What makes a great neighborhood restaurant? It’s a delicate combination of factors, to be sure. The setting needs to be welcoming, but not so casual that it can’t accommodate the odd special occasion. The food needs to have broad appeal, but still be interesting enough to warrant repeat visits. And the service needs to be efficient without sacrificing warmth. If a restaurant can meet all three of these objectives, it could be a contender.

We had reason to ponder this question after a recent dinner with friends at Char’d City, a new wood-fired pizza place in Hamilton. Open since September in the space formerly occupied by Clementine—once the gold standard in Baltimore neighborhood restaurants—Char’d City seems to be aiming for that same sweet spot.

Chef Yassine Rmadhnia, a native of Tunisia, and his wife, Sindee Gibson—both veterans of Baltimore’s hospitality industry—have altered the space with dark wood paneling, low lighting, a piano for the occasional live performance, and an open kitchen that showcases the restaurant’s wood-fired oven that burns at 900 degrees and cranks out pizzas in 90 seconds.

Those pies—with appropriately charred crusts—form the basis of the compact menu, which is rounded out with strombolis and a smattering of Tunisian-inspired dishes. We tried four pizzas—the crab-topped Charm City Pie, the mushroom-laden Tartufo, the spicy Sopressata Picante, and a classic Margherita—and all were tasty, though some flavor combinations succeeded better than others.

Best of the bunch was the Tartufo with its creamy base of ricotta and mozzarella, accented by the umami of black truffles and the zing of garlic and lemon zest.

Less successful was the Sopressata Picante, which was distinguished by the inspired use of harissa instead of tomato sauce but burdened by thick slabs of sopressata. A thinner, more neutral meat topping, like prosciutto, may have worked better. As for the Charm City Pie—a somewhat odd mix of mozzarella, ricotta, and Parmesan cheeses, Maryland blue crab, and cherry tomatoes (why?)—let’s just say that Matthew’s Pizza’s title of best crab pie in Baltimore remains safe.

The most impressive dish we tried wasn’t pizza at all, but an appetizer straight from Rmadhnia’s Tunisian heritage. The Tajine el Bey—a sort of Tunisian shepherd’s pie that layers ground beef, lamb, spinach, and ricotta—was a knockout: savory, flavorful, but somehow still light. It made us wish that Rmadhnia and Gibson would add more Tunisian-inspired plates to the menu. Minor menu quibbles aside, we have high hopes for Char’d City as a neighborhood favorite, mostly because of how fun it was to eat there.

]The restaurant has no liquor license, so alcohol is BYOB, and this helps keep the vibe relaxed and the bill affordable. The big-hearted service reinforces the gaiety. When one of our table’s half-eaten pies accidentally crashed to the ground, staff insisted on making a new one at no charge, proving that pizza can be replaced, but there’s no substitute for neighborly kindness.

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›› CHAR’D CITY 5402 Harford Road, 443-760- 1501. Wed.-Thurs. 5-10 p.m., Fri. 5-11 p.m., Sat. 11 a.m.-11 p.m., Sun. 11-8 p.m.

OPEN

Cazbar Columbia: Howard County diners can now experience the same authentic Turkish cuisine—and weekend belly-dancing shows—that Charm City locals have enjoyed in Mt. Vernon for years. The North Charles Street staple has expanded with a second location in Columbia, which officially opened its doors late last month. Decorated with textured wallpaper, comfy lounge chairs, and glowing lanterns, the spinoff highlights Cazbar’s signature mezzes and kebabs. Standout entrees include Turkish beef dumplings with garlic butter, eggplant stuffed with caramelized onions and pine nuts, and flaky baklava topped with toasted pistachios.

Love at First Bite Cafe: The Locust Point shop that was formerly Hoof Cafe on Fort Avenue is now home to this all-day kitchen from husband-and-wife duo Antonio and JosLynn Jones. The owners, who previously operated a soul food restaurant in Northeast Baltimore, specialize in comfort foods like crab pretzels, shrimp and broccoli pasta, and smothered pulled turkey over rice. The cafe is also a go-to for sweet tooth lovers, who can indulge in loaded ice cream sundaes topped with everything from Oreo crumbles to a whole Nutty Buddy ice cream cone.

COMING SOON

Bambao: Come October, diners will be able to sip bubble tea while learning origami in Harbor East. The long-vacant home of Manchurian Rice Co. on the corner of Aliceanna Street and Central Avenue will soon be transformed into this Asian-fusion concept that aims to offer diners a “sense and taste of zen.” Highlights at Bambao will include an array of bubble teas, rice and buddha bowls, and steamed bun sandwiches. In keeping with the wellness mantra, the spot will also feature family-friendly origami classes and collaborate with local yoga studios to host community events.

