In response to the fried chicken wars that have recently played out on social media, we have only one thing to say: Eat your heart out, Popeye’s. Baltimore has a long-standing love of fried chicken. Chicken boxes are a Charm City staple that dates back to the 1930s. (One of the earliest records of the tradition, which is believed to have derived from the packed lunches of the Great Migration, is a 1933 Baltimore Sun ad for a $1 box of fried chicken and a loaf of toasted bread.) And the rise of Royal Farms has put us on the map as a bonafide drumstick destination. Locally, there are plenty of restaurants that take this reputation seriously.

Among them is BRD (pronounced Bird), the R. House chicken-sandwich concept that was part of the Remington food hall’s opening roster when it debuted in 2016. In October, owner Alex Janian officially spread BRD’s, well, wingspan with a second location on the bottom floor of the new Wheelhouse apartment complex in Federal Hill. Designed by PI.KL Studio, the same firm that built the Remington stall, the new space carries over a similar aesthetic with light woods, touches of red and black, communal seating, and the same counter-service model as the flagship.

But, when it comes to the menu in the larger spinoff space, there are plenty of new additions to savor. Of course, loyalists can count on old standbys such as the “Bmore Bird” sandwich—an inevitably messy but filling affair that stacks two hefty hunks of crispy-fried chicken with house-made pickles, Old Bay, and the signature BRD sauce reminiscent of spicy mayo. There’s also the Japanese-inspired “Katsu Sando” layered with cabbage and a tangy katsu sauce, as well as the “Angry Buffalo” dripping with hot sauce in between a soft potato bun.

But, the second location—which is open until 3 a.m. on Fridays and Saturdays to accommodate Fed Hill revelers after last call—also wisely highlights expanded offerings, including an Indian-influenced “Bombay BRD” sando with cilantro and curry sauce, wings tossed in maple honey mustard and Carolina barbecue sauces, hand-spun milkshakes (banana split and PB&J flavors are a hit), and “BRD Bites”—Janian’s version of chicken nuggets.

After a recent visit to Mothers’ Purple Patio to catch a Sunday afternoon Ravens game, we made our way across the street to sample an order of the nuggets alongside an overflowing box of piping hot, seasoned fries. Although either would have been satisfying on their own, in this case, the dipping sauces took them to the next level. You can’t go wrong with a side of orange BRD sauce, but in an effort to get out of our comfort zone, we tried the maple mustard—which provided just the right amount of sweetness to enhance the dunkable snacks to the next level.

While enjoying the eats in the space, diners will notice a glowing neon sign that reads, “Fried and True.” It’s a fitting mantra—because if you’re going to run a fried chicken joint in Baltimore, it has to be the real deal.

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›› BRD 1104 S. Charles St., 667-210-2222. Mon.- Wed. 5-10 p.m., Thur. 5-midnight, Fri. 5 p.m.-3 a.m., Sat. 11- a.m.-3 a.m., Sun. 11 a.m.-10 p.m.

Though upscale salad toppings such as ginger-miso dressing and Dijon vinaigrette are popular at area eateries, the enduring ranch dressing—a rich blend of buttermilk, sour cream, mayonnaise, herbs, and spices—somehow remains both classic and trendy.

Lovers of the creamy dressing owe it all to a cowboy named Steve Henson. While working as a contract plumber in Alaska in the early ’50s, Henson started serving ranch dressing to his crew. In 1954, he and his wife, Gayle, opened the Hidden Valley dude ranch near Santa Barbara, where they began selling the sauce. By the end of the ’60s, orders were being shipped to all 50 states—and around the world.

On a local level, Essex-based dressing company Tessemae’s continues Henson’s legacy with a healthy twist. Tessemae’s ranch dressings are organic and dairy-free and come in a variety of one-of-a-kind flavor profiles, from spicy habañero to the citrusy cilantro lime—and even everything bagel.

“We typically develop flavors based on what’s inspiring us, what we want to eat, and what we want to feed our families at home,” says Kristen Dittami, Tessemae’s executive chef and executive vice president of research and development. And while their fastest- growing flavor is avocado ranch, their most popular flavor, by far, is their classic, creamy version.

“Everyone grew up with some kind of ranch dressing,” Dittami says. “With our ranch dressing, we’re able to provide that same a flavor profile people love, but with organic, better-for-you ingredients.”

Head to these local hotspots to sample the delectable dressing on wings and other things:

BRD: Located inside R. House and in Federal Hill, this snack shop serves all things chicken, including tasty Alabama White and Sweet Thai Chili wings. 301 W. 29th St.

