With summer in full force, and so many culinary treasures in the bay, there’s no time like the present to sing the praises of our blues (crabs, that is). Whether coddled into cakes, picked over paper, or transformed into savory salads, these sidestepping sweeties fill us with local pride in all their glorious incarnations. But much as crabs can lead to innumerable pleasures on the plate, there’s a lot to know about cooking, cleaning, and consuming them. Our Dummy’s Guide is a primer for rookies and a refresher course for those who already know a Jimmy from a Sook. (Hint: One has lovely lady lumps.) That being said, it’s time to educate. Silence in the classroom, kids. Let’s get crackin’.

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Can’t get enough crabs? Be sure to check out our 2014 Crab Buyer’s Guide and Home Plates.

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MALE VS. FEMALE

Much myth surrounds the taste differences between the sexes, but, truth be told, other than the fact that the ladies are lighter than the gents, experts say there’s no distinction in flavor.

Illustrations by Rebecca Bradley

A “Jimmy” or male crab has blue claws and an inverted t-shaped apron (or abdomen) as his distinguishing feature. Increased crabbing restrictions for the fairer species have kept the Jimmy in more constant rotation. Males have flakier meat

The sexually mature female crab or “Sook” (known to waterman as a “Sally” in its immature phase) is the best-groomed swimmer in the bay, with red tips on her talons and a trademark bell-shaped apron. Females tend to have denser meat. 

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LOCAL VS. GLOBAL

With slim pickins, due to overharvesting and extreme winters, purveyors have had to go global in sourcing their meat from Southeast Asia and South America, as well as Texas, Louisiana, and North Carolina. While all the crabs caught are the same species, the difference is the way in which the crustaceans are cooked. “The crabs from our waters are steam-cooked,” says Andy Hoffman, owner of Pikesville’s Gourmet Again. “Crab that is steamed-cooked doesn’t lose the mustard. Most of the crabmeat south of North Carolina and on the Gulf of Mexico gets boiled.” Crabmeat sourced from South America lacks the rich flavor that is particular to Maryland crabs. “Flavor is lost in boiling,” Hoffman says. And crabs from Southeast Asia get pasteurized and taste metallic, “like a tin can.” 

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CRAB VOCAB

Apron: The abdomen of a crab.

Callinectes sapidus: The Latin name for the blue crab. Translation: “beautiful savory swimmer.”

Crab pot:An enclosed framework of wire with four openings. When crabs enter to eat the bait, they are trapped; used for bay crabbing.

Molt: As invertebrates, crabs lack a spinal column. For the crab to grow larger, it molts, or sheds its shell periodically. A molting crab is said to be a “soft-shell.”

Mustard: Yellowy substance found inside a cooked crab. The mustard is an organ that helps the crab filter impurities in its blood.

Picking: The art of eating a steamed crab by teasing the meat out of those hard-to-reach appendages.

She-crab: An immature female crab, also known as a “Sally.”

Sponge: The orange eggs of a female crab that spread across the abdomen; the average sponge contains about two million eggs.

Trotline: A long fishing line to which bait is attached at a series of intervals. Commonly used in the Chesapeake Bay region.

WATER LOG: A DAY IN THE LIFE OF A CRABBER

If you think your desk job is hard, try the labor-intensive work of commercial crabbers, many of whom go on little sleep during the season (running roughly May through October). “People complain about the price of crab,” says lifelong crabber Bruce Shroyer, above, who sells supplies out of his Crabbing Barn in North East, MD, “but they have no idea what it takes to get the crab there in the first place.” To maximize fishing time, the professionals live by the clock, which starts ticking one hour before sunrise (the earliest time a licensed crabber can lay lines or place pots). Below is a typical day in the life of a waterman, though during soft-shell season, crabbers stay up around-the-clock to check their peeler pots.

2 a.m.: Stock boat with anchors, buoys, and 100 pounds of bait. Pre-bait 6,000 feet of trotline with bull lips, Razor clams, chicken necks, salted eel, and other crab munchies.

3:30 a.m.: Head to favorite spot on the Chesapeake and its tributaries.

4 a.m.: Lay trotlines (considered illegal for the bay) in the river where large populations of crabs can be found. Note to self: Crabs bite best during the first four hours of the morning when they are hungriest.

5 to 6 a.m.: Soak crab pots for bay crabbing. (Remember, 300 pots per day is the legal limit.) Let soak two to three days.

6 a.m. to noon: Check on previously placed pots and/or run trotlines. Haul catch with help of stainless-steel dipper. Sift, sorting by size and sex. Use tongs. Wear gloves. Watch fingers!

Noon: Crack open a can of baked beans for some quick refueling, but no sitting on the job.

12:10 to 3 p.m.: Hold bladder, if possible, and continue to catch as catch can. Rebait trotlines at end of day. Store in brine for tomorrow’s catch.

3 until ?: Sell 10-bushel haul to area bars and seafood purveyors. Tomorrow is another day. Keep on crabbing!

