-made pico de gallo. Table Tip: Visit the adjoining homeopathic pharmacy for some unique finds. 10210 S. Dolfield Road, Owings Mills, 443-471-2600

Great Sage
Open since 2004, this wholly vegan HoCo staple opened long before the vegan/vegetarian/gluten-free trifecta became buzzwords in Baltimore. Great Sage is proof positive that following a vegetable-driven diet doesn’t have to be limiting. Start with an organic spirit or glass of wine and a bowl of artichoke-spinach dip, then move onto any number of sustainable salads (we heart the couscous, featuring chickpeas, sweet potatoes, Brussels sprouts, pumpkin seeds, and a knockout pomegranate dressing) and the beet poké entrée tossed in ponzu sauce served with coconut rice. There are plenty of other options, too, such as a hearts of palm “crab cake” sandwich topped with caper-scallion rémoulade. Veg Out: The Tres Leches cake (made with soy, cashew, and coconut milk) is a highlight. Table Tip: A new coffee bar features house-made pastries, gluten-free bowls of oatmeal, smoothies, and even a tofu and aioli breakfast sandwich. 5809 Clarksville Square Dr., Clarksville, 443-535-9400

The Grub Factory

Not many spots could pull off a vegan cheese steak, but the “cheezsteak” creation (house-made seitan sauteed with peppers, onions, and a soy-free, Cheese Whiz-like sauce on a Stone Mill hoagie roll) at The Grub Factory could stand up to the real-deal big boys in the City of Brotherly Love. Other offerings include breakfast options such as rice flour pancakes with a tofu scramble side that mimics the consistency and taste of scrambled eggs. Veg Out: Don’t miss the vegan “bacon,” aka smoked coconut chips flavored to taste like the real thing. Table Tip: Pick a seat next to one of the many murals celebrating African heritage. 1210 N. Charles St., 443-602-7018

Harmony Bakery

Maybe it’s the preponderance of hearts used as motif in this vegan/vegetarian Hampden cafe, but the love truly leaps off every plate. Yes, there’s plenty of sweet stuff (lemon doughnuts, bliss balls) to sate those cravings, but we gravitate toward the savory house-made quiches, samosas, and tarts. Word of warning: The mouthwatering display case makes deciding difficult. Veg Out: The chickpea tart filled with caramelized onions and served with a side of coconut cilantro chutney really rates. Table Tip: This compact cafe fills up quickly at lunchtime. If need be, get your order to go. The friendly staff will happily provide the proper heating instructions. 3446 Chestnut Ave., 410-235-3870

Helmand Kabobi

This Afghani restaurant is a casual spinoff of the beloved Mount Vernon mainstay, The Helmand. With its mod stenciled walls, high warehouse-style ceilings, and concrete floors, the ambiance has been updated, but the menu is filled with many of the same vegetarian favorites you can find at the flagship restaurant, including the signature Kaddo Borani—baked baby pumpkin seasoned with sugar and drizzled with garlic yogurt sauce. Bowls also beckon such as a fragrant, almost stew-like option made with cauliflower and chickpeas and nestled on a bed of challow rice. Veg Out: Don’t miss the Bowlawni appetizer—two turnovers, one filled with leeks, and the other with potatoes. Table Tip: We’ll admit to fibbing that it was the birthday of a guest at our table just to see what would ensue. As we blew out the candle on a gratis piece of chocolate-hazelnut cake, we wished that the Veggie Gods would lead us back here sometime soon. 855 N. Wolfe St., 410-327-2230

The Land of Kush

When you think of soul food, you don’t often conjure up words like “vegan” or “vegetarian,” let alone “healthy.” But The Land of Kush takes those delicious homegrown flavors and gives them a green spin. Let’s be clear: At this Seton Hill eatery, all the food, from curry “chicken” to “crab cakes,” is 100 percent vegan. But don’t let that fool you—burgers, made with lentils, and the eggplant Parmesan, topped with vegan cheese, are as belly-filling as the real deal. Veg out: Fittingly, we dug into a bowl of barbecue “ribs,” made with marinated soy protein in savory sautéed peppers, carrots, and onions. For a comfort food combo platter, we added smoked collard greens and whole-wheat mac-and-“cheese.” Table Tip: Wash it all down with smoothies and fruit-and-vegetable juices. 840 N. Eutaw St., 410-225-5874

Liquid Earth

A funky ambiance and deeply delicious food have made this Fells Point hideaway a vegan, raw, and vegetarian staple for more than 20 years. While the neighborhood has evolved, owners Mike and Antonette Lippy have been able to sustain all comers with flavorful, wholesome foods and drinks derived from the freshest, largely organic local ingredients. Tofu stars in all its variations, whether marinated and thinly sliced (the loaded Filly Cheese Fake), or diced with veggies and Nayonaise (the creamy Tofu Salad sandwich). Greens also shine in sandwiches, salads, and raw items, while fruits and vegetables collaborate—sometimes with spirulina and bee pollen—in creative juices and smoothies. Veg Out: The Not Ham Sandwich, with raw red onion and spunky horseradish mayonnaise, is an ideal lunch. Table Tip: Don’t skip Antonette’s vegan oatmeal chocolate chip cookie. 1626 Aliceanna St., 410-276-6606