Ale Mary’s: Ale Mary’s offers a pound of grilled wings with your choice of ranch or blue cheese on the side. For something smaller, try the cheesy tots, which are also served with ranch dressing. 1939 Fleet St.

Joe Squared: This popular Station North eatery offers everything from sweet pineapple jerk wings to “extremely hot” 18 pepper wings. 33 W. North St.

Kislings Tavern: For a dizzying selection of wing flavors, including mango habañero, buffalo Thai peanut, and chipotle BBQ, stop into this Canton favorite. 2100 Fleet St.

The Local Fry: This Hampden restaurant serves international eats and a variety of flavors of wings, like Kansas City BBQ and Carribbean Citrus, as well as ranch-topped chicken bacon fries. 711 W. 40th St.

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In other ranch news: Last March, about 8,000 bottles of ranch dressing spilled from a truck after it crashed near Hagerstown. The product fell into the Little Conococheague Creek, where it floated downstream. At one point, workers cleaned up about 3,000 bottles of the creamy sauce that were pooled in a single area along the creek.

COMING SOON

BRD: Back in February, we told you about R. House chicken sandwich stall BRD’s plans to expand to the heart of Federal Hill. After months of work setting up the eatery on the bottom floor of the Wheelhouse apartment building across from Cross Street Market, a grand opening date is finally in sight. Owner Alex Janian will debut his second BRD location to the public on Monday, October 7, offering an extended menu that will highlight new items like thick milkshakes and “BRD Bites”—his take on chicken nuggets.

Of course, diners can also expect the signature sandwiches (including the Katsu Sando and the Bmore Bird with Old Bay and dill pickles) hand-cut fries, dipping sauces, and fountain sodas that they have grown familiar with at the Remington flagship. The best part? The communal dining space designed by PI.KL Studio will be open until 3 a.m. on weekends so that revelers hanging around South Charles Street can still get their fix after last call. “We want to be there when people want it,” Janian told us. “We want to be there when the crowds are there, and we want to be enjoying the night right along with them.”

True Chesapeake Oyster Co.: Speaking of anticipated grand openings, this new Hampden spot will officially premiere to the public on Tuesday, October 8. As its name signifies, the collaborative project between former Wit & Wisdom chef Zack Mills, True Chesapeake oyster farmer Patrick Hudson, and The Local Oyster owner Nick Schauman will incorporate locally farmed bivalves into every aspect of the restaurant. Featured dishes will include oyster stew, semolina fried oysters, roasted half shells, and Mills’ take on a classic Rockefeller. Of course, there will also be other Maryland-inspired fare and an impressive bar lineup from beverage director and general manager Chelsea Gregoire.

OPEN

Red Pepper Sichuan Bistro: The former Allegheny Avenue home of La Cakerie in Towson has recently been transformed from a hot pink-painted bakery into this sleek dining destination specializing in authentic Sichuan cuisine. Fusing salty, sour, sweet, bitter, and floral flavors, the menu—written in both Chinese and English—goes beyond the traditional Kung Pao chicken and mapo tofu with everything from noodle soups to Sichuan street food. Highlights include spicy hot pots, fried pork with scallions, stir-fry Shanghai cabbage, and sweet-and-sour fish fillets. Diners are invited to snag a table in the renovated dining room—now equipped with wooden furniture and a grand piano—or order online for carryout.

NEWS

Lexington Market to Hold Second Community Meeting: The second in a series of quarterly meetings geared toward gathering community input for the Lexington Market revamp, slated to be completed mid-2021, is scheduled for Wednesday, October 9 from 6-7:30 p.m. The inaugural meeting at the end of June drew crowds that expressed a number of concerns, including increased food prices and a lack of employment opportunities. At the next installment, Seawall Development and Baltimore Public Markets plan to further discuss food access, affordable pricing options, and the recruitment process for new vendors inside the 237-year-old public market. In an effort to gain as much feedback as possible, organizers will be offering free childcare during the town hall.

“The project to transform Lexington Market represents an opportunity to prove that brought together in an inclusive way, a single building can unite a very divided city,” said Seawall co-founder Thibault Manekin, in a press release. “We look forward to sharing the progress we have made as a result of hundreds of hours of deep listening and inspiring conversations that we have had all over the city.”

