The Bolton Hill district continues to remake itself into an inviting cloister for residents and visitors alike. Narrower driving lanes, well-marked crosswalks, new curbs, and a dedicated bike lane have tamed Mt. Royal Avenue’s traffic, rendering it less of a speedway and more of a promenade. The tendrils of new openings probe this revitalized block, and Noona’s is the latest arrival.

Owner Phil Han’s credits include the Asian-inflected Dooby’s on North Charles and laid-back cocktail bar Sugarvale, as well as Fat Tiger and Old Boy’s in the newly renovated Broadway Market. Noona’s brings an Italian-inspired menu to students and longtime Bolton Hill residents alike, without white-tablecloth prices. On our visit, we were welcomed by an airy space with a minimalist aesthetic accented with cool metals, warm woods, and restrained dashes of color.

From bar stools to high tops to banquettes to outdoor tables, we had our pick of seating options. We took our seats inside and checked out the menu while sipping inventive cocktails, then began our meal with two small plates. We were delighted by fava beans in the farro salad, accompanied by roasted turnips, earthy sorrel, and bright pickled ramps. We also enjoyed the roasted broccoli’s interplay between zesty lemon accents and piquant tellicherry peppers.

As we polished off these delicious starters, we were enticed by the pizzas passing by, ultimately indulging in The Bambino. A toothsome and satisfying sourdough crust provided the foundation for a succulent dance of flavors—juicy fennel sausage, red onion, creamy ricotta, and spicy honey. We loved this spirited combination and were tempted to polish off the whole pie right there, but other plates beckoned to us, starting with the soft crab special.

This was offered as a sandwich or on its own, and we opted for the naked crab. Our crustacean arrived lightly battered and fried and accompanied by tartar sauce. The combination was beautiful in its simplicity and left us wanting another. Instead, we went with the roasted pork belly.

Here, chef Cai Lindeman (formerly of the Michelin-rated The Dabney in Washington, D.C.) revealed his understated creativity and sense of humor. Richly fatty pork belly arrived on a bed of charred cucumber, pickled mustard seeds, grilled onions, and radicchio. A dash of vinegar bound all these flavors together in a playful interpretation of a frankfurter accompanied with pickles, relish, and mustard. We wrapped our meal up with a sinful slab of lemon pound cake garnished with basil-infused blackberry compote.

Noona’s offers the wholesome yet uncomplicated casual dining that Baltimore needs—unfussy presentations, bright flavors, reasonable prices, and the deft hand of a good chef to bring them together. We’d like to see a bit more Italian-inspired focus on the wine list to support the flavors coming from the kitchen, but that’s a minor quibble for a restaurant with no fine-dining aspirations.

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NOONA’S 1203 W. Mt. Royal Ave. 410-424-0857. HOURS: Sun. 11 a.m.-3 p.m., 5-9 p.m.; Tues.-Wed. 5-9 p.m.; Thurs.-Fri. 5-10 p.m.; Sat. 11 a.m.-3 p.m., 5-9 p.m. PRICES: Small plates: $7-10; pizza and entrees: $11-15; desserts: $3.50-8. AMBIANCE: Trendy casual.

OPEN

Mason’s Famous Lobster Rolls: This Annapolis staple changed the game when it brought its signature lobster rolls to Belvedere Square in 2017. The Northern expansion was so well received, that Mason’s has now debuted a second Baltimore outpost in the Inner Harbor. Founder Dan Beck, a veteran seafood buyer who spent more than 20 years getting to know New England lobstermen, packs Mason’s buttery buns with hearty chunks of meat hauled from the waterways of Maine. The new Harborplace eatery features rolls served both classic (warm with melted butter) or salad (chilled meat with mayo, celery, and lemon) style, along with lobster mac and cheese and classic clam chowder. Mason’s adds a much-needed dining option to the Inner Harbor area, which lost Five Guys, M&S Grill, Noodles & Co., and Brio Tuscan Grill all within the past year. 201 E. Pratt St. 443-453-9664

NEWS

Bmore Licks: As temperatures creep up into the 60s this week, we couldn’t have asked for a better time for this Patterson Park sweets shop to reopen for the season. Bmore Licks took its annual winter hiatus after the holidays to test new recipes and spruce up the interior. Now, it’s back just in time for spring with plenty of soft-serve, snowballs, donuts, dessert nachos, and ice cream scoops to go around. Among the new featured flavors to look out for is the St. Patrick’s Day-inspired “Magically Delicious,” made with a sweet cream base and lots of colorful Lucky Charms marshmallows. 2437 Eastern Ave. 410-732-5425

NextAct Cinema at The Pikes: Pikesville locals were ecstatic when the landmark Pikes Theatre, one of the oldest in the area with roots dating back to 1938, reopened in full force earlier this month. Now operating as NextAct Cinema, the renovated facility boasts two intimate screening rooms, stadium seating, accompanying plush blankets, a full lobby bar, and updated concession areas with digital menu screens. Perhaps the greatest perk: guests who arrive 30 minutes prior to showtime can order wine, beer, popcorn, candy, or a full meal from the adjacent Pikes Cinema Bar and Grill to have delivered straight to their seats. The menu at includes quick-turnaround bites such as sliders, personal pizzas, quesadillas, soups, salads, and chicken tenders. The first wave of showings includes Captain Marvel, Us, and How to Train Your Dragon: The Hidden World. 921 Reisterstown Rd. 443-548-3783

