COMING SOON

Tire Shop Pop-Ups at Parts & Labor: We’ve been keeping tabs on this former car-and tire-repair-shop-turned-Remington restaurant since Parts & Labor served its last cuts of meat in the space last summer. A new pop-up series is preparing to reactivate the space with public food events featuring local purveyors. The first of many such events is scheduled for August 10 from 12-5 p.m., when the barbecue buffs with Bark BBQ will serve up their Texas-style smoked meats with signature sides like pickled cucumbers and corn on the cob. Joining them for the inaugural celebration will be Locust Point’s Diamondback Brewing and R. House’s R. Bar. Hopefully we’ll see a more permanent revival soon, but, for now, it will be nice to see (and smell) meats being smoked in the space again.

Koba BBQ: It’s been quite some time since we’ve seen a restaurant operate inside the standalone building at Belvedere Square—which has become notorious for its turnaround rate throughout the years. North Baltimore locals might remember as far back as 2004, when it operated as Taste. Concepts that followed included Crush, Demi, Spike Gjerde’s Shoo-Fly, and, most recently, Starlite Diner. Now, the space is straying from its previous life as a cocktail bar and diner with an entirely new on-trend theme. Koba BBQ, a locally owned Korean barbecue concept is slated to open in the space by the end of this year. The spot adds to the development’s diverse lineup of food offerings, which include Ejji Ramen, Atwater’s, Grand Cru, and Neopol Smokery.

Brazil Gourmet Marketplace, Cafe, and Coffee Bar: Baltimore’s Brazilian food offerings will expand in the coming weeks with the arrival of this multi-use concept on Eastern Avenue. The Fells Point shop will be home to a market featuring authentic Brazilian grocery items like coffee, yucca and tapioca flours, smoked and dried meats, and mango and guava fruit juices. After stocking up on the comestibles, patrons are invited to stay for a meal in the cafe, which will highlight delicacies like classic empanadas, açai bowls, cachaça-infused caipirinha cocktails, and Pão de Queijo (Brazilian cheese bread).

EPICUREAN EVENTS

TO 8/11: Baltimore Restaurant Week
The city’s annual dining-out promotion is officially in full swing with an array of participating places to choose from. Treat yourself to two-course lunch and brunch menus ranging from $12-20, or a three-course dinner for $20-35. Newbies including Blackwall Hitch, Noona’s, The Tilted Row, and Orto are all participating for the first time this year if you’re hoping to try something new. But it’s also a great opportunity to revisit old standbys like Tio Pepe’s or Annabel Lee Tavern. (You can find our globally inspired suggestions here.)

8/3: Vegan SoulFest

This plant-based party returns to Clifton Park for its sixth year with a jam-packed lineup of speakers, cooking demonstrations, live DJ entertainment, shopping, and, of course, plenty of vegan eats to go around. Local vendors to look out for include L’Eau de Vie Organic Brasserie, The Greener Kitchen, Refocused, and The Land of Kush—whose co-owner Naijha Wright-Brown organizes the event each year.

SHUT

TigerStyle: Earlier this week, diners devoured the last of the steamed buns and stir-frys at Chad Gauss’ wok-inspired outpost in Hampden. The chef and Food Market owner recently confirmed to us that the restaurant has closed for good. Gauss says the closing is not for lack of business. The space was simply sold to another buyer who expressed interest in taking over the former commissary kitchen. “It was a fun place and exactly what we wanted it to be,” he tells us. “We have a few bigger projects coming our way, and it just made sense to let this one go since we had someone that was interested in the location.” There’s no word yet on who, exactly, will be taking over the carryout—which Gauss opened only six months ago and named after the lyrics of a popular Wu Tang Clan song.

[Editor’s Note: Since publication, it was brought to our attention that people found some of the language used in this review offensive. Baltimore regrets the lack of attention paid to our words and we explored the issues surrounding authenticity and appropriation in Asian food culture on a recent episode of our podcast.]

There’s a lot happening inside TigerStyle, the small Asian comfort food joint from the mind of Chad Gauss, chef and co-owner of the renowned Hampden restaurant The Food Market. Flames sporadically shoot toward the ceiling in the open kitchen as cooks flip sizzling vegetables in woks. Hip-hop music blares. Toilet paper, toothpaste, and candy line a shelf near the entrance, available for sale as a convenience to customers, while also adding a surprisingly artistic element.

