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	<title>deli &#8211; Baltimore Magazine</title>
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	<title>deli &#8211; Baltimore Magazine</title>
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		<title>Living Your Best Life in Retirement</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/special/living-your-best-life-in-retirement/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Megan McGaha]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 25 Jul 2022 15:03:47 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[55-and-over community]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[55+ community]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[a pool]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[active communities]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[activities]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[aging process]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[all activities]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[apartment]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[apartments]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[arrange trips]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[art classes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[art studio]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[assisted living]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Atrium Village]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[attractive surroundings]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bay]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[BayWoods]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bible study]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bistro]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bistros]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Blakehurst]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cafe]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cane]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[care]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[CCRC]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[choir]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[classes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[co-operative community]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Community College of Baltimore County]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[condominiums]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[condos]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[continuing education]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cook]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cruise ship]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[deli]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[den]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dining options]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[discussions]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dock]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[downsize]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[eating better]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[emotional well-being]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[equipment]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[exercise classes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[facilities]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[family center]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[finances]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fitness]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[five-minute walk to the water]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Four Seasons]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Four Seasons on Kent Island]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fun and safe environment]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[games]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[gardens]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[grow flowers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[grow vegetables]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[guestroom]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[gym]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[happy hour]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[happy hours]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[healthy food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[healthy retirees]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hospitality lounge]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[hot tubs]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[housekeeping]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[in-house physical therapy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[independent living]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[indoor pools]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[informal choices]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[instructor-led classes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Kent Island]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[kitchen remodel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[lawyer]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[lease]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[lectures]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[library]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[LLC]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[long-range retirement plan]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[love to travel]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[master bedroom on the first floor]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[memory care]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[monthly lease]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[movie theater]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[movies]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[no buy-in fees]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[no commitment of retirement assets]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[no entry fees]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[nursing care]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[on-site rehabilitation therapy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[one location]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[one meal per day]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ordained minister]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Outdoor Dining]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Owings Mills]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[permanent home]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pet friendly]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[physical]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pickleball]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[planned trips to local events]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[pub]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[putting green]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Real Broker]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rehab]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[renovation]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[resident owned]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[restaurant-style dining venues]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[safeguarded]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[salon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[screened-in porch]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[second bedroom]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Senior Lifestyle]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[senior living experience]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[services]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[single-family]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[single-family homes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[single-family units]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[skilled nursing home]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[social activities]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[socializing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[St. John's College scholars]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[steam rooms]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[strong sense of community]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sunrise]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[swimming]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tai chi]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[three meals per day]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[trainers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[trees]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[trivia]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[twice a month]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[two-and-half-bath]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[two-bedroom]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[vacation home]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[walk]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[walker]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[walking trails]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[wellness center]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[woodworking]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[yoga]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[zumba]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?post_type=special&#038;p=122614</guid>

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			<p>Are you thinking about your next move? Maybe you’re empty nesters and you hardly use half the rooms in your house. Maybe you want to move, but not too far from your kids and grandchildren. Or maybe you’re thinking ahead and want a place that offers independent living with more care in the future. Luckily our area offers plenty of choices.</p>

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			<p><strong>Purchasing A CCRC</strong><br />
Former astronaut 75-year-old Mary Cleave had a very exciting career. She went into space twice on Atlantis, and worked at NASA-Goddard and NASA Headquarters in Washington, D.C. “When I went to work at Goddard, my cousin suggested I move to Annapolis,” she says. Cleave lived in her house for 30 years. “I would have kept living there, but one night my hearing aids were out when the low battery on the fire alarm kept beeping, and I never heard it. My sister happened to be visiting and said, ‘You can’t live alone anymore, it isn’t safe.’”</p>
<p>“Since I love the water, I knew I wanted to stay in Annapolis,” she continues. After visiting several communities and talking to people at each, Cleave decided on Bay-Woods of Annapolis, a Continuing Care Retirement Community (CCRC).</p>
<blockquote><p>
“In the morning I sit and watch the sunrise over the Bay Bridge. . .”
</p></blockquote>
<p>Cleave moved in 2017. What attracted her to BayWoods is that it is a resident-owned-and-run co-operative community where residents provide vital input on operations. (In Maryland there are only two co-op CCRCs.) Also a must for Cleave was that it was pet-friendly. “I think for people who live alone, a pet is very important,” says Cleave, who lives with her dog Brinx.</p>
<p>“In the morning I sit and watch the sunrise over the Bay Bridge,” says Cleave, who has a one-bedroom with a patio. “It’s a great way to start the day.” Although downsizing can be difficult, Cleave found getting rid of a lot of her stuff to be liberating. And when she has company, she reserves a guestroom at BayWoods.</p>
<p>Elizabeth O’Conner, director of marketing and sales at Blakehurst, says, “Today’s residents are very active.” A gym is a must-have, and many CCRCs have more than equipment and classes. They may offer trainers, indoor pools, hot tubs, steam rooms, walking trails, a putting green—even gardens where residents can grow flowers and vegetables.</p>
<p>BayWoods has plenty of activities and amenities, some unique to that community, such as swimming in the bay off their dock. Cleave says, “With the gym right here, I take classes three times a week and do tai chi once a week. And Brinx, my ‘trainer,’ makes sure we get out and walk,” laughs Cleave.</p>