Char’d City: A grand opening date for this long-awaited addition to the Hamilton dining scene is set for this Friday, September 6. Husband-and-wife owners Yassine Rmadhnia and Sindee Gibson have turned the former home of Clementine on Harford Road into a cozy BYOB spot featuring warm woods, rustic decor, and a custom wood-fired oven that churns out the duo’s take on a classic Neapolitan pizzas. Char’d City will also serve colorful salads, vegan entrees, and seafood dishes that make use of Maryland crab. The menu is meant to fuse Southern Italian recipes with North African flavors inspired by Rhamdhnia’s roots in Tunisia.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

Sept. 18, 20, 23, 26: Ekiben’s End of Summer BBQ Pop-Up Series
The summer temperatures might be starting to drop, but things are definitely heating up in the Ekiben kitchen. On the heels of launching a recurring Taiwanese noodle bar pop-up, owners Steve Chu and Ephrem Abebe are collaborating with a group of stellar chefs to host four can’t-miss lunch pop-ups at their Fells Point restaurant throughout September. The end of summer barbecue-themed series will kick off with visiting chef Johnny Spero of Reverie in Washington, D.C. on September 18, and continue with the team from farmers’ market favorite Blacksauce Kitchen on September 20, James Beard Award nominee Jerome Grant of Sweet Home Cafe inside the National Museum of African American History and Culture on September 23, and our own Carlos Raba of Clavel on September 26. Menu details haven’t been released as of yet, but judging by Ekiben’s track record of creative collaborations, we can only anticipate that the dishes will be epic.

SHUT

The Dizz: Remington locals were heartbroken to hear that this decades-old neighborhood fixture had suddenly closed its doors earlier this week. “We would like to thank all our wonderful customers for your support over the years,” co-owner Thomas L. Basta Jr. wrote in a Facebook message announcing the closure Wednesday. Last fall, the Basta family put their restaurant on the market, but ultimately decided against selling. “This place has been here forever,” longtime general manager Elaine Stevens told us in May. “I think [the owners] were ready to just get out of the business, but then they saw how much it means to everybody and that made them say, ‘You know what, we’re not giving up. We’re going to hang in there.’” Unfortunately, the owners have once again decided it’s time to move on. Throughout the years, the 85-year-old staple gained a reputation for its famous burgers, crab soup, and one of the best BLTs in the city.

OPEN

Mason’s Famous Lobster Rolls: This Annapolis staple changed the game when it brought its signature lobster rolls to Belvedere Square in 2017. The Northern expansion was so well received, that Mason’s has now debuted a second Baltimore outpost in the Inner Harbor. Founder Dan Beck, a veteran seafood buyer who spent more than 20 years getting to know New England lobstermen, packs Mason’s buttery buns with hearty chunks of meat hauled from the waterways of Maine. The new Harborplace eatery features rolls served both classic (warm with melted butter) or salad (chilled meat with mayo, celery, and lemon) style, along with lobster mac and cheese and classic clam chowder. Mason’s adds a much-needed dining option to the Inner Harbor area, which lost Five Guys, M&S Grill, Noodles & Co., and Brio Tuscan Grill all within the past year. 201 E. Pratt St. 443-453-9664

NEWS

Bmore Licks: As temperatures creep up into the 60s this week, we couldn’t have asked for a better time for this Patterson Park sweets shop to reopen for the season. Bmore Licks took its annual winter hiatus after the holidays to test new recipes and spruce up the interior. Now, it’s back just in time for spring with plenty of soft-serve, snowballs, donuts, dessert nachos, and ice cream scoops to go around. Among the new featured flavors to look out for is the St. Patrick’s Day-inspired “Magically Delicious,” made with a sweet cream base and lots of colorful Lucky Charms marshmallows. 2437 Eastern Ave. 410-732-5425

NextAct Cinema at The Pikes: Pikesville locals were ecstatic when the landmark Pikes Theatre, one of the oldest in the area with roots dating back to 1938, reopened in full force earlier this month. Now operating as NextAct Cinema, the renovated facility boasts two intimate screening rooms, stadium seating, accompanying plush blankets, a full lobby bar, and updated concession areas with digital menu screens. Perhaps the greatest perk: guests who arrive 30 minutes prior to showtime can order wine, beer, popcorn, candy, or a full meal from the adjacent Pikes Cinema Bar and Grill to have delivered straight to their seats. The menu at includes quick-turnaround bites such as sliders, personal pizzas, quesadillas, soups, salads, and chicken tenders. The first wave of showings includes Captain Marvel, Us, and How to Train Your Dragon: The Hidden World. 921 Reisterstown Rd. 443-548-3783

