For as long as he can remember, ZaVino Italian Marketplace owner Gino Kozera worked in hospitality, mostly waiting tables and bartending.

By the age of 25, he and Nancy Longo opened Maryland fare-focused Pierpoint in Fells Point. Then, years later, he opened Amber, a gastropub in Locust Point. Now with the new grab-and-go Italian market, pizzeria, deli, and wine shop in Cross Keys, Kozera is finally selling the food that’s in his DNA. After all, his grandparents hail from Riposto in Sicily.

And while Italian food and family meals with homemade pasta on Sundays were central to his upbringing, it took him time to realize that everyone loves Italian food—not just Italians.

“It’s just taken me longer to figure out that the number-one food people crave is Italian cuisine,” he says, laughing. “The story I’m telling now is about a love for pizza and wine.” His and ours.

What does the name mean?
It’s harder to name a restaurant than a kid. My 32-year-old daughter came up with that—she’s the creative type. “Za” is pizza and “vino” is wine. We married the two I wanted something that was simple and easy to say and something that rolls off the tongue, something that’s memorable and tells a story.

What inspired which gourmet goods you carry in the market?
The inspiration for us is Di Bruno Bros. in Philadelphia and Eataly. No one does it better than Eataly—it just sucks you in. I also grew up going to some of the places like Trinacria and Pastore’s. They are different than we are. We couldn’t create that old-world feel of the wood floors and tiles, so I went with the azure blue, the color of the Mediterranean and Naples. I put a modern spin on an Italian market and made it light and airy.

Tell me a little about your team.
Andrew Weinzirl [who made his mark on the scene with Maggie’s Farm in Lauraville] is running the kitchen and Andrew Isaac [the former sommelier at Magdalena in Mt. Vernon] is the wine director.

What did you want to do with the menu?
The first thing I wanted to do was create an incredible pizza. I wanted quality ingredients that are not too filling, with more of a Neapolitan crispy crust that travels well, like you can get in Naples. We have an eggplant gratin with roasted eggplant, which is a spin on what we did at Pierpoint 35 years ago. Nancy used to fry the eggplant and layer it with caramelized onions and marinara and put it in a springform pan and we’d serve it that way. Andrew did it with roasted eggplant, which is healthier and lighter. It’s flying off the shelves.

Tell me about the wine selection.
There isn’t a lot of focus on Italian wines in wine shops. It’s usually France, Spain, or California. We wanted to focus on Italian wine.

Why did you want to open here?
Seven or eight years ago, I really wanted to do something like this with more of a market and bottle shop—but it just didn’t happen. It has to be the right time and place—and this was both. I like the city-county feel of [Cross Keys]. It’s a village and it has openness and trees and grass and it’s a really good hub for community. It has parking and checks a lot of the boxes that places in the city don’t offer right now.

Beginning with the opening of the Greek-isles-inspired Ouzo Bay in 2012, Atlas Restaurant Group has gone all over the globe, with stops in Japan (Azumi), Italy (Tagliata, Italian Disco), Latin America (Maximón), and, soon, France (Monarque). But while the restaurant group has been around the world, it’s finally firmly rooted in Baltimore with The Choptank. Inside the newly renovated Broadway Market in Fells Point, Choptank bills itself as a “classic fish and crabhouse,” but it’s way more than that.

For starters, there’s a locally loved chef—Andrew Weinzirl of Maggie’s Farm fame—an adult playground with ping-pong, pool, and foosball tables, cornhole in place of the usual Keno, century-old photographs of Fells Point (no stuffed marlins or knotty pine here), and live music nightly. If there’s smoke outside on the patio, it’s likely from cigars, not cigarettes.

It’s a crabhouse, yes, but one with swagger. There’s also a menu full of finds and all the bells and whistles of a landmark in the making. When it comes to Maryland menus, it doesn’t get more Old Line than this: There’s crab soup, Monkton-sourced Roseda pit beef, Maryland crab dip, hard shells (sourced locally when available), Sweet Jesus oysters from the Chesapeake Bay, and Natty Boh’s Beer Can Chicken.

In many ways, this might be my favorite of Atlas’ 13 local spots, which can sometimes feel overly thematic. There’s a theme here for sure, but it’s the story of our state and one fitting for a restaurant set inside the historic south shed of Broadway Market, a place that once served the sailors and immigrants of Fells and is named for the Native American tribe that occupied the Choptank river basin in 1668.

