COMING SOON

Abbey Burger Bistro: Husband-and-wife owners Russ and Marigot Miller—along with their business partner Jason Zink of Smaltimore—have already graced Federal Hill, Fells Point, and Ocean City with their mouthwatering burgers and tots. This fall, they’re expanding yet again with another Abbey spinoff in the former home of The Nickel Taphouse in Mt. Washington. This time around, the team is partnering with chef Patrick Morrow to add to Abbey’s sports bar vibe with seafood steamers like shrimp and clams. “We want to use the Abbey concept and keep some of the exotic meats, but also add some things to broaden it up a little bit,” Russ says.

A renovation will yield new floors and revamped bars that will emphasize local and Belgian craft drafts. Of course, in keeping with Abbey tradition, the plan is for the bar to be a hub for European soccer matches. Having grown up in the area, Russ adds that he’s excited to enhance the dining scene in North Baltimore. “Our food scene in Baltimore is continuing to grow and get better and better,” he says. “It’s exciting that we’re stepping up our food game and it’s being recognized from all over.” 1604 Kelly Ave.

On Top Hot Dogs + Burgers: Chef Federico Tischler is shifting his focus from Venezuelan street food to all-American classics at his stall inside R. House in Remington. This Friday, the former White Envelope concept will transform into On Top Hot Dogs + Burgers, Tischler’s new brainchild inspired by his grandmother’s ability to whip up meals using whatever she could find in the refrigerator. “You learn how to cook using recipes, but at the same time, using associations and the ingredients available to you,” he says in a statement. In keeping with that mentality, Tischler will highlight hot dogs topped with mish-mashed ingredients. (The signature “Bullet on the Blue Sky” dog comes dressed with bacon, cheddar cheese, red cabbage, and ground crispy plantains.) Additionally, the menu features classic burgers with DIY toppings including everything from fried egg to confit cherry tomatoes and 12 different sauces. 301 W. 29th St.

Papi’s Tacos: It’s an exciting month for this Fells Point taqueria best known for its Mexican street vibe and killer margaritas. Not only is the Aliceanna Street staple celebrating its fifth birthday this week, but a second Papi’s is expected to debut any day now in the former home of Dimitri’s Tavern in Hampden. Opening across the street from its sister-restaurant Wicked Sisters on Falls Road, the new location will mimic the style of the flagship with its signature antojitos (small snacks) and build-your-own street tacos in a space decorated with interior greenery and lots of sugar skulls. While patiently awaiting the new opening, fans of the restaurant are invited to celebrate Papi’s big birthday at the Fells Point location tonight. Swing by for specials including $5 house margaritas and house wines, $4 sangria, $3 draft beers, and $3 shots of tequila. 1703 Aliceanna St. 410-299-8480

NEWS

Yelp Names Baltimore a Top Foodie City: On the heels of last week’s James Beard Award semifinalists announcement, the national acclaim keeps rolling in for the local dining scene. This week, Yelp ranked Baltimore among its top 10 foodie cities throughout the country. In compiling the list, Yelp’s data science team examined factors such as ratings, reviews, cuisine diversity, and percentage of food photos to determine where users love to eat right now. Coming in at No. 9, Baltimore’s write-up gives nods to our casual pubs, award-winning chefs, and food halls—specifically mentioning spots such as Water for Chocolate and Annabel Lee Tavern. We’re in the company of famous foodie hubs including St. Louis, Houston, San Diego, Honolulu, and San Francisco.

Grand Central Sold to Landmark Partners: It’s the end of an era for this decades-old dance club in Mt. Vernon, a landmark in the LGBTQ community, which was put on the market by longtime owner Don Davis more than a year ago. “My heart has always been there,” Davis told us after making the decision in 2017. “I’ve met so many wonderful people in the past couple of decades. I’ll miss it, but it’s just time.” Last week, it was announced that the club had finally sold to local developers Landmark Partners—the firm behind the City House coworking space located just a few blocks away from Grand Central on Eager Street. For now, the bar remains open under new management, but in the coming months the new owners plan to transform the space into an office building with two retail storefronts on the street level. Stay tuned for more updates. 1001 N. Charles St. 410-752-7133

