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	<title>Off the Eaten Path &#8211; Baltimore Magazine</title>
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	<description>The Best of Baltimore Since 1907</description>
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	<title>Off the Eaten Path &#8211; Baltimore Magazine</title>
	<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com</link>
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		<title>Slurping Giant Bowls of Pho at This Catonsville Spot Sparks Immediate Joy</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/review-pho-saigon-catonsville-pho-northern-vietnamese-food/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Amy Scattergood]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 05 May 2026 17:40:11 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Off the Eaten Path]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=182563</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Another strip mall off of Baltimore National Pike, another fantastic under-the-radar restaurant. Making perhaps the best pho I&#8217;ve found so far this side of Virginia, Pho Saigon is an often-packed, cheerful place, with red paper dragons hanging from the ceiling, an ad hoc family altar against one wall, colorful art, and flowers and lanterns adorning &#8230; <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/review-pho-saigon-catonsville-pho-northern-vietnamese-food/">Continued</a>]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Another strip mall off of Baltimore National Pike, another fantastic under-the-radar restaurant.</p>
<p>Making perhaps the best pho I&#8217;ve found so far this side of Virginia, Pho Saigon is an often-packed, cheerful place, with red paper dragons hanging from the ceiling, an ad hoc family altar against one wall, colorful art, and flowers and lanterns adorning every surface. And then there are the enormous bowls of pho, coming in dozens of variations, arriving at your table with heaping mounds of fresh herbs, chiles, and sprouts to add at will.</p>
<p>Owner Kenny Tran and his family have presided over the place since it opened, but Tran officially took over this location from his brother-in-law in 2013 and now runs it with his wife. The Tran family has a long history as restaurateurs, having owned and operated a series of them in the Baltimore area for thirty years, when they were among the first pho shops to open in Maryland. Tran and his family are originally from Saigon. They moved to Southern California&#8217;s San Fernando Valley and then to Maryland—a trajectory that makes sense for a military family.</p>
<p>One of the many things that makes Pho Saigon a destination spot for many—and not just the nearby UMBC students who often come in groups—is the ample vegetarian and vegan menu, as Tran&#8217;s wife is vegan. This is exceedingly welcome, and not as frequent as you might think, because although Vietnamese cuisine prioritizes fresh herbs, vegetables, rice noodles, and broth, pho is traditionally made with long-simmered beef broth. Not to mention loaded with variations of cow: raw flank, tendon, tripe, etc. (The name &#8220;pho&#8221; is likely derived from the French &#8220;pot-au-feu,&#8221; a classic dish of simmered beef and veg.)</p>
<p>During a recent weekday lunch service, Tran took orders and directed deliveries not only of hubcap-sized bowls of pho, but of still lifes of vegetables, herbs, meats, vermicelli, and sauces arranged on the wicker-basket plates that are in the style of North Vietnam. Tran&#8217;s menu, it should be said, is enormous. There are the phos, as well as seafood omelets, wontons, spring rolls, bánh mì, rice dishes, and more regional specialties. And you can wash all this goodness down with one of their delicious Thai tea drinks—with the top sealed like a big cup of boba—of which they make some 500-800 per week.</p>
<p>And then there&#8217;s the Pho Challenge, an annual contest that draws between 60 and 80 folks who attempt to consume an utterly massive bowl, containing about two pounds each of noodles and meats. Photos on the wall attest to winners, some of whom have managed to accomplish this in under 15 minutes. Having just failed to consume the contents of a normal bowl, albeit the large one, I just can&#8217;t imagine. Though I will happily give it a try—especially as the thought of bingeing a bowl of noodle soup is a lot more appealing than, say, 83 hot dogs (Joey Chestnut&#8217;s record).</p>
<p>Did I mention that Pho Saigon makes its own chile sauce? Probably should.</p>

<p><a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/review-pho-saigon-catonsville-pho-northern-vietnamese-food/" rel="nofollow">Source</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
					
		
		