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Stillwater
Artisanal Ales

CELLAR DOOR

ABV: 6.60%

This full-bodied Saison/farmhouse ale was, unexpectedly, a really great pairing with the crabs. The sweeter, tangerine flavor was a nice complement to the Old Bay spices but there was also an earthy, malty flavor on the backend that cleansed our palate, readying us for our next bite of lump meat.

Millstone Cellars

HOPVINE

ABV: 8.0%

Though it isn’t the first beverage you think to pair with crabs, we wanted to give cider a try. Hopvine—with its flavors of lemon and York Imperial apple—was overwhelmingly tart compared to its opponents. While it didn’t have the ideal body for crabmeat, it paired nicely with our sides of watermelon and sweet corn.

Full Tilt Brewing

CAMDEN CREAM

ABV: 4.8%

This was an extremely mellow beer that hit all the notes very subtly—a bit of sweet corn flavor, a touch of bitterness, and the mild cream made for a very sessionable drink. The subtlety was a nice backdrop for the spicy seasoning and mustard, as well as the bold sweetness of the meat.

Flying Dog Brewery

DEAD RISE OLD BAY SUMMER ALE

ABV: 5.6%

We admit that this newly released beer had a slight advantage, as its made with the famous crabby McCormick spice. But every characteristic made Dead Rise an ideal pairing for steamed crabs, including its wheat malts and citrus hop notes. Of course, the kicker was the aftertaste of subtle Old Bay spice.

Union Craft Brewing

ANTHEM

ABV: 5.0%

This golden ale gave Dead Rise a run for its money with its creamy texture and floral hops, which almost completely counteracted the seasoning on the hard shells. The smooth texture of the beer was an ideal complement to the hearty lump meat, and its easy-drinking would be nice for an all-day crab feast.

Heavy Seas Beer

RIPTIDE

ABV: 7.25%

This white IPA is technically a spring seasonal, but we thought its wheat style and citrus nose would work nicely. However, its overwhelmingly sweet and floral taste—from orange peel and coriander—became too much of a distraction. Goes to show that, while the beer you choose is an important factor, the crab should always be the star of the show.

How we tested

Captain James Crab House provided a dozen hard shells and we added sides of watermelon and sweet corn on the cob. The beer was mostly bottled (Union’s can wasn’t available yet, so that was from a growler) and poured into unmarked pint glasses—though the Dead Rise Old Bay Summer Ale and Hopvine cider were pretty distinguishable from the start. We cracked and sipped for about an hour, until the mosquitoes got the best of us!

Crab season is here and nothing says summer in Charm City like these fun crab-themed items. They’re not just for feasts—you can impress your guests with these home goods any time. Mix in other accent pieces to give your space a makeover the Maryland way.

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Clockwise, from top: 

Bowl ($42) at Pamella & Rose.
Crab box ($17.50) at Simply Noted.
Ceramic trivet ($20/each) at The Store Ltd. 
Handmade painting by Kacey Stafford ($65) at Becket Hitch. 
Key chain ($28.50) at Becket Hitch. 
Picture frame ($56) at The Pleasure of Your Company.
Bottle opener ($34) at Pamella & Rose.
Green-striped crab pillow ($45) at Su Casa.
Chesapeake Bay towel ($20) at Curiosity.

Of course your guests are
mainly coming for the crabs, but that doesn’t mean they won’t appreciate the perfect summer cocktails, adorable place settings, and other essential tools for a stylish crab feast.

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Miniature Buoys: Buoy ($14/each) at Becket Hitch.
Beer Tray: Drink tray ($24.95) at Trohv.
Cocktail Recipe Book: Porch Parties cocktail recipe book ($16.95) at In Watermelon Sugar.
Wooden Dish: Wood scoop salt & pepper cellars ($9.95/set of two) at Williams-Sonoma.
Wipes: Crazy Beautiful wipes ($4.25) at Trohv.
Mallet: Olive wood mallet ($19.95) at Williams-Sonoma.
Sign: Chalkboard beverage dispenser tags ($19.95/for four) at Williams-Sonoma.
Napkins: Striped towels ($7/each) at Trohv.

While the harsh winter may have put a hurt on the crab harvesting this year, you can still enjoy an abundance of Maryland crabs when sporting an exclusive, handmade, 100-percent imported-silk Vineyard Vines for McCormick & Company custom tie. 

Crab and Old Bay tie ($75) at McCormick World of Flavors, 301 Light Street, 443-853-1355. 

Can’t get enough crabs? Be sure to check out our 2014 Crab Buyer’s Guide and Crab Basics.

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HOW TO STEAM CRABS AT HOME

Before bringing crabs home, you’ll need an ice chest to keep crabs cool, so they don’t drop their claws—an act of self defense known as “autotomy.”

WHAT YOU’LL NEED

4 cups water

5 (10-ounce) whole, live jumbo crabs

4 tablespoons Old Bay

2 teaspoons dry mustard

DIRECTIONS:

Fill a large pot with water. Place a steamer rack inside. Bring to a boil over medium heat. Using tongs, place three crabs on the rack in an even layer, with belly side down. Gently place remaining crabs on top. Sprinkle with two tablespoons of Old Bay. Steam for 25 to 30 minutes. (One way to know when they’re done is that yellowish, white fat should be steamed out.) Using tongs, remove crabs to a platter. Sprinkle with remaining Old Bay and dry mustard. Serves 1 to 2. Courtesy of Jimmy Fowler, assistant manager at Pappas.