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			<p><strong>Is a CCRC Right For You?</strong><br />
A CCRC is a type of retirement community that is part independent living, part assisted living, and part skilled nursing home. Today, many communities offer memory care too, and on-site rehabilitation therapy. According to AARP, a CCRC offers a tiered approach to the aging process, accommodating residents’ changing needs. Upon entering, healthy adults can reside independently in single-family homes, apartments, or condominiums. When assistance with everyday activities becomes necessary, they can move into assisted living, memory care, or nursing care facilities. These communities give older adults the option to live in one location for the duration of their lives, with much of their future care already figured out.</p>
<blockquote><p>
“I came in needing a walker, graduated to a cane and, thanks to the in-house physical therapy, I now need nothing.”
</p></blockquote>
<p>When you choose a facility, it’s also important to know what type of contract it offers. These contracts can be very complex; treat this decision like you would any major investment, including seeking assistance from a lawyer or someone very knowledgeable. In addition, you should determine that the finances of the CCRC are healthy so that your present and future services are safeguarded.</p>
<p>Ray, 83, and Phoebe Sachs, 80, are no strangers to moving. “We’ve lived in New York, Chicago, Delaware, D.C., and moved about 10 or 12, times,” says Ray. While living in a Baltimore condo, with their three children living all over the country, the couple decided a CCRC would give them the future security they wanted. Their children agreed.</p>
<p>“We are very active and decided we’d make the move while we could participate in the activities and be part of the community,” says Ray. After checking out several CCRCs, they chose Blakehurst. “It had what we wanted—care if we need it, attractive surroundings, lots of activities including woodworking (where my wife is the only woman), walking trails, and we were able to make changes to the apartment.”</p>
<p>Making changes was very important to Phoebe, who was a builder and does interior design. “We made our second bedroom into a library and totally redid the kitchen,” she says. “We can cook, but they do such a remarkable job with the food and it’s so convenient, we don’t.”</p>
<p>“Our new appliances aren’t getting much of a workout,” admits Ray.</p>
<p>Typically, residents in independent living get at least one meal a day. In assisted living, memory care, and nursing, there are three meals provided. “At BayWoods the food is fabulous and healthy,” says Cleave. “I’m eating better than I ever did. And I don’t have to think about what I’m going to make for dinner, shop for it, and cook it.” Many CCRCs offer a variety of dining options beyond a dining room, including informal choices such as a café, bistro, deli, or pub. Some even have outdoor dining.</p>