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		<title>Tea Horse Sichuan Bistro Brings the Traditional Dishes of Chengdu to Ellicott City</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/review-tea-horse-sichuan-bistro-traditional-dishes-of-chengdu-ellicott-city/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Amy Scattergood]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 26 Mar 2026 16:54:49 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Off the Eaten Path]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=180987</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[For those of us who crave soup dumplings, mapo tofu, and Sichuan dry hot pot on a regular basis—by which I mean, we dream of Chinese banquets and wake up desperate for water-boiled fish and toothpick lamb—a visit to Ellicott City&#8217;s Tea Horse Sichuan Bistro is a much-needed pilgrimage. Open since 2023 on a stretch &#8230; <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/review-tea-horse-sichuan-bistro-traditional-dishes-of-chengdu-ellicott-city/">Continued</a>]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>For those of us who crave soup dumplings, mapo tofu, and Sichuan dry hot pot on a regular basis—by which I mean, we dream of Chinese banquets and wake up desperate for water-boiled fish and toothpick lamb—a visit to Ellicott City&#8217;s <a href="https://www.teahorsemd.com/">Tea Horse Sichuan Bistro</a> is a much-needed pilgrimage.</p>
<p>Open since 2023 on a stretch of Baltimore National Pike, Tea Horse is the third restaurant from owner Ping Wu, whose first restaurant, Orient Express in Charles Village, has been around for decades. Her second, Towson&#8217;s Red Pepper Sichuan Bistro, opened in 2019. Another Tea Horse debuted in Silver Spring last September.</p>
<p>The Ellicott City Tea Horse is a vast and beautiful 6,000-square-foot space featuring a dining room, cocktail bar, three private dining areas, a giant flatscreen showing sports, and a lovely open kitchen where you can watch the chefs make your dishes.</p>
<p>Those chefs—most from Chengdu, the capital city of the Sichuan province and the seat of that region&#8217;s diverse and sophisticated cuisine—are led by executive chef ZheXin Zheng, who is also from Chengdu and runs Wu&#8217;s other kitchens, as well. As with her other restaurants, Wu and Zheng have crafted food that is true to their home country&#8217;s regional cuisine.</p>
<p>The food of Sichuan is characterized by its fondness for chiles, which heat up many dishes in both fresh and dried variations, and in the form of chile oil. Zheng makes his own, and it&#8217;s glorious. Just as important are Sichuan peppercorns, which lend the distinctive heat and numbness, called mala, to recipes. (Folktales credit the peppercorns for allowing a greater consumption of chiles, a great story either way.)</p>
<p>The dish that probably shows this off best is the visually stunning whole fish with peppercorns, garlic, cilantro, and glass noodles. It&#8217;s a deconstructed version of the traditional bowl of water-boiled fish, and it&#8217;s as lovely as it is addictively delicious.</p>
<p>Tea Horse has a small menu of American-Chinese dishes (General Tso&#8217;s chicken, orange chicken, beef broccoli), but it specializes in, and excels at, the traditional dishes of Chengdu. Glossy, gorgeous, and photo-heavy, the large menu reads like a food version of <em>Vogue, </em>highlighting traditional dishes like Big Plate Chicken, Peking Duck, cumin lamb, spicy pork trotters, pork intestines in chile sauce, and a marvelous iteration of mei cai kou rou, or steamed pork belly with preserved mustard greens—a party dish I first had at a lychee farm and restaurant in Guangdong. (Order this, but please bring many friends; it is a party dish for good reason.)</p>
<p>There are also terrific versions of more familiar dishes, such as mapo tofu, soup dumplings, wontons in chile oil, dan dan noodles, salt-and-pepper shrimp, and scallion pancakes. Many of these can also be found at Wu&#8217;s other restaurants closer to the city—Zheng chefs them all—but what makes <a href="https://www.instagram.com/teahorsemd/">Tea Horse</a> worth the trip is the sheer size of it. In particular, those private dining rooms, each furnished with intricately carved wooden chairs, as well as tables sporting the massive lazy Susans that make Chinese banqueting so much fun.</p>
<p>A stunning mural stretching the length of one entire wall visually explains the restaurant&#8217;s name. The Tea Horse Road was part of the historic Silk Road, the network of Asian trade routes that ran for over a thousand years, connecting China to the West. The Tea Horse Road connected the merchants of Sichuan, Yunnan, and Tibet to the rest of China and beyond, trading tea and war horses, as well as other necessary items.</p>
<p>So you can consider the route, painted with all the pretty horses, plus mountains and Chinese characters, while you enjoy your plate of spicy pork ribs and try out the stellar cocktail menu, which currently honors the Year of the Fire Horse. This translates into drinks from Maryland distiller Covalent Spirits, helmed by husband-and-wife Drew Cockley and Jennifer Yang, another Chinese-American team (oolong vodka!).</p>
<p>And then there&#8217;s that open kitchen, where you can watch the chefs firing the line of woks and forming and steaming all those dumplings to fill their bamboo baskets. It&#8217;s a reminder, should you need it, of what goes into traditional Sichuan food: the skill, the care, and the remarkable, intricate, craveable flavors.</p>

<p><a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/review-tea-horse-sichuan-bistro-traditional-dishes-of-chengdu-ellicott-city/" rel="nofollow">Source</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
					
		
		
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		<title>A New Thai Spot from the Bodhi Corner Family Has Set Up Shop in Stoneleigh</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/charm-thai-corner-stoneleigh-review-northern-thai-food-bodhi-corner-owners/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Amy Scattergood]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 12 Mar 2026 16:16:08 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Off the Eaten Path]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=180256</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[In the few months since Charm Thai Corner took over the Stoneleigh location that was previously home to chef Carlos Raba&#8217;s late, lamented taquería Nana—which closed last April—there&#8217;s been a steady stream of customers, mostly locals, who&#8217;ve come over for bowls of Massaman curry, drunken noodles, and papaya salad. Open since Halloween, Charm Thai is &#8230; <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/charm-thai-corner-stoneleigh-review-northern-thai-food-bodhi-corner-owners/">Continued</a>]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>In the few months since <a href="https://www.charmthaicornermd.com/">Charm Thai Corner</a> took over the Stoneleigh location that was previously home to chef Carlos Raba&#8217;s late, lamented taquería <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/chef-carlos-raba-clavel-profile-expands-with-solo-restaurant-nana-stoneleigh/">Nana</a>—which closed last April—there&#8217;s been a steady stream of customers, mostly locals, who&#8217;ve come over for bowls of Massaman curry, drunken noodles, and papaya salad.</p>
<p>Open since Halloween, Charm Thai is the fourth location from Jack Wongchalee, who is also behind Bodhi Corner in Hampden, Bodhi Federal Hill, and <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/review-the-dara-thai-food-fells-point/">The Dara</a> in Fells Point—which has made our Best Restaurants list since it opened two years ago.</p>
<p>Charm Thai&#8217;s kitchen is helmed by a staff mostly from Chiang Mai, the Northern Thai capital known for its excellent cuisine. This is demonstrated in the large and varied menu, which features the wonderful Northern Thai coconut-curry noodle soup, khao soi—a dense bowl of chicken legs, pickled mustard greens, red onions, and fresh lime that&#8217;s characteristically topped with crispy noodles.</p>
<p>Rich, complex, and exceedingly flavorful, the masterful blend of fresh and pickled ingredients is an astonishing dish, and not on as many Thai restaurant menus as it should be. It&#8217;s the best tricked-out iteration of chicken noodle soup you&#8217;ll find, and worth the trek in and of itself.</p>
<p>There is also the expected pad Thai, pad see ew (the street-food staple of stir-fried wide rice noodles, greens, eggs, and other protein; very good), drunken noodles, four types of curry, and four kinds of fried rice, plus dumplings, crab rangoon, tom yum soup, larb, and various satays and shrimp cakes.</p>
<p>Which is to say that the kitchen packs a great deal of splendid food into a small space. The layout includes the open kitchen, which takes up half the room, as well as two counters with a row of small cafe tables in between them.</p>
<p>As with most good Thai restaurants, you will get the option of calibrating the spice level for your meal, a handy feature. If you&#8217;re unsure—or sharing with others who are not, sadly, chileheads—your server (the chef&#8217;s nephew) will bring you a pretty trio of pots loaded with spices and hot sauces so you can adjust accordingly. (Note to self: these would make great housewarming gifts.)</p>
<p>With a cozy, casual atmosphere, fast and friendly service, and an unexpected breadth of offerings, <a href="https://www.instagram.com/charmthaicorner/">Charm Thai</a> is a great find, as well as a welcome rejuvenation of the location—a 1924 building that originally housed a pharmacy—that Raba spent years renovating.</p>
<p>So get a curry, maybe some chive dumplings, and definitely a bowl of that khao soi, then maybe wander a block south for an ice cream from The Charmery, or a game of duckpin at Stoneleigh Lanes, for a perfect multicultural night out.</p>

