Some of the casualties of Baltimore’s recent string of restaurant closures were our traditional Irish pubs. Within the last few months, The Harp poured its last pint of Guinness in Perry Hall, Ryan’s Daughter held its final jam session in Belvedere Square, and regulars said an emotional goodbye to Butchers Hill mainstay The Life of Reilly. Some are still also feeling the loss of Patrick’s of Pratt Street, considered to be the oldest Irish pub in America, which closed for good in the summer of 2016.

Although some of the greats have gone by the wayside, a handful of the area’s most authentic Irish pubs are still going strong. But what exactly makes a great Irish pub? For Dave Niehenke, who has owned Mick O’Shea’s in Mt Vernon since 2002, it’s all about consistency.

“It’s kind of like a good pair of jeans,” Niehenke says. “They’re comfy and sturdy. You always know what you’re going to get. If I go travel to another city and I see two bars, and one of them is an Irish pub, I’m going to go there because I find it more comforting and welcoming. It’s rarely ever the shiniest thing on the block, but it’s always solid and reliable.”

Paul Sellers, manager of Claddagh Pub in Canton’s O’Donnell Square, had a similar experience while visiting New York City during the holidays this winter.

“I found myself going inside of every Irish pub I saw because I just felt more at home there,” he says. “The people are more real. I just like it better that way. And we try to make sure the people around here feel the same way.”

One way that Claddagh incorporates that Irish feel is through its interior, which highlights dark woods, strung lights, and vintage Guinness posters. Sellers continued the theme with Claddagh’s recently-debuted outdoor patio, which features decorative maps and imported furniture that pay homage to Cork—a city in Southwest Ireland.

“All of the decor is authentic to Irish culture,” Sellers says. “From the Harp and Smithwick’s signs, to all of the Ireland soccer jerseys on the walls.”

Delia Foley’s in Federal Hill boasts a similar feel, which co-owner Andrew Carter says only furthers the bar’s inviting atmosphere.

“Everything from the decor, to the Guinness Club where people can put their names up on the wall, it all just has this feel-good vibe,” Carter says. “This isn’t just some bar that you go to after midnight on a Friday or Saturday. This is that bar you go to hang out with your friends for happy hour any day of the week.”

Of course, tradition also plays a significant role in Baltimore’s Irish pubs. When Bill Mitcherling opened An Poitin Stil in Timonium in 1999, his goal was to commemorate the history of Baltimore’s Irish community.

“The whole idea was to bring a little bit of Ireland to Baltimore,” Mitcherling says. “And to honor the traditions of the Irish and the state of Maryland dating back to the time of the B&O Railroad. With the music and the aesthetics of the place, it’s typical for people to come in here and say they feel like they’re back in Ireland.”

Live music is also an integral part of any Irish bar. While Mick O’Shea’s continues to be a home for Irish and Gaelic bands, it’s also become a popular venue for local performers of other genres.

“Years ago it was Irish music on the radio 24-7, and always live Irish bands on the weekends,” Niehenke remembers. “But a lot of those bands that used to play here have since retired. We still feature the traditional Irish music, but also do more local music now, everything from reggae to rock and R&B.”

Another way to stay true to the authentic concept is through sports. Patrick Russell, owner of Sláinte Irish Pub in Fells Point, says when he was in Ireland doing research prior to opening the bar in 2004, he was inspired by the sports pubs of Galway and Belfast—where spirited fans backing different teams gathered to watch matches together.

“A lot of pubs here are trying to become either a Liverpool or a Chelsea supporter,” Russell explains. “So whenever a team scores, you’re all very happy for each other but you can’t throw it in the face of your adversary. In Ireland, what makes it such an amazing environment is the banter that goes back and forth between opposing fans. When you watch a soccer match at Sláinte, Thames Street literally erupts.”

Although authenticity remains a priority, many pub owners are also making it a point to adapt with the times. Says Russell: “You have the younger generation coming up and they’re not quite understanding what it’s all about.”

In an effort to accommodate the newest wave of bar-goers, Russell has diversified the food options at Sláinte to include more European gastropub-style dishes like poutine, Scotch eggs, and a hearty gumbo—which was featured by Guy Fieri on Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives in 2014.

“When people want to go out to eat together, it’s tough when you have an isolated menu,” he says. “We started to include more eclectic offerings, so that not everyone who comes in here has to be in the mood for Shepherd’s Pie or corned beef and cabbage. And I’ve seen a lot of guys in the industry that are doing the same thing.”

