If it’s simplicity, authenticity, and, especially, staying power you crave in your Indian neighborhood restaurant, head to Indigma Modern Indian Bistro in Mt. Vernon. Husband-and-wife owners Tony and Ann Chemmanoor have been feeding Mt. Vernonites for more than three decades now, despite having to relocate twice after two devastating fires. After an electrical fire damaged their North Charles Street property in 2017, it was unclear if they’d ever reopen.

But while Indigma was gone for nearly two years, it was far from forgotten, thanks, in part, to its curry-committed customers. At the suggestion of some neighbors, the owners reopened around the corner a few months ago on Cathedral Street when the space became available after Tavern on the Hill closed. With its jewel-toned dining room, eager-to-please staff, red roses that grace every table, and a menu of familiar favorites alongside reimagined takes on a centuries-old cuisine, Indigma is back—and as good as ever. The menu is divided into small plates, dishes from the clay oven, land, sea, garden, and chef’s creations—more fanciful interpretations such as lamb with winter melon and lentils. There’s also a wonderful selection of breads featuring several types of naan, including one stuffed with paneer that’s slightly tangy and tofu-like in texture, and a complimentary trio of chutneys.

After our first two small plates—refreshing lettuce wraps with minced cauliflower, green tomato, and coriander leaves, as well as fried cauliflower with roasted cashews—my husband and I were seated at a standard two-top but ordered too many dishes to fit comfortably at the table. As the dishes arrived in succession, we were asked if we’d like to relocate to a more spacious table. We deferred to our smiling server and made the move. “Enjoy your moment,” he said to us after artfully arranging them at the new table.

As we dug into a parade of mouthwatering dishes, the hits kept coming. We especially loved the fragrant and flavorful clay-oven chicken with eggplant, mustard seed, and makhani butter and cream sauce. We also adored the vegetable coconut korma, a colorful confetti of string beans, cauliflower, and peas afloat in a mildly spiced but richly flavorful sauce, which benefits from the addition of coconut milk and yogurt. During the course of the meal, there were so many niceties that occurred, from the unprompted free refills on the rice to fresh tableware that was replaced almost at the same time a knife was hitting the floor.

Midway through our meal, Chemmanoor visited our table to ask, “Is there anything we can improve?” (We couldn’t think of a thing.) While the location might be new, Chemmanoor has clearly honed his dishes over decades. On our way out, we overheard another patron say, “I’m so happy they’re back.”

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INDIGMA BISTRO 900 Cathedral St., 443-449-6483. HOURS: Sun. noon-3 p.m., 5-10 p.m.; Tues.-Thurs. 11:30-2:30 p.m., 5-10 p.m.; Fri. 11:30-2:30 p.m., 5-11 p.m.; Sat. noon-3 p.m., 5-11 p.m. PRICES: Appetizers: $4-8; entrees: $16-26, desserts: $7-8. AMBIANCE: Casual.

COMING SOON

818 Market: This Catonsville grocery store is shaping up to be one of the neighborhood’s most anticipated openings of 2019. The hybrid concept on Frederick Road will not only feature locally sourced coffee, cheese, flowers, deli meats, and produce in its retail store, but it will also operate its own restaurant upstairs with dishes by executive chef Matt Milani—who previously owned The Rumor Mill in Ellicott City. The opening is still a few months away, but, in the meantime, 818 owners Patrick Baldwin and Dan Zakai are continuing to offer various catering and pop-up services to engage with the community. 818 Frederick Rd., Catonsville

Conrad’s Seafood Expanding to Abingdon: Harford County locals will no longer need to make the drive to Perry Hall to crack crabs at this seafood staple. Brothers Chris and Anthony Conrad have announced plans to expand the family business north with a new location in Abingdon. Expected to debut this spring, the restaurant will take over the former home of OC Brewing Co. in the Boulevard at Box Hill Shopping Center. Diners can expect Conrad’s signature Eastern Shore favorites (everything from crab cakes to oysters to steamed gulf shrimp) alongside West Coast-inspired burgers and sushi—a nod to Chris’ time spent in California. 3414 Merchant Blvd., Abingdon

