Poor Delaware. The “First State” has long had a rather lukewarm rap, with its intrigue for tourists perhaps most memorably captured in 1992’s Wayne’s World, where the boys sum up the excitement of various states. “Delaware!” exclaims Wayne with a puzzled look. “Hi…I’m in…Delaware…”

But Maryland’s tiny neighbor is actually a small wonder—once the state’s actual nickname—and one that’s likely to soon be discovered, thanks in part to the hometown pride of America’s 46th president, Joe Biden.

“I am proud,” said Biden, before departing for his inauguration in January. “Proud, proud, proud to be a son of Delaware.”

Less than an hour’s drive to the state line from Baltimore, Delaware is much more than just the 20 miles of I-95 you drive through on the way to Pennsylvania.

The second-smallest state—actually part of Maryland for some 50 years in the 1600s—features plenty of reasons to visit, from college-town charm to metropolitan buzz to a long, winding portion of the Delmarva peninsula that provides ample access to some of the best beaches on the Atlantic Coast.

So pack up the car, or purchase a train ticket. Of course, ice cream is encouraged along the way.

→ CITY CENTER

For many, a trip to Delaware begins and ends at the old Amtrak station on the edge of the Christina River in downtown Wilmington.

Built in 1907, the majestic brick building has become most famous for one particular passenger, “Amtrak Joe,” as he came to be known, with Biden using the railroad as his primary form of transportation to and from Washington, D.C., during his decades as a senator and eventually vice president—so much so that they named the station in his honor.

But the short ride from Baltimore’s Penn Station only takes 45 minutes, with impressive views over the Susquehanna River to boot. On our last visit, we detrained onto one of the old, un-remodeled platforms, fit with vintage tile floors, long wooden benches, and a chandeliered ceiling—a glimpse into the golden age of American travel.

Wilmington—the state’s largest city, with a population of 70,000—is also a mix of past and present, grit and gumption, with a revitalizing waterfront and bustling business district featuring renowned restaurants and striking architecture spanning the centuries.

Market Street is the main thoroughfare, where hallowed venues like the Grand Opera House and the Queen, a block over, offer post-COVID concerts in historic settings. The nearby Hotel DuPont is an iconic structure, Wilmington’s first skyscraper circa 1913, where luxury suites and a stunning Versailles-like ballroom mark the legacy of its namesake family—the Rockefellers of Delaware.

While you’re downtown, consider dinner at James Beard Award semi-finalist (and Biden favorite) Bardea, which offers innovative Italian fare, followed by craft cocktails at Merchant Bar. For breakfast, find a locally roasted coffee at one of Brew Haha!’s beloved quirky cafes, then try lunch at El Diablo Burritos for tortillas stuffed with braised short-rib or citrus-seared mahi, before burning it all off at the riverfront.

The Christina River, a tributary of the larger Delaware River, runs along the southern edge of the city, and has served as the lifeblood of its recent renaissance. A 1.3-mile promenade follows the water, with access to several picturesque detours, like the Jack A. Markell Trail or the Russell W. Peterson Urban Wildlife Refuge, that cut through verdant marshland, as well as attractions like the Delaware Children’s Museum, an interactive learn-and-play space for kids, or Frawley Stadium, the home field of the minor league Blue Rocks baseball team.

Perhaps the neighborhood’s best-kept secret, though, is the Delaware Contemporary, a leading visual arts museum, which recently exhibited large-scale works by Baltimore’s own Theresa Chromati.

Before you move on, take a short drive north into the Brandywine Valley to walk the magnificent gardens of the Nemours Estate or Winterthur Museum, home to late du Ponts, or sleep stylishly at the Inn at Montchanin Village, with its luxe countryside spa and accompanying eatery, Krazy Kat’s, which serves up brunch among oil paintings of noble felines.

But don’t overlook the no-frills fare at Charcoal Pit on Concord Pike, a classic 1950s burger joint known for its homemade milkshakes, where pictures of Joe and Barack Obama hang on the walls. Even still, there’s always a sub at Capriotti’s, launched in Wilmington in 1976, and dubbed by Biden “the best sandwich in America.”

→ SCHOOL SPIRIT

Biden might be the University of Delaware’s most famous alum, but he’s followed closely by Joe Flacco, who played college football there before joining the Ravens in 2008. Football games are still a big lure for sports-lovers across the state, who flock to the Newark campus, where boisterous tailgate parties take place in the stadium’s parking lot. The team’s Colonial Athletic Association affiliation also faces them off against the likes of our own Towson University.

