We’re all about a good gazpacho during the summer, but the chillier months are prime time for steamy soups and stews. (Check out this piece if you’re searching for a good bowl of ramen or pho.) Whether you’re looking for a traditional chicken noodle to cure a cold, have a hankering for some spicy Maryland crab, or want to get nostalgic with a creamy tomato, here are a few places to visit to escape the nip in the air.

Atwater’s: With locations scattered everywhere from Kenilworth to Catonsville, this hometown hotspot is full of satisfying comfort foods. The daily soups, which vary by location, are sold by the cup, bowl, or quart and served with Atwater’s fresh-baked breads. Expect varieties like sweet potato bisque and creamy broccoli and cheese. Beloved broth: The first bowl of soup Atwater’s ever sold was a piping-hot helping of shrimp and sausage gumbo at the Belvedere Square location in 2003. If you ever see it on the ever-rotating menu, it’s a can’t-miss. Multiple locations including 3601 Boston St., 667-309-7146

Di Pasquale’s Marketplace: Although best known for its hefty subs and traditional Italian pastas, this Brewers Hill market (with a satellite location in South Baltimore) churns out some stellar soups. Step up to the counter to order a steaming bowl of Tuscan chili, classic fagioli (pasta and beans), cream of crab, or chicken gnocchi. Beloved broth: Italian wedding soup with parsley, Parmesean, and mini-meatballs. 3700 Toone St., 410-276-6787

Lenny’s Delicatessen: Featuring classic touches like cafeteria-style service and paper placemats, this decades-old deli has long been a go-to for breakfast platters, overstuffed sandwiches, fried chicken, and tasty soups. Slurp down classics like split pea, chicken noodle, and lumberjack vegetable. Beloved broth: Chicken matzo ball soup like Bubbe used to make. 9107 Reisterstown Road, Owings Mills, 410-363-3353

Mama’s On the Half Shell: Opened in 2003, Canton’s Mama’s On the Half Shell—which recently expanded with a second location in Owings Mills—offers an array of classic Maryland seafood staples, whether it be crab cakes, seafood clubs, or crab mac and cheese. But let’s not forget another highlight: soup. Piping-hot bowls range from Maryland crab and cream of crab to oyster stew and a seasonal French onion. Beloved broth: Thick seafood chowder. 2901 O’Donnell St., 410-276-3160

Nalley Fresh: We know, we know. This homegrown cafe chain is best known for its customizable salads and rice bowls. But don’t sleep on the soups. While making your way down the line, add on a hearty cup of the soup du jour, which could be anything from chicken noodle to turkey or vegan chili. Beloved broth: In keeping with the DIY spirit, you can create your own layered soup bowl with a choice of protein, plus noodles, quinoa, black beans, carrot, onion, wheat berries, pumpkin seeds, and spinach all covered in a steamy tomato broth. Multiple locations including 120 E. Baltimore Street. 

SoBo Cafe: Settle in at one of the white linen-covered tables at this Federal Hill dining destination to start your meal with a cup of steamy soup. Seasonal favorites include a tortilla and creamy tomato basil soup. Beloved broth: Butternut squash with sherry topped with garlic aioli and crispy sage. 6 W. Cross St., 410-752-1518

Soup’s On: This cozy outpost in Midtown-Belvedere exudes plenty of charm, with chalkboard menus, coveted window seating, and whimsical, hand-painted table-tops inspired by the featured soups on the menu. (The butternut squash table is particularly pleasing, with labeled illustrations of ingredients like thyme and leeks.) The offerings rotate frequently, and include a sizable vegan and vegetarian selection. Be on the lookout for options ranging from a classic French onion to cream of crab. Beloved broth: Cream of tomato with mascarpone. 11 W. Preston St., 410-528-1003