<p><a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/charm-thai-corner-stoneleigh-review-northern-thai-food-bodhi-corner-owners/" rel="nofollow">Source</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
					
		
		
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		<title>Spice Kitchen West African Grill Turns Up the Flavor at Canton&#8217;s Can Company</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/review-spice-kitchen-west-african-grill-canton-can-company/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Amy Scattergood]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 03 Mar 2026 18:33:19 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Off the Eaten Path]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/?p=180077</guid>

					<description><![CDATA[Canton&#8217;s stretch of Boston Street around the Safeway is mostly populated by chains—Starbucks, Outback Steakhouse, Chipotle—and not particularly noteworthy dining options, with the exception of Peter Chang&#8217;s Sichuan restaurant, NiHao. But the Can Company shopping complex got an upgrade two and a half months ago with the opening of Spice Kitchen West African Grill. The &#8230; <a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/review-spice-kitchen-west-african-grill-canton-can-company/">Continued</a>]]></description>
										<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Canton&#8217;s stretch of Boston Street around the Safeway is mostly populated by chains—Starbucks, Outback Steakhouse, Chipotle—<span data-olk-copy-source="MessageBody">and not particularly noteworthy dining options, with the exception of Peter Chang&#8217;s Sichuan restaurant, NiHao. </span>But the Can Company shopping complex got an upgrade two and a half months ago with the opening of <a href="https://spicekitchengrill.com/">Spice Kitchen West African Grill</a>.</p>
<p>The spot is fast-casual rather than white-tablecloth, but it&#8217;s cheerful and spacious, with a full bar, three flatscreens mostly showing sports, and walls decorated with unexpectedly beautiful rugs.</p>
<p>The menu is West African, featuring jollof rice, the deeply flavorful, burnt-orange-colored rice dish that&#8217;s a staple of Senegalese, Nigerian, and Ghanaian cuisine; efo riro, a Yoruba deep-green spinach stew; and variants of suya, the popular Nigerian street food of grilled meats seasoned with the peanut-based spice blend called yaji.</p>
<p>Honoring his Nigerian culture, owner Olu Shokunbi opened his first Spice Kitchen as a D.C. ghost kitchen about five years ago. A brick-and-mortar in Hyattsville followed in 2024, plus a food truck mostly parked in Bowie. Before the Canton location opened, Shokunbi did a number of pop-ups, notably at Remington&#8217;s R. House and as part of the DMV&#8217;s Black Restaurant Week.</p>
<p>The <a href="https://www.instagram.com/spicekitchengrill">Canton location</a> is extremely user-friendly, with a big parking lot off of Boston Street, QR codes, a digital ordering screen, a large dining room, and a second smaller (and very cozy) lounge and dining area. Service is fast and friendly, and the food is exceptional.</p>
<p>There are lots of appetizers, including wings and excellent caramelized plantains. The suya comes in various iterations, including chicken, steak, salmon, lamb, shrimp. Order a side of the &#8220;stew,&#8221; which is basically a cup of hot sauce, and do not overlook the jollof rice.</p>
<p>Though jollof has many regional variations and ingredients, at its most basic, it&#8217;s super-charged rice, laced with tomatoes, peppers, onions, and spices. And it is a superb accompaniment to all those spicy chunks of meat or fish. The efo riro is also not to be missed, as it&#8217;s surprisingly fresh and as necessary to your meal as a batch of good collard greens is to an order of fried chicken.</p>
<p>There are many non-alcoholic drinks to wash it all down, such as zobo lemonade—a Nigerian combination of lemonade and hibiscus—and mango-passion fruit lemonade. There is also, of course, that long, well-stocked bar that runs much of the length of the dining room. During warmer months, there&#8217;s an outdoor patio. And happily for the neighborhood, especially considering all the available space both inside and out, there are weekend sports watch parties, karaoke nights, and, unsurprisingly, happy hours.</p>
<p>Bright and cheery with inexpensive, deeply flavorful, and extremely well-executed food, Spice Kitchen is a very welcome addition to an area in need of more interesting dining options. And it&#8217;s a splendid place to eat before or after a Safeway run.</p>

<p><a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/review-spice-kitchen-west-african-grill-canton-can-company/" rel="nofollow">Source</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
					
		
		
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		<title>Review: Pepe&#8217;s Pizza</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/review-pepes/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jess Mayhugh]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 23 Jan 2015 08:30:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Local Flavor]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Mt. Washington]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Off the Eaten Path]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Pepe's Pizza]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[restaurant review]]></category>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://server2.local/BIT-SPRING/baltimoremagazine.com/html/?post_type=article&#038;p=7236</guid>