About 20 minutes south of Wilmington, not far from the Maryland line, the school’s home base is a quaint and classic college town. The campus’ lush, central green is surrounded by Georgian classroom buildings, and its leafy downtown is studded with local boutiques and bistros, typically bustling with students and professors in a non-COVID year.

Amble down Main Street for a vinyl treasure trove at Rainbow Records, cute home goods and gifts at Grassroots, and all the Delaware swag you could possibly dream of at the National 5 & 10.

For locally made brews, try Iron Hill Brewery for regional classics, or the small-batch, experimental suds of the more recently opened Autumn Archer Beer Project. Follow them with creative vegetarian fare at Home Grown Café or homemade pastas at Caffe Gelato. Just save room for dessert at the on-campus UD Creamery, which sells ice cream made with the milk of cows cared for by the schools’ College of Agriculture and Natural Resources.

For more scenic recreation, head 10 minutes north of town to White Clay Creek State Park, a sprawling greenspace for freshwater fishing, hiking, biking, and birding in a woodland setting, best accompanied by a copy of The Delaware Naturalist Handbook, written by UD professor and Baltimore resident McKay Jenkins.

While you’re up there, we recommend a quick hop into Pennsylvania for two of our top regional attractions: Longwood Gardens, featuring more than a thousand acres of botanical wonders, and the Brandywine River Museum of Art, home to an impressive collection of works by N.C. and Andrew Wyeth.

→ DOWNY OCEAN

Of course, many Marylanders have already spent a fair amount of time in Delaware, drawn to the several sandy beach towns that are located an hour and a half south of Newark and Wilmington down Route 1, or two hours from Baltimore across the Bay Bridge.

There’s Bethany, Fenwick, and Dewey, but Rehoboth is undoubtedly the most popular destination, with its nostalgic boardwalk and family-friendly shops without the hubub of nearby Ocean City. It was nicknamed “the Nation’s Summer Capital” in the 1920s, when newly paved roads opened the community to D.C. residents, and, today, Biden owns a beach house there, making it likely the next presidential Hyannis Port or Mar-a-Lago.

Unsurprisingly, the beachside boutiques are now filled with Biden swag, from candles to coffee mugs, and a scramble down Rehoboth Avenue toward the mile-long boardwalk to snag your own is a requisite. Along the way, swing into Browseabout Books, an independent stalwart with more than 35,000 titles, and Ryan’s Surf Shop, a circa-1961 spot for beach gear and boogie boards (not to mention a round of mini golf on the roof upstairs).

But we all know the reason we come to the beach: the junk food—from pizza slices, via Grotto’s, a go-to local chain born in Rehoboth, or Nicola, a seminal pie palace since 1971, to ice cream cones, be it frozen custard at Kohr Brothers or hand-dipped scoops at the Royal Treat. Road snacks abound for the ride home, too, at Dolles (saltwater taffy), Fisher’s (Old Bay caramel popcorn), and Thrasher’s (with vinegar, duh).

For a sit-down meal, a seat at the bar at Henlopen City Oyster House is our go-to for craft beers, fresh-shucked shellfish, and the best fried clams we’ve had. But don’t roll out of town without a spin in the teacups at Funland (preferably before you eat).

If we had our druthers, we’d spend most of the time in lesser-known Lewes, a cozy hamlet near the Tangier Outlets (tax-free shopping!) where the Delaware River meets the Atlantic Ocean.

Somehow, thus far, the little historic downtown has remained largely untouched by the kitschy commercialization of its touristy neighbors, and is mostly frequented by local residents and weekenders passing through on their way to or from the Cape May-Lewes Ferry. Visit the Station on Kings as you head into town for farm chic home goods and decadent desserts, as well as the Historic Lewes Farmers Market on Saturday mornings, considered one of the best on the peninsula.

In town, make a dinner reservation at the adorably decorated James Beard semifinalist Heirloom before dropping your bags at the hip Dogfish Head Inn. (Or your tent at the Cape Henlopen State Park, one the Mid-Atlantic’s best-kept-secret campgrounds, with plenty of nature—particularly along the Junction & Breakwater Trail—for non-campers to also enjoy.)

But back to Dogfish Head, because no trip would be complete without a final pit stop at this king of craft beer, with the Wonka-like brewery and tasting room just 15 minutes from Lewes, founded by local beer wizard Sam Calagione in 1995. Order one of their dozens of exclusive pints, lean back on their outdoor patio, and raise a glass to Delaware. Small Wonder, indeed.

