With almost daily changes at the renovated Cross Street Market in Federal Hill, there’s a lot to keep track of. We caught up with master developer Arsh Mirmiran of Caves Valley Partners to give us the 411 on the revitalization project—which currently offers everything from coffee and candy to pizza and pho all under one roof—and the yet-to-open vendors slated debut by spring.

What’s the story behind the retro sign outside of Cross Street Market?
The current form of the market is in many ways a modern interpretation of the 1952 iteration of the facility. [The market was rebuilt after a 1951 fire.] The signs outside are a modern interpretation of the original neon signage that was part of the new market in the 1950s. They were designed by a local, but nationally renowned, firm called Younts Design owned by Ronnie Younts. The reintroduction of natural light to the formerly bunker-like market was through the removal of block that had been used to fill in the original windows.

Are there any fascinating facts about the history that you can share?
Anecdotally, the market building that burned down in 1951 had a basketball court on its second level and many South Baltimore residents and children played up there for fun.

Which current tenant has been around the longest?

Fenwick’s Choice Meats opened with the newly constructed Cross Street Market [after the fire] in 1952. Steve’s Lunch opened roughly a decade later, in 1964. We are excited to have their legacies preserved in the new Cross Street Market.

How do you account for the food hall trend across America?
Back in the day, people went and did their grocery shopping and got raw materials at the market, but with the advent of the grocery store that functionality went away. Cross Street had become like a bad mall food court, but the vendors were selling so little produce and seafood that the quality of what they put out wasn’t good anymore. With the increasing urbanization of cities and more people living downtown in dense areas, food halls have become more like gourmet grocers. It’s not a place to go do your grocery shopping, but it’s a perfectly good place to go and get everything you want for a dinner party.

What’s the difference between a food hall and a food court?
To some extent, it is subjective. There is a “you know one when you see one” aspect to it. We have pledged from day one that Cross Street would remain a market. While we lost a certain number of our true market vendors, we are going to have even more market offerings than the facility did before. With Fenwick’s Choice Meats remaining and able to increase its offerings and inventory due to increased traffic and returning customers, Annoula’s Kitchen offering fresh baked goods, Atlas creating what will surely be the single best seafood market in the Baltimore area with Atlas Fish Market, and the recent addition of Rooster & Hen, a true farm store, Cross Street Market will be a place which one can purchase any typical market offering.

How does the renovation of Cross Street fit into the scope of the other city markets being renovated?
The city and the Baltimore Public Markets Corporation (BPMC) have made the renovation and revitalization of the public markets system a priority. Some markets (including Lexington and Northeast) are being handled directly by BPMC, and some markets (Broadway, Cross Street, and Hollins) are being renovated through public-private partnerships. Interestingly, Baltimore has one of the best markets infrastructures I’ve seen in the country.

How do our markets compare to other cities?
Since working on Cross Street, I’ve visited cities with highly acclaimed markets—it’s become part of our travel plans in my family—and I’ve discovered that we have a more robust market system than many other cities. Baltimore has more neighborhood markets than any other cities I’ve been to. Many cities like Seattle and San Francisco have one market as opposed to a system of markets. We have a really great market system. We’ll have the one big anchor market with Lexington, but we’ll also have tentacles that reach into the neighborhoods to augment that market. Our markets weren’t just plopped here, they’ve always been here serving our city.

Why was it decided to allow Royal Farms a presence when no other chains are represented?
Quite simply, Royal Farms Chicken is an iconic local food product and it is a Baltimore City-based business with deep roots in the Baltimore community. The company’s willingness to adapt their concept to be a true market stall gave us great comfort that they’d be a successful and a welcome addition to the tenant mix.

What can patrons look forward to as the holiday season approaches?
We will be improving our holiday displays relative to recent years and working to make the market a special and festive place for local residents and tourists to visit. We hope to improve on these displays as the years go by and we hope that Federal Hill regains its spot as the most festive neighborhood in Baltimore during the holidays. We also intend to have a true grand opening celebration once we are at full capacity next spring, with the opening of the Atlas Restaurant Group concepts and the remaining stalls that are being leased.

Which vendors are still to come?
Three additional vendors (Sobeachy, Old Line, and Burger Bar) will be open in September. Rooster & Hen, our farm store anchor across from Ceremony Coffee, will open later this fall. The Atlas concepts are all planning to open next spring and are currently under design by BCT Architects and Patrick Sutton. We have two additional letters of intent signed and are actively seeking to round out the tenant roster for the two remaining stalls. Our goal is to be at 100 percent when Atlas opens next spring.

What’s the one item you must try if you’re stopping by the market?

