For an entire week after George Floyd’s death at the hands of Minnesota police, Amanda Mack didn’t bake a thing.

The Crust by Mack owner, a lifelong baker who considers being in the kitchen part of her self-care routine, couldn’t bring herself to turn on the oven. And the grand opening of her stall inside the newly refurbished Whitehall Market in Hampden—a dream she’s had since launching the business in 2017—seemed insignificant given the weight of her grief and what was happening in the world around her.

“It’s been a very heavy time,” says the black business owner and mother of three. “Promoting stuff for people to buy was just hard for me to come up with the words to start talking about. But I had a conversation with my husband that really brought me back to life.”

Mack’s husband, Jarrod, was able to convince her that—even as protests continue and dining establishments remain closed for indoor service—she has much to be proud of.

“He just said, ‘You deserve this,’” she recalls. “I realized I should be celebrating the journey it took to get here. I should be celebrating women in business and minority-owned businesses. Even though times are hard, we still have something to celebrate.”

On the heels of that conversation, Mack took to social media to announce that she would be offering $25 “Celebration” pastry boxes filled with four full-sized treats as a way to toast the opening while giving back to the black community. She’s donating 10 percent of all proceeds from the packages, which sold out in two days, to Invisible Majority—a local incubator that provides resources for the black creative community. Mack raised more than $400 for the organization, and she’s donating 40 of the boxes to families who have lost loved ones to gun violence or police brutality.

“At the end of the day I think it’s a call on my people to show up for me,” she says. “Right now, the country is looking to support black-owned businesses and to amplify our voices. Let this be an invitation to them.”

Amanda Mack and her signature hand pies at Crust by Mack.

Meanwhile, all of the merchants in the renovated, 18th-century flour mill agreed that now is a time for the community to reflect on the current climate—which is why the market, a project more than five years in the making, opened quietly last week with little fanfare.

Currently, Crust by Mack, boutique catering and prepared foods eatery Gundalow Gourmet, local teahouse Wight Tea Co., and Western Maryland-based Firefly Farms Market are open for curbside pickup and takeout Wednesday through Sunday from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m. Satellite locations of Cocina Luchadoras and Ceremony Coffee, as well as sustainably sourced gift shop Homebody General Store and chef Rey Eugenio’s Filipino restaurant, Heritage, are expected to debut in the market in the coming weeks.

“[Because of the pandemic], we’re stretched as thin as we’ve been in a long time,” says Michael Koch, who co-founded Firefly Farms with his husband, Pablo Solanet, in 2002. “But we’re all so proud of what we’ve built together. As exhausted as we might be, the space is gorgeous.”

Inside the 18,000-square-foot property developed by Terra Nova Ventures’ David Tufaro and Jennifer Nolley, each stall reflects the spirit of the individual makers. Heritage highlights a 10-seat steel bar beneath golden light fixtures, Gundalow boasts shelves stocked with cookbooks and pantry goods, and Firefly features a walk-in cheese cave that will be used to educate visitors about the art of cheesemaking.

“There’s a real geekiness at the heart of Firefly,” Koch says. “People can engage with us and ask about what makes one cheese different from the other.”

Brittany Wight of Wight Tea Co.,which is donating 10 percent of proceeds from its first week to Colin Kaepernick’s Know Your Rights Camp.

Pablo Solanet of Firefly Farms.

Mack collaborated with designers, and fellow black business owners, Tiffanni Reidy of Reidy Creative and Phylea Carter of Design My Investment ATL to create her inviting stall that features blush tones, comfy high-top window seats, plush chairs, and lots of interior greenery.

“It was really important to create a structure that allows me to invite people to sit down so I can ask, ‘How’s your day? How’s your heart?’” Mack says. “You’d be surprised how much you can find out about a stranger over a cup of coffee and a pie.”

Creating unity with neighbors is one thing that vendors hope can be a silver lining of the market’s opening during a global pandemic and a national outcry. As Baltimore continues to place an emphasis on supporting small businesses, especially those that are black-owned, Koch hopes that Whitehall can be part of the recovery.

“Now the return to hyper-local and the need to connect with one’s community is so underscored,” he says, “not just from a food system perspective, but from a true diverse community perspective. It’s just never been more important.”

Though diners aren’t going to be able to fully experience the bakery until restaurants reopen entirely, Mack knows this period is not forever. She’s looking forward to the day when she can host her first of many social justice-focused panel discussions and events in the space. “We’re going to get through this,” she adds. “It’s hard right now, but it’s going to get better. The city is coming together.”