EPICUREAN EVENTS

9/26: Origins: A Speaker Series

The latest iteration of this ongoing speaker series at Artifact Coffee—which we recently gave a Best of Baltimore award—aims to answer one pivotal question: Is it now or never for local farms? Listen in as a panel of female farmers—including Shelby Kalm of Fair Farms Maryland, Dena Leibman of Future Harvest CASA, and Anne Palmer of the Johns Hopkins Center for a Livable Future—discuss the state of agriculture across the mid-Atlantic. As always, the evening will begin with appetizers and cocktails and close out with a family-style meal inspired by the topic of conversation.

9/26-28: Saint Demetrios Greek Festival

The parishioners of Saint Demetrios Greek Orthodox Church in Parkville have been busy hand-making flaky baklava, stuffed dolmades (grape leaves), scrumptious spanakopita, and more tasty delicacies in preparation for their annual festival returning this weekend. Stop by to sample the flavors of Greece while enjoying folk dancing, live music, shopping, and a designated kids zone. If you still aren’t ready to turn in after all of the excitement, stay out for the Glendi on the Hill after party that will keep the music going until 3 a.m.

9/29: Bramble Bakes x Fat Tiger Bake Sale

Since opening inside Broadway Market in Fells Point last summer, sister concepts Old Boy, Fat Tiger, and El Tigre have already hosted tons of community pop-ups and events. And this weekend, all-day bar Fat Tiger is kicking off yet another initiative to support its fellow food businesses. In the first of many “bake sales” that will provide a temporary storefront to local pastry chefs, Allie Smith of Bramble Bakes will be setting up shop at the centerpiece bar to sell her sweet treats from 9 a.m. to 1 p.m. this Sunday. Be on the lookout for potato and leek hand pies, dark chocolate babka knots, five-spice morning buns, and coffee cardamom shortbread all paired with espresso and drip drinks from the Fat Tiger team.

From the beginning, R. House in Remington was meant to be a launchpad for aspiring chefs and restaurateurs to grow their budding food businesses beyond the communal food hall. A solid example is Alex Janian, the owner of BRD and Amano Taco who is expanding his fan-favorite chicken sandwich stall to South Baltimore this summer.

Though he was solely focused on getting the two concepts up and running inside R. House when it opened in 2016, as time went on, Janian started to think about how BRD could translate into other neighborhoods.

“We saw customers really latching on to it and coming back all the time,” he says. “And that’s when I really started thinking this could be something cool for Baltimore to experience in other parts of the city.”

Featuring BRD’s drool-worthy chicken sandwiches, wings, and fries, the Federal Hill shop will be located on the ground floor of Wheelhouse—a five-story apartment building currently under construction on the corner of South Charles and Cross streets. The late August debut will come at an ideal time for the neighborhood’s dining scene, which will also welcome the newly renovated Cross Street Market just across the street this spring.

Given the restaurant’s location in the heart of the Federal Hill bar district, Janian plans to stay open after last call on weekends.

“We want to be there when people want it,” he says. “We don’t want to close when people are hungry. We want to be there when the crowds are there, and we want to be enjoying the night right along with them.”

Diners can expect to see the same globally influenced sandwiches and wings (everything from spicy Japanese katsu to Jamaican jerk chicken), as well as the Old Bay-seasoned “Bmore Bird” and French fries with vinegar inspired by Janian’s local upbringing. But the new menu will also grow to include crispy chicken tenders and thick milkshakes to wash down all of the eats.

Taking up 1,700 square feet of Wheelhouse’s ground-level retail space, the eatery will offer 40 seats and feature the same counter-service model that BRD does at R. House. In fact, Janian says that many aspects of the new space will take inspiration from the food hall flagship, developed in part by his brother, Chris, founder of Vitruvius Co.

“We’re going after a similar vibe,” he says. “The developers at R. House did such a great job creating a communal space where people can come and stay for hours. We want that convivial atmosphere where people can rub elbows with friends, or even meet people they don’t know.”

Designed by Kuo Pao Lian of PI.KL Studio—the same local firm that dreamed up the interior for R. House—the new spot will offer all communal tables, warm woods, and pops of red and black throughout.

“It’s going to be a space that’s both modern and very comfortable,” Janian adds. “It really centers around the communal table and the counter so that the focus is still on the food and the people sitting next to you.”

Janian, who says opening restaurants has been a dream of his since he was young, is looking forward to spreading the BRD footprint throughout his hometown.

“I’ve lived in Federal Hill before and I know the energy that’s there,” he says. “That’s the exact energy we want for BRD—people who love their food, love having a great time, and really just have a love for Baltimore.”