At Delia Foley’s, Carter is in the process of modernizing the bar’s look with new doors that lead out to  Charles Street. But he’s hoping to do it in a way that preserves the spot’s Irish charm.

“Instead of the steel garage doors, which give it a little less of an Irish feel, we decided to do accordion-style doors,” he says. “It’s a way for us to get with the modern times and adjust accordingly.”

Even in the midst of all of the changes, local pub owners assure that a warm atmosphere and top-notch service will always remain a priority.

“The one thing that Irish pubs are known for, it’s an Irish word called the craic,” Niehenke says. “It roughly translates to good times with friends and good conversations. And that’s what we try to continue.”

An Poitin Stil

Timonium
By 7:15 p.m., An
Poitin Stil’s parking lot is filled. Inside, happy hour is bleeding into
a bender. Four small groups of officemates are spread throughout The
Stil, that rarest of breed, a county establishment that feels more bar
than restaurant. Not that it lacks tasty fare. The Stil offers Irish
classics like fish and chips and stew. Behind the eight-sided main bar,
conversation varies from shop talk to gossip as the Harps flow. Outside
on the heated “paddy ’o,” more white collars lean on the semi-circular
bar, sipping suds while a duo plays familiar classic rock tunes. It’s 9
p.m. now, and comments like, “You want a Jäger bomb?” and “What’s your
favorite kind of underwear?” are overheard. Tomorrow should be an
interesting workday, assuming everyone makes it into the office. 2323
York Road, 410-560-7900, thestill.net

The Brewer’s Art

Mt. Vernon
Walk
up to The Brewer’s Art, and you’re faced with a decision. Head through
the double doors into the foyer of the grand row house-turned-restaurant
or descend the stairs to the dim and grimy wine cellar-turned-bar.
You’ll be happy either way—the upstairs exudes elegance, with dark wood
molding and marble fireplaces. When you feel like late-night drinks,
downstairs is the perfect hangout with its cozy corner tables carved
with initials. But what we have to mention is the beer. Six tap handles,
some handmade by brewers, signal what’s on draft for the night: a
roughly hewn cross for their famous abbey brown ale Resurrection, a hand
throwing up metal horns for their devilish, Belgian-style Ozzy (a
signed, black-and-white image of the star himself sits behind the bar),
and so on. All suds are brewed on-site, but if beer’s not your thing
(we’ll let it slide), extensive wine and whiskey lists are sure to
quench your thirst. 1106 N. Charles Street, 410-547-9310, thebrewersart.com

Cat’s Eye Pub

Fells Point
Venture
into Cat’s Eye Pub, and you’ll be welcomed with open arms—or at least a
handshake across the bar from co-owner Tony Cushing Jr. A family-owned
Baltimore staple for more than 35 years, the bar has a steady group of
regulars and tourists on pilgrimage. (It made All About Beer’s list of
125 places to have a beer before you die.) The dive’s eclectic décor has
influences Irish, maritime, and downright random. (An upside-down
Christmas tree hangs from the ceiling.) Talented bands and a
come-as-you-are vibe distinguish this pub from its neighbors. There’s
live music every night (one particularly awesome blues band improvised
lyrics about an O’s game) and the front bar is crowded with dancers.
Move to the back room or patio for laid-back conversation with a crowd
diverse in age and style. You’ll find no pretense here, just genuine
people looking to have a good time. 1730 Thames Street, 410-276-9866, catseyepub.com

The Club Charles

Station North
Whatever
you might have heard about The Club Charles, it’s probably true. Yes,
it can be cliquish and dripping with hipster attitude—what do you want?
Matt Porterfield hangs out here!—but it also has low drink prices and
very competent bartenders. The music alone could keep you there for
hours, crafting your own playlist that includes the Cocteau Twins, James
Brown, The Velvet Underground, and The Jesus Lizard. The place is
really, really red, but that only adds to the den-of-iniquity vibe. It’s
got two bars and several retro-looking booths and cubbies. The kitchen
next door pumps out tasty burgers and pizza, and if you’re drinking on a
budget, it’s hard to beat $2.75 for a PBR and $4.30 for a pint of
Guinness. Sure, The Club Charles is not the easiest place to make new
friends, but that shouldn’t matter since you’ll probably run into
someone you know. 1724 N. Charles Street, 410-727-8815, theclubcharles.com

