Move over, Ravens and Orioles, a new bird is taking Baltimore by storm: the chicken. Although chicken might not be a beloved Birdland mascot, it’s certainly a rising star on menus throughout the city. For years, culinary gurus such as Anthony Bourdain have rolled their eyes at the original white meat, labeling it tasteless and forgettable, but Charm City chefs have recently taken advantage of chicken’s endless versatility to create memorable dishes.

“The way chefs look at chicken has changed quite a bit, and it’s much more sophisticated today,” says Linwood Dame, co-owner and chef of Linwoods. “There are so many different ways to work with chicken, but it’s difficult to get right, so you’ve got to do it well.”

If there’s one place chicken is consistently cooked to perfection, it’s France, where the bird has been a cornerstone in the kitchen for generations. Luckily for all of us across the Atlantic, French transplants such as Steve Monnier, the executive chef at Chez Hugo, offer to-die-for chicken dishes.

One of Chez Hugo’s most popular plates is the poulet roti au foin pour deux, or the whole roasted chicken for two.
For Monnier and his team, serving such a dish is a painstaking, six-day process that includes carefully selecting chickens from local farms, marinating the meat for hours, slow-roasting the bird on a bed of hay to give the dish a true farm-to-table feel, and cooking different cuts in the oven to make sure every bite is tender and flavorful before reconstructing the pieces to compose a whole bird.

“It seems simple, but you have to make sure the meat is juicy and the skin is crispy,” says Monnier. “This takes a lot of technique.” It’s a far cry from the overlooked poultry of the past, and restaurants throughout Baltimore are offering more and more chicken dishes that soar miles above expectations.

Roasted Half Chicken

The Brewer’s Art
At this Mt. Vernon restaurant, a pan-roasted breast is accompanied by a confit leg and thigh. A watermelon salad, pistachios, and salsa verde provide counterpoints to the richness of the meat.

Poulet Grillé

Petit Louis Bistro
The whole roasted bird for two is a star at this Roland Park staple, but its lighter chicken fare—succulent grilled breast served over fingerling potatoes, with grilled red onions and zucchini and a drizzle of pistou sauce—is just as delicious.

AC’s Famous Fried Chicken

Rye Street Tavern
At this upscale Chesapeake-style spot, ordering the fried chicken—crispy, golden-brown, and packed with flavor—is a no-brainer. On the other hand, choosing between the Southern style, served with buttermilk biscuits and whiskey pickles, or the spicy Jerked version, plated with charred pineapple and Hawaiian rolls, is quite the challenge.

Korean Fried Chicken Breast

Jazz + Soju
In classic Korean technique, this chicken is twice-fried in soybean oil, leaving tender meat covered in a light, crispy shell. This Riverside kitchen’s signature dish melts in your mouth and is tossed with one of two sauces: soy garlic or spicy.

The strength of Jazz + Soju, the new Korean-influenced eatery in Locust Point’s Anthem House apartment building, lies not in its jazz or soju (Korean vodka), though those are perfectly satisfying aspects of the concept. Really, there should be another plus sign in the name, with the word “chicken” following it.

Allow us to explain: When word of the restaurant leaked last year, we couldn’t wait to try its take on one of our favorite comfort foods, Korean twice-fried chicken. We heroically held off until July, about one month after the restaurant opened. That was when our crunch fast finally ended.

The walls of the single-room, high-ceiling, semi-industrial space are dotted with framed album covers from jazz legends such as David “Fathead” Newman, Dinah Washington, and Ramsey Lewis. A huge cabinet filled with actual record jackets and old-time stereo equipment rests against the back wall. The goal, we’re told, is to have live music a few nights a month, though the stage (actually a nook behind the host stand) was silent during our visits. When we came for lunch, curiously, electronica was playing on the sound system. At dinner the next week, the chatter of the crowd drowned out the recorded jazz.