“If you’re squeamish, you should probably have someone else steam them. Even I’ve never really gotten used to it.”—Pappas’s Jimmy Fowler

HERE’S THE RUB

Old Bay may be synonymous with Baltimore, but it’s just as easy to blend your own signature mix. Used on fish, shrimp, and other types of seafood, a rub acts as a marinade, enhancing the flavor of food as it cooks. Local chefs Opie Crooks of Shoo-Fly Diner and Jerry Pellegrino of Waterfront Kitchen weigh in with these simple-to-make rub recipes. For each rub, mix in a bowl, then store in a cool, dry place.

Opie Crooks’s Crab Spice Rub

• 4 ounces salt
• 1/4 ounce black pepper
• 1/4 ounce dehydrated onion powder
• 1/4 ounce dehydrated garlic powder
• 1/4 ounce dried lovage (fennel can be substituted)
• 1/4 ounce fresh bay leaves, finely ground
• 1/4 ounce fish-pepper powder
• Pinch of sugar

Jerry Pellegrino’s Rub

• Zest of two lemons
• ¼ cup dried basil leaves
• ¼ cup tomato powder
• 2 tablespoons Coleman’s dried mustard
• 1 teaspoon garlic powder
• 1 teaspoon onion powder
• 1 teaspoon fresh ground black pepper
• 1 teaspoon salt

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CRAB-CAKE CONTROVERSY

BROIL VS. FRY

We all know that preparation is the key to success, and the crab cake is no exception. To broil, or to fry: that is the question. Two local experts (and native Baltimore boys) weigh in on their preferred methods of cooking cakes.

Photography by Christopher Myers

Coastal cooking expert John Shields believes broiling is better. “If you really are using Maryland crab, it has a very distinctive flavor,” Shields says, “but if you’re using lots of Old Bay and frying, it can come from Mexico, Southeast Asia, or Maryland. You can’t tell the difference at that point—between the frying and seasoning, the crab gets lost.” Broiling creates a crust, while allowing the crab to shine. “If you’re spending the big bucks on Maryland crab,” says Shields, “a simple broiling process gives you a nice crispness outside and seals in the moisture nicely, while still giving you the full flavor of the crabmeat.”

The Food Market’s Chad Gauss is a fry guy. “A Baltimore-style crab cake should definitely be fried,” says Gauss. “It’s goes back to our roots as a working-class town.” In terms of texture, broiling, says Gauss, can’t compare to deep frying. “It’s hard to beat the texture of a fried crab cake—frying makes the outside crunchy and the inside creamy,” he claims, “and when it’s fried properly, it locks the heat in.” Think fried especially when eating out, says the chef. “Enjoy it,” says Gauss. “Don’t worry about the calories. The oil is better and your house won’t have to smell like a fryer.”

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PERFECT CRAB FEAST

Brown paper vs. newspaper

The professionals use heavy brown paper—it’s print-free, and easy to discard at feast’s end. If you’re carrying out, most joints will provide brown paper, but if you’re going the D-I-Y route, several layers of newspaper work just as well.

Mallets/Picks

Getting the jumbo lump is no problem. (Pull apron. Remove shell. Discard gills. Snap body. Hello, gorgeous!) Reaching tighter cavities, however, requires an array of tools: mallets to crack claws; knives and picks to scrape and extract minuscule, meaty morsels.

Beverages

Suds and spice are natural partners when it comes to slaking your thirst from steamed crabs. Temper the tongue with a plastic pitcher of iced-cold beer. (See p. 56 for some suggestions.) For a non-alcoholic choice, iced-tea or lemonade can also cool the palate.

Serving Options

A traditional Maryland-style crab feast entails serving the savory swimmers straight up on a paper-covered table or on paper or plastic platters. If you want a fancier feast, pile in a pail or present on a pretty, nautical-themed platter.

Clean Up for Guests

The fun of the feast is getting down and dirty. But when the party’s over, unless you want to smell like a spice girl (or boy), you may want to freshen up. While a liberal spray of a garden hose is really what’s required, paper towels and some wipes for the final finish will do.

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SOFT-SHELLS

Each spring, soft-shell crabs appear on Maryland menus as a seasonal specialty. The crabs, plucked from the water just after molting their outer shells, make for a delicacy necessitating neither the mallets nor the patience required when eating steamed crabs. Prepping soft-shells, however, is anything but dainty. (Cut behind the mouth and eyes with sharp shears, rip off face, remove gills and apron.) Though most fishmongers sell soft-shells already prepped, there’s an “ick” factor even with the cleanest of crabs. “I recommend easing someone into soft-shells with a sandwich,” says Ryn Dorsey, executive chef at Kali’s Court and Mezze. “They’re not seeing as much of the crab.”