Sandlot Sets Spring Reopening Date: The current frigid temperatures might make it difficult to envision sipping frozen cocktails at Sandlot in Harbor Point, but the waterfront hangout will be back up and running before we know it. The Woodberry Kitchen sister-spot will officially reopen for the season on May 3. Throughout the past two summers, we’ve gotten to know the beach-themed peninsula as a social spot for enjoying lawn games, live music, and eats on a stick. This time around, expect all of the same attractions with a slew of new events including silent disco parties, plant workshops with B. Willow, wine tastings with Old Westminster Winery, and sunset cruises on board the Baltimore Water Taxis. 1000 Wills St.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

3/8: International Women’s Day at Topside
Gather your favorite boss babes and head up to Topside on the 14th floor of Hotel Revival for this Women’s Day celebration benefiting My Sister’s Place—a local resource center serving women and children experiencing homelessness in the city. The bar will be offering $5 wine specials for all of the ladies, and from 5-9 p.m., a percentage of all purchases will be donated to the cause. Aside from the wine, the bar team will feature a special cocktail dubbed the “Friday Evening”—a nod to Baltimore suffragist and philanthropist Mary Elizabeth Garrett and her friends. 101 W. Monument St. 410-727-7101

3/11: Moccagatta Wine Dinner at Cinghiale
Next week, Cinghiale in Harbor East is welcoming master vintner Martina Minuto all the way from the Barbaresco in Piedmont region of Italy. The wine-making expert works on her family’s estate in Barbaresco, which has roots dating back to the 1800s, and will pair several of their wines with a special menu by executive chef James Lewandowski. Dishes on deck will include roasted forest mushroom bruschetta, beef tenderloin with smoked potato puree, and a hazelnut cake with dark chocolate cherry sauce. 822 Lancaster St. 410-547-8282. $129

SHUT

Lupa: Foreman Wolf Restaurant Group served the last meal at its Roman trattoria in Columbia last weekend. After transitioning from Petit Louis in January of 2018, Lupa quickly became a neighborhood spot for housemade pasta, focaccia pizzas, and some of the best gelato this side of the pond. “We love Lupa and will miss Howard County and all of our regular guests,” Foreman Wolf co-owner Tony Foreman said in a statement. Foreman went on to explain that the restaurant’s investors were no longer interested in funding the spot. “We’re proud and grateful for our time here.” 10215 Wincopin Cir, Columbia

Trinacria Cafe: Stationed on West Centre Street across from Mount Vernon Marketplace, this neighborhood cafe is a go-to for glasses of wine paired with Italian pastas and subs. (Not to mention the lively drag brunches.) But, for the time being, regulars are going to have to visit Trinacria’s decades-old flagship market on West Paca Street to quell cravings. Owner Vince Fava posted a handwritten note to the cafe’s front door last week, which announced that the spot will be closed “until further notice.” Luckily, the downtown deli is open for business to hold everyone over until the Mt. Vernon location—hopefully—reopens in the coming weeks. 111 W. Centre St.

I have my own version of a culinary crystal ball, and, with few exceptions, it’s almost always accurate. Here it is: Long before the entrees arrive, once the water and wine are flowing, and the bread and the salad have been served, I can predict how the rest of the meal is likely to go. These items act as a sort of litmus test, telling me all that I need to know. If all goes well, I’m an eager guest, excited to see what will follow. If not, I tend to feel like a hostage, and the meal becomes something that I dread.

On my first of four visits to Lupa Trattoria Romana, a Roman rebrand of the former Petit Louis space in Columbia, I felt a sense of inner peace almost immediately. The requested “chilled” water was pleasingly cold, and a carafe for refilling was left on the table. The house-made bread was thick and chewy and served alongside a bottle of earthy EVOO. The salad itself, a fresh bed of arugula tossed with lemon vinaigrette and Parmigiano, was simple—and sublime. And a bottle of Spanish rosé summarily arrived after it was ordered, then was placed on a silver wine coaster.

Co-owner Tony Foreman and his business partner, Cindy Wolf, have been feeding Baltimoreans for more than two decades at their restaurants, including Charleston, where Wolf is a chef, and Cinghiale (where Lupa executive chef James Lewandowski does double time). Despite the comings and goings of so many spots in the area, they remain the consummate restaurant owners.