We started that dinner with “soju-tinis,” a twist on the classic variety that uses real fruit, nectars, and soju, the Korean alcohol typically made from rice or sweet potatoes. The strawberry version was tasty but intensely sweet—we preferred the lychee one. (A sign on the front door that boasts “voted best in Baltimore signature soju martinis” made us chuckle—there’s not a lot of competition.) For less adventurous drinkers, there’s a large selection of traditional martinis, cocktails (including a “Korean Donkey” made with ginger beer, soju, lime juice, and ginger), beer, wine, and even mocktails.

Heeding a warning on the menu, we ordered our chicken wings early—they can take 25 to 30 minutes to cook. Before they arrived, we sampled several dishes from the modestly sized menu. Our starters all satisfied. The honey gotchujang sauce on the excellent spicy Brussels sprouts—ordered without the bacon for our vegan friend—provided a subtle kick.

The sweet sesame dressing on the mango salad, with romaine hearts and mixed greens, offered the perfect complement. Fries topped with kimchi and a tangy sauce were a nice take on a ubiquitous dish, but the best of the bunch was the fried mandu. We opted for the pork-filled Korean dumplings (shrimp is also available), which are fried (there’s a bit of a theme here), but not overpoweringly so.

Main courses are less consistent. During our afternoon visit we tried the spicy chicken udon with cauliflower, zucchini, and bell peppers, topped with a Korean chili sauce, which was tasty if not bursting with flavor. Same goes for the bulgogi (marinated beef with Korean barbecue sauce), which was served over rice. Both came with miso soup, which our bartender instructed us to drink straight from the bowl, sans spoon.

While waiting for the star dish to emerge from the kitchen a few nights later, we scooped wedges of seafood pajeon with our chopsticks. The crispy Korean pancakes filled with calamari, scallops, and shrimp were disappointing; the small pieces of seafood were lost in the batter. Next time we’ll try the marinated beef short ribs, which dazzled the dining room as they were served to a neighboring table on a sizzling stone plate.

Our envy was short-lived, though, when our chicken arrived piping hot. We split our order of 10 mini drums and wings between the regular soy garlic sauce and the spicy version. Both were outstanding. What makes this truly a dish to die for is the way the incredible juiciness of the meat melds with the crunch of the skin, which is fried in soybean oil to dissipate the fat. While you have a feeling that what you’re eating falls short of say, quinoa, on the health-food scale, the wings are surprisingly devoid of grease.

Jazz + Soju still has some kinks to work out. The restaurant was out of several wines the night we visited, and the staff was unsure about its own vegan offerings. What some parts of the service lacked in execution, however, waiters made up for in effort. Each one we encountered was friendly and attentive, and seemed genuinely invested in getting things right.

And ooh, that chicken. On our way out we took note: There is room for another word on the sign.

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JAZZ + SOJU 900 E. Fort Ave., 410-244-8600. HOURS Mon.-Thurs. 11:30 a.m.- 2:30 p.m., 4 p.m.–11 p.m. Fri.-Sat. 11:30 a.m.-1:30 a.m., Sun. 11:30 a.m.-9 p.m. PRICES Starters: $6-15; salads: $9-14; rice and noodles: $13-16; share plates: $13-19; chicken: $18-23; sushi and sashimi: $6-14. AMBIANCE Jazzy.

OPEN

The Red Boat Viet Fusion Restaurant: This Vietnamese-fusion spot is in the midst of a major expansion. The Eutaw Street eatery has plans to open two new locations in College Park and Boca Raton, Florida next year, and it recently debuted a second Charm City cafe in Mt. Vernon. The North Charles Street spot officially opened its doors last week, serving The Red Boat’s signature spring rolls, tacos, and banh mi sandwiches. The Mt. Vernon iteration will also feature a full bar, and kimchi fries with DIY toppings like bulgogi beef, lemongrass chicken, fried eggs, and toasted seaweed. 334 N. Charles St., 443-885-9162

Jazz + Soju: Adding to the city’s Asian-fusion options is this new Korean restaurant inside the Anthem House apartment complex in Locust Point. Now in soft opening mode, the spot will offer dinner service for the next two weeks and begin to serve lunch when it officially cuts the ribbon later this month. As its name implies, the artsy hangout combines live jazz music with a selection of soju—a Korean iteration of vodka. The food menu showcases traditional twice-fried chicken, as well as bulgogi burger sliders, kimchi fries, and garlic fried rice. 900 E. Fort Ave., 410-244-8600

