OPEN

Taharka Bros. Ice Cream: Tonight, the team from this homegrown sweet shop will celebrate the grand opening of their new R. House location with a lineup of guest scoopers—including 92Q radio personality Pork Chop, rapper and “Secretary of Shade” commentator DDm, and our own New York Times best-selling author D. Watkins. Taharka, which also operates a stall at Broadway Market in Fells Point, will take over the Remington food hall space that formerly housed Little Baby’s Ice Cream, which closed all of its shops last month. “We could not be more excited about this new location, especially given that we make the ice cream at our factory in Hampden so close by,” founder Sean Smeeton said in a statement. “R. House offers a unique venue and a chance for us to host events that help promote a positive image for Baltimore.”

Though Taharka has become known for its scrumptious scoops (Honey Graham, Key Lime Pie, and Coffee Oreo are among its standout flavors), the local business is equally celebrated for its socially conscious philosophy. Since rolling out its hot pink “Change Maker Mobile” in 2015, Taharka has used its ice cream as a vehicle for change—employing Baltimore City youth, hosting events to raise awareness for social justice issues, and creating innovative flavors that pay homage to community leaders.

Sizka: The old firehouse at the intersection of O’Donnell Street and South Linwood Avenue in Canton has a whole new look. The property that was most recently Firehouse Coffee Co. has transformed into this new Japanese fusion restaurant. Now in soft-opening mode, the refreshed space features a black-and-white aesthetic, wooden floors, and a long sushi bar. The menu—from team behind Niwana Restaurant in Charles Village—offers tons of colorful sushi rolls, omakase (chef’s choice) meals, and entrees including salmon teriyaki and barbecue-marinated short ribs.

NEWS

Acropolis Restaurant: Dinner service on Christmas Eve will be the last to savor the stuffed grape leaves, whole branzino, and lamb souvlaki platters at this 33-year-old Greektown staple. Owner George Avgerinos—who inherited the business from his father, the late Dimitrios “Jimmy” Avgerinos—announced last week that the family had sold the restaurant and would be closing for good after the holiday. “This type of business becomes your life,” he wrote in a message posted to Facebook. “And Acropolis and all of you have been such a huge part of ours. We take this step, not to lose a legacy, but to continue it with our loved ones and families.” In keeping with that sentiment, Averinos added that the family is continuing its catering services and he hinted at a possible new location in the future. (Read more about the family business in our upcoming February issue.)

EPICUREAN EVENTS

12/19: Christmas in Mexico
Don’t be surprised if you see a line snaked around the block at The Charmery’s flagship location in Hampden tonight. Master creamer David Alima has once again collaborated with his pal Carlos Raba of Clavel to serve festive fried ice cream to the masses. This year’s treat, “Adornos Navideños,” will top fried scoops of The Charmery’s Pure Vanilla flavor with raspberry sauce and a leche drizzle to resemble an edible ornament. A portion of all the evening’s proceeds will be donated to Guardian Baltimore—Raba’s yet-to-open jiu-jitsu youth center in Remington.

12/23: Navidad en Baltimore
In yet another holiday-themed collaboration, the teams from Fells Point favorites Ekiben and Cocina Luchadoras are coming together to host this epic pop-up next week. Swing by Ekiben on your lunch break to start the holiday feast early with Chinese red-braised short rib tamales, soups, and other Chinese-Mexican fusion fare—which, judging by previous collabs, we can only expect will sell out quickly.

The two things I looked forward to most when my husband and I successfully co-mingled our gene pools were the kid and the food cravings. (If our son reads this one day, it will be good that I listed him first.) There’s a scene in Parks and Recreations where Ann lists a “huge trash bag full of mashed potatoes” among her cravings—and that’s what I wanted. Maybe not garbage potatoes, but I wanted my stomach to teach my brain cool new ways to articulate hunger. And yet, with 10 weeks left in this pregnancy, my only constant craving has been for peas.

In the late spring, when my pea obsession kicked into gear, I thought maybe my baby was some kind of food puritan, sent to force me to eat seasonally from the inside out. Peas were everywhere, and so I put them in everything. I ate them by the bowlful, once going through two pounds of the three-pound sack I purchased at the farmers’ market in less than a week. I learned how to make ricotta so that I could pair my delicious peas with fresh ricotta over pasta and even typing that, at 9:19 a.m., is making me want to weep because dinnertime is so far away from now.

I realize, fully, that saying peas are my greatest craving is obnoxious. They’re peas. I get it. Everybody loves a good crazy pregnant lady food story, and I’ve seen too many faces fall when I share mine. This pea rave isn’t meant to make me seem like a demure Victorian lady who denies human urges. I am always, always hungry. Making a person is a lot of work, and so I eat almost constantly. But I’m still holding out hope that some brilliantly vile food combination will sing its siren song from my pantry, but for now, here are the normal things I’ve been eating around town.

JFX Farmers’ Market and Bazaar
Everyone’s farmers’ market route is intensely personal. We all have very different food goals and methods to maneuver/cope with big crowds and long lines. I’m fortunate that in our almost decade-long relationship, my husband has mostly conformed to my psychotic market behavior. We get in, get coffee and a snack, do a counter-clockwise loop with minimal fraternizing, and we get out. Acceptable stops include: Farm to Face Falafel, where crunchy beets, cucumbers, and greens hold hands with hot falafel in a shallow sea of honey and Sriracha. The wrap presentation allows for face-stuffing on the go. McCarthy’s Farm is, I believe, where we fill up our pea sack, but honestly I’ve never looked up other than to politely smile at the pea-handler because I’m so focused on the end goal. Locust Point Greenhouse is where we stop for fresh flowers and plants (not technically a food, but I can’t have booze so we now have a constant rotation of floral arrangements). We’ll hit Reid’s Orchard on the way out for berries, and if we have any cash left and finished our falafel too quickly, we’ll pop by Blacksauce Kitchen for second breakfast.