Chef Ryn Dorsey’s
Semolina Pan-Fried Soft-shell Crab

You will need:

• 2 soft-shell crabs
• 1 cup buttermilk
• 1 cup semolina
• 1 tablespoon salt
• 1 tablespoon granulated garlic
• 1 tablespoon granulated onion
• 1 tablespoon dried oregano leaves
• 2 tablespoon freshly ground pepper
• Olive oil

Directions

• Dip soft-shells in buttermilk.
• In a small bowl, combine semolina,
• salt, garlic, onion, oregano, and pepper.
• Dredge crabs in semolina mix.
• In a pan, heat 1-inch of olive oil over medium heat. If it bubbles, the oil is ready. Carefully place encrusted soft-shell crabs in hot oil and fry for 2 to 3 minutes on each side.
• Serve with truffle aioli. (Recipe below.) Serves 2.

Truffle Aioli

You will need:

• 4 egg yolks
• Juice of one lemon
• Black-truffle paste
• 2 cups blended oil
• Salt and pepper to taste

Directions

• Place egg yolks in food processor,
• with lemon juice and 1 to 2 tablespoons
• of truffle paste, depending on taste.
• Slowly drizzle in canola or vegetable
• oil while blending. Add honey.

Grilled Soft-shell Crab
with Avocado Summer Salad

You will need:

• Lemon
• Extra-virgin olive oil
• Two soft-shell crabs
• Old Bay

Directions

• Preheat grill.
• Juice one lemon into a cup of olive oil.
• Dip crabs in olive oil and then dust with
• Old Bay to taste.
• Grill crabs for 3 to 5 minutes on each side.

Avocado and Tomato Summer Salad

You will need:

• 1 ripe avocado
• 2 ripe local tomatoes
• 1 bunch watercress or
• green of your choice
• 1 ear corn, grilled

Directions

• Slice avocados and tomatoes and
• layer on top of bed of watercress.
• Remove corn from cob and sprinkle
• on top. Place soft-shells on salad. Serves 2.

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SIDELINES

Illustrations by Rebecca Bradley

CORN ON THE COB

If you have to take sides, buttered corn on the cob is the one to choose. Dust with Old Bay, and it’s better still. Don’t want to make it yourself? Try it from Riptide by the Bay, 1718 Thames St., 410-732-3474.

PICKLED CUCUMBER SALAD

Crispy cukes, with notes of salt and sweet, add complementary crunch to the crabby patty. Pickled beets work well,
too. Don’t want to make it yourself? Try it from The Fresh Market, 2510 Quarry Lake Dr., 410-580-1930.

COLESLAW AND FRIES

Cool, snappy slaw and any kind of potato (roasted or mashed, but especially fried) are side staples. Don’t want to make it yourself? Try it from Bo Brooks, 2701 Lighthouse Point, 410-558-0202.

CARROT SALAD

Preferably flecked with cranberries, raisins, or even pineapple, this earthy sidekick salad doesn’t dominate but marries well with crusty crab. Don’t want to make it yourself? Try it from Graul’s Market, 12200 Tullamore Rd., Lutherville, 410-308-2100.

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CONDIMENTS

Go au naturel or say it with sauce (or citrus).

TARTAR SAUCE

A mayonnaise–based sauce, typically blended with pickles, capers, and lemon juice.

COCKTAIL SAUCE

Ketchup plus horseradish equals the classic crab-dipping condiment.

REMOULADE

A French version of tartar sauce that can contain anchovies and horseradish, among other ingredients.

SRIRACHA SAUCE

Some like it hot with this chili-based sauce.

LEMON WEDGES

Citrus adds a bright note to crab and can also be used to squeeze on fingers after you’ve consumed crab.

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DESSERT

Still have room after binging on a bushel? Crabs swim well with the following:

SMITH ISLAND CAKE

This culinary architectural wonder, with up to 15 layers of fudgy icing, accompanied watermen on the oyster harvest in 1800s Smith Island. Today, Maryland’s official state dessert is enjoyed by all.

OLD BAY CARAMEL ICE CREAM

As the name implies, this combination of caramel ice cream and Old Bay marries salty, spicy, and sweet. We get our fix at Hampden’s Charmery, but you can buy your favorite brand and blend your own.

CRABBY POPCORN

We love a good theme when we come up with one, so why not carry the crab motif to the final finish? This Crabby Caramel Popcorn—caramel kernels coated with Old Bay—is from Popsations Popcorn Company.

CRITTER COOKIES

Nothing says summer like a crab feast and Fido prancing around the picnic table. Make your own doggie treats or head to Dogma, Life with Your Pet, for these “iced” crabby cookies. (Red and blue crabs available.)

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WASTE NOT, WANT NOT

RECIPES FOR LEFTOVER CRABMEAT

Government House’s Maryland Crab Cakes

Ingredients

• 1-pound jumbo-lump crabmeat, well picked
• 1 egg, well beaten
• ½ cup mayonnaise
• 1 tablespoon lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
• ½ teaspoon powdered mustard
• 7 Saltine crackers, crushed
• 1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
• 1 tablespoon chopped parsley
• ½ teaspoon Old Bay seasoning

Directions

In a medium-sized bowl, mix together all ingredients except crab. Fold in crab. Press into six cakes and place on buttered sheet pan. Bake at 400 degrees for 10 to 15 minutes until golden. Yields six crab cakes. From executive chef Medford Canby.