NEWS

Charles Village Pub: This beloved Charles Village dive—best known for its affordable drinks and relaxed atmosphere—suffered a grease fire earlier this week. Luckily, no one was hurt. But the bar will be closed indefinitely as management oversees cleanup efforts and necessary repairs. In the meantime, neighbors have started a crowdfunding campaign to aid CVP employees while they are out of work. The GoFundMe has seen an overwhelming outpouring of support, raising $3,985 of its $5,000 goal in only two days. Stay tuned for updates. 3107 St. Paul St.

COMING SOON

Ceremony Coffee Opening at Cross Street Market: Ceremony Coffee Roasters has become a local go-to for craft coffees and Instagram-worthy eats since it opened in Mt. Vernon two years ago. The Annapolis-based shop later expanded with a second Baltimore location at Harbor Point, and now, it’s planning to unveil a stall at Cross Street Market in Federal Hill—which is currently in the midst of a major overhaul. The market’s renovations are being done in phases, and Ceremony will be located in the portion closest to Light Street that is expected to be finished first. Be on the lookout for seasonal java drinks, granola bowls, and breakfast sandwiches when the stall debuts this fall. 1065 S. Charles St.

The Hoof Cafe: Speaking of coffee shops in South Baltimore, this new spot is preparing to open its doors in Locust Point this spring. A partnership between neighborhood locals Rebecca Friedman and Jason Schiavone, the community hub will offer local Pfefferkorn’s Coffee, bagels, pastries, oatmeal, and other cafe fare. Friedman recently told SouthBMore.com that she is targeting an opening later this month. 1648 E. Fort Ave. 443-961-1039.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

5/5: Brunchin’ for a Benefit at La Food Marketa
Chef Chad Gauss is putting a charitable twist on his Cinco de Mayo celebrations at La Food Marketa in Pikesville this weekend. A portion of all brunch proceeds on Saturday, May 5 will be donated to Alzheimer’s Association of Greater Maryland’s upcoming Walk to End Alzheimer’s. Featured brunch plates include Mexican chocolate pancakes, steak omelettes, and Gauss’ take on a classic croque madame with ham, cheese, flour tortillas, and white enchilada sauce. 2620 Quarry Lake Drive, 410-415-0606

5/3-6: Phub’s Pop-Up at R. House
R. House is kicking off Asian Pacific American Heritage Month with a pop-up from Phub’s—a Hanover-based Vietnamese restaurant that specializes in bowls of pho and banh mi subs. Throughout the weekend, the shop will be serving up dishes like fried spring rolls, barbecue pork sandwiches, vegan pho bowls, and organic salads topped with citrus sesame chicken. 301 W. 29th St., 11:30 a.m.- 9 p.m.

SHUT

Corner Charcuterie Bar: Owner Bernard Dehaene has officially closed this small plates staple on the Avenue in Hampden. He took to Facebook to announce the closure earlier this week. “Due to my deteriorating health, I have decided that today will be my last day opening Corner,” he posted Monday. “I need the time to prepare for knee, hip, and back surgery, as well as mind, body, and health.” Dehaene—who opened the business in 2011 and expanded it to include the property next door two years later—goes on to thank his customers, describing the experience as “one hell of a rollercoaster ride not to be forgotten.” 850 W. 36th St.

Modern Cook Shop: In Fells Point, this all-day eatery will also be shutting its doors this week. “Over the past few months, we’ve worked hard to roll out pop-up dinner concepts and new seasonal menu offerings each week, and we’ve seen some traction in patronage,” owners Andy Gruver and Jason Sanchez wrote in an announcement on Facebook. “Unfortunately, the clock has run out though. The costs of operating such an ambitious concept from morning to midnight, along with declining visitation to Baltimore and Fells Point has left costs far outweighing revenues.” The restaurant’s final night of service will be Saturday, May 5. No word yet on what will become of the space, which is equipped Gruver’s handmade designs of light woods, industrial shelves, and furniture. 901 S. Wolfe St.