Foreman says that they decided to rebrand the space because the Petit Louis French bistro concept, which works so well in Roland Park, didn’t work as well when Louis opened in Columbia. “People thought that French food was more for special occasions,” explains Foreman. “We were packed on the weekends, but not during the week.” Of course, it doesn’t hurt that Foreman himself is now a father of two and likely recognized the need for more casual, family-friendly spots with good food.

In keeping with the homey Italian concept at Lupa, Old World still lifes adorn the pumpkin-colored walls, and the dining room is littered with large farm tables for family-style dining. Lupa—meaning she-wolf, a sly wink to Chef Wolf’s name—is Cinghiale’s more casual cousin. Its menu, whose origins are inspired by the traditions of la cucina Romana—one of the world’s most populist cuisines—is humble and inexpensive and uses simple techniques to highlight seasonal ingredients.

Lupa’s offerings highlight many of the hallmarks of Roman cuisine, including bitter vegetables (escarole salad here), oxtail (puréed into ragu and served with fettucine), fried vegetables (like crisp threads of carrots on top of a sautéed calamari appetizer), and thick, Roman-style pizza. The wine list—featuring bottles from Central Italy, America, and France, plus 20 wines by the glass—is reasonably priced.

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Entrees are similarly enticing. For the primi, or starch course, there are some dozen pastas to pick from, including the hallmark Roman pastas cacio e pepe and Perciatelli all’ Amatriciana (guanciale, roasted tomatoes, and dried chilies). I’m a sucker for seafood, so indulged in the spaghetti neri, squid ink spaghetti with grilled calamari, shrimp, lemon, and dried chili. The inky, house-made black strands of pasta tossed in olive oil and shrimp stock strongly tasted of the sea and, when paired with the seafood, were a paragon of umami.

Sticking with the sea, I also enjoyed the sweet and herbaceous pan-seared bronzino with its carrot purée swoosh and a sauce of lemon butter and fennel pollen pesto.

It would be easy to overlook the featured chicken dish, but you shouldn’t. In this case, the poultry is wrapped in prosciutto and served on a bed of creamy farro with Swiss chard in a red-wine reduction sauce. This version, a riff on veal saltimbocca, is flavor-packed and anything but ordinary.

For dessert, there’s a wonderful selection—20 flavors in all—of gelati and sorbetti. On various visits, we mixed and matched the stracciatella, hazelnut, chocolate, and tiramisu replete with giant hunks of espresso-soaked ladyfingers. Finally, when in Rome, do as the Romans do, and cleanse your palate with a shot of limoncello.

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LUPA TRATTORIA ROMANA. 10215 Wincopin Cir., Columbia, 410-964-9999. HOURS: Brunch: Tues.-Fri. 11 a.m.-2 :30 p.m., Sat.-Sun. 11 a.m.-3:30 p.m.; dinner: Mon.-Sat. 5-10 p.m., Sun. 5-9 p.m. PRICES: Appetizers: $9-28; pastas: $15-21; entrees: $23-29; desserts: $8.75. AMBIANCE: Rustic Italian.

OPEN

Lupa: Foreman Wolf’s new Roman trattoria on the Kittamaqundi lakefront is officially open for business. Formerly the home of Petit Louis’ Columbia location, the rebranded restaurant boasts a fresh interior by local designer—and Curiosity boutique owner—Katie DeStefano. The space now features long farm tables, pops of merlot red and terra cotta orange, and 60-inch iron light fixtures that further the rustic Italian vibe. Executed by chef James Lewandowski—who also heads up the kitchen at Lupa’s sister-spot Cinghiale in Harbor East—the menu will highlight Roman-style paninis, focaccia pizzas, and handmade pastas paired with a Central Italian wine list. Be sure to save room for dessert, as Lupa will also operate its own gelateria with 20 gelatos and sorbettos made in-house daily. 10215 Wincopin Circle, Columbia, 410-964-9999

COMING SOON

Cinnaholic: On the heels of the second-annual Baltimore Vegan Restaurant Week, the city’s dairy-free movement continues to expand with the addition of this new vegan cinnamon roll shop. Cinnaholic—a national chain that was featured on Shark Tank—will debut its first Maryland location at The Rotunda in Hampden this spring. The DIY menu features sustainably sourced cinnamon rolls drizzled with various frosting flavors (think cream cheese, banana, and amaretto) and topped with everything from almonds and apples to pecans and pretzels. The coffee and dessert destination will also be joined by new Rotunda retailers The Local Fry and MOD Pizza when it cuts the ribbon this spring. 711 W. 40th St.

