If chef Greg Nalley hadn’t been diagnosed with cancer in 2001, we might not have Nalley Fresh, the local fast-casual chain known for its build-your-own salads, bowls, and wraps. His prognosis was bleak. Nalley, who was 40 at the time, had late-stage prostate cancer and was told by doctors at a Baltimore hospital he had missed the window of opportunity for surgery.

After another opinion, he decided to take a chance on a radical prostatectomy at GBMC, followed by 18 months of radiation. Nineteen years later, he is cancer-free and getting ready to open a new Nalley Fresh in Towson in March, his 11th store. “It was a tumultuous time,” recalls Nalley. “It gave me the strength and courage to do something challenging and adventurous.”

The Ruxton resident has come a long way from his small-town South Carolina roots, where he bounced around several colleges and worked for his father’s concrete pumping company. There was one constant: He liked being in the kitchen—and that’s where he found his passion. His grandmother, Ina, was his muse, though he points out that his mother was a good cook, too. “But it was my grandmother who got my creative juices flowing,” he says.

In true Southern fashion, Nalley remembers Sunday suppers with local, seasonal vegetables, cooked with ham hocks, black-eyed peas, biscuits, and coleslaw. He often helped Ina cook these sumptuous meals, using recipes from The New York Times and spiral-bound church cookbooks.

A family friend, Herman, often showed up for those dinners, and Nalley can still picture the older man layering each food on top of the other instead of leaving it in its own place on his plate. It’s a memory that inspired him to open his first Nalley Fresh in 2011 on East Baltimore Street. Admittedly, Chipotle was another influence.

But first came Harvest Table, a breakfast and lunch restaurant in Locust Point, which Nalley opened a year after his cancer diagnosis. “After the cancer thing, I was happy to have creative control,” Nalley says. He eventually started serving weekend brunch in addition to the sandwiches and made-from-scratch soups he offered during the week. He whipped up creative dishes like pancakes piled with shredded chicken, pear salsa, and crème fraiche, or biscuit halves stacked with grits, scrambled eggs, and smoked maple bacon. “I went back to my days of Herman and South Carolina and started making layered dishes,” he says. “I loved the yin-yang flavors.”

Nalley first arrived in Baltimore in 1991. By the time he turned 30, he realized he needed to follow his cooking instincts, and so he went north to pursue his chef credentials at the now-closed culinary school Baltimore International College. He was one of the older students, but they accepted his college credits, and that was all he needed to make the move. “Man, I really got to do this,” he thought. “I sold my house and gave my dog away.” Soon enough, he found his stride.

Around this time, he also found his future wife, Amy, in Atlanta, through a mutual friend. The two continued a long-distance relationship until Nalley graduated from BIC and they were married. “I’m not a foodie at all,” Amy says with a laugh. “I’m a candy eater.”

The Nalleys, who now have three adult children, live near Towson with their two dogs: Oliver, a friendly mutt, and Gunner, an aloof black Labrador retriever. “A typical blue blood,” Greg jokes.

Between the attached garage and main house is his “flavor lab,” where he conjures up new ideas for Nalley Fresh. The cozy brick anteroom is filled with racks of spices—mason jars with gumbo filé, the Ethiopian mix berbere, sumac, wasabi powder—as well as cold cases toting preserved lemons, and shelves of cooking accessories, including an Instant Pot, Nalley’s favorite appliance. He captures his thoughts on a white board. “The place doesn’t have customers and employees and a time clock,” he says. “It’s just music and me.”

On a recent weekday, Nalley—whose gray hair bolts up in Guy Fieri fashion—talks about his plans to introduce a new ingredient to the stores every week and has jotted down combinations for salad dressings: cranberry-citrus and honey-lemon-thyme. He’s also thinking about offering afternoon snacks, maybe cheese platters and fruit cups. “The challenge is, ‘Can I make it with healthy components and still make it taste good?’” he ponders.