Pretzel monkey bread

Rockfish Oscar

In addition to Atlas co-owners, and born-and-bred Maryland brothers, Alex and Eric Smith, there’s a third partner, Vasilios “Bill” Tserkis, who owns the nearby Captain James Landing crabhouse, which his family has owned and operated for more than five decades. Which is to say, the fabric of that heritage and history are woven into the walls here.

On my first visit, the place was packed in the still-warm fall weather. Of course, there was buzz surrounding the controversial dress code rules (no baggy clothing, no shorts below the knee, no sunglasses after dark) when the place opened in August, which seems to only have increased its popularity. (The dress code has since been amended.)

Throngs of patrons crowded outside, and since it was still in season, the requisite mallets and brown paper lined every picnic table. Inside is a more refined, yet casual space, where designer Patrick Sutton wisely retained the look and the feel of the original market, with its soaring wood-beamed ceilings. Blue and white table- ware and napkins and servers in denim shirts and boating shoes carry through the nautical theme, as does a giant crab rising like a phoenix over the raw-bar area. A Black-Eyed Susan, our state flower, graces every table.

Food-wise, we enjoyed almost everything we ate. The Maryland crab soup was a classic rendition with a tasty tomato broth and large chunks of crab meat; fried green tomatoes add a southern spin to the appetizer section, this version was topped with a blue crab and corn salad and Old Bay aioli. We also enjoyed the pull-apart pretzel monkey bread with Old Bay butter, a dippable cheese sauce, and mustard. An ahi tuna salad was nicely presented with thick slices of seared tuna coated in sesame seeds, served over greens with a tart-and-tangy ponzu dressing.

Our entrees included a luscious crab cake platter with broiled jumbo lump. While many places say that they serve Maryland or Gulf crab meat, there’s no question you’re getting quality crustaceans here. The cake was well-portioned and incredibly sweet, with that great crabby flavor that only comes from blue crab. (Little did I know that the following week, The Sun would publish a scathing review, leading the publication and the restaurant to get into a crab cake kerfuffle.)

I also enjoyed the accompanying sides. The fries and coleslaw, ordinarily throwaway accoutrements, were house-made. We also shared the beer-battered fish tacos. While tasty, they were overly fried, though I took note of the price point of this item, and many items, on the menu at a restaurant group that usually offers much more expensive plates.

Since no night out is complete without a sweet, we settled on the Berger cookie bread pudding: Berger cookies and a heap of Old Bay caramel ice cream from Maryland’s own Taharka Brothers mixed into chocolate brioche bread budding. It was the right side of sweet, and I appreciated the effort that went into creating house-made cookies.

By the time of my second visit, the crab controversy was the talk of the town, and I knew that I needed to return for another visit. Taste is, after all, subjective, but just in case my palate was having an off night, I brought along one of the preeminent experts on Chesapeake cuisine as my dining companion. This time, we ordered the buttermilk fried chicken sandwich (move over, Popeye’s) and a crab cake sandwich.

The verdict? While it seemed to have slightly less lump than the cakes on the platter, I loved the pairing of creamy (tartar-style remoulade) and crisp (fennel slaw) to offset the sweet meat. It’s a damn good cake, with made-in-Maryland pride evident in every bite. My mallet has fallen.

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THE CHOPTANK 1641 Aliceanna St., 443-707-3364. HOURS: Sun.-Sat. 11 a.m.-2 a.m. PRICES: Appetizers, soups, salads: $6-18; sandwiches: $12-29; entrees: $18-39; desserts: $6-8. AMBIANCE: Upscale crabhouse.

Baltimore-born chef Andrew Weinzirl made his name with the farm-to-fork Maggie’s Farm in Lauraville. His newest gig is executive chef at The Choptank, Atlas Restaurant Group’s classic seafood house in Fells Point. Weinzirl’s first job in the industry was at a Ruby Tuesday’s in Westminster. “I was amazed that I could make eight dollars an hour,” he says with a laugh. “I took the job and immediately liked the intensity of it. In every place I’ve worked, I’ve always enjoyed the camaraderie in the kitchen. You become this family with these people you see more than any other family members.” We spoke with chef about his transition from smaller spots to The Choptank, where he likes to dine in Charm City, and whether the farm-to-table trend has gone too far.

What’s it been like for you to transition from smaller places like Maggie’s Farm, and more recently The Brewer’s Art, to The Choptank?
Making that leap to Atlas and working with [co-owners] Alex and Eric [Smith] and [partner] Billy [Tserkis] has been a great experience from the beginning. Billy and I put our heads together to find balance between the food I’d done before and what’s served at traditional Maryland crab house. When we were doing the tastings, I definitely had some ambitious goals on the menu. When we opened the first weekend with 1,000 covers on a Saturday, the stuff I couldn’t conceptualize before it happened had to be scaled down and leveled out.