OPEN

Tersiguel’s French Country Restaurant: We’re constantly inspired by the resilience of this French fine-dining den on Main Street in Ellicott City—which has endured a fire and three floods since opening in 1975. This week, the restaurant persevered yet again. After three months of rebuilding since the tragic flood on Memorial Day Weekend, husband-and-wife owners Michel and Angie Tersiguel officially reopened their restaurant earlier this week. “Nothing can stop us,” the owners posted to Facebook after the flood. “Our hearts are heavy, the road ahead is paved with blood, sweat, and tears, but it’s familiar territory, one we have traveled many times. And we will continue to do so.” Tersiguel’s reopening comes on the heels of Howard County executive Allan Kittleman’s announcement of a $50 million five-year flood mitigation plan—which will demolish 10 properties on the lower half of Main Street. See more recent reopening updates here. 8293 Main St., Ellicott City. 410-465-4004

COMING SOON

The Greener Kitchen: Pigtown will welcome this vegan worker-owned collective to its dining scene next month. Formerly known as PEP Foods Inc., The Greener Kitchen fulfills its wholesome mission by providing catering services and distributing its plant-based products to vegan restaurants in the area. In addition to boasting plenty of commercial kitchen space for other dairy-free purveyors, the new headquarters off of Washington Boulevard will also operate as a one-stop-shop for vegan groceries. Be on the lookout for dairy-free cheeses, marinated proteins, seitan and deli slices, sauces and dips, and an array of prepared foods to grab on the go. 803 Washington Blvd. 443-929-3706

Indigma: Mt. Vernon locals were saddened when this neighborhood mainstay—known for its classic Indian dishes and filling lunch buffet—shuttered its doors suddenly last year. But now, there is a possibility that Indigma could be making a comeback in the neighborhood. A sign posted to door of the old Tavern on the Hill space at 900 Cathedral Street indicates that Indigma owners Christina Martija and Tony Chemmanoor are requesting to obtain a liquor license for the space. Though nothing has been set in stone as of yet, diners are holding out hope that Indigma’s samosas, curries, chutneys, and gulab jamun (deep-fried honey balls) will return very soon. 900 Cathedral St.

Milk & Honey Market: Speaking of comebacks, this former Mt. Vernon staple is returning with two locations in Station North and Pigtown in the coming months. Owners Ernst and Dana Valery closed their beloved market on Cathedral Street in 2016, and have since been working on a new cafe on the bottom floor of the Nelson Kohr apartment building in Station North. The duo recently told The Baltimore Sun that the store is expected to be finished this fall, and a second Milk & Honey location in Pigtown will follow soon after. The Pigtown iteration will be housed in the new Bath House Square project that the owners are developing on Washington Boulevard. Both locations are expected to offer the market’s signature breakfast sandwiches, paninis, soups, charcuterie boards, and coffees. 20 E. Lanvale St. and 906 Washington Blvd.

UNION COLLECTIVE UPDATES

Vent Coffee Roasters: Locals have enjoyed getting acquainted with Union Collective in Medfield this summer. The massive makerspace which you can spot from I-83, opened in June—debuting Union Craft Brewing’s new taproom and production facility, a state-of-the-art Earth Treks bouldering gym, and an ice cream factory from The Charmery. The latest tenant to join the pack is Vent Coffee Roasters, which opened in the space last weekend. Featuring sleek wood picnic tables and a roll-up garage door, the bright shop offers a full coffee and espresso bar from longtime barista Sarah Walker. Other highlights include nitro cold brews, Chemex and Aeropress offerings, teas, chocolate chip cookies, and other locally sourced pastries. Vent will be open from 7 a.m.-6 p.m. on weekdays and 8 a.m.-6 p.m. on weekends. 1700 W. 41 St.

Baltimore Spirits Company: On deck to open at Union Collective next month is this homegrown distillery, which was formerly headquartered in Remington. In conjunction with the grand opening of its production facility and tasting room at the Collective on September 15, Baltimore Whiskey Company has officially changed its name to Baltimore Spirits Company. The team hopes that the new name will better reflect the diversity of their products, which include gin, brandy, and amaro in addition to whiskey. Aside from providing more room to breathe, the new production space will use a custom geothermal system to sustainably distill award-winning spirits like Epoch Rye and Shot Tower Gin. “We can’t wait to show everyone what we’ve built over here,” co-founder Max Lents said in a statement. “We will certainly miss our old location on Sisson Street. It had a lot of character, but when people see our new space, they will understand how we’ve carried that character forward.” 1700 W. 41 St.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

8/31: Food Truck Rally at the Baltimore Museum of Industry
Kick off your long weekend with this foodie get-together to benefit There Goes My Hero, a nonprofit that works to improve the lives of blood cancer patients and their families. More than 15 local food trucks will be parked against the waterfront backdrop at the Baltimore Museum of Industry, serving everything from burgers and barbecue to tacos and ice cream. (Be on the lookout for favorites including Farm to Charm, Kommie Pig, The Smoking Swine, and Bistro Lunch Box.) Plus, enjoy family-friendly activities, sip beers from Heavy Seas, and dance to live tunes spun by DJ Neil Paul. Baltimore Museum of Industry, 5-9 p.m. Free admission.