His knife collection, lined up like scalpels in an operating room, calls for attention and includes a roughly made blade that belonged to his great-grandfather and another one dating to 1905. It was given to him when he left a 10-year stint as executive chef at the Maryland Jockey Club in the ’90s. “A lot of prime rib has been cut with this,” he says, wielding the aged cutlery.

Before that, Nalley also sharpened his skills at the Turf Valley Resort in Ellicott City in his novice cooking days, mastering kitchen stations like prep, broiler, and sauté. But he knew early on that he wasn’t interested in working at a fine-dining establishment long term. “I wanted to have a family and be there for soccer,” he says. “I didn’t want to work nights.”

Nalley relies on several books in the flavor lab for inspiration, including his grandmother’s well-used Woman’s Club Cook Book, published in North Carolina, and Kitchen Confidential by Anthony Bourdain. He devoured the late chef’s restaurant tales in two days when he first read it. “It rocked my world,” he says. “It’s about flawed people who find their way in the culinary world.” This particularly resonated with Nalley, a recovering alcoholic. “I had a chance to find my way.”

Around the room are several other knickknacks. A photo of him with a just-caught mahi-mahi captures a fishing hobby he’s enjoyed since he was a kid. A blackboard is neatly printed with the words: “Welcome Food Network . . . Chopped!” He was a contestant on the show in 2016, winning his first round before being eliminated in the second challenge. “The experience was just enough,” says Nalley, explaining that he was also dealing with Lyme disease at the time.

None of his children are pursuing cooking careers—Devon, 25, is a nurse; Grace, 23, a fashion stylist; and Cooper, 21, an undergraduate student. But it was the kids who dragged their dad to Chipotle when they were younger and paved the way for the Nalley Fresh concept. “I was fascinated with the point-and-pick system,” Nalley says. “I thought I could do the same thing with an international flavor profile and a healthy twist, keeping in mind that I could make picky people happy.”

Soon, Nalley Fresh was born, giving customers a dazzling array of ingredients to choose from, including proteins like Old Bay shrimp, herb-roasted salmon, and tofu, to make their salads, wraps, or bowls. Some patrons didn’t quite understand the process when the first store opened downtown. “One guy ordered pastrami on rye,” Nalley says, chuckling. “I explained what we do; you customize your order. It was a learning curve for both of us.” Soon, there was a line out the door, even in winter, and he realized he was “onto something.”

Hunt Valley was the next location in 2012. After that, Nalley partnered with Phil and Brad Hoag, who were local Burger King franchisees. The father-son duo was looking for another investment and liked what he was doing, says Nalley. They now have a licensing agreement, not a franchise deal.

“I knew my limitations,” Nalley says about the collaboration. “I’m a gut guy …They brought instant credibility to my brand.” The partnership, which opened six locations, also allowed Nalley to get back in the kitchen, developing most of the recipes himself.

In total, Nalley Fresh now has 11 stores across Baltimore and Maryland. Some are open for lunch and dinner daily while others offer breakfast and lunch, or just lunch during the week. His newest location will be on West Pennsylvania Avenue in Towson. He is hoping to expand further still and is currently looking for new partnerships in other states.

Last year, a Nalley Fresh opened in Concourse A of the Baltimore-Washington International Thurgood Marshall Airport with daily hours from 4:30 a.m. to 11:30 p.m., his most round-the-clock location.

“I felt there was a need to have healthy, nutritious, delicious food there,” says Nalley, and after six months, the store had attracted 173,000 customers. He works with Toronto-based Firkin Group of Pubs at the airport and is planning to open other airport outposts with the restaurant company around the country.

Between planning for the future, creating recipes, and hanging out with his family, Nalley has to find time to relax, and these days, he does so by picking up the harmonica. He became enamored with the instrument when he and a friend heard a musician in a Virginia bar in the 1980s. “Afterward, I bought some harmonicas, eight-track tapes, and cassettes,” he says. “I listened to Muddy Waters over and over again.”