Conrad’s Crab Balls

Ingredients

• 1-pound jumbo-lump, lump, or backfin (or a mix)
• 1 egg
• 1-2 tablespoons mayonnaise
• 2 slices of stale white bread
• ½ teaspoon salt
• ½ teaspoon white pepper
• 1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
• Seafood seasoning to taste

Directions

Preheat broiler. In a mixing bowl, gently fold all ingredients. Scoop a tablespoon of crabmeat onto a baking tray, and repeat until all meat is used. Broil for 4 to 5 minutes, being careful not to burn. Makes approximately 25 crab balls.

Wit and Wisdom’s Crab Louie Cups

Ingredients

• ½ cup red onion, minced
• ¼ cup cornichons, minced
• 1 whole egg plus 1 egg yolk per serving
• 3 ½ teaspoons lemon juice
• 1 teaspoon chopped parsley
• ¼ cup ketchup
• 2 tablespoons Sriracha
• ½ teaspoon salt
• 1 cup canola oil
• 4 cups leftover crabmeat (backfin and claw meat)
• 2 heads Bibb lettuce
• 2 avocados per serving

Directions

In a food processor, add red onion, cornichons, egg yolks, whole eggs, lemon juice, parsley, ketchup, Sriracha, and salt; process. While the food processor is still running, add oil in a slow and steady stream until dressing is fully emulsified. Pick through leftover crabmeat to ensure there are no shells. Mix the crabmeat with the dressing. Separate and wash Bibb lettuce leaves. Cut avocado into slices. Place dressed crabmeat into lettuce cups and garnish with slices of avocado. Serves 8.

Stone Mill Bakery’s Maryland Crab Soup

Ingredients

• 3 carrots, peeled and chopped
• 1 each: medium boiling potato, peeled and cubed, and yellow onion, peeled and chopped
• 1 stalk celery, trimmed and chopped
• ½ pound green beans, cut in 1-inch pieces
• 1 cup each: fresh corn kernels and fresh lima beans
• ½ cup fresh peas
• 1 ½ cups shredded cabbage
• 4 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
• 2 tablespoons Old Bay seasoning
• 1 bay leaf
• 1 tablespoon each: thyme and oregano
• Pinch of red pepper flakes
• 28 ounces whole, peeled tomatoes
• ½ cup sherry
• 1 pound crabmeat: use jumbo lump or picked meat from crab claws and back fin (12 to 16 crabs approximately, if picking)
• Salt and pepper to taste

Directions

Combine carrots, potatoes, onions, celery, green beans, corn, lima beans, peas, cabbage, Worcestershire sauce, Old Bay, bay leaf, thyme, oregano, red pepper flakes, and six cups water in a large pot. Add tomatoes, crushing with hand and juice from the can. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce heat to medium-low, simmering for 30 minutes. Add sherry and crabmeat to soup. Simmer 45 minutes, stirring often. Add salt and pepper to taste. Serves 4 to 8.

Below is but a small smattering of spots where we love to eat crabs—from your typical Maryland-style crabhouses (Jimmy Cantler’s Riverside Inn) to more upscale establishments with classic cakes (Linwoods). Don’t get steamed (pun intended) if your favorite joint isn’t listed on these pages. This is Maryland, hon. It’s hard to make it through a menu that doesn’t have some manifestation of crab. 

Can’t get enough crabs? Be sure to check out our Crab Basics and Home Plates.

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Steamed Crabs: Carry Out | Steamed Crabs: Eat In | Crab Cakes | Soft-Shells | Do-It-Yourself

STEAMED CRABS: Carry Out

When you want to eat in the comfort of your own home but don’t want to steam them yourself, head to one of these spots for ready-to-go steamed crabs.

CJ’S Crabhouse and Grill

10117 Reisterstown Rd., Owings Mills
410-363-6694

CJ’S is a no-frills neighborhood crabhouse where everyone knows your name. Owned by brothers Terry, Gary, and Jeffrey Sanders (whose parents, the late Charlie and Jean Sanders, started the business 38 years ago), this is the place to go if you want to spot a Raven (we’re told former coach Jim Caldwell ate here when he lived in town) or just experience a family-friendly vibe whether carrying out or eating in. (It’s only crab, folks!) While ordering a bushel to go, throw in a quart of Maryland crab soup, authentic New England clam chowder, or steamed shrimp with onions to quell your craving.

Conrad’s Crabs & Seafood Market

1720 E. Joppa Road, Parkville
410-882-1515

Quality crabs and a top-secret blend of spiced seasoning is the name of the game at Conrad’s, a favorite spot for take-out enthusiasts. (Gertrude’s chef John Shields shops here.) Owner and self-professed “baybilly” Tony Conrad, who has crab in his genes (his great-grandfather was a waterman and his great, great-grandmother owned an Eastern Shore seafood spot in the 1800s), spends most mornings aboard his beloved boat The Hannah Marie, in pursuit of the big boys. The proof is in the product: While most outfits sort their crabs only once, Conrad’s sorts twice, which means he sells the freshest, most colossal crabs in town.

