Review: With Forno, the DiPasquale’s Fam Reignites Their Old Space in Highlandtown

Mike Unger — Thu, 30 Oct 2025 20:24:12 +0000

The OG tasconi sandwich. —Photography by Justin Tsucalas

For more than a century, DiPasquale’s Italian Market served as an anchor in its thin slice of Highlandtown. When the beloved business moved about a mile away to Brewers Hill in 2021, the empty building left a noticeable void in the neighborhood.

Now, 3700 Gough Street is once again brimming with life—but you might not know it if you’re not an insider.

Fifteen hundred square feet of the building that once housed the market is now home to Forno, a speakeasy serving pizza, small plates, cocktails, beer, and wine. Save for a chalkboard near the front door, the exterior looks unchanged, and once you enter the building you might think you’re in the wrong place.

The front of the house gives the impression that the business moved out yesterday. There’s no host stand or employee to greet you. Other than a neon sign that says Forno—Italian for “oven”—and refrigerators filled with wine, the place looks abandoned. But behind a red curtain is a charming dining room with a smattering of tables and a few couches.

Forno is owned by the DiPasquale family, which won’t come as a surprise to anyone who’s eaten here. The food, like most everything at the 110 year-old market (now found in the bottom floor of the Porter apartment building as well as two other locations), is fresh, authentic, and outstanding.

Small plates include arancini, meatballs, and porchetta sliders, which are served on a pillowy roll with melted provolone and a spicy tomato jam that takes them to the next level. Fried artichokes atop a cacio pepe sauce were terrific. After finishing them off we kept the plate to dip our pizza crust in the remaining sauce.

We’ll get to the pizza in a moment but first let’s talk pasta. Amalfi Coast gnocchi was a special when we visited in June. The dumplings were soft, and the herbed pesto sauce was so good we kept the plate to dip our pizza crust in the remains. See a pattern here?

Three types of tasconi, basically an Italian pocket sandwich, are available as well. Their pizza dough is cooked in the pizza oven then stuffed with cold fillings—capicola, soppressata, roasted ham, provolone, peppers, and arugula for the OG variety.

But pizzas are the star here. The same imported oven that churned out pies for DiPasquale’s dining room back in the day continues to serve admirably. The crust is a perfect combination of doughy and charred, and the toppings are first-rate. The Margherita and the Scooch—hot soppressata, capicola, roasted peppers, prima donna cheese, peppadews—are among the most popular, but we opted for the Goat, with garlic, mozzarella, arugula, Calabrian hot honey, pistachio dust, and, of course, goat cheese. We’ve never tasted that combination of ingredients, and they made each bite more interesting than the last.

Between the no-fuss fare and a cocktail list heavy on Italian favorites like wine, spritzes and negronis, it’s no wonder that 3700 Gough Street has quickly become a neighborhood gathering spot. Again.

FORNO: 3700 Gough St., Highlandtown, 410-617-0455. HOURS: Thurs. 4 p.m.-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 4 p.m.-11 p.m., Sun. 4 p.m.-9 p.m. PRICES: Small plates: $9-16; salads: $9-11; tasconi: $16-17; pizzas: $14-20.

Source

Open & Shut: Between 2 Buns; Chaps Pit Beef; DiPasquale’s

Lauren Cohen — Tue, 29 Mar 2016 17:38:00 +0000

OPEN:

Grano Pasta Bar: This Hampden eatery, known for its DIY pastas and vegetarian varieties, opened a long-awaited spinoff in Federal Hill last week. The restaurant, which was recently featured on Food Network’s Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives (DDD), allows diners to mix and match their favorite noodles with sauces like classic vodka, pomodoro, and pesto with pecorino and walnuts. The new location, previously a Gyro Express, features both bar and window seating. 1043 S. Charles St., 443-869-3429

COMING SOON:

Between 2 Buns: Chef Andrew Cole of Hampden’s Corner Charcuterie Bar has already gained a loyal following with Cultured, his meat and cheese concept located in the center of Mt. Vernon Marketplace. Next month, Cole is expanding his presence in the market with the debut of this new artisanal burger stall. Between 2 Buns will focus on burgers made with local beef and gluten-free buns, house-made sausages, boozy milkshakes, and worldly takes on poutine—a traditional Canadian dish topping French fries with gravy and cheese curds. The new stall, which will sit behind Edible Favors and Fresh Mondays in the communal market, is slated to open by the end of April. 520 Park Ave., 443-804-3933