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			<p><b>As a neighborhood eatery, Pepe&#8217;s Pizza</b> on Falls Road is hard to beat. It&#8217;s been around seemingly forever (actually since 1979). It&#8217;s family-run. (Andy Makris took over after the murder of his father, Peter, in 2000.) And its vast menu offers pretty much everything you could ever want at a deli/diner/family restaurant. (Pizza? Check. Gyros? Check. Burgers, Maryland crab soup, and salads? Check, check, and check.) It&#8217;s no wonder that North Baltimore families have depended on Pepe&#8217;s dine-in and carryout options for decades. </p>
<p>So it was with great interest that we watched Pepe&#8217;s recent $1.5-million renovation, including an expansion that doubled its size. We wondered: Would the new Pepe&#8217;s retain its humble charm? (We hoped so.) And would the spiffed-up digs prompt a similarly spiffed-up menu? (We hoped not.)</p>
<p>With its new seating area, flat-screen TVs, and earth tones, the updated dining room is a comfortable, if slightly generic, spot for noshing, but the constant bustle of families and kids (with a heavy representation from area private schools) keeps the vibe feeling cheerful and homey. </p>
<p>Except for a few additions (Makris decided to add fried chicken at the request of the construction crews), the menu is largely unchanged. The signature subs boast fillings ranging from Italian meatballs to jumbo fried shrimp and remain satisfying. On a rainy, late-fall night, we opted for the 16-inch eggplant parmigiana and chicken parmigiana subs (both $14.50) and found ourselves rewarded with toasted-bread torpedoes filled with gooey mozzarella, tangy tomato sauce, and thick layers of breaded eggplant and chicken cutlets. </p>
<p>On another occasion, we tried a lamb gyro ($6.50 sandwich, $9.50 platter) stuffed with thin slices of tender meat; lettuce, tomatoes, and onions; and a slightly over-generous dollop of<i> tzatziki </i>sauce. An accompanying Greek salad ($6.95-10.95) leaned a little too heavily on the feta, but the curly fries ($3.95) were golden coils of perfection. </p>
<p>Pepe&#8217;s is also open for breakfast, and regulars swear by its platters of eggs, scrapple, sausage, French toast, and breakfast sandwiches. </p>
<p>Whether starting or ending your day at Pepe&#8217;s, it&#8217;s likely you&#8217;ll find exactly what you want. We couldn&#8217;t be happier that at Pepe&#8217;s, the more things change, the more they stay the same. </p>
<hr>
<p><b>›› </b><b>Pepe&#8217;s Pizza: </b><i>6081 Falls Rd., 410-377-3287. Hours: Mon.-Thurs. and Sat. 5:30 a.m.-11 p.m., Fri. 5:30 a.m.-12 a.m., Sun. 5:30 a.m.-10 p.m. Breakfast: 85¢-$10.50; pizza: $9.95 and up; entrees $2.50-23.95; sides: $2.95-4.75; desserts: $2.99-3.99. </i></p>

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<p><a href="https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/review-pepes/" rel="nofollow">Source</a></p>]]></content:encoded>
					
		
		
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		<title>Canton Corner Bar Gets Renovated</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/canton-corner-bar-gets-renovated/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jess Mayhugh]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 06 Aug 2014 08:30:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Canton]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Canton Bars]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Local Flavor]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Off the Eaten Path]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Silks Bar]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Wings in Baltimore]]></category>
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			<p><strong>Jockey Victor Espinoza wore shiny purple silks </strong>as he crossed the finish line aboard California Chrome at the Preakness. Across town, patrons catching the race at one of Canton’s newest bars wore big, saucy smiles. Most hadn’t even won bets, but a Saturday spent at Silks, a stylish pub whose name pays homage to jockeys’ garb and whose menu features a blend of craft and down-home beer, delicious cocktails, and tasty food, is always a winning ticket. For years, the bar on the corner of Hudson Street and South Lakewood Avenue with the tacky sporting-goods mural outside was an enigma. It never seemed open. Was it a speakeasy? A private club? A dive with unusual hours? Who knows? And now, who cares? When new owners renovated, they rid it of practically everything but the name. A lacquered, dark wood bar, staffed by talented and jovial bartenders, runs practically the length of the building. With open windows allowing in plenty of sunlight and a cool breeze on a nice day, it’s one of the most outdoor-like indoor places to drink in the neighborhood.</p>
<p>There’s also a small dining room, but make no mistake, Silks is more bar than restaurant. Which is not to say that its kitchen doesn’t turn out classic tavern fare that’s a cut above. Start with an order of wings (10 for $9.99), prepared confit-style for an interesting twist. You’ll find burgers (the Juicy Lucy, with the cheese on the inside, is $10.19), cheesesteaks ($9.80), and chicken sandwiches (topped with crab dip and cheddar for $10.50), along with entrees like fish and chips ($11.99), Cajun salmon cakes ($11.99), and even a prime rib. While it’s not quite Capital Grille-quality, the steak, served with a vegetable and garlic mashed potatoes, is a bargain at $19.99.</p>
<p>Whatever you order, it’s wise to grab a side of fries. Sidewinders, as they’re called, are a delicious hybrid steak and curly fry, doused with salt and served piping hot. They’re plump and flavorful, and a plate of them makes a perfect side or snack. The cocktail menu features an array of sublime libations. The blueberry margarita, made with Avion Silver tequila, fresh-squeezed lime juice, muddled blueberries, triple sec, and agave nectar, is one of the most refreshing drinks&mdash;in one of the most refreshing new/old bars&mdash;in the city.</p>
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			<h4><strong>›› </strong><a href="https://www.facebook.com/silksbarcanton">Silks,</a><em> 2641 Hudson Street, 443-708-0317. Hours: 4 p.m.-2 a.m. Mon.-Thurs., 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Fri., 10 a.m.-2 a.m. Sat.-Sun. Appetizers: $6.80-10.50; sandwiches: $6.80-11.49; entrees: $11.99-19.99.</em></h4>

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<h3>Mike Unger is a senior contributing writer for <em>Baltimore.</em></h3>

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		<title>Off The Eaten Path: Trinacria Cafe</title>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jess Mayhugh]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 07 Jul 2014 08:30:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dining review]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Italian]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Off the Eaten Path]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sandwiches]]></category>
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			<p><strong>For overstuffed sandwiches, </strong>pre-made lasagnas, and authentic Italian fare, it’s no secret that Trinacria, in business since 1908, sets the gold standard. (One might say they put the “deli” in delicious.) When rumors began circulating that a second Trinacria was opening (and, even better, staying open after 4:30 p.m.&mdash;the original’s somewhat random closing time) on the Westside,expectations ran high. Fortunately, the new Trinacria Cafe delivers (literally, too), though it’s less of a cafe and more of a cafeteria, which is fitting given its location on the former site of a Five Guys Burgers and Fries. Like the original location in Seton Hill, there’s no waitress service, as you place your order at the counter. The décor, brightened only by shelves stocked with imported canned tomatoes, dried pastas, and the like, could use some work, but there’s plenty of focus on the food. You need but one bite of the tender homemade sausage and beautifully balanced marinara sauce (order it as a side for a measly $3.95) to be reminded of this place’s pedigree. Most of the original’s sandwiches have made their way to the menu here. Thankfully, the prosciutto (with fresh mozzarella and pesto on foccacia for $7.50) and veggie (fresh mozzarella, artichoke hearts, roasted peppers, and tapenade for $6.95) are among the cold sandwich offerings, along with tasty paninis, and luscious hot subs, and salads. Also available are daily filled pastas and an unabashedly cheesy spinach lasagna, as well as sizable “personal” pizzas that could easily feed two. The pizzas are listed as “thin crust,” but are more like a flatbread (not insignificant to a pizza aficionado), but the toppings are of high quality and nicely composed. The “Sweet and Salty” ($9.75) is a good example, with lots of translucent caramelized onions, crisp prosciutto, chunks of kalamata olives, tangy mozzarella, and roasted garlic&mdash;perhaps surprising for a run-of-the-mill carry out, but here we would expect no less. All in all, Trinacria Cafe is a proud progeny of this third-generation Italian institution.</p>
<p>&nbsp;<strong>›› </strong><strong>Trinacria Cafe, </strong><em>111 W. Centre St., 443-759-4082, Hours: 9 a.m.-8 p.m. Mon.-Sat.; 8 a.m.-7 p.m. Sunday; appetizers: $3.50-8.95; entrees: $7.25-11.95; desserts: $3.69-4.99.</em></p>