The Crackpot Seafood Restaurant

8102 Loch Raven Blvd., Towson
410-828-1095

At The Crackpot, it’s all about superlatives—it has the longest bar in Baltimore, and sells a 20-ounce crab cake touted as the largest in town. The restaurant, which opened in 1972, was also one of the first in the Baltimore region to sell crabs year-round, importing them from Louisiana before doing so became a “thing.” Today, the Crackpot still uses the same spice mix, and still proudly sells fat, sweet Louisiana crabs for eating in or taking out from January through December.

Gibby’s Seafood & Gourmet Market

2322 York Road, Timonium
410-561-5225

Gibby’s has closed the restaurant that used to be connected with it, but sells all the same food, just for carrying out instead of eating in. Given the market’s incredibly brisk business—it sells between 200 and 300 bushels a day (depending on size, that’s between 1,000 and 2,400 crabs)—it’s amazing that there are any savory swimmers left in the Chesapeake. Gibby’s is a great one-stop shop for a crab feast, and unlike other outlets, it rarely seems to run out of crabs even when supplies are short. Buy the zesty Maryland crab soup as a starter, the tomato-cucumber salad with red onions as a side, and the creamy rice pudding for dessert.

Ocean Pride Seafood

1534 York Road, Lutherville-Timonium
410-321-7744

Brothers Rick and Randy Bielski worked at Ocean Pride when they were kids, churning the proprietary spice blend for the crabs in a cement mixer located in the restaurant’s basement. About 11 years ago, their childhood dreams came true when they purchased the carryout store and restaurant, expanding the bar and concentrating on crabs. The crab seasoning, no longer made in a cement mixer, still contains the same 26 ingredients, including rock salt, mustard seed, and black pepper, delivering just the right heat as a complementary counterpoint.

Pappas Seafood Co.

1801 Taylor Ave., Parkville
410-665-4000

An entire floor of the family-owned Pappas Seafood Co. is devoted to steaming crabs from our Atlantic waters (including the Chesapeake Bay and Wye and Chester rivers). The store has been at the same location since 1953, and still uses the special spice blend on its steamed crabs, but this seafood stalwart has also changed with the times—about six years ago, Pappas added a website and began selling crabs and crab cakes in all 50 states, plus Puerto Rico. Naturally, Maryland retirees—from Florida and California—form the strongest fan base.

JUMP TO: Steamed Crabs: Carry Out | Steamed Crabs: Eat In | Crab Cakes | Soft-Shells | Do-It-Yourself

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STEAMED CRABS: Eat In

When you don’t want to deal with a tsunami of shells, these crabhouses are happy to make your mess their business.

Canton Dockside

3301 Boston St.
410-276-8900

Whether you sit indoors or out, you’ll get the classic crab experience at Canton Dockside. All the elements are there: brown paper-lined tables, mallets, knives, and crabs the size of your forearm. (Some have been known to measure almost six inches.) The waterside restaurant, which also does a brisk carry-out business, sources its crabs from Louisiana and Texas year-round, and sells Maryland crabs when they’re available. We love the rock salt in the seasoning that lends a grainy texture and a sensory-inducing lip-tingle, best quenched by a cold brew.

Costas Inn

4100 Northpoint Blvd.
410-477-1975

The family-owned Costas Inn began as a small Sparrows Point tavern in 1971, and grew to a full restaurant, seating 200. Unlike many haunts that are first come, first served, diners are allowed to specify size and reserve their crabs when they make reservations. The crabs, all male, are always domestic, and from the Old Line State whenever possible. The spice blend, unchanged since 1971, is sold at the restaurant and through the online store, which can cater to all your crab needs with ready-made crab cakes (Today’s Kathie Lee Gifford and Hoda Kotb professed their love of these lumps on air), crabmeat, and T-shirts.

Jimmy Cantler’s Riverside Inn

458 Forest Beach Rd., Annapolis
410-757-1311

You gotta love a crab joint that’s easier to find by boat than by car. No matter how you get there, Cantler’s is worth the trek. The restaurant, with indoor and outdoor seating, has a full menu, but chances are you’ll choose to sit out on the wooden deck overlooking scenic Mill Creek, as you extract sweet crabmeat from a bright red pile of steamed sweeties. In summertime, you might even see the crabbers dropping off their haul. Yes, it’s touristy, but it’s also a Maryland-must experience.

L.P. Steamers

1100 E. Fort Ave.
410-576-9294

Housed in a Formstone corner building in Locust Point, L.P. Steamers has a no-fuss Baltimore charm that attracts locals and tourists alike. You can get them ready-to-go or settle at a table with brown paper, beer in a plastic cup, macaroni salad, disposable cutlery, and classic steamed crustaceans. Owner Bud Gardner, who opened the restaurant 17 years ago, serves number-one males (a number assigned to the heaviest Jimmies), and he does something different than other outlets—he sells them by weight, not by size, because, as it turns out, you can’t judge a crab by it’s hard-shell cover.