So what went by the wayside?
The more chef-driven things the little garnishes at The Brewer’s Art or Maggie’s Farm. I had a lot more time to detail dishes and add garnishes. It was a little different owning a 50-seat restaurant or working at The Brewer’s Art with 150 seats.

What did you eat when you were growing up?
My family wasn’t big into food at all. We ate a lot of fast food and convenience food when I was growing up in Arundel and Carroll County. We had our spots that we went to as a family. They were mostly Italian-American spots for special occasions. We weren’t into fine dining.

How did you learn to cook?
I went to Baltimore International College and externed at Linwoods in Owings Mills. I worked with a great sous chef who took me under his wing, and that was it.

Where do you like to eat in Baltimore?
Right now, Azumi is my favorite restaurant in the city. Outside of that, I love Hersh’s and Orto—those are the places I gravitate to more. I know both of those chefs really well.

What are your thoughts on the farm-to-table trend as someone who was practicing it a decade ago? Has it gone too far?
At a certain point, restaurants were taking themselves way too seriously and it got to the point of satire with paragraph explanations about sourcing on menus, though it was all well-intentioned. There are a lot of great farms in Maryland and they work really hard to supply the restaurants. For the amount of restaurants trying to source sustainability, there’s not enough product to go around and chefs want it all the same time of year. There are only so many One Straw Farms and Moon Valley Farms. You have to supplement it somewhere. It’s great that it got people to pay attention to where their food is from.

Give us your elevator pitch for why people should patronize The Choptank?
The owners are people who grew up in this area and wanted to build a restaurant that was going to be an icon—not only for Fells Point, but for Baltimore. When people have friends and family here, they want people to come and taste Baltimore and elevated Maryland food that’s done right. That’s what this place is going to become.

On this week’s episode, we talk about why Baltimore loves a side of ranch. Plus, an Abbey Burger spinoff opens in Mt. Washington, chef Andrew Weinzirl transitions from The Brewer’s Art to The Choptank, and our best bites of the week.

Hosts: Lauren Cohen and Jane Marion
Producer: Evan Greenberg
Music: William Lederer
Podcast Art: Emily Odend’hal

OPEN

The Bun Shop: It only took two years, but the Towson location of this beloved coffee and pastry palace is finally open for business. The Mt. Vernon-based shop brings its signature gold-and-teal aesthetic, comfy furniture, loose-leaf teas, and delectable pastries to its new Baltimore County outpost just off of the Towson Circle. The worldly drink menu highlights a Vietnamese iced coffee, dos leches latte, honey macchiato, spicy mocha with chili and cinnamon, and even a vanilla-infused Paris tea latte. As its name suggests, the pastries, stuffed with everything from apple and gruyere to spinach and feta, are also not to be missed. Plus, Towson University students will be happy to hear that the new location continues the shop’s reputation as a late-night study spot, staying open until 3 a.m. daily. 40 W. Chesapeake Ave., Towson. 443-991-5901

Flying Dog Taphouse: Happy Opening Day, Baltimore! If you’re spending the city’s unofficial holiday at Camden Yards, swing by the new hoppin’ headquarters on the lower concourse near Gate C. Flying Dog Taphouse—a smaller version of the Frederick brewery’s gastropub inside BWI—will pour four draft beers including The Truth imperial IPA, Bloodline blood orange ale, Thunderpeel hazy IPA, and Under Dog gold lager. There will also be ice-cold cans of Bleacher Beer, Raging Bitch, Snake Dog IPA, Numero Uno Mexican lager, Dead Rise Old Bay summer ale, and Dogtoberfest Marzen. (Backing the birds from a neighborhood bar? Be sure to check out our list of food and drink specials.)

COMING SOON

Steak ’N Shake: Midwestern transplants are beaming about the news that Baltimore County will be getting its first Steak ’N Shake this summer. The Illinois-based chain has one location in Anne Arundel County and previously operated a spot at BWI, which closed after a short-but-sweet run in 2016. Locals will be able to get their hands on the eatery’s signature steakburgers—a blend of brisket and Chuck beef—when it opens in the Greenleigh at Crossroads development in White Marsh. Joining Thai Rainbow, Crossroads Wine and Spirits, and the newly minted Michael’s Cafe, Steak N’ Shake will take up 2,100-square-feet and have its own drive-through window. Aside from the hearty burgers, the chain is a go-to for shoestring fries, hand-dipped milkshakes, and the famous Frisco melt—a play on a classic patty melt with Thousand Island dressing and Worcestershire sauce. MD Rt. 43 at Crossroads Circle, White Marsh.