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		<title>Off the Eaten Path: Rosario’s Italian Kitchen</title>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jess Mayhugh]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 30 May 2014 08:30:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[George Protopapas]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Off the Eaten Path]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Rosario’s Italian Kitchen]]></category>
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			<p>From busy Pulaski Highway, Rosario’s Italian Kitchen looks like just another lackluster chain restaurant&mdash;bland building, big parking lot, and even a drive-through window. But cast your disparagement aside. This unsuspecting gem has become one of our favorite go-to places. First, it’s not a conglomerate. It’s the loving creation of George Protopapas, who named the restaurant after its neighborhood, Rosedale. Opened in 2012, it already has a stable of regular diners. We’ve yet to go there&mdash;and we go a lot&mdash;when there’s not a big table celebrating a birthday or other festive occasion.</p>
<p>We understand the draw. The casual dining room is a sprawling, comfortable space of tables, booths, arches, and soothing colors. And the food is equally appealing.</p>
<p>While we lean toward the Italian dishes, the menu also features many American and Greek dishes, like a double cheeseburger deluxe or a gyro. There’s breakfast, too, including omelets, pancakes, and chipped beef.</p>
<p>The staff is polite and genial. After being seated for dinner, a server quickly brings hot, buttery bread sticks with marinara dipping sauce. Do indulge, but save room for the generous portions soon coming your way. </p>
<p>If you’re into sharing, the antipasto platter will get you off to a good start. It’s laden with cured meats like capicola and salami, fresh mozzarella, marinated mushrooms, roasted peppers, artichokes, tomatoes, olives, and more. And the cream-of-crab soup is worthy of any Marylander’s taste buds.</p>
<p>After a long day, we’re often drawn to the soul-satisfying spaghetti with meatballs&mdash;three giant spheres topping strands of noodles and homemade meat sauce. Add a side salad for 99 cents. Or try the meatloaf with brown gravy.</p>
<p>Desserts offer a range of flavors and styles. There’s baklava, carrot cake, a cannoli, and good, old-fashioned lemon-meringue pie, among other choices.</p>
<p>From the first time we walked in the door to our most recent visit, we’ve been impressed with the good spirit and attention to detail at Rosario’s. Don’t just drive by. It’s worth a stop.</p>

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		<title>Diner Days at Shoo-Fly</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/diner-days-at-shoo-fly/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jess Mayhugh]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 29 Apr 2014 08:30:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Amy Gjerde]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Off the Eaten Path]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Shoo-Fly Diner]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Spike Gjerde]]></category>
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			<p>Shoo-Fly Diner is not your typical Double T. There are no club sandwiches, no over-easy eggs, no buttered white-bread toast. Instead, owners Spike and Amy Gjerde&mdash;they’re practically household names these days because of their other power places, including Woodberry Kitchen&mdash;follow their social consciences to serve made-from-scratch, farm-fresh, locally sustained comfort food in a cute setting with possibly the sweetest servers in town. And what’s not to like about a restaurant that has a playroom for the kids? It’s as family-friendly as your own house except that someone else cleans up.</p>
<p>But not everything works at the eatery. The food is very brown, a lot of it fried, but when it scores, you’re happy to be there. The fried-chicken supper, a signature dish, is an example. The crisp, succulent pieces are tucked into a cast-iron skillet and accompanied by a rich gravy on the side. We could have skipped the cornbread, though, with its dense, hockey-puck-like consistency.</p>
<p>We started with Arkansas truffles&mdash;don’t be afraid to ask what they are. Who would know they are fried-pickle slices? They were crunchy and yummy, especially dipped into a fish-pepper ranch dressing in a baby-doll-size Mason jar. </p>
<p>The hush doggies&mdash;deep-fried, savory-sausage oblongs&mdash;were flavorful, too, with honey-mustard sauce. Of course, you can always douse your food with Spike Gjerde’s signature snake-oil sauce (a fish-pepper condiment) if you really need to spice it up.</p>
<p>Sandwiches include an oyster po’boy, grilled cheddar, and a scrappledelphia with scrapple as a key ingredient. Large plates feature meatloaf, spaghetti Bolognese, and a terrific pan-roasted catfish with baked grits and assorted pickled veggies. </p>
<p>Kids get a nod with offerings like mac ’n’ cheese, griddled PB&#038;J, a garden salad, and a chocolate-chip waffle.</p>
<p>Shoo-Fly’s namesake pie is so-so. We’d much rather indulge in the Mast Brothers chocolate pudding. It’s a bowl of velvety-smooth goodness with a creamy topping.</p>
<p>The restaurant may not have the “wow” factor of its Woodberry Kitchen sibling, but it suits a neighborhood need for a chummy place to gather with family and friends. </p>
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<p><strong>›› Shoo-Fly Diner,</strong> 510 E. Belvedere Ave., 410-464-9222. Hours: 4 p.m.-1 a.m. daily; breakfast, 9 a.m.-3 p.m. Sat.-Sun; snacks: $4-10; sandwiches: $7-16; large plates: $13-19; desserts: $4-10. </p>