9/4: Brewer’s Dinner with Dogfish Head at Rye Street Tavern
Rye Street Tavern in Port Covington is continuing its monthly Brewer’s Dinner series with a four-course meal that will pair each dish with a different Dogfish Head beer. Snag a seat on the restaurant’s lawn overlooking the Patapsco River to dig in to a bay scallop crudo with SeaQuench ale, smoked ricotta cappelletti paired with Punkin’ Ale (yes, it’s almost that time of year), a duo of beef with the Bitches Brew imperial stout, and a Hawaiian chocolate trifle with the Luau-luau IPA. 225 E. Cromwell St. 7-10 p.m. $85. 443-662-8000.

CH-CH CHANGES

Johnny’s: Changes are on the horizon at this Roland Park mainstay, which has been serving up its signature comfort food with West Coast flair since it debuted in 2012. Inspired by co-owner Tony Foreman’s fond memories of family dinners at seafood restaurants as a kid, the restaurant has recently revamped its menu to focus on oceanic offerings. Executive chef Shane Freeland—formerly of Johnny’s sister-spot, Cinghiale—now presents dishes including Maryland crab soup, peel-and-eat shrimp, soft-shell crab, and pan-fried crab cakes with carrot coleslaw. Aside from the seafood specialties, the menu also lists a “Landfood” category with eats such as Maryland fried chicken, smoked baby back ribs, and an angus burger. Despite the menu overhaul, the restaurant’s signature coffee, espresso, and pastry program will remain a staple. 4800 Roland Ave., 410-773-0777

Arômes: This quaint Hampden BYOB has become known for its multi-course tasting menus crafted by French-born chef/owner Steve Monnier. But next week the restaurant will be switching gears, foregoing its prix-fixe formula in favor of a la carte offerings. Starting on May 25, Monnier will debut a classic bistro menu featuring dishes such as a market salad with oyster vinaigrette, onion soup with a sourdough crouton, monkfish with crème fraiche, and lavender-glazed duck breast. Desserts of note include classics like a chocolate tart and strawberry Napoleon. 3520 Chestnut Ave., 410-235-0035

Mad River Baltimore: It’s the end of an era for Federal Hill revelers who have made this South Charles Street staple their go-to hangout over the past decade. Earlier this week, operation partners Andrew Wheeler and David Yike announced that the multi-level lounge would be undergoing a large-scale rebrand in the coming months. “It’s all good things,” Wheeler tells us. “We’re not walking away from the building, but we feel it’s just time to go in a different direction.” Although the partners are keeping details about the new concept under wraps, they say that they’re excited to give Mad River a proper sendoff this weekend. This Saturday night after Preakness, head to the bar for one last blowout featuring guest bartenders, drink specials, and DJ entertainment. 1110 S. Charles St., 410-727-2333

RegionAle: Just in time for summer, this new Ellicott City sandwich shop has added a lineup of refreshing wine slushies to its menu. Kick back on the eatery’s newly opened outdoor patio while sipping varieties like strawberry-lemon with Pinot Grigio and coconut-lime blended with basil and ice. To celebrate National Wine Day on May 25, the discounted drinks will run for $4 throughout Memorial Day Weekend. Aside from the slushies, the shop has also added a summer-inspired Maine Lobster Roll to its list of seasonal offerings. 5705 Richards Valley Road, Ellicott City, 410-465-0505

COMING SOON

Haenyo: This new pop-up from local industry veterans Irvin Seo and Collin Morstein will begin hosting one-night Korean street food dinners throughout the city beginning on Memorial Day. The inaugural event held at Holy Crepe Cafe in Canton on May 29 will feature a lineup of authentic eats handcrafted by Seo—who recently returned from a month-long trip to Korea. The casual, counter-service dinner will be BYOB, and showcase items like banchan (small dishes served over rice), lettuce wraps, and Korean-style pancakes including “haemulpajeon”—a seafood iteration dedicated to the haenyo (female divers) of Korea’s Jeju Island. 2929 O’Donnell St., 5-10 p.m.