Curb Shoppe Bar & Grill

Mt. Washington
Everything’s
in such tight proximity at the Curb Shoppe that the cops on one side of
the bar can almost certainly hear the conversation about drugs that two
men and a woman are having on the other. (It doesn’t help that these
three appear to have been on their stools for quite some time, and as
such, they’re pretty much shouting.) Neither group cares. It’s comfort
not conflict that has kept the Curb Shoppe around all these years. It
serves sandwiches on white, wheat, or rye—a practice, like the place
itself, that’s seems timeless. If you’re not craving a plate of the Curb
Shoppe’s classic burger bites or gravy fries—not likely—help yourself
to a basket of pretzels on the bar. The beer is cold, the drinks are
strong, and maybe the only proof that it’s 2012 and not 1982 is the
constant parade of people walking outside to smoke. 5736 Falls Road,
410-433-8299, curbshoppe.com

Duda’s Tavern

Fells Point
Duda’s
has come a long way from its mid-century origins as a shot-and-beer
bar, a gathering place—and occasional boarding house—for ship captains
and seafaring men. Now operated by the third generation of the Duda
family, the attractively renovated tavern, at the corner of Bond and
Thames, is a comfortable spot to enjoy a Resurrection draft, some
complimentary peanuts, and a really delicious crab cake on a soft
brioche roll. Weeknight and happy-hour specials provide more reasons to
visit Duda’s and enjoy the ’80s music, pleasing draft selection, and
sports shown on three TVs. In warm weather, the crowd spills onto the
sidewalk, where a handful of tables offer a cafe feel. 1600 Thames
Street, 410-276-9719, dudastavern.com

Frazier’s on the Avenue

Hampden
After
pouring a glass of red wine, filled to the brim, our bartender asks us
not for cash or a credit card, but for our names. We’re at the smaller
of Frazier’s two bars (the one in the room with a single pool table)
and, even though we’re the only people here he doesn’t know, he treats
us like we’re regulars. We will be soon. The sum of its nuances makes
Frazier’s special—the flavorful salsa served with the potato skins, the
wide wooden bar with a step on which to rest your feet and a ledge for
your elbows, and the welcoming people on both sides of it. After
splitting two salmon cakes and a delicious plate of fries, we order a
nightcap. Our driver asks if she can get a half glass of wine. “Sure,”
the bartender says. You get the feeling that he rarely says “no.” He
starts pouring, looks up smiling, and says, “Just say when.” 919 W. 36th
Street, 410-662-4914

Howard’s Subway

Linthicum
In
July of 1946, Oscar Howard Sensibaugh and his wife, Ruby, bought a
house on Hammonds Ferry Road and opened a bar in the basement. The
underground location begat its enigmatic name: Subway. Four generations
of Sensibaughs have worked the bar since, and honor Howard’s creation.
It is a monument to what a basement bar should look like—a precise
mixture of Formica, wood paneling, tile and terrazzo floors, red-leather
stools, and amber wall sconces. Judy the bartender scolds a customer
for using profanity, and he sheepishly apologizes. At a corner booth,
five young men share a pitcher of beer. The double doors to the kitchen
swing open and Karen Sensibaugh carries a tray of loudly sizzling New
York strip steaks. As she runs to the table, smoke trails behind her,
and when she sets the metal platters down, the men applaud and cheer. As
they eat, a mouthwatering aroma fills the room, and several patrons ask
to see menus. 711 N. Hammonds Ferry Road, 410-789-6609

Jennings Cafe

Catonsville
Jennings
Cafe feels a lot like your uncle’s knotty-pine clubroom, and even the
regulars will welcome you like a long-lost cousin.
Family-owned-and-operated since 1958, Jennings is a comfortable spot to
have a few beers and watch the game with the guys, but it’s wholesome
enough to bring the kids for dinner, even complete with a children’s
menu that includes spaghetti, hot dogs, and chicken tenders—plus, plenty
of choices for grownups. Try the popular crab cakes, soft crabs, and
shrimp salad with a side of cucumber and onions, lovingly prepared by
the matriarch herself, Mrs. Jennings. With a subtle horse-racing theme
referencing its roots, and waitresses who just might pull up a chair and
shoot the breeze while you eat, Jennings has a comfortably dated feel.
The only modern element might be the clever addition of Fat Tire ale to
the tap array. 808 Frederick Road, 410-744-3824, jenningscafe.com

