Remember Cafe Mezzanotte in Severna Park? No, we didn’t either. Too many new Baltimore restaurants have edged out the 25-year-old Italian stalwart in Anne Arundel County lately. But as we found out recently, it’s time for a revisit. The restaurant underwent a $1-million renovation in 2018 that has transformed its appearance, menu, and personality. Owner Kosmas “Tommie” Koukoulis, who has been Mezzanotte’s sole owner for the past five years after being involved as a partner for 10, wanted to modernize his business without “losing its essence.”

He closed the restaurant for six weeks and went to work. When it reopened in September a year ago, just about everything was updated: the furniture, floor, paint, tables, chairs, logo, signage, uniforms, and kitchen. “The renovation of Mezzanotte was my way of declaring to the community that I’m not going anywhere, and my heart is still there,” he says.

When we entered Mezzanotte, we were taken with its subtle serenity. The surroundings elicit the calm of a yoga studio. Immense artistic renderings on the walls look lovely and also represent the local purveyors and farmers that Koukoulis works with. He asked his sources to send digital images of their landscapes, animals, and products and then fabricated them to fit the space.

Hanging planters are another gesture that is both aesthetically pleasing and practical, adding green to the room while also breaking up the space, which has several dining areas. The physical menu also went through a redo. It’s now one page instead of a leather-bound book.

Customers will still find Italian-American classics such as veal scallopini and lasagna on the menu, but chef Zack Trabbold is also delivering dishes starring confit duck leg, lamb shank, rockfish, and Chilean sea bass. Two of the restaurant’s most popular items are fettuccine Mediterraneo with shrimp, crab, scallops, and a choice of sauces and the Ora King salmon with caper-butter cream sauce, Koukoulis says.

We’re traditionalists and started our meal with beef, veal, and pork meatballs in tomato sauce—a bowl of deliciousness topped with dabs of whipped ricotta and fried basil.

We also dug into a mozzarella Caprese, a test of any kitchen, especially at the height of tomato season. It was a success with ruby red slices interspersed with fresh mozzarella and ribbons of basil, capturing the colors of the Italian flag.

Our entrees were also a pleasure. We were smitten with the scallop risotto tossed with shaved prosciutto and tomatoes, crisscrossed with stalks of lightly charred asparagus. The eggplant Parmigiana, served with spaghettini, also struck the right chords, except we would have been happier with less tomato sauce. If you can squeeze in dessert, go for the miniature cannoli with ricotta and chocolate-chip cream.

Koukoulis, who is a partner in Uncle’s Hawaiian Grindz in Fallston and Craft American Eatery in Severna Park, calls Mezzanotte his “crown jewel.” “It’s a special place,” he says. “Restaurants are like children. They require attention and time.”

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CAFÉ MEZZANOTTE 760 Ritchie Hwy., Severna Park, 410-647-1100. HOURS: Sun. 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Mon.-Thurs. 11 a.m.-10 p.m. Fri.-Sat. 11 a.m.-11 p.m. Lounge open until midnight daily. PRICES: Appetizers, soups, and salads: $7-17; entrees: $16-34.

OPEN

La Calle: Chef Valentino Sandoval unveiled his modern Mexican cantina in the 10 South Street building downtown earlier this week. The menu reflects the chef’s Mexican roots, while also fusing the global techniques—from French and American to Italian and seafood—that he learned while working under the likes of Marc Vetri and Michelin-rated chef Walter Abrams in Philadelphia before moving to Charm City. Reserve one of the dark wood tables to enjoy dishes like Tijuana Caesar salad, crab empanadas with corn and Oaxaca cheese, oyster mushroom quesadillas, barbacoa tacos with guacamole, and pan-seared salmon with fava beans and huitlacoche (Mexican truffle) aioli. 10 South St. 667-312-2964

Suya Spot: This Randallstown favorite is bringing its authentic Nigerian fare to the burgeoning dining scene in Owings Mills. Suya Spot will cut the ribbon at its second location in the mixed-use Metro Centre development on Friday, July 27. Expect to see chef/owner Fola Jinadu whipping up delicacies including catfish pepper soup, spicy flamed goat, peppered snail, and, of course, the namesake suya (meat skewers) in varieties like shrimp, chicken, fish, and beef. 10309 Grand Central Ave. Ste. 104

COMING SOON

Le Comptoir du Vin: Ever since the baby-sized Bottega relocated to larger digs down the street last year, Station North locals have missed feasting on Tuscan specialties in the cozy dining room. But now, two former Bottega employees are reopening the original Maryland Avenue space—this time as a French wine bar. This fall, chef Will Mester (formerly of Woodberry Kitchen) and his partner Rosemary Liss plan to open Le Comptoir du Vin, which is French for “the wine counter.” The duo recently told the Baltimore Business Journal that they will focus on pairing staples like pâté, roast duck, steak, and chicken with worldly wines from “lesser known regions.” 1709 Maryland Ave.