OPEN

Indigma: Nearly two years after an electrical fire forced Indigma to close, the Indian staple has finally reopened its doors in Mt. Vernon. Now operating in the former home of Tavern on the Hill on Cathedral Street, the new iteration features a bistro feel with a slightly smaller menu and full bar highlighting beer, wine, and exotic martinis. Husband-and-wife owners Tony and Ann Chemmanoor are looking forward to serving old favorites, including the acorn squash curry, alongside modernized dishes like grilled bison and crab-stuffed naan breadsticks. The restaurant is now open for dinner service—but the owners are open to reintroducing Indigma’s fan-favorite lunch buffet in the coming weeks. “To me, it feels like a homecoming,” Tony tells us. “The whole dining room sitting, laughing, drinking, and having a good time, you can’t replace that feeling with anything else.” 900 Cathedral St. 443-449-6483

CH-CH CHANGES

Grind House Juice Bar: Locals looking to kick off the New Year with refreshing juices and smoothies at Grind House in Charles Village will have to look elsewhere for the time being. The healthful spot recently closed temporarily for renovations. “After six-and-a-half years, it’s time for a reboot,” the shop’s owners recently posted to Instagram. “We’ll return in the spring refreshed and revitalized to better serve our community.” The post goes on to thank regulars for all of their support. Come spring, Grind House will be back up and running featuring its vegan eats, fresh-pressed juices, and smoothies in varieties including “Berry Blast” and “Mean Green” with spinach and mango. 2431 St. Paul St. 410-366-2441

NEWS

Sagamore Pendry Debuts Champagne Vending Machine: To ring in the new year with proper bougie style, the Sagamore Pendry Hotel will debut its very own Möet & Chandon champagne vending machine on December 31—one of only 12 in the country. The brut and rosé dispenser includes 320 Champagne minis and will be located in the Pendry’s open-air courtyard. The machine only accepts golden tokens, which are available for purchase at the hotel for $25. To celebrate its arrival, the Pendry has also added three golden bottles that are redeemable for special amenities at the hotel. 1715 Thames St.

SHUT

Brew House No. 16: The days are officially numbered for this Mt. Vernon brewpub. After being on the market for more than a year, the spot will close its doors for good on December 30. “It’s a long story with a story ending: we’re closing,” the owners recently told the Baltimore Business Journal. The restaurant and small-batch brewery debuted inside the historic fire house on the corner of Calvert and Read Streets in 2014, and quickly became known for its burgers and beers. To celebrate its run, Brew House will be offering $4 drafts to all patrons throughout the end of the year. 831 N. Calvert St.

Greetings & Readings: Next month will be the last for shoppers to sample the Maryland-themed treats, candies, and gourmet chocolates at this 49-year-old mainstay in the Hunt Valley Towne Centre. The family-owned gift and bookstore, which was founded in Loch Raven by matriarch Phyllis Baum, is offering 25-50 percent off all merchandise throughout its official closing on Sunday, January 20.

The owners recently announced that, after exploring many avenues, they came to the realization their shop is no longer sustainable in the current retail environment. “We have worked with brokers to secure a possible buyer or merger, but that did not yield any interest,” president Steven Baum said in a statement. “Our family has continued to put personal money into this business—but there comes a point where you need to make the hard, but inevitable, decision to close the doors.”

A message posted to the store’s Facebook page reiterates how much the owners appreciate the community’s support throughout the years. “We are most grateful for the opportunity to serve you with the important events in your lives,” the post reads. “We will miss the thousands of friends and employees who have made this dream possible.” 118-AA Shawan Rd., Cockeysville. 410-771-3022

For husband-and-wife restaurateurs Tony and Ann Chemmanoor, Mt. Vernon has always felt like home. The duo opened their first Indian restaurant, Bombay Grill, in the neighborhood in 1988, and debuted one of their many spin-offs, Indigma, on North Charles Street nearly 20 years later.

“We had restaurants all over Maryland at one point, but we always came back to Mt. Vernon because that’s where we started,” Tony says. “Our hearts have always been there.”

They say that the historical nature of the community, mixed with its diverse arts and culture attractions, have made it a great place to operate throughout the years. But, above all, the supportive neighbors are what they value most. As Ann puts it: “Mt. Vernon has such a good feeling of togetherness.”

Over the years, the community has helped Indigma through tough times. First, in 2010, when the space suffered a fire and had to relocate across the street. Last year, Tony and Ann decided to close Indigma due to ongoing repairs after another fire, and it was their Mt. Vernon neighbors who suggested that they take over the old Tavern on the Hill space around the corner.

