Once upon a time, the area south of Federal Hill but north of the Hanover Street Bridge was basically a no-man’s-land for those seeking fine food and drink. Sure, there were odd corner bars here and there (which we love), but to get an expertly mixed cocktail or a beer other than a Boh, you’d have to go elsewhere.

In 2018, Andrew Carter and his business partner, Jesse Selke, recognized that void, and wanted to fill it. AJ’s on Hanover was born.

“At the time there wasn’t really a push for food in the neighborhood,” Carter says. “We decided to capture the niche market with an
upscale tavern—not the experience if you went to a Cindy Wolf or an Atlas Group restaurant, but not stuff that’s dropped out of a bag.”

Four years later, AJ’s has become a popular spot, maintaining its feel as a neighborhood gathering place while offering a menu that is a bit elevated.

When we stopped in on a cold Tuesday night in November, it was hopping. Trivia, no doubt, was a big draw, but so were the crushes and crunch wraps that make AJ’s unique.

First, the drinks. Crushes are a Maryland favorite, and thus almost every bar feels compelled to offer them. However, only a handful of places do them right, and AJ’s is among them. The key is the ice.

“We have a special crusher that takes it down to almost snowball consistency,” Carter says. “It’s just a little thicker.”

There are several interesting varieties, including Key lime pie and a seasonal apple cider version, but the most popular is the SoBo lemon stick crush. Made with Deep Eddy Lemon vodka, fresh lemon juice, simple syrup, and soda water, it’s served with a peppermint stick. Crushes are often associated with summertime, but this one has a comforting sweetness that makes it feel like a great drink for the winter holidays, too.

Also perfect for cold weather is the Cool Bean, made with Jameson Cold Brew, Kahlua, hazelnut liqueur, brown sugar simple syrup, and cold brew coffee. It’s tasty even for a non-coffee drinker, but fair warning: If you consume one at night, your bedtime could be affected.

After the pandemic, Carter and Selke wanted to change AJ’s approach to food. With the help of a consultant, they came up with an idea we find inspiring. Along with the requisite burger and four varieties of decadent mac and cheeses (the bacon broccoli one is excellent), they added crunch wraps to the menu. If that term sounds familiar, it should.

“I love them, I get them from Taco Bell all the time,” Carter says. Now, many of his customers get them from AJ’s.

Essentially a sandwich stuffed into a tortilla, the crunch comes from a fried tortilla strip in the middle. The salmon version we tried also had bacon, which provided even more crunch. It’s a fun riff on fast food, taken to the next level.

Carter estimates that about 75 percent of AJ’s customers live within walking distance of the bar. If they were thirsty or hungry back in the day, they’d have to hoof it a lot farther.

OPEN

AJ’s on Hanover: Delia Foley’s owners Andrew Carter and Jesse Selke are looking forward to debuting this new neighborhood hangout just across the street from their Irish pub in Federal Hill. The duo has spent the last few months transforming the former South Hanover Street home of Bluegrass Tavern into a brand new concept with rehabbed bars, floors, and fixtures. They plan to open the doors for the first time this Saturday, October 27. The menu helmed by chef Allysa Storms—formerly of Button, now closed for the season in Canton—features elevated pub fare like a Scotch egg cobb salad, flash-fried Brussels sprouts, and bourbon chicken with a cauliflower mash. All dishes will be complimented by a robust bar program featuring craft cocktails and local beer from the likes of Diamondback Beer and Key Brewing. 1500 S.Hanover St.

The Back Yard: Bartenders Lara Sumerson and Mike Cavanagh, who both formerly worked at The Elephant in Mt. Vernon, have breathed new life into the decades-old Patrick’s of Pratt Street space in Hollins Market. Last month, the bar officially debuted as The Back Yard—a neighborhood pub offering eats, drinks, and plenty of flat screens for game-day watch parties. Expect to see local and regional draft beers, a lengthy wine list, and snacks ranging from colorful charcuterie boards to the bar’s signature tinned fish imported from as far as Spain and Portugal. 131 S. Schroeder St.