Chaps Pit Beef: Back in July, we told you about how this Pulaski Highway pit palace (another DDD alum) had high hopes of branching out. Now, those plans are finally coming to fruition as owners Bob and Donna Creager announced last week that they signed a lease to open a new location in Aberdeen. The new eatery, formerly Gino’s Burgers & Chicken, will serve Chaps’ signature charcoal-smoked pit beef sandwiches along with other barbecue bites like ribs, chicken, burgers, and hot dogs. Slated to open in May, the owners hope that the new location will pave the way for franchising opportunities in the future. 1013 Beards Hill Road, Aberdeen, 410-273-7777

DiPasquale’s: This
Highlandtown staple has been around for more than 100 years, serving up
hearty Italian eats like brick-oven pizzas, house-made pastas, and
overstuffed sandwiches. Earlier this week, owner Joe DiPasquale
announced plans to open a new location on the first floor of the
HarborView condominium complex in Federal Hill. Although the
2,000-square-foot space is a bit smaller than the flagship, diners can
still look forward to Dipasquale’s signature Old World dishes and
gourmet grub to go when the new digs debut in June.
100 Harborview Drive.

Harbor Market: Waterfront Partnership’s recess for grownups-inspired pop-up market is returning to McKeldin Square for the season on April 4. Every Friday through September from 11 a.m.-2 p.m., professionals working in the Inner Harbor area are invited to spend their lunch breaks chowing down on food truck fare and challenging co-workers to pick-up games of corn hole or ladder golf. Throughout the season, diners can look forward to featured eats from the likes of Brick N’ Fire Pizza, Gypsy Queen Cafe, Lunchbox Lady, Greek on the Street, and Neopol Smokery. Opening day highlights will include steamed buns from Dooby’s, pulled pork from The Smoking Swine, and Cream Cruiser’s signature ice cream sandwiches. 101 E. Pratt St.

Home Maid: This
Towson brunch spot shuttered its doors in November, but will soon
re-open in a new home in Federal Hill. Owned by brothers Derrick and
Justin Falcoun, the rustic restaurant features biscuit sandwiches, crab
cake benedicts, chicken and waffles, and signature juices like
cucumber-watermelon lemonade. The 50-seat space will feature both
communal and
al fresco seating, and is slated to debut in June. 1400 Key Highway

MOM’S Organic Market: A
grand opening date for a Hampden location of this Rockville-based
grocery chain has been set for April 1. The 17,000-square-foot store
will debut in The Rotunda, offering organic produce, local meats, and
gourmet cheeses. Shoppers are invited to partake in a grand opening
celebration April 1-3, featuring tastings, free giveaways, and treats
like organic cotton candy. The new store marks the brand’s third in the
area, with locations already in Jessup and Timonium.
711 W. 40th St.

Pop Tacos: This Mexican and Korean-style taco bar, currently stationed inside Cross Street Market, will soon relocate to a brick-and-mortar space around the corner. With a bigger kitchen, owners hope to add new offerings to the menu—like ramen and DIY rice bowls. The new spot, which is adjacent to The Local Fry, is slated to open in June. 17 E. Cross St.

Ruby 8 Noodles and Sushi: Fusing flavors from China, Vietnam, and Korea, this international dining destination will soon join the likes of Samos Greek Island Grill, World of Beer, and Piaza Fresh in the mixed-use McHenry Row development in Locust Point. Ruby 8, which currently operates inside Horseshoe Casino Baltimore, will open its second location in the 130-seat space that previously housed Umi Sake in May. The restaurant highlights a wide array of sushi and ramen, as well as larger entrees like roast duck and crispy salt and pepper shrimp. 1702 Whetstone Way

CH-CH CHANGES:

Cunningham’s: The Bagby Restaurant Group recently welcomed chef Jay Rohlfing, who has been hired as executive chef at this Towson farm-to-table spot. A graduate of the Pennsylvania Institute of Culinary Arts, Rohlfing climbed the ranks at various hotels and resorts along the East Coast, and most recently worked under acclaimed chef Linwood Dame at Linwoods in Owings Mills. Cunninghams’ former executive chef Jason Lear will remain with the company, overseeing operations of its Bagby Pizza locations. 1 Olympic Place, Towson, 410-339-7730

Source

DiPasquale’s – Baltimore Magazine

Review: With Forno, the DiPasquale’s Fam Reignites Their Old Space in Highlandtown

Open & Shut: Between 2 Buns; Chaps Pit Beef; DiPasquale’s​

Open & Shut: Between 2 Buns; Chaps Pit Beef; DiPasquale’s