COMING SOON

Char’d City: As its name implies, wood-fired fare will steal the spotlight at this new Hamilton restaurant. Expected to open in the former home of Clementine on Harford Road this spring, the neighborhood spot from owners Sindee Gibson and Yassine Rhamdhnia will offer house-made pizzas alongside other gluten-free, paleo, vegetarian, and vegan selections. Specifically, the menu will fuse Southern Italian flavors with North African recipes inspired by Rhamdhinia’s roots in Tunisia. A grand opening could be on the horizon as soon as next month. 5402 Harford Rd. 443-760-1501

Pizza Palace: Speaking of pizza, this new spot is slated to open any day now in Federal Hill. The Light Street space will stay open until 2 a.m. on weekends, so we can only expect that it will soon become a favorite of Federal Hill revelers in need of fuel after last call. In addition to hot subs and regular red sauce pies, the menu also lists specialty options like a Philly cheesesteak pizza and a Greek version with tzatziki sauce. 1538 Light St. 410-244-0444

Das Bier Haus: Pizza Palace takes over the former home of Fornicolli’s, an Italian concept that was briefly run by the owners of Das Bier Haus next door. Soon after they closed the pizza shop, management also shuttered the German beer hall while working to resolve structural issues that have plagued the building throughout the years. “A lot of the problems that made the previous businesses in this location fail have come back to haunt the place,” reads a January post to Das Bier Haus’ Facebook page. “It has taken away from our core values as a business of customer service, inventory, and overall consistency.” Here’s hoping Das Bier Haus reopens soon after its new neighbor Pizza Palace joins the scene. 1542 Light St.

CHEF CH-CH CHANGES

Hotel Revival: As Mt. Vernon’s newest hotel approaches its first anniversary in April, the food and beverage team is welcoming some new faces. Chef Scott Hines, formerly of B&O American Brasserie inside the Hotel Monaco, has been brought on as the new executive chef. Simultaneously, Revival has appointed new food and beverage director Lindsay Chapon—a Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts grad who has racked up a decade’s worth of experience at hotels throughout the country. Together, the two will spearhead seasonal menus for the restaurant’s all-day cafe Square Meal, rooftop bar Topside, and private karaoke rooms. 101 W. Monument St. 410-727-7101

Noona’s: This Bolton Hill newbie recently debuted its spring menu highlighting house-made pizzas, abruzzo meatballs, pork belly rillette, and ricotta gnocchi. Not only does the new menu mark Noona’s first seasonal rotation since opening, but it’s also the first to premiere under the helm of new chef Cai Lindeman. The chef is an alum of Michelin-rated The Dabney in Washington, D.C., and also known as the brains behind the Burnt Coat pop-up—which served its locally sourced dishes at spots like R. House and the former New America Diner. The farm-to-table ethos will be translated into the menu at Noona’s, which makes use of baby radishes from Karma Farm in Monkton, local Keepwell vinegars, free-range pork belly from Liberty Delight Farms in Reisterstown, and Lindeman’s own foraged spicebush berries. 410-424-0857

Sagamore Pendry Baltimore: Chef Andrew Carmellini’s NoHo Hospitality Group has brought new blood into the kitchens of this luxe hotel in Fells Point. Now overseeing the property’s Italian-influenced Rec Pier Chop House and whiskey bar The Cannon Room is chef Robert McGrattan. His resume includes 14 years of experience behind the line at acclaimed properties such as Nashville’s Hutton Hotel and The Westin Charlotte in North Carolina. He brings culinary knowledge and skills that have also awarded him the opportunity to cook alongside all-stars Edward Lee, Josiah Citrin, and Ken Frank at multiple James Beard House dinners. 1715 Thames St. 443-552-1400

EPICUREAN EVENTS

3/21: Fogo and Friends
Everyman Theatre is teaming up with Fogo de Chão in the Inner Harbor to host this special dinner-and-a-show event inspired by its current production Dinner With Friends. In addition to parking and round-trip transportation to the restaurant, guests will enjoy one free drink, endless prime cuts of meat, Fogo’s bottomless salad bar, coffee, and dessert before heading back to the theater to see the play. A portion of all proceeds will benefit Everyman’s future productions. 315 W. Fayette St. $95.50. 410-752-2208

3/26: Cosima Turns Three
To celebrate its third anniversary, Cosima at Mill No. 1 in Hampden is hosting a special three-course dinner with three options for each section. Chef Donna Crivello will pay homage to the restaurant’s run with Sicilian specialties, as well as dishes that have been customer favorites since it opened. Offerings to look out for will include baked ricotta gnocchi, grilled swordfish, stuffed eggplant with red peppers and marinara, and the classic Sicilian doughnuts rolled in cinnamon sugar. 3000 Falls Rd. $66. 443-708-7352