Mango Grove

With one of the lowest meat-consuming populations in the world, India’s cuisine has long been known for its culinary focus on vegetables. Vegans and vegetarians alike will delight in the offerings at this South Asian oasis. The fare, including thalis, oothappams, and shorbas, is authentic, aromatic, and thanks to the absence of animal fat, a lot lighter than your typical strip-mall Indian-food greasy spoon. Veg Out: Zero in on the dosai section of the menu. A dosai is a jumbo (we’re talking nearly 2-feet long) rice and white lentil crepe. Table Tip: The all-you-can-eat lunch buffet is a steal at $12.95. 8865 Stanford Blvd., Columbia, 410-884-3426

Naked Lunch

As one might expect, the lunch spot at MOM’s Organic Market in Hampden takes its vegetarian and vegan food quite seriously. The fully organic grocery store touts a small corner cafe with healthy meals that, while not scientifically proven, could add years to your life. Brown rice bowls packed with tofu and seaweed and glistening with gluten-free dressings abound, but also try the cauliflower steak, marinated in lemon juice, olive oil, garlic, and dill, or the black-bean burger, a fiber-packed patty of black beans and sweet potato smeared with guacamole on a spelt bun. Everything is served in biodegradable to-go containers (duh), and if you’re extra ecologically minded, the grocer even offers reserved parking for patrons driving fuel-efficient cars. Veg Out: The Pink Lady juice is an invigorating elixir of apple, orange, beet, lemon, and lime juices featuring the funky fizz of kombucha. Table Tip: Browse the grocery store’s luxurious organic goods and start planning your next meal. 711 W. 40th St., 667-219-2500

On the Hill Cafe
This sweet and sunny spot sits in the shadow of the Maryland Institute College of Art, so it’s not surprising to find a menu that’s heavy on colorful and creative vegan and vegetarian gems, from seasonal summer rolls to a bowl of rice, beans, and crispy plantains to a chipotle black bean rice burger with corn. Veg Out: We can’t stop oohing and ahing over the house-made tamale cakes. Served in a stack, these corn creations cavort with pico de gallo, guacamole, Monterey Jack cheese, and sour cream. One bite and you’ll start planning your return visit. Table Tip: Bring extra spending money for a work on the walls by fledgling MICA artists. 1431 John St., 410-225-9667

Paulie Gee’s
A pizza pilgrimage can be tough when you’re vegan, especially given that dairy, i.e. cheese, is a central ingredient. And while there are plenty of places with vegetarian pizza, few have this variety of vegan pizzas. This Hampden slice joint has dedicated half of its menu to vegan pies. Here, slices of perfection—topped with house-made cashew ricotta, vegan sausage, and vegan marinara—add up to way more than the sum of their parts. The Russell Bell, made with smoked vegan mozzarella, lemon slices, basil, and olive oil, is a good start. Veg Out: Pizza is the main event, but start with a salad. We enjoyed the cleverly called Grape to Meetcha—arugula with grape tomatoes, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and a quick coating of lemon vinaigrette. Table Tip: If you’re more of the to-go type, consider take out, available only Tuesday through Thursday and Sunday. 3535 Chestnut Ave., 410-889-1048

Red Emma’s

Anything goes at this bookstore-cafe, from the staff and the clientele (an eclectic mix of JHU film hipsters and MICA students) to the selection of books (Karl Marx’s Communist Manifesto) to a menu on which vegan pastas (mushroom ravioli in herb butter) keep company with spanakopita, a kick-ass báhn mì, and colorful salads. Most menu items can be made vegan. Veg Out: Don’t miss the rotating selection of irresistible Hvmble vegan doughnuts on display behind the glass. Table Tip: Pay it forward with a prepaid cup of soup ($3.50) and a cup of coffee ($1) for someone in need. 30 W. North Ave., 443-602-7585

Spice & Dice

Set aside your concerns when you see grilled pork and chicken on the menu here. We promise you’ll find plenty of V’s (vegetarian) and v’s (vegan) on the lineup at this BYOB spot, where veggie versions of almost every dish can be made. With head chef-owner and Thai native Lawan Fuangphon in the kitchen, expect Siam staples such as eggplant with basil sauce, masaman curry, tofu with peanut sauce, and giant bowls of Tom Yum noodle soup. Veg Out: The crispy eggplant salad has just the right kick without starting a three-alarm fire on your palate. Table Tip: Enjoy live jazz on Thursday nights. 1220 E. Joppa Road, Towson, 410-494-8777