Brookside Market: Equipped with a brand new deli counter, 50-seat dining room, and an Italian pizza oven custom-made by a family in Naples, this new Jarrettsville Pike eatery is readying for a grand opening in Jacksonville this week. Owner Casey Brooks—who previously owned Casey’s Bar and Restaurant on Joppa Road for 10 years—is putting the finishing touches on his new neighborhood eatery, which will offer a variety of deli sandwiches, wood-fired pizzas, fish stew, osso bucco, and the signature chicken pot pie that was a favorite of regulars at Casey’s. Brooks is excited to unveil the new space—formerly a Royal Farms—which he designed from scratch. “Everything I’ve been involved in previously was kind of like, ‘Here’s what you’ve got, make it work,’” he says. “This is from the ground up. It’s a whole different world.” 14232 Jarrettsville Pike, Jacksonville, 410-667-8000

Mobtown Brewing Company: At a time where the future of Maryland’s craft beer laws is very much up in the air, it’s reassuring to see when brewers choose Baltimore as their home. While still in its planning stages, Mobtown Brewing Company is expected to make its debut in Canton this fall. Head brewer Dave Carpenter recently told the Baltimore Business Journal that he plans to use a 10-barrel system, and offer four to six rotating taps including a selection of sours and New England IPAs. Like many other neighborhood breweries, he hopes for the taproom to be a home for fundraisers, live music, and other community events. Stay tuned for more updates.

NEWS

Joe Benny’s Named One of Yelp’s Top 100 Places to Eat in 2018: We always love to see Baltimore get some national recognition. In addition to recent nods from Forbes and The New York Times, our local dining scene got some much-deserved praise last week when Yelp ranked Joe Benny’s No. 62 on its list of the nation’s top 100 places to eat in 2018. The Little Italy focacceria (a Best of Baltimore winner in 2016) was chosen by Yelp’s data science team, which considered quality, rankings, and number of reviews to narrow down the list. “While we can’t determine what people will ultimately write about us, we can try our hardest to put out the best experience for folks walking through our doors,” the eatery posted to Facebook, in response to the news. “We are so very happy, fortunate, proud, but mostly very grateful to be on this list. If not for anything else, it’s a blessing to know that the overwhelming majority of you love Joe Benny’s. And believe us—we love having you.” 313 High St., 443-835-4866.

EPICUREAN EVENTS


3/4: Rye’s Up Against Cystic Fibrosis
The Baltimore Bartenders Guild’s annual cocktail competition benefiting the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation returns to the Hotel Monaco this weekend for its seventh year. Mingle with other cocktail enthusiasts while sampling creative rye whiskey drinks crafted by 17 guild members from bars throughout the city. The evening will also feature music spun by DJ Rob Macy of the acclaimed Save Your Soul dance parties, as well as light bites from local restaurants including Cultured, The Outpost American Tavern, Loch Bar, Pen & Quill, and Square Meal—one of two dining concepts opening inside Mt. Vernon’s yet-to-open Hotel Revival. Hotel Monaco, 2 N. Charles St., 5-8 p.m., $75.

3/4: Ethiopian Dinner at Motor House’s World Sounds Series
Famed Ethio-American vocalist Meklit—whose latest album When the People Move, The Music Moves, Too reached No. 4 on the iTunes World Music charts—is heading to Motor House in Station North this weekend for a special performance of her Ethio-jazz hits. To enhance the experience, Motor House is offering guests a traditional Ethiopian dinner buffet. Feast on dishes like shiro (chickpea stew), misir wott (spicy red lentils), and gomen (spicy collards), while swaying to Meklit’s soul-satisfying songs including her viral hit “Kemekem—I Like Your Afro.” The Motor House, 120 W. North Ave., 410-637-8300, 7-9 p.m., $15-35. 