COMING SOON

Char’d City: As its name implies, wood-fired fare will steal the spotlight at this new Hamilton restaurant. Expected to open in the former home of Clementine on Harford Road this spring, the neighborhood spot from owners Sindee Gibson and Yassine Rhamdhnia will offer house-made pizzas alongside other gluten-free, paleo, vegetarian, and vegan selections. Specifically, the menu will fuse Southern Italian flavors with North African recipes inspired by Rhamdhinia’s roots in Tunisia. A grand opening could be on the horizon as soon as next month. 5402 Harford Rd. 443-760-1501

Pizza Palace: Speaking of pizza, this new spot is slated to open any day now in Federal Hill. The Light Street space will stay open until 2 a.m. on weekends, so we can only expect that it will soon become a favorite of Federal Hill revelers in need of fuel after last call. In addition to hot subs and regular red sauce pies, the menu also lists specialty options like a Philly cheesesteak pizza and a Greek version with tzatziki sauce. 1538 Light St. 410-244-0444

Das Bier Haus: Pizza Palace takes over the former home of Fornicolli’s, an Italian concept that was briefly run by the owners of Das Bier Haus next door. Soon after they closed the pizza shop, management also shuttered the German beer hall while working to resolve structural issues that have plagued the building throughout the years. “A lot of the problems that made the previous businesses in this location fail have come back to haunt the place,” reads a January post to Das Bier Haus’ Facebook page. “It has taken away from our core values as a business of customer service, inventory, and overall consistency.” Here’s hoping Das Bier Haus reopens soon after its new neighbor Pizza Palace joins the scene. 1542 Light St.

CHEF CH-CH CHANGES

Hotel Revival: As Mt. Vernon’s newest hotel approaches its first anniversary in April, the food and beverage team is welcoming some new faces. Chef Scott Hines, formerly of B&O American Brasserie inside the Hotel Monaco, has been brought on as the new executive chef. Simultaneously, Revival has appointed new food and beverage director Lindsay Chapon—a Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts grad who has racked up a decade’s worth of experience at hotels throughout the country. Together, the two will spearhead seasonal menus for the restaurant’s all-day cafe Square Meal, rooftop bar Topside, and private karaoke rooms. 101 W. Monument St. 410-727-7101

Noona’s: This Bolton Hill newbie recently debuted its spring menu highlighting house-made pizzas, abruzzo meatballs, pork belly rillette, and ricotta gnocchi. Not only does the new menu mark Noona’s first seasonal rotation since opening, but it’s also the first to premiere under the helm of new chef Cai Lindeman. The chef is an alum of Michelin-rated The Dabney in Washington, D.C., and also known as the brains behind the Burnt Coat pop-up—which served its locally sourced dishes at spots like R. House and the former New America Diner. The farm-to-table ethos will be translated into the menu at Noona’s, which makes use of baby radishes from Karma Farm in Monkton, local Keepwell vinegars, free-range pork belly from Liberty Delight Farms in Reisterstown, and Lindeman’s own foraged spicebush berries. 410-424-0857

Sagamore Pendry Baltimore: Chef Andrew Carmellini’s NoHo Hospitality Group has brought new blood into the kitchens of this luxe hotel in Fells Point. Now overseeing the property’s Italian-influenced Rec Pier Chop House and whiskey bar The Cannon Room is chef Robert McGrattan. His resume includes 14 years of experience behind the line at acclaimed properties such as Nashville’s Hutton Hotel and The Westin Charlotte in North Carolina. He brings culinary knowledge and skills that have also awarded him the opportunity to cook alongside all-stars Edward Lee, Josiah Citrin, and Ken Frank at multiple James Beard House dinners. 1715 Thames St. 443-552-1400

EPICUREAN EVENTS

3/21: Fogo and Friends
Everyman Theatre is teaming up with Fogo de Chão in the Inner Harbor to host this special dinner-and-a-show event inspired by its current production Dinner With Friends. In addition to parking and round-trip transportation to the restaurant, guests will enjoy one free drink, endless prime cuts of meat, Fogo’s bottomless salad bar, coffee, and dessert before heading back to the theater to see the play. A portion of all proceeds will benefit Everyman’s future productions. 315 W. Fayette St. $95.50. 410-752-2208

3/26: Cosima Turns Three
To celebrate its third anniversary, Cosima at Mill No. 1 in Hampden is hosting a special three-course dinner with three options for each section. Chef Donna Crivello will pay homage to the restaurant’s run with Sicilian specialties, as well as dishes that have been customer favorites since it opened. Offerings to look out for will include baked ricotta gnocchi, grilled swordfish, stuffed eggplant with red peppers and marinara, and the classic Sicilian doughnuts rolled in cinnamon sugar. 3000 Falls Rd. $66. 443-708-7352