Stall 11

Don’t be fooled by this simple stall in Remington’s R. House. Behind the micro succulents, chef Melanie Molinaro takes an artistic approach to vegan and vegetarian cuisine, focusing on colorful local ingredients. Teaming up with the Urban Pastoral city farm, her creations are outright beautiful, be they smoothies (the radiant Raven, packed with beets, bananas, and a hint of orange) or starches (the Kyoto Bowl with udon noodles, broccoli, ginger sauce, and avocado). The well-lit spot also carries a cold case of salty and sweet treats like vegetarian chili-and-rice and chia seed pudding for herbivores on the go. Veg Out: Sure, it’s not Geno’s or Jim’s, but the Funghi Philly, filled with mushrooms, peppers, caramelized onions, and faux Cheese Whiz, fashioned from creamy cashews, is a fun take on a Philadelphia cheese steak. It might sound sacrilegious, but it’s surprisingly tasty. Table Tip: In season, nab a spot outside in the sun. 301 W. 29th St., 443-681-1911

Sticky Rice

This hole-in-the-wall, Asian-inspired hipster haven features an impressive array of novelty sushi, noodle bowls, soups, and starters, so whether you’re vegetarian, vegan, or gluten-free, there’s no need to miss out as your friends consume Crazy Calamari or Spicy Salmon Rolls. Mock chicken, tofu, sweet potato, umeboshi (pickled plum), oshinko (pickled radish), and innovative sauces (such as one with sambal and agave jalapeño) populate the menu. Veg Out: Go for the Garden Balls, aka great gobs of spicy rice and red pepper stuffed inside a tempura fried tofu pocket. Even vegans have their guilty pleasures. Table Tip: Hang out until the bar closes at 2 a.m. for some karaoke to go with your teriyaki tofu bites. 1634 Aliceanna St., 443-682-8243

Sweet 27

With its funky décor and accent lights, this Remington standby is known for its eclectic multi-cultural cuisine. As you dig into riffs on Asian (General Tso tofu, stir fry quinoa), Latin (black bean mole enchiladas), and Indian cuisines (see below), let your taste buds travel the globe. Regardless of origin, every dish is entirely gluten-free. Veg Out: We couldn’t resist the “Indian tostadas,” a Tex Mex-meets-Mumbai mix of chickpeas, potatoes, onions, tamarind, and mint atop crispy corn tortillas. Table Tip: Sit in the upper-level dining room and admire the mural that features an epic dinner party including Edgar Allan Poe, Thurgood Marshall, and John Waters. 123 W. 27th St., 410-464-7211

8/5-20: Restaurant Week
Participating restaurants. Whether it’s brunch, lunch, or dinner, enjoy 15 days of prix fixe menus from 60 of Baltimore County’s top chefs and best restaurants.

8/6: Frederick Wine Festival
Carroll Creek Linear Park, S. Market St., Frederick. At this inaugural festival, feast on eats from local chefs as you wine your way through vintages from Maryland vineyards.

8/6-7: Caribbean Wine Splash
Dove Valley Winery, 645 Harrington Road, Rising Sun. Sip wine, shop local artisans, and soak up the sounds of Caribbean music, steel drums, and reggae in Cecil County.

8/12-13 MD State BBQ Bash
2 S. Bond St., Bel Air. Join thousands of meat lovers for this annual food truck rally and competition for the best barbecue in the state.

8/13: Sip and Stroll
The Maryland Zoo in Baltimore, 1876 Mansion House Dr. Take an intimate evening tour of the zoo while enjoying wine, beer, and hors d’oeuvres.

8/20: Vegan Soulfest
Baltimore City Community College, 2901 Liberty Heights Ave. Learn about the vegan lifestyle with guest speakers, local purveyors, food vendors, and local artists.

These days, there are sweet options for most people dealing with dietary and medical restrictions. “I’ve seen people literally dance when they learn they can have a vegan cupcake,” says Mark Zlatich, manager of Sweet 27. The Remington cafe and bakery is happy to fill a need by specializing in gluten-free goodies and vegan treats.

The bakery/restaurant comes by its mission honestly. Renee D’Souza, who co-owns Sweet 27 with her husband Richard, discovered she had celiac disease, an autoimmune disorder triggered by gluten, not long after she got a pastry degree from culinary school. “It was a shock,” she says.

“I realized that even working around flour, breathing it in, was damaging to the system.”

She and her husband, also a chef, then began experimenting with gluten-free baked goods at home, developing combinations of potato, almond, and coconut flours mixed with tapioca and Xanthan gum. The couple decided to open the bakery in 2005, followed by the restaurant in 2010.

While an estimated one in 100 people have celiac disease worldwide, many people are turning to gluten-free diets for myriad reasons, including gastrointestinal issues, allergies, and a desire to avoid genetically modified foods. “People are constantly learning about what foods are best for them,” says Katie Smallwood, a manager at Great Sage, which went vegan in 2010 when the owners embraced a diet free of animal products. The Clarksville restaurant also has a range of gluten-free options and dabbles in raw foods.  

Even mainstream restaurants cater to those who eschew wheat flour. B&O American Brasserie has a gluten-free bête noir, for instance, while the Rusty Scupper offers a gluten-free molten “chocolate indulgence” cake on its menu.

But, as Allison Parker-Abromitis, a spokeswoman for the Foreman Wolf restaurant group, points out, “There’s always sorbet.”