CH-CH CHANGES

Lupa: This weekend will be the last for Columbia diners to feast on coq au vin and croque monsieur at Petit Louis Bistro on the Kittamaqundi lakefront. After four years in business, owners Tony Foreman and chef Cindy Wolf have decided to transform the restaurant into a casual Roman trattoria named Lupa, which translates to “she-wolf” in Italian. In just a few weeks, the space will yield a new interior by local designer Katie DeStefano, as well as a fresh menu featuring Northern Italian cuisine. “It just feels like the right time to change things up,” Foreman said, in a statement. “Roman food is one of my favorite things in the entire world. I’m so excited to do something that is so close to my heart.” (No need to worry, city dwellers. There are no changes to report about the Petit Louis flagship in Roland Park.) 10215 Wincopin Circle, Columbia, 410-964-9999

LB Bakery: Downtown diners will be happy to hear that LB Bakery inside the Lord Baltimore Hotel has expanded its weekday breakfast and lunch offerings. In addition to the regular grab-and-go items, the cafe now features a new menu with dishes like a Scottish smoked salmon bagel, garden omelet, crab cake sandwich, fish and chips, and crispy Buffalo or Old Bay chicken wings. 20 W. Baltimore St., 410-539-8400

Urban Deli: Federal Hill locals have been making this cozy café a destination for morning coffee and hangover breakfast sandwiches since it opened on Light Street in the spring of 2016. Now, the eatery from longtime neighborhood resident Laura McCormack is relocating to larger digs a few blocks north. Expected to debut in March, the new Urban Deli location will take over the former home of Wok & Roll at 1025 Light Street, and serve an array of paninis, soups, salads, baked goods, and local Towson Hot Bagels. According to reports by The Sun, the former Urban Deli space is being converted by its next-door neighbors at In Bloom. Husband-and-wife owners Kevin Perry and Cecilia Benalcazar are opening their own deli in the space, offering sandwiches, smoothies, coffee, and grab and go pantry items. 1448 Light St.

NEWS

Ouzo Bay and Loch Bar Head South: Beginning next fall, Baltimore locals will be able to get a little taste of home while visiting H-Town. Atlas Restaurant Group recently announced that it will soon be expanding its Harbor East concepts Ouzo Bay and Loch Bar to the luxe River Oaks retail district (think shops like Cartier, Dior, and Harry Winston) in Houston, Texas. The new spots will both mimic their flagships, with Ouzo Bay’s signature Mediterranean flair and Loch Bar’s token seafood menu and lengthy whiskey list. 4444 Westheimer Road, Houston, Texas.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

2/1: Mashin’ It Up: A Cider Dinner with Hersh’s and Minnow
In honor of this week’s CiderCon festivities, South Baltimore hotspots Hersh’s and Minnow are teaming up to offer diners a collaborative four-course menu paired with imported ciders from as far as the Basque Country and Normandy. Josh Hershkovitz of Hersh’s and Minnow chef Drew Lesoveck present dishes such as a warm octopus salad with spicy pickled garlic, oyster mushroom and prosciutto croquettes, merluza (a cod-like fish often used in Spanish cooking) served with chorizo focaccia and braised fennel, and a brown sugar molasses cake with cider-poached oranges. Minnow, 2 E. Wells St., 6 p.m., $82, 443-759-6537

2/3: Ice Cream for Breakfast at The Charmery
One morning per year, the team at The Charmery in Hampden opens its doors early to serve its customers sweet treats for breakfast. This weekend, break the rules and indulge in witty flavors including red velvet pancakes, cornflakes and milk, and biscuits and gravy. Plus, there will be Belgian waffles cooked to order, cold brew coffee milkshakes, and a special “Cereal Bowl” special filled with five baby scoops of your choosing. 801 W. 36th St., 10 a.m., 410-814-0493

SHUT

Tavern on the Hill: On the heels of multiple closures throughout the city, Mt. Vernon’s Tavern on the Hill recently announced that it will be shuttering its doors for good on Sunday, February 4. Owner Lee Cohen opened the pub in 2013, and it has since become a favorite for diners in search of all-day breakfast, weekly dinner deals, wine and whiskey tastings, and a sunny patio for dining al fresco. “We want to take this time to thank everyone who made the Tavern a great neighborhood bar and kept us alive for five years,” reads a post on the restaurant’s Facebook page. To show its gratitude throughout closing weekend, the bar will offer customer appreciation specials including 20 percent off of your check on Friday, half-priced cocktails on Saturday, and all-day food and drink deals on Sunday. 900 Cathedral St., 410-230-5400