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			<p><strong>A Rental CCRC</strong><br />
Kathryn Lewis, age 72 and retired from working for the State of Maryland, was living with her son and his family. But after she had a knee replacement and ended up in rehab, she knew she could not return to her son’s house and its stairs. “The staff at the rehab facility suggested I consider moving to the Atrium Village in Owings Mills,” she says. Lewis moved there in 2021.</p>
<p>“I came in needing a walker, graduated to a cane and, thanks to the in-house physical therapy, I now need nothing. What was so great was that I didn’t need to leave Atrium Village and didn’t need family to take me to therapy,” says Lewis. As an ordained minister, Lewis loves volunteering at Atrium Village and doing activities: Bible study, choir, trivia, happy hour, movies, games, discussions, and exercise classes including Zumba and yoga.</p>
<p>At Atrium Village there are no entry or buy-in fees, or a commitment of retirement assets, as with most senior living communities. The cost of an apartment, dining options, all activities, fitness, housekeeping, and other services is included in a monthly lease.</p>
<p>Atrium Village has independent, assisted, and memory care. And it just underwent a $13 million renovation. Angela Spence, senior divisional director of sales and marketing for Senior Lifestyle, the company that manages Atrium Village, was involved in the renovation. According to Spence, the multimillion-dollar renovation is part of a 20-year anniversary transformation to create a next generation senior living experience.</p>
<p>“There are still some people who think of senior living communities as nursing homes. We need to overcome that stigma. Since COVID and with the renovation, our goal is to have programs that help residents get back into life and find a purpose. Living well is all about having a purpose,” says Spence.</p>
<p>Anyone visiting many of today’s CCRCs would never think of them as nursing homes. Many who live there say it’s like living on a cruise ship; it just doesn’t move.</p>
<p>Part of the renovation at Atrium Village included an array of new services and upscale amenities. In addition to two restaurant-style dining venues, there are two new bistros, a library, wellness center, salon, art studio, hospitality lounge, movie theater, and family center.</p>
<p>Happy hour is also big at many CCRCs. Spence says, “We added more happy hours after the residents requested them.”</p>
<p>Many of the CCRCs have continuing education. At BayWoods there are lectures given by neighboring St. John’s College scholars. Atrium Village partners with the Community College of Baltimore County to offer instructor-led classes.</p>
<p>CCRCs arrange trips, art classes and, yes, the list of activities and amenities goes on and on. But don’t worry, you can be as active as you want, or if you prefer a quieter experience, you can have that too. It’s all up to you.</p>

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			<p><strong>An Over-55 Community</strong><br />
The Weidmans, Hope, 70, and Tim, 69, were no strangers to life at a 55-and-over community. They had lived in one in New Jersey for seven years and loved it. “When I retired after 38 years of teaching, we decided to move to a place that would be fun. A 55-and-over community fits the bill,” says Hope.</p>
<p>But trips to visit their son and his family in Virgina became too much. “So we started looking. We checked out Delaware, Virginia, and Maryland. When we visited Four Seasons on Kent Island it was everything we wanted.” There were single-family units and condos, walking trails, a pool, pickleball, and, best of all, there were other people their age for socializing. The Weidmans moved into a two-bedroom, two-and-half-bath home with a den and screened-in porch in 2021.</p>
<p>According to Veronica Lawson, an associate broker at Real Broker, LLC, these communities are ready-made for like-minded individuals for whom physical and emotional well-being are key.<br />
Things like social activities and planned trips to local events create a strong sense of community that in turn create a fun and safe environment. Fifty-five-plus communities are becoming more and more popular as many healthy retirees look for active communities once retired.</p>
<p>And for some, buying before they retire is part of their long-range retirement plan. That was true for Gamini Dharmasena, 62, and his wife Desilva, 59, both scientists living in New Jersey. “We aren’t planning to retire for five years but thought prices would only keep going up. For my wife, who grew up in Sri Lanka, being by the water was a must. We checked out several places on the East Coast but were afraid of hurricanes in North Carolina,” says Gamini.</p>
<p>After filling out information online for Four Season on Kent Island, they got a call from a realtor. They visited and fell in love with the area and were attracted to a 55-plus active community with lots of activities and opportunities to be social.</p>
<p>The Dharmasenas purchased a single family, 3,500-square-foot home with the master bedroom on the first floor and a screened-in porch. It backs on trees and is a five-minute walk to the water. “Our 5,000-square-foot home on five acres is a lot to look after. When we retire, we’ll be ready to downsize,” says Gamini. Plus, they love to travel and won’t have to worry about the house. For now, the Dharmasenas plan to use it as a vacation home twice a month until it becomes their permanent home.</p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p><em>To learn more about retirement </em><em>options check out these </em><em>helpful websites:</em><br />
• <a href="http://aging.maryland.gov">aging.maryland.gov</a><br />
• <a href="http://continuingcarecommunities.org">continuingcarecommunities.org</a><br />
• <a href="http://aarp.org/caregiving/basics">aarp.org/caregiving/basics</a><br />
• <a href="http://seniorliving.org/continuing-careretirement-communities">seniorliving.org/continuing-careretirement-communities</a></p>