“We kept running into some of our customers who were saying, ‘Oh my goodness, we’re having this withdrawal from Indigma,’” Ann says, with a laugh. “We’re really thankful for those people who have always been cheering us on.”

The couple liked that the Cathedral Street building wasn’t far from Indigma’s former home, and were enthusiastic about the large windows, outdoor patio, sidewalk seating, adjacent herb garden, and public parking lot across the street. Now, they are putting the finishing touches on the renovated space—where Indigma is expected to reopen within the next two weeks.

In its new chapter, the restaurant will have more of a bistro feel. A slightly smaller menu will list some of the old favorites, including lamb shank masala and acorn squash curry, alongside modernized dishes like grilled bison and naan breadsticks stuffed with crab.

“We’ve taken a little turn toward a bistro with a really casual, friendly atmosphere,” Tony explains. “The menu will reflect that. It will be all of the same flavors you get in authentic Indian food, but in more innovative dishes.”

Though the food will be familiar to Mt. Vernon diners, there’s a chance that old Tavern on the Hill regulars might not recognize the former breakfast-all-day spot when they first walk in. The partially open kitchen is now closed off, and the owners have built a new bar area—which will offer Indian beer, wine, and exotic martinis—near the main entrance.

When revamping the interior, Tony and Ann made it a priority to pay homage to the late Ted Pearson of Rita St. Clair Associates, who designed the former Indigma space but, sadly, passed away last spring. In keeping with Pearson’s vision, the 85-seat restaurant will feature vibrant saffron and curry colors, as well as repurposed wood carvings and cultural artifacts from the old Indigma space.

“He had this wonderful, artistic mind,” Ann says of Pearson “We wanted to keep the same colors as a way to pay tribute to his eye.”

During the first few weeks, the restaurant will only offer dinner service. But the owners are open to reintroducing Indigma’s popular lunch buffet once the spot gets up and running in its new home. They say it all depends on what their customers want.

“To me, it feels like a homecoming,” Tony says. “It’s all of our old friends coming back to see us again. The whole dining room sitting, laughing, drinking, and having a good time—you can’t replace that feeling with anything else.”

OPEN

Tersiguel’s French Country Restaurant: We’re constantly inspired by the resilience of this French fine-dining den on Main Street in Ellicott City—which has endured a fire and three floods since opening in 1975. This week, the restaurant persevered yet again. After three months of rebuilding since the tragic flood on Memorial Day Weekend, husband-and-wife owners Michel and Angie Tersiguel officially reopened their restaurant earlier this week. “Nothing can stop us,” the owners posted to Facebook after the flood. “Our hearts are heavy, the road ahead is paved with blood, sweat, and tears, but it’s familiar territory, one we have traveled many times. And we will continue to do so.” Tersiguel’s reopening comes on the heels of Howard County executive Allan Kittleman’s announcement of a $50 million five-year flood mitigation plan—which will demolish 10 properties on the lower half of Main Street. See more recent reopening updates here. 8293 Main St., Ellicott City. 410-465-4004

COMING SOON

The Greener Kitchen: Pigtown will welcome this vegan worker-owned collective to its dining scene next month. Formerly known as PEP Foods Inc., The Greener Kitchen fulfills its wholesome mission by providing catering services and distributing its plant-based products to vegan restaurants in the area. In addition to boasting plenty of commercial kitchen space for other dairy-free purveyors, the new headquarters off of Washington Boulevard will also operate as a one-stop-shop for vegan groceries. Be on the lookout for dairy-free cheeses, marinated proteins, seitan and deli slices, sauces and dips, and an array of prepared foods to grab on the go. 803 Washington Blvd. 443-929-3706

Indigma: Mt. Vernon locals were saddened when this neighborhood mainstay—known for its classic Indian dishes and filling lunch buffet—shuttered its doors suddenly last year. But now, there is a possibility that Indigma could be making a comeback in the neighborhood. A sign posted to door of the old Tavern on the Hill space at 900 Cathedral Street indicates that Indigma owners Christina Martija and Tony Chemmanoor are requesting to obtain a liquor license for the space. Though nothing has been set in stone as of yet, diners are holding out hope that Indigma’s samosas, curries, chutneys, and gulab jamun (deep-fried honey balls) will return very soon. 900 Cathedral St.