Gauss and his partners—The Food Market’s executive chef Nick Pasco, former Food Market general manager Patrick Rainey, and La Food Marketa’s executive chef Johntay Bedingfield—had modest goals when they opened in an alley behind West 36th Street, a fortune cookie’s throw from the flagship restaurant. “We just want to have fun, please people, and not take it too seriously,” he told Baltimore before it opened in February.

He has succeeded. True to its name, TigerStyle oozes flair. Posters of artists such as Wu Tang Clan, whose song inspired the name, and classic movies like Back to the Future and Goodfellas line the walls of the tiny eating space, which has just one communal metal table with stools. Although many of the appetizers may look familiar to Americanized Chinese-food devotees, TigerStyle’s takes are unique.

The pork in its egg roll is ground with mushroom and cabbage. One is filling enough to constitute a mini meal on its own. Wonton soup bears no resemblance to the overly salty swill that’s far too common; its broth is clean and enhanced by plentiful spinach, mushrooms, and shrimp.

In contrast to the vegetable gyoza, shrimp toast, and Korean fried chicken wings, all of which we felt the kitchen fried the flavor right out of, the tempura cauliflower was subtly prepared with cashews, Thai basil, and honey. It elevated from very good to great when we dunked the large pieces in the accompanying curry turmeric dip. Most apps come with plastic tubs of house-made sauces that are varyingly tangy, creamy, spicy, and sweet, and make everything—much of which would be just fine on its own—even better.

Entrees are more free-form. Diners choose a base of white or brown rice, spinach, quinoa, or cauliflower rice, a protein, and a sauce, which includes vegetables. We went with shrimp and lobster sauce, which, according to the menu, is “actually really good chicken stock” with sherry, ginger, garlic, egg, soy, snow peas, and carrots. It lived up to its billing.

Three noodle dishes also are available. The street variety, prepared with crushed garlic, dried chiles, peanuts, scallion, ginger, and sambal, stood out. They were deliciously greasy and seriously spicy.

Every bag of carryout or delivery, which are the eatery’s focus, is stapled and slapped with a TigerStyle seal of approval sticker. We’ll attach one to the end of this review, too.

›› TIGERSTYLE 911-913 W. 36th St., 443-708-1037. Open 4-10 p.m. daily.

COMING SOON

Orto Baltimore: After Bottega owner Adrien Aeschliman recently moved out of state, former Food Market partner Elan Kotz stepped in to take over the Station North restaurant earlier this month. In a quick turnaround, Kotz has transformed the space into Orto—an Italian concept whose name translates to “vegetable garden.” The team also includes executive chef Stefano Porcile and pastry chef Jaime Hacker, who both worked in the space when it previously housed Aeschliman’s French concept Colette. “We were really fortunate to take on a couple of people who love the space and have a passion for it,” Kotz says. “It’s great that they’re able to bring that same energy.”

Orto officially opens this Saturday (it will be closed on Super Bowl Sunday) and will offer dinner service daily. Consisting of everything from small snacks to larger entrees, the locally sourced menu will feature house-marinated olives with fennel, a bibb salad with hazelnuts and radish, sweet onion and burrata flatbread, winter root vegetable polenta, and a whole grilled branzino with charred broccoli and mint salad. Hacker will serve sweets like a blood orange tart and tiramisu creme brûlée.

The Italian slant is also reflected in the interior renovation, which yields classic marmorino plaster treatment, large mirrors, marble accents throughout, and a new bar that has been lowered from standing height. Overall, Kotz is looking forward to being a part of the neighborhood, offering dining options for theater- and cinema-goers and commuters traveling to and from Penn Station. “I’ve always loved this neighborhood,” he says. “I want to make it a place where you can come in for a glass of wine on a Monday and then come back over the weekend on a date or with family.” 1709 N. Charles St.

TigerStyle: Next week, chef/owner Chad Gauss of The Food Market in Hampden is launching yet another spinoff project. In addition to the Mexican-influenced La Food Marketa in Pikesville, Gauss now operates TigerStyle—a wok-influenced carryout located around the back alley behind Avenue Kitchen & Bar on West 36th Street. Named after the popular Wu Tang Clan song, the spot will offer Asian-inspired appetizers (think spring rolls and Korean fried chicken wings) as well as DIY stir-fry dishes with customizable bases ranging from quinoa and salad greens to cauliflower rice and classic lo mein noodles.

Though he’s excited to get creative with the Asian ingredients, Gauss says that the eatery will also feature more local flavors like Maryland corn and crab meat in the summertime. “We’re not trying to be the next Momofuku,” he says. “We just want to have fun, please people, and not take it too seriously.” Expected to open on February 9, the casual spot decorated with old-school, hip-hop posters will offer 16 seats, but mostly focus on delivery service using apps like GrubHub and UberEats.