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		<title>Dooby&#8217;s is much more than a coffee shop</title>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jess Mayhugh]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 16 Apr 2014 09:30:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[coffee]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[coffee shop]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Dooby’s Coffee]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Mt. Vernon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Off the Eaten Path]]></category>
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			<p>At first glance, Dooby’s may seem like a typical coffee shop. There are patrons glued to their MacBooks at communal tables and hard-working baristas behind the long marble counter. But a deeper look reveals so much more. Besides the thoughtful, well-brewed coffee (both pour-over and drip), there is the added bonus of a liquor license for local beers and creative cocktails. And while the Charles Street cafe has the same ordering format as a Panera, it features the menu of a sophisticated bistro. It’s also open for all three meals—a rarity in this town. Its owner Phil Han, who opened Dooby’s last fall, is an innovator. He also conceived the Hatch, an adjacent basement space that provides entrepreneurs with a place to open their businesses temporarily—usually six-to-eight weeks—and test out their concepts. Examples, so far, have been an oyster cellar, a holiday shop with local vendors, and a home-décor shop. </p>
<p>When we visited Dooby’s on a Saturday afternoon, we started off with the soup of the day—a generous portion of French onion with just the right amount of caramelized-onion flavor. We also loved the mushroom melt, <em>pictured</em>, with an array of portobello, shiitake, and buttons with melted Gruyère and roasted red peppers on sourdough bread. The earthy ’shrooms blended well with the creamy nuttiness of the cheese and the hint of sweetness from the peppers, while the sourdough remained crisp and hearty. We added a picante-poblano spread (an extra 25 cents) for a little kick. The carnivore in me didn’t even notice this was a vegetarian sandwich. </p>
<p>Also on the menu is a well-executed bahn mi with tender pork belly, tangy pickled carrots, an unexpected but pleasant honey-hoisin sauce, and Sriracha mayo, all on a French baguette. It was delicious, though the sandwich was a tad greasy. A nice touch: All of the sandwiches are served with a side of greens and a light vinaigrette—a welcome substitute for chips or fries.</p>
<p>The Mt. Vernon spot was packed during our visit with UB students sipping coffee on their open laptops and families chatting away in the dining room. With its creativity—both in concept and cuisine—Dooby’s crowds aren’t subsiding any time soon.</p>

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		<title>The Marquee Lounge merits its own billing</title>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jess Mayhugh]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 04 Mar 2014 09:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Highlandtown]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Marquee Lounge]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Off the Eaten Path]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[restaurant review]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[restaurants]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[The Creative Alliance]]></category>
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			<p>Sure, it’s convenient to stop at the Marquee Lounge for a beer and a<br />
bite to eat before or after a show at Creative Alliance at the Patterson<br />
 in Highlandtown. But you don’t really need a performance as an excuse<br />
to sidle up to the bar or take a seat at one of the restaurant’s bare<br />
wood tables. The small, lively bistro is a destination unto itself. For a<br />
 short time, the Hamilton restaurant Clementine managed the space,<br />
installing one of its former sous chefs in the kitchen. When the<br />
restaurateurs pulled out of the Creative Alliance, chef Jeremy Price<br />
stayed behind to oversee the seasonal, local offerings. And we’re glad<br />
he did. He’s constructed a tight, interesting menu with several items<br />
that have Asian influences. The food here is unfussy, yet exhilarating.<br />
The banh-mi sandwich, for example, is a hearty version of the Vietnamese<br />
 staple with Berkshire pork belly, silky chicken-liver pâté, house-made<br />
sausages, and kimchi vegetables stuffed into a crusty baguette that’s<br />
been slathered with chili-lime mayo.</p>
<p>Light fare ranges from<br />
wild-mushroom pancakes and sautéed kale to Korean Buffalo wings. We fell<br />
 in love with the “char-cu-te-rie,” an array of house-smoked duck<br />
breast, more of that pâté, a house-made pork terrine, a dollop of<br />
excellent blue cheese, house-made pickles, and enough toasted-bread<br />
slices for all of the parts. The blackened chicken nachos are easily a<br />
table snack: A pile of locally made Tortilleria Sinaloa nachos blanketed<br />
 with pickled-jalapeño cheese, pico de gallo, and crème fraîche.</p>
<p>The<br />
 night we visited, there were three entrees—chicken pot pie, a veggie<br />
noodle bowl, and a grilled Creekstone Farms steak with chimichurri<br />
sauce, mashed potatoes, and mixed vegetables. We’ll definitely go back<br />
another night for a full dinner.</p>
<p>The desserts are as homey and<br />
earnest as the savory choices. Though the flourless chocolate cake was a<br />
 temptation, we opted for a good-old-fashioned carrot cake that we’re<br />
sure was baked with tender, lovin’ care.</p>
<p>The tiny room was packed<br />
the night we visited. It’s a cozy environment with dark brick walls and<br />
wood and a bar that basks in a painted mural’s reds, oranges, and<br />
yellows—a gorgeous setting to enjoy cocktails, wine, or craft brews. And<br />
 the bartenders and servers are as congenial as the place.</p>
<p>The<br />
restaurant entrance is off the Creative Alliance’s lobby. And while the<br />
galleries and stage are a draw, the Marquee Lounge certainly deserves<br />
its own starring role.</p>

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		<title>Southern food comes to life at Georgia Soul Food</title>
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		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jess Mayhugh]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 24 Feb 2014 09:30:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Charles Village]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Georgia Soul Food]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Off the Eaten Path]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[southern food]]></category>
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			<p>When the vacant corner spot that once housed the venerable M &#038;<br />
J’s Soul Food at 25th and St. Paul streets began to show signs of<br />
activity earlier last year, we were giddy with anticipation for the<br />
comfort foods it promised. Finally, Georgia Soul Food opened in August<br />
and has already amassed a loyal following. Some hardcore enthusiasts may<br />
 decry the absence of soul-food pillars like hog maws and feet as<br />
heresy—the menu being a fairly vanilla roster of home-style dishes—but<br />
what Georgia does, it does well. The menu is straightforward with<br />
sections for chicken boxes, fish baskets, side dishes, desserts, and<br />
drinks. An “Everyday Meal” ($9.99) includes a main dish, like a turkey<br />
wing, two sides, and cornbread, and can be embellished with à-la-carte<br />
items that are almost anachronistically priced—for example, tilapia for<br />
$2.29, a pork chop for $2.19, and a fried chicken breast for $2.69.</p>
<p>On the restaurant’s website, <a href="http://georgiasoulfood.com">georgiasoulfood.com</a>,<br />
 the new proprietors promise satisfying Southern soul food culled from<br />
the recipes of six generations and three families. And they follow<br />
through. The collard greens—always a reliable barometer—offer plenty of<br />
smoked neck flavor with a little bit of a kick. The other sides are<br />
impressive, too, from the flavorful mac and cheese and green beans to<br />
gooey candied yams. The usually humble baked chicken is outstanding,<br />
seasoned from the skin right down to the bone, and the fried chicken and<br />
 fish are crispy and juicy. Salisbury steak with rice and gravy is a<br />
sleeper hit, and the fried pork chop (get it with gravy) is down-home<br />
delicious.</p>
<p>Whether you choose to carry out or sit in the sunny,<br />
cozy dining room, steal yourself for a lengthy wait (usually at least 30<br />
 minutes) for your food. Call ahead for to-go orders, and, for dining<br />
in, expect earnest but not exactly polished service. If your sweet tooth<br />
 hasn’t already been sated by the yams, you can count on desserts like<br />
banana pudding and sweet-potato pie to do the job.</p>
<p>We liked the<br />
peach cobbler, but, for a truly monumental sugar buzz, wash down your<br />
food with some cherry Kool-Aid. There is so much sugar in it that it<br />
actually feels heavy—but then, that is the proper soul-food way.</p>