Nalley’s love of the blues has grown over the years, and if he gets a chance, he’ll sit in with various bands. Baltimore contributor Rafael Alvarez, also known for his Orlo & Leini stories, witnessed a performance during a road trip in 2018.

“Knowing that Greg loves the blues and Southern food, I invited him to go to Mississippi,” Alvarez says. “In Clarksdale, we hit a club called Red’s and walked into a show by a young man who calls himself Kingfish.” The guitarist-singer just so happens to be one of the fastest rising stars for the musical genre.

Nalley asked if he could play harmonica with him, and Kingfish agreed. “And blow, Nalley did,” Alvarez recalls. “I think he impressed the authentic bluesmen, who are probably used to white boys claiming they can play.” Of course, food also fueled their escapade. The pair feasted on crawfish and blood sausage along the way.

At this stage of his life, Nalley appreciates what he’s accomplished, crediting his 2001 diagnosis for giving him the courage. “I’ve been very fortunate,” he acknowledges. “I’ve been given third and fourth chances.”

He believes in giving others chances, too, hiring employees who are overcoming issues with drugs, alcohol, or the law, or who have special needs. “It’s challenging but gratifying,” he says. “I do it for me.”

COMING SOON

Papi Cuisine: Take one scroll through this caterer and private chef’s Instagram, and you’ll soon be salivating over the honey-glazed stuffed salmon, gooey mac-and-cheese, and baseball-sized crab cakes. The account has amassed nearly 140,000 followers, and soon, all of the acolytes will be able to stop into its new brick-and-mortar to sample the fare without having to pre order. Papi Cuisine—not to be confused with fellow Fells Point eatery Papi’s Tacos—is expected to open in the former home of Bad Decisions and Baltimore Built Bistro on Fleet Street later this summer. Chef Alex Perez, who currently operates out of Bmore Kitchen in Govans, and business partner Berry Clark plan to offer their signature Carribbean-fusion dishes like honey jerk turkey wings, seafood alfredo penne pasta, and Buffalo chicken burgers. Adding to the excitement, Perez also recently released an e-cookbook featuring some of his signature recipes.

Nalley Fresh: Workers surrounding the Court Towers office building in Towson will soon be able to add Nalley Fresh to their list of accessible dining options. Earlier this week, the local salad chain announced that it has signed a 10-year lease for a 2,300-square-foot cafe inside the Pennsylvania Avenue property. Come September, diners will be able to enjoy Nalley’s signature DIY salads and wraps, as well as a full breakfast menu—something unprecedented for the brand. The new spot marks the chain’s eleventh location in the Baltimore area.

Lew Gambino’s: The name of this refreshed concept taking shape in the former home of Ciao Bella in Little Italy is a nod to its operators—Ciao Bella brother-and-sister team Tony and Lisa Gambino, and former Raven Ray Lewis. Lewis has been a regular at the restaurant for more than a decade and was recently brought on as a partner as it starts a new chapter. While the restaurant remains open throughout the renovation process, a grand opening for Lew Gambino’s, which will emphasize Italian staples using local ingredients, is slated for August 26. Stay tuned for more details.

OPEN:

Atelier Culinaire: Speaking of Little Italy, this fine-dining destination staffed by culinary students at Stratford University reopened earlier this month. The spot took a hiatus throughout the spring and early summer, but is back up and running Wednesday through Friday nights with a new menu of seasonal dishes. Throughout the summer, the white-tablecloth spot, which is known as a launchpad for rising chefs, will feature options like fried green tomatoes with Sambal aioli, mango-roasted chicken, filet mignon, and pan-seared scallops with butternut squash purée.