NEWS

Southside Diner: There are big changes on the horizon for this reliable spot tucked in the Southside Marketplace shopping center off of Fort Avenue in Riverside. A few weeks back, brothers Nick and Steve Karvounis announced that they would be opening a new burger spinoff inside the renovated Cross Street Market next year. In addition to that new project, the family-owned diner will also be expanding with a second location at the Rotunda in Hampden in the coming months. Since its debut in 2012, the diner has become a go-to for breakfast platters, burgers, and and other classic diner fare. The spot will add even more diversity to the Rotunda’s food offerings, which already include The Local Fry, MOD Pizza, and Moby Dick House of Kebab. 711 W. 40th St.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

10/28: Maryland Food Truck Week Finale Festival
Throughout the past week, dozens of local kitchens-on-wheels have been roaming the streets in celebration of Maryland Food Truck Week. The festivities will culminate this weekend with a full-blown foodie fest at the Baltimore Museum of Industry. Bring the whole family to enjoy live music, trick-or-treating activities, and, of course a lengthy lineup of local food trucks. Favorites expected to post up at the museum’s waterfront lot include The London Chippy, Smoking Swine, The Green Bowl, GoGanics, Pasta La Vista, Bistro Lunchbox, and Quinn’s Ice. A portion of all tips and proceeds will be donated to There Goes My Hero, an organization committed to supporting those impacted by blood cancer. 1415 Key Highway, 12-5 p.m.

10/31: Julia Child-Influenced Dinner and Discussion
If Halloween really isn’t your thing, make your way to Gunther & Co. to spend the evening feasting on five courses inspired by the cooking style of late culinary queen Julia Child. Chef/owner Jerry Trice will serve his homage to the chef while diners listen in on memories and stories from Child’s former assistant, Stephanie Hersh, who will also attend the intimate dinner. Optional wine pairings will be available for an additional $20. 3650 Toone St. 7-9 p.m. 443-869-6874. $75-109.

11/5: Vida Guest Bartender Series Benefiting No Kid Hungry
Starting in November, the first Monday evening of every month will feature a cocktail-filled celebration at Vida Taco Bar in Harbor Point. The spot is launching a guest bartending series that invites some of the city’s top mixologists to take over the bar in support of No Kid Hungry. The first installment next month will spotlight tiki and tequila drinks from local favorite Aaron Joseph and Ezra Allen of the Sagamore Pendry Hotel. A $5 cover will be charged at the door with proceeds benefiting No Kid Hungry’s Chefs Cycle program. 1401 Point St. 7-11 p.m. 443-835-3474. $5.

SHUT

Brio Tuscan Grille: On the heels of the closure of M&S Grill earlier this month, yet another Inner Harbor spot is also making plans to shutter its doors for good. According to the Baltimore Business Journal (BBJ), Ohio-based chain Brio Tuscan Grille is planning to close on November 4. An employee told the BBJ that part of the reason behind the closure was lagging sales due to “ongoing safety concerns downtown.” There is no word yet on what will become of the 250-seat restaurant at Calvert and Pratt streets, or the former M&S Grill space. The closures come at a transformative time for the Harborplace development, which is currently undergoing renovations and lost longtime tenants The Fudgery, Five Guys, and Noodles & Co. in 2018. 100 E. Pratt St. 410-637-3440

OPEN

Vida Taco Bar: Ever since the Central Avenue Bridge opened earlier this month, diners have enjoyed easy access to eateries in Harbor Point—the 27-acre peninsula that sits in between Harbor East and Fells Point. The most recent addition to the mixed-use development is a new location of Annapolis favorite Vida Taco Bar, which officially opened earlier this week. The strictly tacos-and-tequila menu features creative tortillas stuffed with everything from fried avocado and Buffalo cauliflower to glazed pork belly and soft-shell crab. Wash down all of the eats with colorful cocktails including a classic Paloma, watermelon margarita, and a hibiscus sangria. 1401 Point St., 443-835-8474