Mr. Bill’s Terrace Inn Crab House and Sports Bar

200 Eastern Blvd., Essex
410-687-5994

There’s nothing hoity toity about Mr. Bill’s Terrace and its cafeteria-like television-filled rooms. But the stupendous steamed-to-order crabs and friendly atmosphere have charmed some of the best-known taste buds in Charm City, earning testimonials from the likes of Dutch Ruppersberger, the late Art Donovan, and other Baltimore bigwigs. Yes, the lines can be long, but there’s comfort in knowing the famous have to wait, too. (Reservations are only for tables of 10 or more.) You’re sure to be famished once you finally get a table, so try the spicy Maryland crab soup and gooey crab dip while you’re waiting for the steam to work its magic on your main meal.

The Sue Island Grill & Crab House

900 Baltimore Yacht Club Rd., Essex
410-574-0009

The Sue Island Grill & Crab House, connected to the Sue Island Marina, boasts a sand beach with Adirondack chairs, a bustling tiki bar, live music, and fantastic sunset views over Sue Creek. Customers arrive by car, by boat, even by Jet Ski. The casual menu includes hamburgers, steamed shrimp, crab cakes and, of course, steamed crabs, from Maryland when possible and from the Carolinas or Louisiana in the off season. In summer, they’re served with Eastern Shore corn and fresh, meaty Maryland tomatoes for the quintessential hometown summer spread.

JUMP TO: Steamed Crabs: Carry Out | Steamed Crabs: Eat In | Crab Cakes | Soft-Shells | Do-It-Yourself

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CRAB CAKES

When you want crab, but aren’t interested in eating as a full-contact sport, crab cakes at one of these establishments are always an option.

Cunningham’s

1 Olympic Pl., Towson
410-339-7730

This spot has been open only since November, but it has already found a niche serving American favorites made with local ingredients and jolts of flavor. Given that everyone and their uncle has a new riff on the cake, Cunningham’s keeps it fairly classic with a broiled eight-ounce patty, served two to a plate, made with a dash of Old Bay, lemon zest, and Dijon mustard. Ever-changing seasonal sides (the tangy mustard seed mashed potato and steamed asparagus with shallots, served in spring were divine) float our boat.

Faidley Seafood

203 North Paca St.
410-727-4898

If we could only pick one place that sets the crab-cake gold standard, we’d choose Faidley Seafood stall in Lexington Market, open since 1886. Faidley’s owner Nancy Devine says her jumbo-lump crab cakes, sold since the 1980s, are seven ounces because “that’s the size of my hand.” And her hands are plenty full. Using jumbo-lump meat from the Atlantic (and Maryland meat whenever possible), and flash-frying them to yield a golden crust and creamy interior, on a busy day, working with a single helper, Devine makes and sells more than 1,000 cakes. Some have even shipped as far as Alaska and Hawaii. (And pre-9/11, even shipped to Europe frequently.)

G & M Restaurant and Lounge

804 Hammonds Ferry Rd., Linthicum Heights
410-636-1777

The jumbo lumps are what sets the eight-ounce crab cakes at G & M apart. A bit of spice, hardly any filler and 15 minutes in the oven, highlight the sweetness of the seafood. The restaurant got its start as a pizza shop in 1974, switching to seafood in the ’90s. Since then, the crab cakes, served in sandwiches and on platters and shipped nationwide, have been winning plaudits for their sublime simplicity.

Koco’s Pub

4301 Harford Rd.
410-426-3519

Tiny, family-run Koco’s Pub is famous for its enormous 11-ounce crab cake, made with jumbo and, well, ginormous lumps and served as an incredibly satisfying sandwich or on a platter with salty fries and slaw. With seating of just 60 in the dining room and about 50 in the bar, the lines get long, and for good reason. Don’t let the down-home, simple vibe deceive you—when the wait is over, your patience will be amply rewarded.

Linwoods

25 Crossroads Dr., Owings Mills
410-356-3030

The crab cakes at suburban stalwart Linwoods begin—and end—with fresh jumbo-lump meat. Yes, there’s a squeeze of lemon, a drizzle of Tabasco, a drop of Worcestershire sauce, and a smidge of Old Bay. But why mess with Mother Nature’s just-plucked-from-the-waters plump lumps? The only adornment comes in summer-evocative sides: soft corn pudding, spinach salad studded with radishes and heirloom tomatoes, and a mound of crisp potato shreds. With a plate of these (one as an appetizer, two as an entree), summer doesn’t get any better.

Thames Street Oyster House

1728 Thames St.
443-449-7726

The 10-ounce crab cakes at Thames Street are an old-school interpretation of the Eastern Shore crab cake. These beauties start with blue crabs pulled from the Atlantic waters. While many cake creators tout the size of their lumps, these are made with all the fine flesh the crab has to offer—lump meat, of course, but the claw and backfin as well. Spices and filler are kept to a minimum. The cakes are pan-fried and then served in a cast-iron pan, with scrumptious seasonal sides such as roasted cauliflower and lima beans baked with brown sugar.