Stone Mill Bakery & Cafe: Whether you’re dining in, or ordering a quart to-go, you can’t go wrong with the scratch-made soups at this Green Spring Station staple. Get cozy and pair the cafe’s warm bowls (think non-fat vegetable and a classic chicken noodle) with any of its fresh-baked breads. Beloved broth: Stone Mill’s famous tomato-basil soup will be sure to soothe your soul. Multiple locations including 10751 Falls Road, Lutherville-Timonium. 410-821-1358

Thames Street Oyster House: Seafood stews abound at this Fells Point spot, which boasts a menu full of oceanic offerings like fish and chips, oysters on the half shell, and classic lobster rolls. Try the Eastern Shore oyster stew, or the special weekend chowder made with Rhode Island quahogs (hard clams). Beloved broth: Locally inspired Maryland crab with braised short rib. 1728 Thames St., 443-449-7726

Urban Deli: Early birds love grabbing locally sourced Towson Hot Bagels and Zeke’s coffee at this Federal Hill breakfast-and-lunch spot, which also serves an array of signatures sandwiches. The soup du jour rotates daily, and includes chicken noodle, hearty vegetable, and chili. Beloved broth: Cheesy broccoli. 1025 Light St., 443-708-0495

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Fact checking assistance by Samantha Carey

At the newly opened AJ’s Deli inside Mount Vernon Marketplace, purists will recognize the classic fried bologna hot dogs and pastrami sandwiches. But the modern-industrial looking stall, which highlights eight bar seats equipped with charging stations for phones and laptops, also offers beer and wine, a potato-latke eggs benedict, and sandwiches filled with “tuna-cado” salad—a healthier version of traditional tuna mixed with avocado as a binding substitute.

“Mayonnaise-heavy deli sandwiches are of a bygone era,” says AJ’s owner Alan Morstein, whose concept mirrors a deli he formerly operated in Ocean City more than 35 years ago, but with an updated twist. “It’s all part of this new wave of delis.”

The vibe at AJ’s is indicative of a larger trend across the country. As old-school Jewish delis continue to shutter their doors, new ones are modernizing their menus in order to change with the times. At the weeks-old Call Your Mother Deli in Washington, D.C., an Instagrammable wall mural greets diners looking to sample dishes like whitefish croquettes and a bagel schmeared with candied salmon cream cheese, crispy shallots, and micro radishes.

“There’s a whole different style now,” Morstein says. “It’s not like what my parents used to take me to, and it’s not like what I used to take my kids to. It’s where my kids are taking me now.”

Diners across the country began to take a hard look at what the future held for old-school sandwich shops two years ago, after the iconic Carnegie Deli in New York City sliced its final corned beef-on-rye. Since then, owners have repeatedly cited retirement and the rising costs of quality meats and ingredients as part of the reason for the dwindling number of delis.

“I don’t think we’re going to see any more real, full-service delis open very often, if ever again,” says Alan Smith, owner of Lenny’s Delicatessen in Owings Mills, which also has a spinoff inside Horseshoe Casino. “It costs a lot of money to do it, and you need a lot of help.”

Baltimoreans started to feel the void in the spring of 2017, when Lenny’s closed its 26-year-old Lombard Street location on Baltimore’s famed “Corned Beef Row”—a once-bustling food district that now houses its last remaining delis, Attman’s and Weiss.

When Smith was approached by the nearby Helping Up Mission about taking over the space last year, he decided that it was the right time to close the Lombard Street staple and focus his energy on his other two locations. Soon after, Suburban House shuttered in Pikesville, and, just last month, Mueller’s Deli closed in Northeast Baltimore.

“I don’t think delis are closing down because of lack of business, I think it’s because people don’t want to get into the business anymore,” says Neil Parish, who opened The Essen Room in Pikesville last fall. “Back in the olden days, it was much easier to get product and to get help to make the product. Finding help is next to impossible now. People are using pre-cut nova because they can’t find anyone to slice it.”

In a time when many new deli owners are updating their dishes, Parish decided to go back to basics with a menu highlighting old-world items like kugel, knishes, and kreplach. Though he says he is constantly given feedback about his prices, he sticks to the philosophy that quality “always wins out.”