Johnny Dee’s Lounge

Parkville
Tucked
in the lower level of the Loch Ridge Shopping Center, Johnny Dee’s
Lounge is literally a hideaway. Walk through the unassuming doors and be
transported to another time. This isn’t your grandfather’s lounge,
unless your grandfather was very hip. The main room is filled with
enough vintage mid-century modern furniture to make the set designers of
Mad Men weep. If you don’t want to sit in the lounge, try to get a seat
at the bar. Its “L” shape, with nine black leather stools crowded
around it, makes it ideal for chatting up strangers or drinking with a
friend. If you want a beer, go ahead and order one of the 20 bottled
brands in stock. But there’s something about the place that just makes
you want a cocktail—a classic martini, Manhattan, or Tom Collins.
Bartenders Joan, Tiffany, and Henry pour 30 years of combined experience
into every drink. Small plaques bearing the names of good customers
line the walls—they can’t be purchased, they must be earned. And there’s
no better time to start. 1705 Amuskai Road, 410-665-7000

The Judge’s Bench Pub

Ellicott City
In
a city where our favorite bars are around the corner, driving 20
minutes down the road seems unnecessary. That is, until we visit The
Judge’s Bench Pub in Ellicott City. Located right on quaint Main Street,
the stone building bedazzled with white Christmas lights gives off an
immediately warm feeling. We plop down on two open bar stools and notice
a diverse array of beer taps hanging from the ceiling and marvel at how
the bartender, Carrie, seems to know everyone’s back story. “How’s the
new job?” she’ll ask. “Did you get a haircut?” Though we’re not
regulars, she’s sweet as can be as we order a beer flight (four 4-ounce
pours) including Ommegang Abbey, Heavy Seas Great Pumpkin, Stoudts
Achluophobia, and a Weyerbacher Heresy stout. Without missing a beat,
she assures us that the Stoudts isn’t too strong, and only clocks in at
4.8 percent ABV. Rumors are this place is haunted (like most of Ellicott
City), but we can’t help but feel a sense of total comfort, and we’re
not the only ones. “That’s what happens,” says a middle-aged man next to
us. “You come in here for one drink and, before you know it, they’re
closing down.” 8385 Main Street, 410-465-3497, judgesbenchpub.com

Leon’s

Mt. Vernon
No
one seems to remember the name of the first bar at the corner of Tyson
Street and Park Avenue, or how long it had been there. But in 1957 it
was called Leon’s, and Leon’s was the first “gay-friendly” bar in
Baltimore. So, to Charm City’s gay community, it’s hallowed ground. On
Sunday nights, the place is packed and fun. Patrons, all male, are
spilling out the front door onto the sidewalk. Inside, Ben the bartender
works the oval bar, quickly serving two-for-one, happy-hour drinks.
It’s a dark, low-ceilinged place, and techno music blares from the
speakers without overwhelming the conversations. There is no uniform:
Denim is as prevalent as leather; Orioles and Ravens jerseys are both
represented; and men in Polo shirts sit next to men wearing no shirts at
all. Hugs and kisses get exchanged when walking in, even if you walked
out just a minute before. Some patrons are obviously alone, but no one
looks lonely. And maybe that’s all anyone should ask of any bar, gay or
straight. 870 Park Avenue, 410-539-4993, leonsbaltimore.tripod.com

Muir’s Tavern

South Baltimore
There
was a time when Fort Avenue was lined with family-owned bars—perhaps as
many as 30 between Race Street and Fort McHenry. South Baltimore’s
locals bought drinks from their neighbors in places called Cox’s,
Hartlove’s, and Henry’s. Today those names are nothing but memories,
only Muir’s remains. It’s a Formstone castle at the corner of Marshall
Street and Fort Avenue with a classic Baltimore pedigree. It was founded
in 1944 by Roland Muir, a tugboat captain, who ran the place and lived
upstairs. His son, Roland Jr. took over in 1968, but not before he
worked 23 years as a longshoreman and 18 years for the National Brewing
Company. Inside, it’s pure Baltimore: There’s a framed portrait of
Johnny Unitas on the wall, the Natty Boh signage dates back to when it
was actually made here, and red neon light bathes everything. The bar
fills up on a Friday afternoon and Roland Jr. sits at a back table with
his nephew, Tom, the third-generation Muir at the helm. They clink two
beer cans together and toast the approach of the seventh decade. 36 E.
Fort Avenue, 410-385-0344