JUMP TO: Steamed Crabs: Carry Out | Steamed Crabs: Eat In | Crab Cakes | Soft-Shells | Do-It-Yourself

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SOFT-SHELL CRABS

Captain James Landing

2127 Boston St.
410-327-8600

The key to the tasty soft-shell crabs at Captain James is their 24-hour bath in buttermilk and Old Bay to tenderize and add flavor. The crabs, generally available in late spring, are then dipped in seasoned flour, pan-fried, and served with a white wine and chicken-stock pan sauce. Crabs come from as far away as South Carolina and as near as the waters you can see when you’re served.

Cinghiale

822 Lancaster St.
410-547-8282

There’s no way that Cinghiale, a Cindy Wolf-Tony Foreman restaurant, is going to take the traditional pan-fry and slap-on-a-bun approach to soft-shells. For an original interpretation, the enoteca offers seasonal variations, but one we’re fond of is a peppery salad with red watercress, pickled ramps, and spicy vinaigrette, topped with a deep-fried soft-shell crab. Chef Julian Marucci uses East Coast crabs, and favors the smaller ones, which are sweeter, softer, and fry up with crisper crust.

Miss Shirley’s Café

750 E. Pratt St.
410-528-5373

Leave it to Miss Shirley’s Café to deliver original takes on soft-shell crabs. The Grumpy Shirley-Feller is a Maryland soft-shell in cornmeal crust, surrounded by grits, onion jam, bacon, a pickled relish, and a special chicken-sausage gravy. The Surfin’ the Bay Club places the same crisp-coated crab on sourdough toast as part of a sandwich that’s stuffed with blackened shrimp salad, jalapeño-smoked bacon, avocado, tomato, and an Old Bay remoulade.

The Oceanaire Seafood Room

801 Aliceanna St.
443-872-0000

On the ever-changing seasonal menu at The Oceanaire, executive chef Joe Pastore likes to get creative with crabs. Though he hails from Pittsburgh, this chef is a quick study in soft-shells. In this swanky seafood house with white-coated waiters, you’ll find a deconstructed BLT—blue crab, lettuce, and heirloom tomatoes tossed in bacon vinaigrette—geared to the more adventurous on one visit, a tempura treatment on another, or possibly a more traditional version on yet another pass. To sum up: Two claws up.

The Oregon Grille

1201 Shawan Rd., Cockeysville
410-771-0505

If you’re craving crabs and white-tablecloth service, The Oregon Grille is always a great choice for superior service, horse-country ambiance, and an extensive wine list to wash it all down. (FYI, chardonnay cuts the richness of crab.) This dish—dusted in cornmeal, sauteed, and served over spaghetti squash swimming in beurre blanc and whole-grain mustard-seed sauce—is a winning combination of flavors.

Ouzo Bay

1000 Lancaster St.
443-708-5818

The soft-shell crabs served at the Greek restaurant Ouzo Bay start with crabs dusted in seasoned flour and pan-fried. Platters include two crabs, along with mustard aioli and two sides. It’s all about letting simple ingredients shine, and delivering a modern twist on an ancient cuisine. (On a recent visit, we couldn’t resist posting these tasty “bay-bies” on Facebook.)

JUMP TO: Steamed Crabs: Carry Out | Steamed Crabs: Eat In | Crab Cakes | Soft-Shells | Do-It-Yourself

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DO-IT-YOURSELF

As long as they’re fresh (and local), you don’t need to be a graduate of the CIA to cook crab. Here are some great places for the key ingredient to your home-cooked meal.

LIVE CRABS

Gibby’s Seafood and Gourmet Market
2322 York Rd., Timonium 
410-561-5225

J.M. Clayton Company
108 Commerce St., Cambridge 
410-228-1661

Mo’s Seafood
219 S. President St. 
410-837-8600

Ocean Pride
1534 York Rd., Lutherville-Timonium 
410-321-7744

Parkville Crabs
7800 Harford Rd., Parkville 
410-668-0020

CRABMEAT

Bill’s Seafood & Catering
9016 Belair Rd., Nottingham
410-256-9520

Gourmet Again
3713 Old Court Rd., Pikesville
410-484-9393

Faidley Seafood
203 N. Paca St.,
410-727-4898

S. DiPaula & Sons Seafood
7613 Philadelphia Rd., Rosedale
410-866-8100

Eddie’s of Roland Park
5113 Roland Ave.
410-323-3656

SOFT-SHELLS

Captain Jim’s Crabs
818 Bowley’s Quarters Rd., Middle River
410-335-2221

Crab Depot
5717 Gov. Ritchie Highway, Brooklyn Park
410-789-6722

Gibby’s Seafood and Gourmet Market
2322 York Rd., Timonium
410-561-5225

Sea King Seafood Markets
3417 Plum Tree Dr., Ellicott City
410-465-9663

Waterman’s Pride
7692 Belair Rd.
410-665-5555