Milk & Honey Market: Speaking of comebacks, this former Mt. Vernon staple is returning with two locations in Station North and Pigtown in the coming months. Owners Ernst and Dana Valery closed their beloved market on Cathedral Street in 2016, and have since been working on a new cafe on the bottom floor of the Nelson Kohr apartment building in Station North. The duo recently told The Baltimore Sun that the store is expected to be finished this fall, and a second Milk & Honey location in Pigtown will follow soon after. The Pigtown iteration will be housed in the new Bath House Square project that the owners are developing on Washington Boulevard. Both locations are expected to offer the market’s signature breakfast sandwiches, paninis, soups, charcuterie boards, and coffees. 20 E. Lanvale St. and 906 Washington Blvd.

UNION COLLECTIVE UPDATES

Vent Coffee Roasters: Locals have enjoyed getting acquainted with Union Collective in Medfield this summer. The massive makerspace which you can spot from I-83, opened in June—debuting Union Craft Brewing’s new taproom and production facility, a state-of-the-art Earth Treks bouldering gym, and an ice cream factory from The Charmery. The latest tenant to join the pack is Vent Coffee Roasters, which opened in the space last weekend. Featuring sleek wood picnic tables and a roll-up garage door, the bright shop offers a full coffee and espresso bar from longtime barista Sarah Walker. Other highlights include nitro cold brews, Chemex and Aeropress offerings, teas, chocolate chip cookies, and other locally sourced pastries. Vent will be open from 7 a.m.-6 p.m. on weekdays and 8 a.m.-6 p.m. on weekends. 1700 W. 41 St.

Baltimore Spirits Company: On deck to open at Union Collective next month is this homegrown distillery, which was formerly headquartered in Remington. In conjunction with the grand opening of its production facility and tasting room at the Collective on September 15, Baltimore Whiskey Company has officially changed its name to Baltimore Spirits Company. The team hopes that the new name will better reflect the diversity of their products, which include gin, brandy, and amaro in addition to whiskey. Aside from providing more room to breathe, the new production space will use a custom geothermal system to sustainably distill award-winning spirits like Epoch Rye and Shot Tower Gin. “We can’t wait to show everyone what we’ve built over here,” co-founder Max Lents said in a statement. “We will certainly miss our old location on Sisson Street. It had a lot of character, but when people see our new space, they will understand how we’ve carried that character forward.” 1700 W. 41 St.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

8/31: Food Truck Rally at the Baltimore Museum of Industry
Kick off your long weekend with this foodie get-together to benefit There Goes My Hero, a nonprofit that works to improve the lives of blood cancer patients and their families. More than 15 local food trucks will be parked against the waterfront backdrop at the Baltimore Museum of Industry, serving everything from burgers and barbecue to tacos and ice cream. (Be on the lookout for favorites including Farm to Charm, Kommie Pig, The Smoking Swine, and Bistro Lunch Box.) Plus, enjoy family-friendly activities, sip beers from Heavy Seas, and dance to live tunes spun by DJ Neil Paul. Baltimore Museum of Industry, 5-9 p.m. Free admission.

9/4: Brewer’s Dinner with Dogfish Head at Rye Street Tavern
Rye Street Tavern in Port Covington is continuing its monthly Brewer’s Dinner series with a four-course meal that will pair each dish with a different Dogfish Head beer. Snag a seat on the restaurant’s lawn overlooking the Patapsco River to dig in to a bay scallop crudo with SeaQuench ale, smoked ricotta cappelletti paired with Punkin’ Ale (yes, it’s almost that time of year), a duo of beef with the Bitches Brew imperial stout, and a Hawaiian chocolate trifle with the Luau-luau IPA. 225 E. Cromwell St. 7-10 p.m. $85. 443-662-8000.

Editor’s note: Winter Restaurant Week has been extended until Sunday, January 29.

Local foodies might recall getting their hopes up for the kickoff weekend of Winter Restaurant Week last year, only to be disappointed by the massive storm that blanketed the city in more than two feet of snow.

Due to last year’s inclement weather, Downtown Partnership and Visit Baltimore are bringing back their annual Winter Restaurant Week promotion—January 13-22—one week early this season.