Tiki Lee’s: In the two years, since rebranding from its former concept Saute, Lee’s Pint and Shell has become one of Canton’s favorite corner bars. (Locals have come to love the famous 50-cent oysters during happy hour, $15 lobster dinners on Sundays, and massive Shuckin’ in the Street block parties.) Now, boaters will be happy to hear that the seafood concept is expanding with a sister spot along the water in Sparrows Point. Located at North Point Cove off of Morse Lane, the dock bar is expected to open this fall, highlighting spinoffs of the grub offered at Lee’s in Canton and—judging by its name—plenty of tiki drinks to go around. 4309 Shore Drive, Sparrows Point.

CH-CH CHANGES

Cafe Mezzanotte: A massive makeover is in the works at this Italian outpost in Severna Park. The restaurant, which dates back to the ’70s, will close for renovations on July 30. Come September, it will be completely revamped to feature an expanded floor plan with new furniture, color schemes, lighting, and interior decor. Along with the new look, the restaurant will debut more than 20 new menu items and an updated beverage lineup at the grand reopening. 760 Ritchie Highway, Severna Park. 410-647-1100

EPICUREAN EVENTS

7/28: Trifecta Food Truck & Music Festival

This Saturday, the Trifecta festival returns to the Timonium Fairgrounds offering local eats, drinks, and live music all in one place. Chow down on grub from more than 35 local food trucks (think the likes of Gypsy Queen, Kommie Pig, and Farm to Charm) while jamming to a rockin’ lineup featuring The Herd of Main Street, Kelly Bell Band, and Steal Your Peach—an Allman Brothers and Grateful Dead tribute band. Plus, there will be more than 40 craft vendors, inflatable attractions for the kiddos, and the annual pie-eating contest with Rodney Henry of Dangerously Delicious Pies. 2200 York Rd. 12-9 p.m. $15.

7/28: Beat the Clock Happy Hour at Parts & Labor
Arrive at this Remington hangout early to take advantage of discounted Old Oriole Park beers from Peabody Heights Brewing. Cans will start at 25 cents at 11 a.m., and the cost will double every hour until it reaches regular price. If you’re not a beer person, enjoy boozy snowballs, Jell-O shots, and bourbon specials until 4 p.m. Of course, there will also be specialty eats like Sloppy Joes and Italian sausages on the grill outside. 2600 N. Howard St. 11 a.m.- 4p.m. 443-873-8887

SHARK WEEK SPECIALS

Frazier’s on the Avenue: Tune into the Discovery Channel shenanigans from this Hampden dive, which is celebrating accordingly with aqua-themed food and drink deals all week long. Sip $4 Heavy Seas Loose Cannon and Union Skipjack drafts while enjoying $10 food specials including fish tacos with avocado sour cream, salmon cake sliders with lemon-dill tartar, and beer-battered ahi tuna bites with fries. 919 W. 36th St. 410-662-4914

Shark Week Party at Jailbreak Brewing: On Friday, July 27, head to the Jailbreak taproom in Laurel to catch up on the “Shark Week” specials before a special screening of Jaws at 7 p.m. Fittingly, the party will also feature beer-and-bite deals like the brewery’s cherry cream ale paired with shark tacos. 9445 Washington Blvd. Ste. F. Laurel. 7-11 p.m. 443-435-9699

Nacho Mama’s: The Towson location of this Tex-Mex cantina is getting in on the fun with a special hubcap margarita. Grab a group and sip on the blue “Shark Bite Hubcap,” complete with a gummy shark, plastic swimmer figurines, and a splash of grenadine—for a scene straight out of Amity. 2 W. Pennsylvania Ave. Towson. 443-673-0069