As for Mack getting back into the kitchen: “Once I start, I probably won’t stop,” she says. “I’m pouring everything I have into these boxes. When we talk about the whole idea of soul food, it’s more than a cultural thing. Our ancestors literally put their blood, sweat, and tears into their food. That’s why you can taste the difference. They were planting those seeds. They were harvesting the grains. It was different because their experiences were different. That’s where that flavor came from, so I’m definitely going to be putting a lot of soul into these boxes.”

COMING SOON

Crust by Mack: Chef Amanda Mack’s beloved baked goods have been added to the lineup of local eats that will be offered inside Hampden’s Whitehall Food Market when it opens later this year. After nearly two years of focusing solely on pop-ups and deliveries, Mack will set up shop inside the communal space to serve her sweet-and-savory hand pies (think everything from cherry almond to the “Bmore Crust” filled with jumbo lump crab meat), as well as cinnamon rolls and a Baltimore-inspired chocolate chip cookie made with brown butter and Old Bay. “It’s so Baltimore, but then it’s also that classic chocolate chip cookie that everybody dreams of,” she says, also mentioning brunch pastries that will be paired with Champagne and bellinis. In keeping with Mack’s social justice philosophy, she is looking forward to hosting community gatherings and speaker series in the market’s designated events space. “It’s the perfect location,” she says. “I’m excited to be around other like-minded people and collaborate with some of my favorite brands.”

THB Neighborhood Bagelry + Deli: Since opening its flagship in Towson 20 years ago, THB has expanded into three other neighborhoods and served more than 52 million bagels to the Baltimore community at large. To celebrate its big birthday, the deli is widening its footprint yet again—this time to Howard County. A fifth shop at Columbia Crossing is slated to open this winter, highlighting THB’s signature breakfast sandwiches, wraps, salads, and paninis.

OPEN

Pizza di Joey: The footlong “monster” slices from this roving pizza truck have finally found a permanent home inside Cross Street Market. Owner Joey Vanoni debuted a brick-and-mortar stall inside the renovated market last weekend, just in time for the Ravens home opener. Stop by the stall—or the attached take-out window that is open until 12 a.m. on Saturdays for revelers in Federal Hill—for wood-fired slices topped with everything from pepperoni and mozzarella to barbecue chicken and lump crab. Pizza di Joey joins newly opened spots Rice Crook, Annoula’s Kitchen, and Gangster Vegan in the revitalized property, which is expected to be fully leased by spring 2020.

NEWS

Le Comptoir du Vin Ranked Best in the Country by Bon Appetit: The fastidious food editors at Bon Appetit magazine narrowed their list of the 50 Best New Restaurants in the country down to 10 this week, and local diners were ecstatic to see that beloved French bistro Le Comptoir du Vin made the cut. Coming in at No. 8 on the list of the top newcomers in America, the Station North spot was praised for its chicken liver pâté, hand-cut steak tartare, and fresh-baked breads.

“The food is not even really what Le Comptoir is about,” writes editor Julia Kramer. “It’s about having a place where you feel immediately welcomed…a place where you just wanna hang out, as golden hour fades, hoping the night never ends.” We couldn’t agree more. In response to the award, co-owners Will Mester and Rosemary Liss took to Instagram to thank their team, Bon Appetit, and the city as a whole: “We love this city and are so proud to be here,” reads the post. “Thank you Baltimore for your love and support.”

EPICUREAN EVENTS

9/20-22: Mount Vernon Marketplace Turns 4
In the four years since Mount Vernon Marketplace debuted on Park Avenue, we’ve seen OG vendors like The Local Oyster, Cultured, Pinch Dumplings, and Taps Filling Station cement their place in the local dining landscape. And, along the way, the market has welcomed exciting new concepts like Indibowl, Mr. Souvlaki, and Fishnet. In celebration of the food hall’s four-year anniversary this weekend, all of the stalls will be running individual specials. Be on the lookout for $5 milkshakes and orders of fries at Between 2 Buns, $5 rice bowls and $10 soju bottles at Brown Rice, and a “Five Buck Birthday Cup”—which tops a sweet cream base with Oreos and birthday sprinkles—at Roll Bmore.