Belvedere Square
One of my favorite things about pregnancy is the smugness I feel when I bounce out of bed early on a Saturday while knowing all of my friends are still fitfully sleeping off their hangovers. (This smugness is a façade built around myself to feel better about not also being hungover.) I very much enjoy being an early bird at Belvedere Square to split a humongous Plantbar juice with my groggy husband, supplemented with bagels from Greg’s, and coffee from Atwaters.

Taharka Brothers Ice Cream
If forced to make a decision, I’ve always been a person who would take a vat of hot, salty, vinegar-soaked fries over dessert of any kind. But now that I’m pregnant, I’ll take the fries and some ice cream, please. Specifically, I’d like a pint of Salted Caramel from Taharka, which is sold at the grocery store three blocks from my house, because sometimes things just work out that way.

Minato
I am fully aware that eating raw fish while pregnant is frowned upon. But pregnancy makes your brain want many things all at once, and sushi spots are the best for getting lots of little bits of things. Minato’s bento box special on Sunday nights has made me very, very happy. I split some edamame and spring rolls with my dinner date and then go to town on a platter of shrimp tempura rolls, sesame chicken, rice, and whatever else I can get them to throw into the mix. Also, if other restaurants could get into the game of selling food by the bite, that would be great.

The 800 block of The Avenue in Hampden
Going with the theme of sating the many palates I experience all at once, the 800 block of The Avenue has something for all of me. The chicken kabop wrap and tikki chat from The Verandah are so perfectly seasoned and toe the glorious line between feeling gluttonous, but also not being entirely bad for you. The Ma Petite Shoe Café offers delicious decaf drinks and a variety of crepes (the recent “Chicken Dinner” crepe special had stuffing in it. Stuffing. In August. What a world.) And, obviously, The Charmery makes the list because I’m not a fool.

Matthew’s Pizza
We used to reserve Matthew’s for super special hangovers—the kind that settle in deep and really latch on, oblivious to the Gatorades you’ve chugged. But now it’s reserved for just being hungry for pizza. Though dining in is lovely, I recommend grabbing a three-cheese with pepperoni to go, and using the car ride home to really let the aroma permeate while you sip on a Limonata San Pelligrino, like you’re on holiday in Italy. Then bring it back to America once you’re back on your sofa with a Netflix nosedive.

Friends and Farms
Friends and Farms is like having your cool, health-conscious parents do your weekly grocery shopping. They aggregate food from the region (small carbon footprint!) and source from ethical farms (feel good about your food!) and put it all together in insulated reusable bags (take that, landfills!). Every food group is represented, down to yogurt, milk, and bread, making light of any subsequent grocery store runs. Food pick-ups are once a week, and the friendliest people in the world dole out your bounty. Friends and Farms has been a wonderful resource for us this summer. Pregnancy brain is very real, and having someone curate a healthy mix of the food pyramid means we’ve eaten delicious, balanced meals, and not boxed Velveeta mac and cheese every night.

The Charmery

801 W. 36th St, 410-814-0493.

“I
think of things I like and turn them into ice cream,” says co-owner
David Alima, referring to the store’s variety of flavors. Look for
winter concoctions like Champagne and strawberry for Valentine’s Day and
snowmaggedon with snowcap candies—whether or not the weather warrants
it.

Editor’s pick: Spro coffee, made in collaboration with the Hampden coffee shop down the street.

Maggie Moo’s

Several locations including 821 S. Broadway, 410-342-8399.

It’s
hard to resist endlessly combining the shop’s 56 flavors (like banana
rum and chocolate Swiss) and 31 mix-ins (including chocolate-covered
pretzels and coconut). Other whimsical cold desserts include
ice-cream-filled cupcakes and an ice-cream pizza.

Editor’s pick: Strawberry Skateboard—strawberry ice cream with rainbow sprinkles and gummy bears.

Pitango Gelato

Several locations including 802 S. Broadway, 410-236-0741.

When
Noah Dan moved to the U.S., he missed the gelato of his youth in Italy.
He eventually sold his software company and satisfied his longing by
opening Pitango in 2006. The creamy, milk-based treat is made on an
organic dairy farm in Pennsylvania, each kind built from scratch without
chemicals or flavor concentrates.

Editor’s pick: The sweet-and-savory black sesame.

Prigel Family Creamery

4852 Long Green Rd., Glen Arm, 410- 510-7488.

The
on-site shop, adjacent to the creamery operations and the family’s
dairy farm, sells ice cream as well as milk, meat, and yogurt. The
slow-churned ice cream includes flavors like Bobby’s black mud
(chocolate with cappuccino chips) and apple strudel. Order it scooped
into a cone, in a sundae with syrup, or packed into a container to take
home.

Editor’s pick: Caramel pretzel.

Taharka Bros

Available at local stores and restaurants.

Taharka’s
small factory in Clipper Mill cranks out inventive flavors like “A
Dream Preferred” (toasted-coconut ice cream with rum swirl and chocolate
Pop Rocks), named after a Langston Hughes poem, and “Pryor Knowledge”
with Nutella, nutmeg, nuts, and Nutter Butter cookies. Look for an
ice-cream truck in the spring.

Editor’s pick: Vanilla, made with ingredients grown on a small farm in Haiti.

Calories in the Cone

Sugar Cone: 40 calories in a single cone

Cake Cone: 17 calories in a single cone