The Chasseur: Be on the lookout for a brand new top-level space debuting at this Canton favorite in late July. Management has added an entire third floor to the building, which will act as an indoor-outdoor space with retractable garage-style doors that lead out to a patio boasting high-top tables, television screens, and a fully-stocked bar. The spot—which features burgers, salads, and hearty New American entrees—will also roll out a full raw bar menu in conjunction with the debut of the patio. 3328 Foster Ave., 410-327-6984

NEWS

Gnocco Chef Recognized by Zagat: Gnocco executive/chef owner Brian Lavin received some national love last week when he was recognized as a semi-finalist for Zagat’s acclaimed 30-Under-30 list. Lavin is best known for preparing forward-thinking Mediterranean cuisine at his Highlandtown restaurant, which celebrates its one-year anniversary next month. The list recognizes exceptional talent in hospitality markets across the country and will be narrowed down to 45 finalists in June with the winners being announced in September. 3734 Fleet St., 443-449-6540

Lobster Roll Fridays Return to The Corner Pantry: As temperatures rise, this Mt. Washington community spot is bringing back its Maine lobster roll special on Fridays throughout the summer. Starting on May 26, chef/owner Neill Howell will be serving up five ounces of warm lobster meat tucked inside a toasted brioche bun with fries and a pickle for $28. 6080 Falls Road, 667-308-2331

BREWERY BUZZ

Dogfish Head Brewings & Eats: It’s been a big year for Dogfish Head Brewing co-owner Sam Calagione, who recently clinched a James Beard Award for Outstanding Wine, Spirits or Beer Professional. On top of the national acclaim, Calagione recently announced that Dogfish Head’s flagship brewpub in Rehoboth would be relocating to expanded digs next door. Dogfish Head Brewings & Eats—the new 6,300-square-foot space on Rehoboth Avenue—will feature the brand’s signature craft beers, pub grub, and live music in a revamped space complete with soaring walls, cozy booths, and oversized fishbowl glass windows that allow for lots of natural light.  The space, which opens on May 19, will pair cocktails and Dogfish beers (think SeaQuench Ale and the 90-Minute IPA) with bites like seafood tacos, Buffalo chicken mac and cheese, and pizza out of a hearth oven. 320 Rehoboth Ave., Rehoboth, DE, 302-226-2739

Nepenthe Homebrew: This home-brewing supply shop in Woodberry’s Meadow Mill complex is making moves to a larger home in 2018. After experiencing two floods in the store’s current location, husband-and-wife owners Brian Arnold and Jill Antos have decided to relocate Nepenthe to an expanded 11,000-square-foot property nearby on Falls Road. Aside from selling the brand’s signature beer-making tools, the new space will also house a brewpub with a full kitchen and its own 10-barrel brewhouse.  3622 Falls Road

Union Craft Brewing: In yet another expansion, Nepenthe’s neighbors Union Craft Brewing also recently announced that they would be moving to a larger facility in the neighborhood. The beloved brewery, whose logo has become a ubiquitous Baltimore symbol, will set up shop in a 138,000-square-foot Medfield warehouse that is expected to be up and running by spring 2018. Aside from providing additional production areas, the new digs will also make way for Union Collective—an 87,000-square-foot makerspace adjacent to the brewery that will allow local creatives, nonprofits, and small businesses to produce and sell their products on site. 1700 W. 41st St.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

Crabs and Crushes at Wit & Wisdom: To complement the harborfront views at Wit on the Water—the trendy outdoor patio at Wit & Wisdom inside the Four Seasons Hotel—executive chef Zack Mills has crafted a special crab feast menu to be offered throughout the summer season. Snag one of the patio’s new picnic tables—which come complete with plenty of mallets and other crab-picking tools—to crack steamed crabs and sip signature cocktails (including a house frozen Orange Crush) while soaking up some sun this summer. In addition to the requisite Old Bay-steamed blue crabs, the new menu also includes spicy peel-and-eat shrimp, crispy soft shell crabs, and an array of seasonal sides. 200 International Drive. 410-576-5800

Origins: A Speakers Series: This monthly sustainability series returns to Artifact Coffee on Thursday, May 25 with a roundtable discussion on preserving, pickling, and fermenting. Cozy up in the restaurant’s private space to hear insight from Gordy’s Pickle Jar co-owners Sheila Fain and Sarah Gordon, Hex Ferments co-owners Meaghan and Shane Carpenter, and Lauren Sandler—the director of preservation at Foodshed. Following the panel, stick around for a family-style meal inspired by the evening’s topic of discussion. 1500 Union Ave., 410-235-1881, $60