Gone is the dingy bar with pool tables, murals, and its (in)famous karaoke corner. The space has been completely renovated with stenciled, velvet walls, gold fixtures, and gray-and-black decor that all feels very 1920s old Hollywood. 

Of course, as is evident with the name, Bookmakers is primarily focused on its cocktail program, which is being led by Ryan Sparks, formerly of Jack’s Bistro. On a visit last night, Sparks was unpacking apertif wines and tinkering with Absinthe drippers, a sure sign of the creativity to come. 

I sampled the Federale (Dobel Maestro tequila, Becherovka, cinnamon, grapefruit, lemon, and mint garnish), which was herbal and spicy. The cocktail menu also displays other innovative touches, like house-made tonic and orange ice cubes (freezing the orange peel inside the ice) for the Bookmakers Old Fashioned. 

Of course, there’s also the food, manned by Chris Amendola and his team, formerly of Fleet Street Kitchen. The menu is filled with trendy and seasonal dishes like salt-roasted beets, smoked bone marrow, and pan-roasted diver scallops. It should be noted that Amendola uses a lot of ingredients from his foraging trips, causing his menu to be ever-changing.

While, for now, Bookmakers feels a bit out of place in a neighborhood known more for its Miller Lites than its Pimms Cups, hopefully it’s a sign of changing times. When Rye first opened up in Fells Point, people didn’t think the party scene was ready for such a sophisticated spot. But, if anything, it has upped the ante and helped put Baltimore on the map as a cocktail destination. 

My prediction is that Bookmakers will have a similar impact on Federal Hill, which already has a culinary scene to brag about. I think its residents are ready for a spirits scene for which they can do the same.

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But we were so happy when our copy of Esquire magazine‘s June issue came and we saw that drinks correspondent David Wondrich picked Rye as one of the the “25 Best Bars in America.” The write-up was small and a bit snarky, but the inclusion itself speaks volumes.

Rye opened in late 2011 and made its mark as Baltimore’s first bonafide cocktail bar. Managing partner and beverage director Doug Atwell said he was extremely flattered by the list.

“David Wondrich came by Rye last autumn and had a good time,” Atwell said in an email. “I’m thrilled he decided to put us on his annual list. We’re feeling pretty good about getting Baltimore some national attention.”

The accolades are likely to continue, as the group behind Rye, Stuggy’s, and Willow is about to open another cocktail bar in Federal Hill, called Bookmaker’s, in the Cross Street space that was formerly karaoke bar Nevin’s. 

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The name (which was chosen because of willow trees’ resilient and independent qualities) also reflects the organic feeling decor of the place—all earthtone accents and beautiful sage-colored walls. The former Sam’s Kid space is well transformed with community tables in the front (seating 10-12 people), a Spanish tiled, teardrop-shaped bar, and a striking lounge upstairs—complete with fireplace and retro furniture (some salvaged from 1920’s Guilford mansions).

The concept of Willow, as described to me by co-owner Ryan Perlberg, is an “infusion lounge.” The drink menu heavily relies on house-made infusions (crafted by RYE and Willow bar manager Doug Atwell): think rhubarb vodka, jalapeño tequila, and blackberry bourbon. The menu also includes abbreviations, which are $7 shot drinks, a concept brought over from RYE.

The cuisine consists of casual Latin fare like mix-and-match tacos, quesadillas, nachos, and taco salad and includes proteins like Korean BBQ, vegan chorizo, smoked lamb, and pork adobo. Perlberg points out that the menu is almost entirely gluten-free.

Judging from opening weekend (the lounge was packed both Friday and Saturday) and the success of the other two Broadway businesses, Willow is sure to be a hit for customers who want innovative cocktails and affordable food in a beautiful atmosphere.

[Images: courtesy of Willow]

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