In fact, many of the remaining family-owned eateries are committed to upholding the time-honored traditions established by delis of yesteryear. Smith, for example, says that the menu in Owings Mills hasn’t changed since Lenny’s first opened its doors in 1985, and he doesn’t plan to modernize anything any time soon.

“It’s hard work, but I’m not tired of doing it,” Smith says. “We have no plans to go anywhere. It’s all I’ve ever done—I don’t know how to do anything else.”

And while the city may never return to the heyday of traditional delis operating around every corner, with a few standbys still going strong, a classic corned beef sandwich won’t ever be hard to come by.

“I don’t believe that the concept of a Jewish deli is dying,” Parish says. “Where other guys are going out, there are still some of us left who really want to spread the message.”

EPICUREAN EVENTS

R. House Brunch: Just when we thought Remington’s new communal food hall couldn’t get any more enticing, the marketplace is launching a brand-new weekend brunch program.  Starting this Saturday, April 22, five of the market’s stalls will introduce mid-morning menus to be offered from 10 to 11:30 a.m. Dishes will include updated breakfast sandwiches from Ground & Griddled; traditional sabah pita filled with hard-boiled egg, eggplant fries, and hummus at Arba; over-easy eggs atop yucca hash browns at White Envelope; authentic Hawaiian loco moco and sushi breakfast burritos at Hilo; and vegan donuts and smoothie bowls from Stall 11. R. Bar will also unveil a brunch cocktail list featuring a house Bloody Mary with mezcal and Old Bay olives, and a sangria rosé that uses Mobtown Fermentation’s Wild Kombucha. 301 W. 29th St., 443-347-3570

Harbor Market: Instead of brown bagging-it at your desk, make your way to McKeldin Square to get some fresh air during lunch this season. Waterfront Partnership’s pop-up market will return on Wednesdays and Fridays from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. starting May 5, with options like mac and cheese from Smoking Swine, crab cones from Gypsy Queen Cafe, bowls from Dooby’s, steamed buns from Ekiben, and ice cream sandwiches from Cream Cruiser. Plus, make the most of your lunch hour by challenging a co-worker to a round of cornhole, ladder toss, Bearpong, or Jenga. McKeldin Square, Inner Harbor, Wednesdays and Fridays throughout October from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. starting May 5.

International Dipping Cabinet at The Charmery: This go-to ice cream parlor on The Avenue in Hampden is all about using its unique flavors as a tool for community outreach. Next week, husband-and-wife owners David and Laura Alima are hosting an event celebrating the city’s culturally diverse dining scene. On Wednesday, April 26 from 6-10 p.m., the shop will feature signature scoops inspired by local restaurants like Greek mainstay Souvlaki, Senegalese favorite Nailah’s Kitchen, and Italian outpost Hersh’s. With input from the partnering spots, The Charmery has crafted flavors such as Matcha with Azuki Bean Swirl as a nod to the Japanese heritage of Ekiben, and a variety fusing pistachio, rosewater, almonds, and dates to honor Afghani destination The Helmand. Ten percent of all of the evening’s proceeds will be donated to the local chapter of the International Rescue Committee. 801 W. 36th St., 410-814-0493

OPEN

Charm City Cakes: Baltimore boy-turned-big name baker Duff Goldman has returned to his old stomping grounds to cut the ribbon at his new bakeshop in Harbor East. Charm City Cakes—Goldman’s Remington bakery best-known as the subject of Food Network’s Ace of Cakes—unveiled the new storefront at 618 South President Street in between Roy’s and James Joyce earlier today. The shop will serve as a retail arm to peddle the bakery’s signature brownies, cake jars, macarons, and cupcakes. 618 S. President St.