The project is a partnership between Gauss, The Food Market’s executive chef Nick Pasco, former Food Market general manager Patrick Rainey, and La Food Marketa’s executive chef Johntay Bedingfield—who was recently crowned a Chopped champion on an episode of the Food Network show that aired earlier this week. “He started as a grill cook and worked his way up to being a Chopped winner,” Gauss says. “These guys have all been with me for a long time, and this is a great outlet for everyone to get a little creative.” 911-913 W. 36th St.

Rise Biscuits Doughnuts: Columbia diners will soon get a taste of this chain eatery that has had Towson locals raving since it opened in the 1620 York Road shopping center last year. Coming this March, the new spot will debut on McGaw Road across from the Wegmans in Columbia. Open until 2 p.m. daily, Rise offers its namesake biscuits filled with savory ingredients like country sausage, fried green tomatoes, and buttermilk fried chicken. To satisfy sweet tooth cravings, the shop also features apple fritters, cinnamon rolls, and its famous maple-bacon doughnuts. 8872 McGaw Rd., Columbia.

CHINESE NEW YEAR CELEBRATIONS

The Corner Pantry: For the second year in a row, this Mt. Washington favorite is celebrating the Chinese New Year in style with a full-fledged Asian pop-up on February 5. Stop in to sample authentic dishes including duck spring rolls, kanpachi tartare, lemongrass pork sausage, miso black cod, and a “pig plate” with pork belly and barbecued char siu. Desserts will include Instagram-worthy bubble waffles and lychee-glazed doughnuts. The event overlaps with a big birthday for the restaurant, which turns 5 on February 14. 6080 Falls Rd. 667-308-2331

Ekiben x Clavel: Take a long lunch for this New Year’s pop-up at Ekiben from 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. on February 5. Chef Steve Chu (more on him later) is teaming up with Carlos Raba of Clavel to serve up his signature Asian-fusion dishes for the occasion. Though the menu hasn’t been finalized, we can only imagine there will be plenty of pork plates on deck in celebration of the Year of the Pig. 1622 Eastern Ave. 410-558-1914

NEWS

Steve Chu Wins Guy’s Grocery Games: Speaking of Ekiben, co-owner/chef Chu is feeling the love this week after he took home $16,000 on a Super Bowl-themed episode of Guy’s Grocery Games that aired on Food Network Wednesday night. Chu raced around the aisles of Fieri’s makeshift grocery store and won over judges with his tailgate-inspired dishes including a tempura vegetable basket with nacho cheese vinaigrette. After winning, Chu even whipped out a business card for Fieri, which he displayed on-air. (Talk about great promotion for the city.)

EPICUREAN EVENTS

2/2-3: Groundhog Day Sale at Bin 604
Regardless of whether Punxsutawney Phil sees his shadow this Saturday, Bin 604 in Harbor East is making the official prediction that we’re all going to need six more weeks of wine. To help locals stock up, the shop is throwing a massive Groundhog Day cellar raid. Hundreds of wines around the store will be available for $1 over wholesale cost all weekend long. Plus, the tasting bar will offer samples of some of the best discounted bottles. The two-day sale runs from 10 a.m.-10 p.m. Saturday and 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Sunday. 604 S. Exeter St. 410-576-0444

SHUT

Ristorante Firenze: Reisterstown diners were saddened when the Leonardi family announced that their Main Street staple closed for good. “It has been our pleasure to serve the Reisterstown community for the last four years, and we are grateful for the support of our loyal customers,” the staff wrote in an announcement posted to its website. “Many thanks to our fantastic staff for their hard work and dedication.” In addition to its cozy bar with flickering fireplaces, the Italian spot in the former home of Tonino’s was best known for its Boot Country pizzas and pastas. 2 Hanover Rd. Reisterstown

Courtney’s Bagel Cafe & Deli: Breakfast runs in Owings Mills won’t be the same after the closing of this institution across from the Stevenson University campus. Owner Susan Leeming recently told The Jewish Times that, after running the business for 20 years, she decided not to renew the building’s lease in hopes of giving herself some downtime. But we haven’t seen the last of Leeming: “I might end up with a Courtney’s tuna truck, you never know!” she told the JT. “It’s in my blood. I don’t think I’m finished.” As for the shop, the lease has been turned over to the team behind Quarry Bagel & Cafe in Pikesville, and is expected to reopen under new management in March. 11000 Owings Mills Blvd., Owings Mills