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		<title>Ozra offers a different cuisine in Little Italy</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/ozra-offers-a-different-cuisine-in-little-italy/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jess Mayhugh]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 23 Jan 2014 12:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dining review]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Little Italy]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Max Tabasi]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Off the Eaten Path]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Ozra]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[restaurant review]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Reza Holland]]></category>
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			<p>If you’re not careful, you’ll walk right past the entrance to Ozra,<br />
 despite the flag bearing its name above an awning. The solid front door<br />
 doesn’t immediately distinguish itself as a place of business. But<br />
persevere. Gustatory pleasures await those who find their way inside.<br />
The two-level space sends a warm welcome with its gold-and-maroon<br />
accents against pale walls, bare-wood tables, subtle lighting, sitar<br />
music, and rows of glass containers, each encasing a delicate flower.<br />
The downstairs dining room can get noisy in the evening when a<br />
happy-hour crowd gathers at the small bar in the rear, but it’s a fine<br />
place to indulge in the restaurant’s intriguing Persian cuisine, which<br />
borrows from the dishes of India and other Middle Eastern countries, and<br />
 its Mediterranean fare.</p>
<p>We prefer the intimacy of the upstairs room, which is actually a<br />
mezzanine overlooking the lively scene below. (Note: It’s much quieter<br />
during lunchtime.) The building was once a bakery in Little Italy and is<br />
 just steps from the neighborhood’s iconic dessert place, Vaccaro’s.</p>
<p>Don’t worry about parking: If you can’t find a space on the street, a<br />
 garage is conveniently located next door. And the restaurant will stamp<br />
 your ticket at night, so the tariff is only $4.</p>
<p>In the restaurant, co-owners Reza Holland and Mahrdad “Max” Tabasi<br />
have created an understated, elegant setting as a backdrop for their<br />
wonderfully aromatic skewers, stews, and selection of basmati rices.<br />
But, like many restaurants, the kitchen tweaks the menu with seasonal<br />
favorites like two of its winter offerings: a Persian noodle soup and<br />
khoresht fesenjan with sautéed chicken, toasted walnuts, and pomegranate<br />
 sauce­­—with rice, of course!</p>
<p>Our servers—who were cheerful and helpful on both of our visits—were<br />
only too happy to explain how best to pair the fragrant cooked grain<br />
with all of the entrees.</p>
<p>Before you get to that point, though, a garlicky hummus is served at<br />
dinner to stave off any hunger pains while you decide on starters. You<br />
can order the various eggplant and homemade yogurt dips separately, but<br />
my friends and I enjoyed sharing the yogurt trio.</p>
<p>It’s fun trying to decide on a favorite—if you can even choose. Each<br />
creamy mix has its own personality: one with cucumbers and mint, another<br />
 with dried shallots, and the other, called borani, with spinach and<br />
garlic.</p>
<p>Another time, we delved into the eggplant baba, a tantalizing blend<br />
of puréed eggplant, onions, Persian goat cheese, and walnuts. It may not<br />
 be a beauty, but the brown concoction is great, especially scooped up<br />
with crisp pita-bread triangles.</p>
<p>The shirazi salad is a flavorful beginning, too. Its simplicity with<br />
cucumbers, tomatoes, red onions, and parsley, tossed with a citrus jus,<br />
belies the complexity of the whole. It didn’t take long for this dish to<br />
 disappear.</p>
<p>Now, back to the basmati decision. There are four types on the menu.<br />
The delicate, long-grain rice is available plain, with barberries (a<br />
tiny, bright-red fruit grown in Europe), with dill and fava beans, and<br />
with sour cherries, all dusted with saffron.</p>
<p>Our waitress suggested the dill-and-fava-bean rice with the khoresht<br />
ghormeh sabzi, a stew of fork-tender filet-mignon cubes, vegetables, and<br />
 red beans. The dense, meaty combo is served in a bowl, while the rice<br />
is decoratively arranged on a separate plate with red-onion slivers and a<br />
 charred, roasted tomato.</p>
<p>The kitchen pays attention to presentation with a series of pretty<br />
plates. The jumbo shrimp, marinated in a saffron-citrus-herb-sauce, were<br />
 carefully nestled like sleeping children on a plate, as was a strip of<br />
savory skewered ground sirloin (mixed in-house)—that coupled beautifully<br />
 with the sour-cherry basmatic rice.</p>
<p>The lamb chops are a specialty, our server said. We can see why. The<br />
four chops (three for lunch), seared on the outside, were moist and<br />
tender and went well with the tart barberries—they remind us of<br />
cranberries in taste—in the accompanying rice.</p>
<p>Desserts may seem familiar, but they are distinctive. The<br />
honey-drenched baklava, for instance—a pillowy, layered pastry—is made<br />
with almonds, a welcome variation from the traditional pistachios. The<br />
Persian ice cream is a heavenly ball of saffron and rosewater. And the<br />
lemon sorbet has an interesting texture with threads of frozen noodles.</p>
<p>This newest Little Italy restaurant is truly a find, once you’ve found the front door, that is.</p>

