Greatness, it is said, often skips a generation. When The Elephant opened in 2016 in the Mount Vernon mansion that once housed the legendary Brass Elephant, we hoped it would be a worthy successor.

It was not. In her review of the restaurant, Baltimore food and dining editor Jane Marion lamented that “the food is almost secondary to the space,” and “many of the menu items we sampled needed some sort of tweaking.” The Elephant closed in 2019, leaving the future of this hallowed restaurant ground in doubt.

Into that void stepped The Manor, a restaurant and “ultra-lounge” that has brought a new personality to the location and revived the spot’s status as destination dining. Co-owners Robert Gay and Josh Persing have created a beautiful oasis that maintains the location’s elegance and character while infusing a dash of liveliness into the old building, which once housed a furniture store.

A traditional chandelier still hangs over the foyer, and purple lights illuminate the bottles behind both the small bar downstairs and a larger marble one upstairs. A rainbow of colors gracing the walls, bar stools, rugs, and artwork makes the place feel fresh and fun.

In addition to the bars and dining rooms, there are spots for lounging and listening to DJs who perform on weekend nights and watching drag shows during brunch on Saturdays and Sundays. They’re wildly popular, so if you want to go it’s best to buy tickets online ahead of time.

Despite its striking setting, at The Manor, the food is most definitely not secondary to the space. We found the menu to be inventive and well-executed during our two visits this winter.

Club music plays throughout the building, but it isn’t so loud as to preclude conversation. We started each visit with a round of cocktails that were expertly made by a friendly and talented bartender who goes simply by “J.” The cleverly named Moira’s Rose (a nod to Catherine O’Hara’s sassy character on the television show Schitt’s Creek, we assume) is made with vodka, Earl Grey tea, hibiscus syrup, and a squeeze of lemon. It was just the right level of sweetness, as was the Solstice, a solid combination of gin, prosecco, and cranberry juice garnished with rosemary. The Oaxaca Old-Fashioned is made with mezcal, rather than the traditional bourbon, and its smokiness shines through. It would make for a pleasing after-dinner drink as well.

Appetizers tend toward the heavier side, with smoked mac and cheese, wings, crab dip, and sweet potato tots leading the way. The best among them was the burrata, which was perfectly creamy on the inside and served with a marinated sun-dried tomato compote and basil pesto.

We also absolutely loved the crostini, which were salted and not over-toasted, a common problem we encounter at restaurants around town. The pear and blue cheese salad was terrific—the fruit was ripe, and the blue cheese was plentiful. Oysters on the half shell and charcuterie and cheese plates are available as well.

All the entrees we enjoyed had one thing in common: Each ingredient on the plate made its presence known. The exterior of the lemon pistachio chicken was crispy, the inside nice and juicy. It was served with butternut purée, charred Brussels sprouts, and smoked cranberry bordelaise. In a world of bland chicken dishes, this one stands out.

The togarashi-spiced seared tuna is a star. It’s tempting to eat the beautiful slices of fish on their own, but take our word for it and try a mouthful with the kimchi slaw and stir-fried mushrooms.

Everything here is great individually, but the dish works best when all the components are eaten together. The pumpkin ravioli, stuffed with mascarpone, was also excellent. There’s a nice subtlety to the brown sage butter sauce, and the pumpkin ricotta is exceptional.

We didn’t get a chance to try the burger or crab cakes, but we did sample two of the four pizzas on the menu. The wild mushroom and basil pizza featured some of the tastiest toppings we’ve had (it also comes with basil pesto ricotta, pepperoncini, arugula, and a spicy honey drizzle) and a fresh, doughy crust. The duck and fig pie, though a tad too sweet for our taste, also was nicely executed.

With excellent service, a welcoming atmosphere, and consistently stellar food, The Manor is channeling the spirit of the Brass Elephant while creating its own history. Whether it will prove to be great years from now is an open question, but it’s off to a very promising start.

OPEN

Baby’s on Fire: The husband-and-wife owners behind Mt. Vernon’s record store cafe have taken their love of vinyl to a whole other level. After months of planning, David and Shirlé Koslowski—along with their partner, Michael Bowen, the former co-owner of the Ottobar—have opened a second location inside The Sound Garden in Fells Point. “We’re beyond ecstatic to be joining the Fells Point community and to bring them the love we’ve already been giving to Mt. Vernon,” David says. “Coffee shops and bars are all about community, and now with the opening of the Fells Point location, we have a space for that during the day and night.” Housed in the store’s old vinyl room, the cafe offers Stumptown Coffee and espresso drinks throughout the day, and craft beer and wine in the evening. After flipping through the bins, head into the cafe to read the liner notes over a pastry, sandwich, wrap, or hearty bowl of soup.

COMING SOON

The Manor: Robert Gay and Joshua Persing—the duo who previously operated G.A.Y. Lounge in the Mt. Vernon building that is now The Civil—are breathing new life into yet another one of the neighborhood’s historic spaces. In the coming months, they will transform the mansion that previously housed The Elephant, which closed for good amid drawn-out financial issues last spring, into a new dining-and-entertainment concept called The Manor. Alongside a selection of worldly cuisine, the spot will highlight EDM and house music, weekend entertainment, and routine drag brunches.

NEWS

Sally O’s: Two weeks ago, Highlandtown locals were saddened by the news that owner Shannon Cassidy would be closing beloved neighborhood hangout The Laughing Pint after 13 years. In her announcement, Cassidy assured patrons that she would be leaving the bar in “wonderful hands.” This week, it was announced that those hands belong to industry veteran Jesse Sandlin—a Top Chef alum who most recently has been heading up the kitchen at The Outpost American Tavern in Riverside. Sandlin is currently renovating the bar and hopes to reopen it as Sally O’s in February. “It’s been a dream of mine for a very long time to own my own place,” she said in a post to Facebook. “I’m happy that I’m able to do so in my home neighborhood.” Stay tuned for updates.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

11/21: Beaujolais Day at Chez Hugo

Head to Chez Hugo Bistro to celebrate Beaujolais Day—the third Thursday in November tradition that debuts a special red wine made with grapes from the Beaujolais region of France—with French-born chef Steve Monnier. Throughout the evening, diners will enjoy complimentary glasses of the early vintage release of Pierre-Marie Chermette Domaine du Vissoux’s Beaujolais Nouveau. Plus, other selections from the fifth-generation grower will be served, and there will also be bottles for sale for guests who wish to add to their own cellars at home.

11/24: Vegan Thanksgiving Pop-Up
Join vegan vlogger Antonio Simpson, more fondly known as The Vegan Mechanic, at this Thanksgiving pop-up that will be 100-percent vegan friendly. Head to The Greener Kitchen in Pigtown for meatless spins on classic smoked ham, deep-fried turkey, and baked macaroni and cheese. The $20 feast also includes Old Bay cajun green beans, garlic mashed potatoes, and fried Caribbean cabbage.

SHUT

Il Palio: This pizza-and-pasta spot inside the Foundry Row development in Owings Mills has closed its doors for good. A sign posted to the front door last week indicated that the restaurant’s final night of service was Thursday, November 14. “To the loyal customers we have proudly served, we thank you for your patronage, but regret to inform you that we are closing Il Palio,” wrote Kevin Gudejko, director of operations for restaurant group Mainstreet Ventures. Since opening in June 2018, the dining destination became known for its rustic Italian fare including Neapolitan pizzas, bountiful chopped salads, and tableside fettuccini alfredo tossed in wheel of imported parmigiano reggiano.