NEWS

Chef Andrew Weinzirl Joins The Choptank: As this new Fells Point crab house readies for an early summer opening inside Broadway Market, owners have brought on former Brewer’s Art chef Andrew Weinzirl to head up the kitchen. A collaboration Atlas Restaurant Group and Billy Tserkis of Captain James Landing, The Choptank will be a neighborhood seafood spot that emphasizes takes on Maryland specialties. (Think crab cakes, fried chicken, and, of course, hard-shell crabs.) The partners thought Weinzirl would be a perfect fit for the gig given his 15 years of industry experience, which includes opening Maggie’s Farm. Weinzirl says he jumped at the opportunity to settle in Fells Point. “My first memories of Baltimore, aside from Orioles games at Memorial Stadium, are of times spent in Fells Point,” he says. “You can’t think of Fells Point without envisioning the neighborhood’s familiar centerpiece, Broadway Market. It’s an iconic landmark that deserves to properly honor and showcase Baltimore cuisine.” 1640 Aliceanna St.

Local Dining Week: There’s still time to get in on this dining promotion running through April 7. Presented by local organizations like Strong City Baltimore and Community Wealth Builders, this third-annual event offers discounts at more than 50 restaurants throughout the city. Unlike Baltimore Restaurant Week, where each eatery offers a prix-fixe menu, Dining Week offers a number of different specials that encourage diners to support the local restaurant economy. Plus, in partnership with the Orioles, 100 patrons at each participating eatery will receive vouchers for free tickets to any game in April. Noteworthy deals include three sliders for $6 during happy hour at Abbey Burger, weekend brunch specials at Frazier’s, and 20 percent-off of your bill at BrickNFire Pizza Co.

Luigi’s Italian Deli: It’s a big week for Luigi’s on the Avenue in Hampden. In conjunction with launching a new breakfast new menu, which will be offered Wednesday to Sunday from 9-11 a.m., the go-to sandwich spot announced that it will be opening its BYO-patio for the season on Saturday, April 6. Sample the new Breakfast BLT, veggie sandwich, or “Specky Breaky” (speck, roasted bell peppers, and basil) while soaking up some sun. Free koozies will be given out to the first 50 people who stop by. 846 W. 36th St. 443-438-4195

EPICUREAN EVENTS

4/4-7: Green Street Academy Pops Up at R. House
The students of sustainability-focused Green Street Academy in West Baltimore are setting up shop inside R. House’s rotating pop-up stall this week. Throughout the weekend, Green Street will operate directly next to Molina Pizza from the founders of Urban Pastoral—which donated a climate-controlled greenhouse to the charter school’s campus. All proceeds from the menu of grilled sandwiches will benefit GSA Farms, the school’s agri-tech education program that teaches students about urban farming and healthy eating. 301 W. 29th St.

4/5: Hampden West Fest
Gypsy’s Truckstaurant is honoring its food truck roots by hosting this mini-rally in its parking lot off of Clipper Mill Road. Head to Hampden to enjoy live music, cocktails, beer, wine, and plenty of eats from some of the greats. Dig in to a classic Gypsy Queen crab cone, an order of feta-topped fries from Greek on the Street, a barbecue plate from Kommie Pig, or a scrumptious scoop of Honey Graham from Taharka Bros. The free event is dog- and kid-friendly. 3515 Clipper Mill Rd. 5-10 p.m. 443-869-5602

4/5: Cholita’s Tacos Turns Two
Spend your Friday celebrating Cholita’s second birthday with tacos, tortas, and lots of margaritas. In addition to all-day happy hour specials, the Mount Vernon Marketplace stall is ringing in year two with giveaways, a live DJ spinning all night, and a special nacho challenge kicking off at 5 p.m. 520 Park Ave. 5-10 p.m. 443-796-7393

SHUT

Ceriello Fine Foods: The days are numbered for this stalwart Italian grocery store inside Belvedere Square Market. The New York-based chain has anchored the market for more than a decade, but recently decided not to renew its lease. Owner Andy Ceriello recently told The Sun that the store will close in mid-April, mentioning that it “got old” and it was time for the brand to move on. Known as a one-stop-shop for the makings of an Italian feast, the shop was best known for its house-made sauces, cheeses, and prepared foods. Its Brewers Hill location on the bottom floor of the The Porter apartment building also recently closed due to maintenance issues. There’s no word yet on whether that location will get back up and running. 529 E. Belvedere Ave.