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		<title>Bread and Circuses lives up to its name</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/bread-and-circuses-lives-up-to-its-name/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jess Mayhugh]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 02 Nov 2013 10:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bread and Circuses]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Off the Eaten Path]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[restaurant review]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[restaurants]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Towson]]></category>
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			<p>At a time when so many of Towson’s downtown buildings have been<br />
razed and replaced by hulking structures, it’s nice to discover a modest<br />
 1920s cottage-turned-restaurant. And you have to love the name, Bread<br />
and Circuses Bistro and Bar—a term from Roman times that means wooing<br />
the populace with food and entertainment. On weekends, Bread and<br />
Circuses does indeed offer live music, but its draw is an eclectic menu<br />
of sandwiches, appetizers, and entrees that is available throughout the<br />
week with brunch on Sundays. In a past life, the restaurant was a coffee<br />
 shop called French Press until it started serving dinner three years<br />
ago, complete with beer, wine, and liquor.</p>
<p>The restaurant was quietly enjoyed by locals, but word has spread.<br />
The small dining rooms—a parlor filled with artsy knickknacks and a<br />
lower level with artwork for sale—fill quickly.  </p>
<p>One evening, we started with a garlicky tomato bruschetta with goat<br />
cheese and a silky Nantucket bisque with corn and crab. Both were<br />
excellent starters.</p>
<p>The kitchen was kind enough to split the shrimp and scallop Provençal<br />
 on two plates for us. There was more than enough to share, especially<br />
with the accompanying rice. Our chicken Mykonos was fragrant with<br />
spinach, feta, tomatoes, shallots, and a lemon-basil sauce.</p>
<p>A downside was an indifferent server, though that did not appear to<br />
be the norm. Our waiter spilled a good portion of wine as he aimed for<br />
our wine glass. He mopped it up a bit, leaving behind a stain and<br />
dribbles on the glass. Then, he walked away without even acknowledging<br />
the incident.</p>
<p>The cost of dessert ($7.95) also gave us pause until we realized most<br />
 of the offerings were luscious creations from Pâtisserie Poupon, the<br />
French bakery with locations in Baltimore and D.C.</p>
<p>On a lunch visit, the salmon Rushdie caught our eye. It’s a<br />
double-decker sandwich with grilled salmon, bacon, lettuce, tomato, and<br />
mayo—a delicious mouthful.</p>
<p>As new development spreads throughout the bustling Baltimore County<br />
seat, Bread and Circuses’s quaint bistro setting stands out for its<br />
individuality and down-to-earth food.</p>
<hr>
<p>›› <strong>Bread and Circuses Bistro and Bar,</strong> 401 Delaware<br />
Ave., Towson, 410-337-5282. Hours: 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Mon.-Fri., 4 p.m.-2<br />
a.m. Sat., 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday brunch. Appetizers: $6-12; sandwiches:<br />
$6-13; entrees, $12-28; desserts: $7.95.</p>

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		<title>Review of Red Red Wine</title>
		<link>https://www.baltimoremagazine.com/section/fooddrink/review-of-red-red-wine/</link>
		
		<dc:creator><![CDATA[Jess Mayhugh]]></dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 02 Sep 2013 09:00:00 +0000</pubDate>
				<category><![CDATA[Food & Drink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Off the Eaten Path]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Red Red Wine]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[restaurant review]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[restaurants]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Wine]]></category>
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			<p>Though the UB40 song “Red Red Wine” may be better known to an older  clientele, the reference hints at the identically named wine bar’s  intent. “We wanted to demystify wine drinking,” says Lisa Bolter, who  co-owns the Annapolis bistro with her husband Brian, who also anchors  the news on D.C.’s WTTG-TV. Indeed, a younger crowd seems drawn to the  rock vibe of the place, a kind of Goth-New Orleans frippery with  velveteen and damask banquettes, crystal chandeliers, and an  acoustic-tile ceiling painted matte black. The wine menu is peppered  with anecdotes&mdash;about lawyers-turned-winemakers and wines with hints of  strawberry or Lik-a-Stix candy. “A 90-point wine might not mean  anything” to this crowd, says Bolter, “but that it’s grown on land owned  by Dave Matthews” does.</p>
<p>Bottles are arranged on the wall under cheerful wooden signs  indicating “Bold,” “Bright,” “Sweet,” and “Dry,” available to drink on  site with a $10 corkage fee. There’s also an extensive list of wines by  the glass and a handful of wines on tap.</p>
<p>There are other drink choices, too. On a recent night, we had a  Dogfish Head Sixty-One&mdash;the Delaware brewery’s IPA with Syrah added  during the brewing process.</p>
<p>The food menu is straightforward. We started with the Brie toast, a  platter of crusty bread with slices of cheese drizzled with a sweet  glaze and a smattering of raisins from Chardonnay grapes. The burger of  the day was thick, juicy, and pleasantly charred, topped with  prosciutto, mozzarella cheese, and cherry tomatoes artfully arranged  between the brioche bun. The entree list includes stuffed shrimp wrapped  in bacon and a rack of lamb. The grilled wild salmon with a chipotle  glaze and cilantro salsa was more sweet than spicy.</p>
<p>The menu has plenty of grazing options, including individual pizzas  like The Gus with pepperoni, sausage, and ham, and a pear prosciutto  with honey and feta. There are sandwiches and a section of the menu  called “serious salads and soups.” Desserts are mostly Smith Island  cakes&mdash;including red velvet and chocolate peanut butter&mdash;with the option  of a scoop of vanilla ice cream. <br />The Bolters are opening a new  place, Dry 85, in October, a hangout for red-meat eaters and bourbon  drinkers, a few doors from the wine bar on Main Street. They also  operate a wine bar on wheels (find it at the Baltimore Book Fair in  September).</p>
<hr>
<p><strong>›› Red Red Wine Bar</strong>, <em>189B Main St., Annapolis, 410-990-1144</em>. <strong>Hours</strong>: 10 a.m.-12 a.m. Sun., 11 a.m.-12 a.m. Mon.-Wed., 11 a.m.-2 a.m. Thurs.-Sat. <strong>Appetizers</strong>: $8-13; <strong>entrees</strong>: $18-26; <strong>desserts</strong>: $8-9.</p>

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