COMING SOON

Atlas Restaurant Group Expands at the Four Seasons: Atlas Restaurant Group founder Alex Smith tightened his grip on the Harbor East’s dining scene earlier this month, with the announcement that he will be opening a new rooftop concept at the Four Seasons Baltimore. Slated to debut this fall, the 10,000-square-foot restaurant will seat 250 people, include three outdoor spaces, and offer killer views of the Baltimore skyline. Smith also operates Loch Bar and Azumi in the Four Seasons, as well as other community destinations Ouzo Bay, Harbor East Deli, and soon-to-open Tagliata. 200 International Drive.

Batch Bake Shop: Hamilton-Lauraville locals, who are still lamenting the loss of Hamilton Bakery on Harford Road, will be happy to hear that a new bakeshop will soon take its place. Expected to debut this spring, the remodeled shop will feature wooden furniture, modern exposed-bulb lighting, and large display cases filled with sweet treats. 5414 Harford Road.

The DockBar: The Boathouse Canton is preparing to once again unveil its adjoining outdoor patio just in time for al fresco dining season. DockBar, the dog-friendly pavilion ideal for summer sipping, will open on April 21. Guests are invited to enjoy the waterfront views while listening to live music, indulging in Bloody Marys, tipping back Orange Crushes, and sampling “frosé”—the bar’s new offering that fuses rosé with frozen strawberry purée. Seasonal dishes to look out for range from cocktail shrimp and oysters on the half shell to Baja tacos and pulled pork sandwiches. 2809 Boston St., 410-773-9795

Wit on the Water: Another al fresco option is Wit & Wisdom’s picturesque patio at the Four Seasons Baltimore. The outdoor concept will make its return for the season at a grand opening event on April 26, which will feature live music, cornhole, frozen cocktails, local beer, and crab dishes by executive chef Zack Mills. If you can’t make it to the premiere, the 85-seat spot will be open throug October with a menu of specialty cocktails, Eastern Shore-inspired plates, and desserts by pastry chef Dyan Ng. 200 International Drive., 410-576-5800

NEWS

Mayor’s Office Adds New Food Truck Zones: Mobile kitchens were granted more flexibility last week as Mayor Pugh designated 10 new food truck zones in high-pedestrian areas throughout the city. The zones—which sit at least 300 feet away from restaurants selling similar products and now include areas around Penn Station, Sinai Hospital, and Coppin State University—were first introduced in 2014 as a way to reduce competition between food trucks and surrounding brick-and-mortar businesses. Though the hope is that the additions will give trucks more room to grow, a lawsuit spearheaded by the owners of Pizza di Joey and Madame BBQ to revoke the 300-foot rule is still working its way through the city court system.

SHUT:

Lenny’s Delicatessen: This weekend will be the last for regulars to get their fix of overstuffed reubens and jumbo hot dogs at Lenny’s Deli on Corned Beef Row. After 26 years, owner Alan Smith has decided to turn over the lease at the Lombard Street staple. “It’s just time,” Smith tells us. Following its last service, the deli will be transformed into a temporary headquarters for the nearby Helping Up Mission, which provides assistance for locals struggling with homelessness and addiction. Smith has vowed to donate all of the eatery’s existing furniture and equipment to the nonprofit while a $2 million renovation project is completed at its existing property around the corner. Two other Lenny’s locations—the Owings Mills flagship and a storefront at the Baltimore Marketplace inside Horseshoe Casino—are still going strong.  “Whenever something is in your life for this amount of time and it goes away, there’s definitely a feeling of loss,” says Smith, who worked at Lennys’ predecessor, Jack’s of Lombard Street, for four years before taking over the space. “But it’s not an unhappy situation. It feels good that I can do something positive.”

Ware House 518: Owners Ezra Tilaye and Tegist Ayalew said goodbye to their contemporary restaurant in Mt. Vernon earlier this month, after managing the space for nearly seven years. Tilaye cites Ayalew’s impending retirement as the primary reason for the closure, and says that he will now focus his efforts on the duo’s D.C. concept, Creme. New owners Joshua Persing and Robert Gay have since gotten to work to transform the space into a new gay bar. Expected to debut April 28, the club will feature a West Coast vibe with small plates, sleek furniture, and live entertainment including drag brunches on weekends.