This is a tricky question with so many great options, but I am going to say the not-yet-unveiled flavor of Taharka Bros. ice cream that is being developed to be sold exclusively at Cross Street Market. The ideas being thrown around so far are that it might be named “Cross Street” and be a cross between two or more iconic Baltimore flavors. You’ll have to stay tuned as the team from Taharka develops the flavor to be sold at The Sweet Shoppe, another one of our legacy vendors.

Noticeable changes have taken shape since Caves Valley Partners began its revitalization of the 173-year-old Cross Street Market in Federal Hill last year. Most recently, retro signage that harkens back to the market’s original rebuild—after a fire destroyed it in 1951—went up around the exterior.

While the neon logos are a reminder of its storied history, the renovated interior will bring the market into the present with a diverse lineup that reflects the breadth of Baltimore’s current dining landscape.

“As a team, it was important for us to keep it Baltimore-centric,” says Nick Alevrogiannis of Cana Development, which handles leasing for Cross Street Market. “We wanted authentic and artisan, and we’re seeing a pretty big swing of that growing here.”

By keeping an eye out for unique concepts at local pop-ups and farmers’ markets, the firm was able to bring on vendors that span multiple different cultures and cuisines, many of which are minority and female-owned and operated.

According to the Project for Public Spaces, a national nonprofit dedicated to helping communities sustain public properties, public markets are a great entryway for chefs and restaurateurs—especially minorities, immigrants, and women—to grow their businesses.

“A lot of small businesses want to be able to grow, but the capital required and the vetting process from landlords to get your own brick-and-mortar is typically really expensive, and the liability is huge,” Alevrogiannis says. “But with a market, capital requirement is significantly less to get in, which promotes small businesses from the beginning.”

When it reopens this spring, a number of veterans that operated in the market pre-construction (think Fenwick’s Choice Meats, Steve’s Lunch, and The Sweet Shoppe) will be joined by a new class of budding businesses. There will be Baltimore spinoffs including Burger Bar from the team at Southside Diner in Riverside, Annoula’s Kitchen from the owners of Sobo Cafe across the street, Cans Filling Station from the operator of Taps Filling Station at Mount Vernon Marketplace, and a new Ceremony Coffee location.

But diners will also be able to expand their knowledge of global cuisine with Hawaiian grinds from Ono Poké, Mexican eats from Taco Love Grill, Southeast Asian dishes from Rice Crook, Vietnamese fare from Phubs, and authentic Haitian cuisine from Sobeachy—a JFX farmers’ market favorite founded by husband-and-wife duo Chanel and Leo Fleurimond.

“It’s really important to have all of those different flavors,” Chanel says. “When people think of Caribbean food, they automatically think of Jamaican food. So for us, it’s great that we now have an opportunity to be there alongside every other diverse, ethnic option and bring a different Caribbean island to Baltimore.”

The owners are looking forward to introducing diners to their eclectic blend of African and French flavors, which is showcased in stewed meats, chicken wings, stuffed plantain cups, “Cod Yatti” sandwiches (deep-fried cod on a cocoa bread bun with mango sauce), and “Pati Kode,” a veggie or meat-filled turnover similar to a fried empanada. Sobeachy will also be able to serve its fresh juices and alcoholic Island drinks in its new stall.

Other new vendors are excited about the move, even if they’ve been around for a while. Take brothers Chuong and Paul Nguyen, who established their Vietnamese soup and sub shop Phubs in Hanover five years ago, but are enthusiastic about the benefits of joining a communal market.

“Vietnamese food in general is getting more popular, but it’s still not super mainstream,” says Chuong. “With the market being so diverse, it requires people to come in with an open mind. Those are the type of customers we want.”

Phubs will continue to offer its signature banh-mi sandwiches and pho with all the fixins, but the owners are adding a few new twists that cater to the market’s clientele. Specifically, the eatery will offer its bone broth in coffee-sized cups for diners in need of a hangover cure or quick energy boost.

“We simmer the bones for 24 hours because that’s how our parents did it growing up,” says Chuong, a Columbia native. “We ate pho weekly, and always felt great the next day. But it’s really all about the broth and making it the right way. We didn’t want to get away from that.”

In addition to providing that authenticity, vendors agree that the market environment fosters a more personal relationship between makers and customers. In the future, organizers hope to strengthen the community focus by activating the space with more startups (a new wave will join the scene summer 2019) and launching an outdoor farmers’ market in April.

“To me, what sets a market apart from a food court is that it’s interactive and engaged,” Alevrogiannis says. “You have to tell that story. Just having good food and good service isn’t working anymore.”