Dear Globe Coffee: Since it was founded last year, this local roastery has been winning over coffee fiends with its worldly blends sold at Remington Wine Company, Taps Fill Station, and local pop-up markets around town. Last week, owner LieAnne Navarro opened a brick-and-mortar headquarters for the coffee operation on Antique Row in Mt. Vernon. Swing by to sample the strong java drinks alongside muffins and cookies by local bakeshop Taste This Cake. To celebrate the opening, Bottoms Up Bagels will be on site slinging their signature bagels and sandwiches at the shop July 24-27 from 7-10 a.m. 827 N. Howard St., 443-850-5051

LemonTopia: Pucker up for this sweet pop-up that opened inside Cross Street Market earlier this week. Perfect for summer scorchers, the stall offers refreshing lemonades (think flavors like mint, cherry, and peach citrus) and other lemon-flavored treats created by 11-year-old Jamaria Crump. The young entrepreneur will be behind the counter on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, and Thursdays from 11 a.m.-2 p.m. and 4-6 p.m. until school starts back up in the fall. Stop by to indulge in the ultimate summer snack of lemonade paired with cookies, pie bites, cheesecake, and, of course, lemon bars. 1065 S. Charles St.

World of Beer: Adding to the thriving dining scene in Owings Mills—which recently welcomed Stanford Kitchen and will soon see a new Mexican hotspot—is the latest location of this Tampa-based craft beer franchise. World of Beer has officially debuted in the Metro Centre development offering a full food menu and more than 50 brews on tap. Drink your way through the local (think Union, Heavy Seas, Flying Dog, Jailbreak, etc.) and domestic selection while enjoying eats like mac and cheese bites, Margherita flatbreads, and DIY burgers. 10200 Grand Central Ave., Ste. 100, 410-363-1040

COMING SOON

AJ’s on Hanover: After a string of neighborhood closures—including Regi’s Bistro, Rachel New American Cuisine, and Metropolitan—South Baltimore locals will be happy to hear that the team behind Delia Foley’s on South Charles Street has taken over the former Bluegrass Tavern space one block over. Come September, owners Andrew Carter and Jesse Selke will transform the former Lowcountry spot into this community hangout featuring upscale pub grub, moderately priced entrees, oysters, wine, cocktails on tap, and a selection of craft beer. Stay tuned for more details. 1500 S. Hanover St.

NEWS

Chelsea Gregoire Named One of Eater’s Young Guns: It’s been an exciting week for Chelsea Gregoire. The local service industry veteran—who we name Best Bartender in our current “Best of Baltimore” issue on stands July 27—also received national acclaim from Eater this week. Gregoire earned a coveted spot on the publication’s annual “Young Guns” list, which praises food service up-and-comers from cities across the country. Aside from shouting out her work as bar manager at the new Hotel Revival, the piece mentions Gregoire’s consulting business, Drinkable Genius, as well as her work to advocate for women and LGBTQ+ professionals. “More than ever, I want to encourage people to take up their space,” she told Eater. “I’m excited to do what I do and bring people along with me as I go.”

EPICUREAN EVENTS

7/19: KoRYEan Pop-Up at Rye
Throughout the past year, Haenyo has invaded local kitchens including Dylan’s Oyster Cellar, Forno, R. House, Cafe Andamiro, and Village Square Cafe to serve its signature Korean-fusion dishes to the masses. Now, the pop-up is celebrating its first birthday in style with a special event at Rye in Fells Point. Head to the bar tonight to sample an a la carte menu of small plates such as yukhoe (beef tartare), shrimp and kimchi mandu, and spicy tteokbokki (stir-fried rice cakes) paired with Korean-inspired cocktails crafted by the Rye team. 1639 Thames St. 6-11 p.m. 443-438-3455

7/19: Gathering for the Gazette

Tonight, Mick O’Sheas in Mt. Vernon is hosting this trivia fundraiser to support victims of the tragic shooting in the Capital Gazette newsroom last month. All trivia proceeds and donations will benefit the Capital Gazette Families Fund—which aids survivors and families of the victims with funeral costs, grief and trauma counseling, and other expenses that might arise as a result of the tragedy. In true Charm City fashion, many local establishments including Mother’s Grille, DuClaw Brewing, Alexander’s Tavern are helping to support the cause by donating gift cards to be raffled off as prizes at the event. 328 N. Charles St. 6:30-9 p.m. 410-539-7504