COMING SOON

Ministry of Brewing: Over the summer, we gave you a sneak peek at this new beer destination that has taken shape inside St. Michael’s Church in Upper Fells Point. Though locals were keeping their fingers crossed that the brewery would officially open last weekend, final inspections were still underway. But, to give antsy beer lovers a first taste at their signature brews, Ministry has taken over three taps at Canton’s Hudson Street Stackhouse with its “Wispy” hazy pale ale, “The Point” Czech pilsner, and “Old Maude” English brown ale. As for the actual space, the team is eager to open as soon as all the loose ends are tied up—which could be any day now.

Ekiben: The rumors are true. This week, Ekiben owners Steve Chu and Ephrem Abebe gave fans of their famous steamed bun sandwiches an early holiday present by confirming what the local food scene has been speculating for weeks now. Come early 2020, the Fells Point favorite will open a second eatery on the Avenue in Hampden. In a video posted to Instagram, the owners officially announced the new location that is reportedly taking over the former TigerStyle space in the alley behind Avenue Kitchen and Bar. The beloved Asian-fusion concept, which got its start at the Fells Point farmers’ market in 2014, has made a name for itself in the local dining scene—and beyond—for its staples like the Thai chicken meatballs, Taiwanese curry fried chicken, tofu nuggets in spicy peanut sauce, and tempura broccoli. Here’s hoping all of the signature dishes, and Ekiben’s frequent food collaborations, will carry over in the new space.

Neo Pizza: Signage recently spotted above the former AJ’s Deli stall at Mount Vernon Marketplace indicates that this Maryland pizza chain—which has locations in Bel Air and Annapolis—will be opening in the space in the coming months. Neo Pizza specializes in wood-fired pies, craft beer, and worldly wines. Its current locations also offer smaller plates like meatballs and fried calamari, as well as salads, burgers, and club sandwiches. The communal market, which highlights everything from dumplings and charcuterie to Indian bowls and Greek fare, hasn’t seen a pizza spot since Cocina Al Volo closed earlier this year.

CH-CH CHANGES

Sorrento of Arbutus: For more than 50 years, this neighborhood haunt has been the place to go for a quality slice in Arbutus. Owner Ella Kostinsky recently took to Facebook to announce that, although the restaurant will be sticking around for generations to come, she is planning to retire and pass the torch. “Change is inevitable and important in order to grow, and bring innovation within our community,” Kostinsky wrote. “I am excited to begin the next chapter in my life, and just as excited for the next chapter of Sorrentos.” In her message, she thanks longtime customers for their support, and assures that the new owner—who has more than 40 years of experience in the food business—will be preserving the spot’s name and secret pizza recipe. “I feel confident the new owner will grow the restaurant,” she said. “and that it will become even bigger and better.”

EPICUREAN EVENTS

12/28: Battle of the Birdland Wing Festival

Back in its fourth year, this celebration of all things wings is taking over Delia Foley’s in Federal Hill this weekend. The price of admission includes two drink tickets, a bottomless wing buffet, live music, and cash bar specials from 12-4 p.m. But the main events are the wing-eating contests—the first of which will be a race to see who can demolish 30 wings in the shortest span of time. The following “Hellhound Challenge,” which unsurprisingly requires a waiver, will crown the first eater who finishes 10 flaming-hot wings in a sauce that clocks in at a base of 9 million Scolvill units—which are used to measure pungency.

2/23-25: The Charmery Presents Harry Potter and the Sorcerer’s Stone

We know, we know—February feels like a lifetime away. But The Charmery’s full-sensory movie showings tend to sell out quickly, so this is one to have on your radar early. The ice cream factory at Union Collective has previously hosted screenings of films including The Princess Bride and Elf with accompanying themed treats, and now it’s transforming into a Hogwarts-themed wonderland. See the first movie in the Harry Potter franchise like you’ve never experienced it before with a self-served popcorn bar, special punch, and other treats that correlate with scenes in the movie. $30

Something’s brewing (literally) inside St. Michael’s Church in Fells Point.