9/23: Farm to Chef Maryland
In honor of its 10th anniversary, this culinary competition benefitting local nonprofit TasteWise Kids is back and bigger than ever. Nearly 30 chefs—including Stefano Porcile of Orto, Jesse Sandlin of The Outpost American Tavern, Mark Levy of Magdalena, Doug Wetzel of Gertrude’s, and David Thomas of Ida B’s Table—will be paired with a local farm and tasked with creating a dish that showcases Baltimore’s bounty of homegrown produce. Plus, cocktail connoisseurs from the Baltimore Bartenders’ Guild will also use herbs and other ingredients from the featured farms to mix up signature beverages. Attendees will vote for their favorite eats and drinks of the night, and a portion of all proceeds will support the nonprofit’s efforts to educate kids about the origins of their food.

SHUT

The Haute Dog Carte: The Mt. Washington scene lost this old standby earlier this month. Chef Daniel Raffel took to Facebook to announce that he would be shutting down his hot dog cart—stationed in a converted garage next to Bonjour Bakery on Falls Road—indefinitely. “I am humbled by the kindness, support and love from all who joined me on this fun adventure,” he wrote. “I will sign off until there is something to report.” Some of the offerings that became favorites among lunchtime regulars included the spicy Italian dog topped with onion jam and the smoked country sausage with whole grain mustard. Here’s hoping the fabulous franks stuffed inside flaky baguettes will make a comeback sometime soon.

Chef Amanda Mack vividly remembers assisting her grandmother in the kitchen as a young girl. Together, they would make everything from cakes and pies to biscuits and breads.

“She made everything from scratch,” Mack says. “It was that excitement of waiting for the yeast to rise and for it to come out of the oven that was so special—and the fact that she included me in every part of the process.”

The skills that Mack developed at a young age have now come full circle with Crust by Mack, her small-batch baking business that specializes in hand pie varieties like spiced pumpkin, mixed berry, brown butter strawberry basil, and cherry with a chocolate espresso drizzle.

“For me, it’s all about the crust” she says. “Ever since I was a child, my favorite food has been pizza because I’ve always loved anything that has to do with dough. That’s really how Crust started—from my love for butter and dough. It was just kind of a no-brainer.”

After nearly one year of focusing solely on pop-ups and deliveries, Mack is now ready to expand with a brick-and-mortar bakery that she is hoping to open by summer 2019.

Though she is still in the process of scouting locations, her hope is that the space will operate as a full-service bakery Monday through Wednesday—offering fresh-baked breads, toasts, croissants, seasonal small plates, and the signature hand pies—and then open its doors for community programming Thursday through Sunday.

“The bakery is built on entrepreneurial equity,” she says. “I wanted to create a business that not only fed my community, but helped fuel the community. I understand how difficult it is to excel in business if you don’t have have access to the simplest things like mentorship and advice.”

This week, Mack is launching a crowdfunding campaign using the platform iFundWomen with the goal of raising $30,000 to support the community mission. Rather than using the donations to get the bakery up and running, she wants to dedicate the funds to establishing workshops, mentoring initiatives, a speaker series on entrepreneurship, and a scholarship program for school-age children.

“Whether we hit our goal or not, the show is going to go on,” she explains. “This is just a way for people to rally around it and be involved in the process.”

The social justice focus is something that is deep-rooted for Mack. Though her grandmother’s influence made it seem that she was always destined to work in the hospitality industry, she initially began her career in marketing and communications.

She spent years fighting for food justice with urban farms and the B’More Healthy program at the Johns Hopkins School of Public Health, and even penned a children’s book educating kids about food deserts titled Greens Don’t Grow in Cans.

“I grew up in the projects, and all of the supermarkets only sold canned fruits and vegetables,” she says. “It took until I got older for me realize, there’s more to life than this. I had to go out of my zip code to see all of the other stores, farmers’ markets, and community gardens.”

In 2016, she felt the need to get back in the kitchen and began working as a chef at Dovecote Cafe—the Reservoir Hill gem whose community values very much aligned with her own. But after a year and a half, Mack’s love of baking prompted her to start her own venture.

“I felt like baking was really my passion,” she says. “It’s so methodical that it became part of my self-care routine. You have to be so precise and systematic. It really takes you to a different place.”

The new bakery will be a fusion of all of Mack’s experiences, from fighting for food justice to working in the culinary world. Above all, she hopes that it can be a hub where people from all walks of life can come together to help one another.

“I have this general idea that community is larger than who is next to you,” she says. “It’s about creating a family. We want to have a place where food fuels people beyond the table.”