Royal Farms Chicken: Although it’s not the full Royal Farms experience without a bustling convenience store or gas station attached, Cross Street Market is giving locals a taste of our favorite fried chicken with a new stall that debuted inside the renovated Federal Hill space last week. Of course, the menu features RoFo’s “World Famous” chicken boxes that come with western fries and a warm roll. But the spot also features crispy chicken tenders, sandwiches, and sliders. Royal Farms is the latest vendor to open inside Cross Street, which is also expected to debut Annoula’s Kitchen, Burger Bar, Pizza di Joey, and Sobeachy Haitian Cuisine by the end of the summer.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

7/25: Common Grounds
Head to Aveley Farms Coffee Roasters in Harbor East for the inaugural installment of this speaker series about where our food comes from. In the first discussion, Keffa Coffee founder Sam Demisse, Ceremony Coffee buyer Ashley Whelan, Paisa Coffee founder Yolima Toborda Rojas, and Aveley’s own Corey Voelkel will address coffee sourcing and sustainability. Voelkel has teamed up with the owners of Diamondback Brewing in Locust Point to co-host the event, which will offer attendees one free beer or coffee and plenty of snacks to munch on during the talk.

7/31: Breakfast for Dinner at Foraged
Sometimes the most important meal of the day, aka breakfast, can be eaten for dinner. That’s why next week, chef Chris Amendola is welcoming The Corner Pantry’s Neill Howell to Foraged in Hampden for an epic “brinner” mashup. Expect dishes like complimentary scones, a tomato tart, fried Sapidus oysters, cream chipped pork tongue, and offerings drizzled with Amendola’s house-made maple and black walnut syrups.

SHUT

Poké World/Utepia Tea: It appears that this downtown poké and bubble tea destination at Power Plant Live has closed for good. A sign taped to the front door earlier this week indicated that it had closed, and the phone line for the restaurant is currently disconnected. Luckily for poke lovers, Charm City has plenty of raw fish to go around—with other Hawaiian hotspots including Hilo inside R. House, Poké Bowl in Federal Hill, and Fod Poke Bar on Calvert Street.

OPEN

Papi’s Tacos Hampden: We’ve been patiently waiting for the day that we could finally move this one into the ‘open’ category. After weeks of delays, the owners of Papi’s Tacos in Fells Point have officially opened the doors to their new sister location on Falls Road in Hampden. The former home of longtime dive bar Dimitri’s Tavern has been transformed into a modern-industrial taqueria with wooden floors, strung lights, and colorful flowers. Diners in Hampden can now enjoy the same Mexican street food that they have come to know and love at the Fells Point flagship, including grilled elote, queso fundido, loaded quesadillas, and tacos al pastor. Of course, the bar will also be serving up massive margaritas in signature Papi’s flavors like prickly pear and cinnamon peach. 3820 Falls Road. 443-449-5796

Nalley Fresh: Don’t be surprised to see a familiar logo while strolling through Baltimore Washington Thurgood-Marshall International Airport (BWI) this summer. This fan-favorite local salad chain opened its latest location—marking its eleventh eatery in Maryland—in between Gates A and B earlier this week. Fuel up for your flight with Nalley’s signature DIY salads, wraps, and bowls made with a range of proteins and more than 100 toppings.

COMING SOON

The Bluebird Pub: This new extension of the Bluebird Cocktail Room in Hampden will official debut on Friday, May 10. Housed in the subterranean space below the bar that previously operated as European cafe Little Bird, the pub is expected to feel “handsome and familiar,” featuring walls lined with playful sketches of speakeasy bartenders that date back to 1932. With a strong emphasis on whiskey, the bar program will spotlight a signature Old Fashioned made with Old Grand-Dad bonded bourbon, a reliable Rusty Nail, and a barrel-aged Cachaça Sour shaken with lemon juice and sugarcane. Chefs Chance Jones and Bri White will serve up a menu of elevated pub fare to pair with all of the drinks. Be on the lookout for a foie gras burger, vegetarian broccoli sandwich with lemon aioli, and French toast with cherry cream cheese during brunch. 3600 Hickory Ave. 667-303-3263