“This will be an experiment, but it’s a nice way to keep the holidays going,” says Michael Evitts, Downtown Partnership’s vice president of communications. “We’re always soliciting input from restaurants and looking for ways to make it better.”

Now celebrating its 12th run, the annual dining-out initiative aims to bring business to local eateries during a time of year when locals typically hunker down. More than 100 city spots, both old and new, are participating this time around, trotting out special prix-fixe menus to be offered throughout the 10-day culinary event.

Evitts says that the promotion will continue the new pricing guidelines that were adopted during Summer Restaurant Week last year. After feedback from diners, organizers are now allowing restaurants to choose within a range of $12-20 for two-course meals and $20-35 for three-course meals.

“Introducing the new flexible price point last summer was a trial balloon, but it worked out very well,” Evitts says. “It allows both higher-end restaurants and more affordable neighborhood spots to provide the most value for their patrons.”

Also new this year—organizers are encouraging eateries to add beer and wine pairings to their menus in order to give diners a more holistic culinary experience.

“Baltimore’s bar scene is at the top of its game,” Evitts says. “Dining out isn’t just about the food anymore. The mind of the consumer is changing to see that it can be just as much about the beverage pairings.”

Among the many spots returning for Winter Restaurant Week is Indigma, the Mt. Vernon mainstay known for its creative takes on classic Indian fare.

Chef/owner Tony Chemmanoor says that, although his neighborhood spot has been around for decades, he sees Restaurant Week as an ideal opportunity to demonstrate how the menu has changed with the times.

“We always get a lot of regulars who come in to support, but also a lot of new faces,” says Chemmanoor, who has participated in the promotion since it began. “It’s great for people who are looking to try something different.”

For lunch, Indigma will offer a special “thali”—a traditional Indian platter made up of eight small tasting dishes. The three-course dinner menu will highlight dishes such as vegan samosas, herbed chicken kabobs, fish vindaloo, vegetable masala, and authentic rice pudding. Chemmanoor is enthusiastic about the new wine pairing promotion, mentioning that each of the featured items will be accompanied by a different suggested international pour.

In Federal Hill, Restaurant Week veteran Liv2Eat is also gearing up to participate again.

“I’m religious about it,” says Cecilia Benalcazar, who co-owns the cozy dinner spot with her husband, chef Kevin Perry. “You can’t do it more than twice a year because it becomes anti-climactic, but it’s really great for people in suburban areas who need that catalyst to make the trip downtown.”

Benalcazar says that some of the well-received dishes on Liv2Eat’s New Year’s Eve prix-fixe will roll over to its three-course Restaurant Week menu, which will feature sunchoke-apple soup, roasted squash salad with kale and Allegheny chevre cheese, Wagyu beef carpaccio, black truffle gnocchi, mandarin panna cotta, and a chocolate torte.

While plenty of established dining destinations are returning, a number of newbies are also getting involved for the first time this season.

Though a flood on the property prohibited Argosy Cafe, located inside the Munsey Building downtown, from partaking in its inaugural Winter Restaurant Week last year, owner James Shaffer says he’s excited to make up for lost time.

“On the restaurant side, it encourages us to push the envelope,” he says. “Less established places get the chance to really show what they can do.”

Argosy’s three-course dinner menu lists worldly options such as spicy shrimp and grit cakes, risotto balls with house-made marinara, duck leg with a bourbon-maple glaze, tahini-yogurt chicken with Israeli couscous, and basil pesto penne with spinach and tomatoes. In keeping with the café’s beer-centric bar program, Shaffer says he is looking forward pairing dishes with a variety of local brews like Diamondback Brewing’s Bamb Black IPA.

Mediterranean-influenced Twist, which recently joined the Fells Point dining scene, will also be getting in on the deal for the first time this year.

Chef/owner Jose Molina has participated in previous Restaurant Weeks at the other Twist locations in Washington, D.C., and he’s excited to see how the initiative catches on with diners in Fells Point. The eatery’s lunch and dinner menus will showcase dishes like braised lamb shank, Moroccan couscous, shakshouka, pumpkin gelato, and vanilla-infused crème brûlée.

Though the restaurant is BYOB, Molina plans to offer complimentary small pours of local beer and international wines to pair with the dishes.

“For us, the goal isn’t financial,” he says. “It’s more about bringing people from other neighborhoods and introducing our cuisine to different palates.”