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<p><a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/special/living-your-best-life-in-retirement/" rel="nofollow">Source</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
					
		
		
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		<title>Review: Goldberg&#8217;s Bagels</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/review-goldbergs-bagels/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Lauren Cohen]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Apr 2020 13:26:27 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bagels]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[deli]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Goldberg's Bagels]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jewish delis]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[New York bagels]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Pikesville]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?post_type=article&#038;p=70332</guid>

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			<p><em>Editor&#8217;s Note: This review was published in our April issue pre-quarantine, but Goldberg&#8217;s <a href="http://goldbergsbagels.net/how_to_order.php" target="_blank" rel="noreferrer noopener">remains open</a> for curbside pickup, catering, and delivery until stay-at-home orders are lifted. </em></p>
<hr />
<p>On any given Sunday morning at Goldberg’s New York Bagels in Pikesville, you will see the trademark of a great bagel shop: The line. </p>
<p>At peak breakfast time, a baker’s dozen or more customers stand single file, just inside the store’s busy front door, waiting to place their order at a sturdy counter. Six everythings is my typical order. </p>
<p>“Two cinnamon raisins, two black Russians, and a small cream cheese, too,” the woman to my left says. We both shimmy down the line toward the cashier. The pace is hurried, so you better know what you want when it’s your turn, or risk getting the stink-eye from a rightfully impatient worker who wants to keep things moving. </p>
<p>He holds an open brown paper bag that’s asking be filled with what most everyone is here for: Bagels—boiled, baked O-shaped dough, firm on the outside, soft and chewy inside, and authentically New York in style, ready to be sliced and dressed to your liking.</p>
<p>I’ve lived in Baltimore for a decade, but as a native of Long Island—where bagels are in the blood—I feel qualified to judge. We won’t go as far as Goldberg’s straight-shooting, and sometimes brusque, owner Stanley Drebin, 65—an Orthodox Jew and certified public accountant who started the shop 22 years ago—when he proclaims, “My bagels are the best in the world.” But only because we haven’t tried all the others. </p>
<p>Even a guy from New York, where bagels first arrived in America with Jewish immigrants who came to the Big Apple in the late 19th century, will keep coming back to Reisterstown Road for the real thing. </p>
<p>It takes about 20 minutes for baker Robert Bagwandeen, from Jamaica (and not the one in New York), to make a round of bagels. The dough, shipped frozen from New Jersey, is laid out to rise. The baby bagels are then dropped in boiling water for one minute, then baked for another minute on a burlap-lined bagel board in the oven. Finally, they’re flipped to cook on the oven floor for 18 minutes more, until the right blend of crunch and chew is reached. </p>
<p>On first bite, you might notice a Goldberg’s bagel is particularly dense on the inside, maybe too much for some tastes. We don’t mind, and clearly we’re not alone. Drebin says he sells 1.5 million bagels in retail per year, even after a wild controversy—and a drop in business—a few years ago that included protests outside the store when it was revealed that Drebin, and at least one of his employees, supported Donald Trump. </p>
<p>Politics aside, we come for the food. And there are rich, hot soups (lentil is a good one), wraps, omelets, and whatever Kosher dish you could imagine. And any item is available anytime the store is open. </p>
<p>Just don’t expect to walk in during Shabbat—sundown Friday to sundown Saturday— and the Jewish high holidays. Goldberg’s is closed then, but in a beautiful acknowledgement of its customer base, it’s open from sundown to 1 a.m. on Saturdays. And the bagels, we can say, are just as good when it’s dark out.</p>
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<p><strong>GOLDBERG’S NEW YORK BAGELS </strong>1500 Reisterstown Rd., Pikesville, 410-415-7001. Hours: Sun. 6 a.m.-4 p.m., Mon.-Thurs. 6 a.m.-3 p.m., Fri. 6 a.m.- 2 p.m., Sat. night (after sundown) until 1 a.m.</p>