This fall, Ministry of Brewing will open to the public inside the 19th-century landmark, located on the northeast corner of Lombard and South Wolfe streets. The brewery aims to bring a classic rotation of beers and a unique gathering spot to the neighborhood.

General manager Jon Holley predicts the novel idea of a church brewery is unlike anything neighbors will likely expect, especially when they step inside the church and look up toward the vast barrel vault ceiling.

“When I came on board, I was like, ‘Oh, a church brewery—that’s cool,’” he says. “But then walking in here I think my jaw dropped. There’s nothing really like this anywhere. We just want to have a good atmosphere, good food, good beer, and good people.”

Built in 1857, the church was designed by Baltimore architect Louis Long in the style of early Romanesque Revival. It served the “significant waves of German Catholic immigrants that settled in East Baltimore during the mid-19th century and the Redemptorists who took charge of these German Catholics as part of their mission here in Baltimore,” according to National Register of Historic Places.

It became the oldest continuously operating Redemptorist Catholic church in Baltimore. After most recently serving Hispanic parishioners, St. Michael’s closed in 2011. It was abandoned until Ministry of Brewing partners—Jeff Hunt, Michael Powell, Ernst Valery and David Wendell—bought the building in 2017, with a deal closing in 2018.

The church first caught the eye of Valery, a real estate developer. As more partners became involved, a brewery felt like the right fit for the church’s next life. Hunt—who also opened MadTree Brewing in Cincinnati, Ohio—says that turning the building into a 250-seat brewery has been a “unique undertaking.”

Beer hall–style tables are made from wood reclaimed from the church, with the brewery’s logo burned into the center of each. Food will be available, and Holley says to expect pub fare such as baskets of flavored popcorn, burgers and flatbreads.

A large bar, around 40 feet long, will soon be covered with a crushed oyster shell concrete bar top. The bar will initially serve classic beer styles—all made by Ministry of Brewing—such as a fruit-forward IPA, a pilsner, and a sour. Head brewer Dave Macala will use a 20-barrel system, with the equipment fittingly perched on the altar.

“He’s excited to do some pretty unique things with beer,” Holley says. “We’re going to get pretty nerdy with it.” Holley adds that the beers will be available draft only to start, and self-distribution plans around town are in the works.

Along with the beer hall tables replacing where rows of pews once were, patrons will find a lounge underneath the choir loft with low tables, cozy love seats, and couches. A platform with stairs, which is closer to the altar on the right-hand side, will lead out to a small outdoor courtyard with additional tables.

The partners are preserving as much as they can to honor the church’s history. A number of specialized sub-contractors are working to restore the grand columns and one of the saint murals on the ceiling, as well as lightening the interior paint. The Stations of the Cross are also being touched up and will be filled with acoustical material to mitigate noise levels.

Holley says when the partners first got into the building, the stained glass was gone and only eight pews remained. They’re currently refurbishing the leftover pews to use as booths around some of the tables. Wendell says vandalism was apparent, but patrons will see a completely different sight come early fall.

Church breweries are not particularly new, but still rare. In 2017, the Associated Press reported that since 2011, at least 10 breweries opened inside old churches in the US, with four more slated to open the following year. One of the closest church breweries to Baltimore is the renowned The Church Brew Works in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, which opened in 1996 inside what was formerly known as St. John the Baptist.

Often the goal with church breweries is to create a “wow” factor and revitalize a historic piece of property that’s been left to dust and decay.

“Neighbors come in here and say, ‘My parents got married in this church,’” Holley says. “It’s so cool to be a part of it and hear all the stories.”

He says that Ministry of Brewing hopes to offer tours to curious patrons who want to learn more about St. Michael’s history.

Adds Hunt: “We want to preserve the place and be respectful of what it was, but at the same time, transform it.”