Twisted Teahouse: In other Hampden news, local baker Angela Vogel will officially cut the ribbon at this new teahouse on the Avenue on Wednesday, May 8. It won’t be long before the bright blue storefront becomes a go-to for private tea parties, fair-trade teas, organic coffees, and custom cakes. The traditional tearoom will also offer fresh-baked scones, vegan pastries, and specialty sweets like banana rum crunch cupcakes. The spot is a spinoff of the original Twisted Teahouse, a tea parlor and consignment shop that Vogel previously operated inside the historic Savage Mill complex in Howard County. 813 W. 36th St. 410-991-2776

CH-CH CHANGES

Indochine: Mt. Vernon locals might have noticed a sign posted to the door of this Vietnamese eatery last week, in which owners Amy Nguyen and Alawi Akbar announced that they had sold Indochine. “Mt. Vernon welcomed my family with open arms and for that I will be forever grateful,” Akbar wrote in the message. “We have developed many friendships and loyal customers over the years, but the time has come for me to take a little break and devote some time to my family.” A new team is expected to reopen the shop under the same name with a similar menu (think pho, banh mi sandwiches, and crispy spring rolls) on Friday, May 2. There’s also a happy ending in store for Nyugen and Akbar, who are planning to open a new location in Patterson Park called IndoViet this November. Stay tuned for more details. 1015 N. Charles St. 410-539-4636

NEWS

The Elephant: Speaking of happy endings, this Mt. Vernon gem got one earlier this week. After a drawn-out saga between the owners and an investor who took legal action to seize the building, the team has confirmed that The Elephant is in it for the long haul. Crediting “strong and strategic legal representation” and “an outpouring of support from guests and the community,” the owners have resolved the conflict and reopened the historic mansion for dinner service Tuesday-Saturday. “We are so excited that we will continue to serve our cuisine and cocktails in this magnificent building,” the owners wrote in a statement.” 921 N. Charles St. 443-447-7878

Josh White Moves on to White Oak Hospitality: Local food lovers are still reeling from the loss of chef Josh White’s barbecue concept Smoke, which closed its doors in Cockeysville last month. But, luckily, White’s cooking will still be well within reach. The chef recently joined the team at White Oak Hospitality—the restaurant group behind Wayward Smokehouse, Bandito’s Bar + Kitchen, and 101 Baltimore in Federal Hill. It’s fortunate timing, as the team is also preparing to debut a second Wayward with an adjoining raw bar concept called The Curious Oyster in White Marsh this summer. In the meantime, head to Federal Hill to experience White’s innovative style showcased in new dishes like the korean cheesesteak at Wayward, and the “Hokey Poke” bowl at 101. “We’re ready to show Baltimore that Fed Hill isn’t just a bar scene anymore,” White said in a statement. “It’s a dining scene, as well.”

EPICUREAN EVENTS

5/2: Atwater’s 20th Anniversary
Back in 1999, this local cafe chain began as a small bakery making only one kind of bread. Now, 20 years, one big commissary kitchen, a farm, and six retail shops later, Atwater’s has grown into a Charm City staple. To celebrate its big birthday, all locations will be giving away free cupcakes while supplies last. Plus, the cafe is bringing back one of its first-ever breads, the sunflower flax loaf, at its original price of $2.50 for one day only. Multiple locations including 3601 Boston St. 667-309-7146

5/3-5: Sandlot Grand Opening Weekend

Baltimore’s beach makes its big return this weekend with plenty of festivities to kick off its third season in style. Head to Harbor Point on Friday night to watch the sunset while dancing to live tunes spun by DJ Sean. On Saturday, play some Splash City Golfwhile listening to the soulful sounds of Funsho performing from 6-9 p.m. And on Sunday, Sandlot will host a Cinco de Mayo fiesta with salsa lessons, Barr Hill gin and tonics, and a swing combo salsa band from 2-5 p.m. Throughout the weekend, stop by the shipping containers-turned-kitchens to stock up on summer snacks like soft pretzels, chicken wings, nachos, and eats on a stick. 1000 Wills St.