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		<title>Review: The Essen Room</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/review-the-essen-room/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jess Mayhugh]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 02 Feb 2018 08:30:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[deli]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jewish]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Pikesville]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[The Essen Room]]></category>
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			<p>While I can’t say for certain, I’m fairly sure that the idea of food guilt was first born at a Jewish deli—a place with matzo balls as big as billiard balls, inch-thick hot dogs, and sky-high sandwiches crowded with Brobdingnagian portions of pastrami, chopped liver, and Russian dressing. </p>
<p>Such is the case at The Essen Room, a new Jewish deli in Pikesville, whose slogan is: “Where size does matter!” and where there’s a place on the Wall of Shame (and a free meal) for anyone who can single-handedly consume in one sitting the G.B.M.F.—that’s great big mother f&#8212;er—a platter of corned beef, brisket, turkey, roast beef, and pastrami (usually something meant for three to four people). Then again, with food this good, guilt has no place at the table. Years back, owner Neil Parish moved to Cherry Hill, NJ, where he owns a sister spot, The Kibitz Room. </p>
<p>Luckily for us, he wanted to spread his New York-style deli love—and his “secret” house-made brown mustard—all the way back to the Baltimore area, where he was raised and still has family. Visit The Essen Room, on the site of a former Original Brooklyn Water Bagel Co., anytime during business hours, and prepare for a bit of organized chaos—clearly, Pikesville-ians have been starving for this for a long time.</p>

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			<p>With its white subway tile and row of salamis strung from the ceiling, this place will feel instantly familiar. For me, several pilgrimages to Essen were particularly personal. Dining at Essen, which means “eat” in Yiddish (and German), feels like a return to home, a safe, familiar harbor in uncertain times. At a time when the world feels upside-down, I can count on the fact that corned beef on rye with mustard is still the same staple I ate as a kid.</p>
<p>My biography, in fact, is written in the deli display cases. There’s the noodle kugel, with its fine egg noodles mixed with cottage cheese, sour cream, and sugar like my mom, Millie, made for every Jewish holiday. There’s the cow&#8217;s tongue that, much to my dismay, my Russian immigrant grandmother, Beila Salkoff, thought of as a delicacy, and the kippered salmon that reminds me of every bris, Kiddush, and shiva I ever attended. </p>
<p>Even if Eastern-European cuisine is not part of your heritage, there are so many things to love, from the giant menu with clever combinations, such as one creation with turkey, corned beef, and tongue with coleslaw and Russian dressing; and another of fries with brisket, fried onions, barbecue sauce, and cheddar cheese. To add to the authenticity, you’ll also find cans of classic Dr. Brown’s soda in the cold case and an all-you-can-eat pickle bar, including half-sours, sour tomatoes, and hot and spicy peppers.</p>
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			<p><strong>Onion Rings</strong></p>
<p>Order these spectacularly crispy, deep-fried marvels and we guarantee you’ll soon be shedding tears of joy. Eat them on their own or consider them as a crunchy companion to whatever else you order.</p>

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<p>Someone should write a love song about the pastrami reuben, with its thin, buttery ruby-red fatty folds of smoked meat served on lightly seeded rye bread and adorned with several slices of Swiss, a drizzle of Russian dressing, some spicy brown mustard, and a soupçon of sauerkraut. The whitefish salad sandwich also deserves high praise. Unlike many salads of its kind, which tend to be overly puréed with too much mayo, this version features fat chunks of flavorful fish and only a tad of mayo. The matzo ball soup, aka Jewish penicillin, more than lives up to its nickname, with house-made chicken stock, wide egg noodles, pieces of chicken, and feather-light matzo balls. </p>
<p>Then there’s the potato knish, a doughy snack stuffed with puréed potato, onion, and spices. Typically, knishes are little starch bombs fried in chicken fat. At Essen, which features eight different types of knishes, including one stuffed with hot dogs, the dough is like fine pastry and the filling is light instead of leaden. Knish pros will know to dip theirs in Neill’s house-made mustard to moisten them. </p>
<p>Cross the finish line of your meal properly and choose from among many promising desserts, including seven-inch-high carrot cakes, house-made cheese Danishes, and jelly-filled hamantaschen, traditionally eaten during the holiday of Purim, but available here year-round. I settled for a slice—make that a brick-sized slab—of babka, a type of Jewish coffee cake, swirling with chocolate and studded with nuts and raisins. </p>
<p>While the eminently friendly staff can feel harried at times, that only adds to Essen’s appeal. Order at the counter, and the food arrives at your table in a New York minute—which is a good thing, because you’ll need extra time to tackle whatever is on your plate. And there’s no shame in that.</p>

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