If you’ve always considered yourself the Grim Reaper of plants, we’ve got good news—you’re not alone. But the secret to having a plentiful backyard isn’t always being born with a green thumb. Instead, Carrie Engel, retail greenhouse manager at Valley View Farms, suggests adhering to the following formula: “Right plant, right place—and like what you’re doing.”

And Robert Jenkins, nursery manager at Herring Run Nursery, says a little maintenance can go a long way—prep the soil, add compost, and water regularly for the first few months. “Beyond that, you just sit there and watch Mother Nature do what Mother Nature is supposed to do,” he says. Engel also suggests simply walking around your yard. “The people who are successful, they’re the ones who go out in the morning with a cup of coffee and see what’s going on.”

Here are 14 plants that will be really hard for you to kill.

SPRING BLOSSOMS

Woodland phlox: This is a native plant with fragrant, soft-colored petals. “I think it’s one of the most attractive spring-blooming shade plants there is,” Jenkins says. Once established, it becomes a low-maintenance perennial.

Moss phlox: A fun, tolerant, and straightforward bloom, moss phlox is available in many different colors. A low-growing groundcover, it will thrive in sunny spots and present semi-evergreen foliage throughout the season.

Virginia bluebells: While this early native bloomer is quick to come and go, its spectacular color has earned it the top spot among many experts, including Jenkins. Buds fill shady garden floors then gracefully disappear until next year.

SUMMER STARS

Black-eyed Susans: Maryland’s state flower is as tough as it is cheerful. Engel says it’s a “wonderful native [but] a later bloomer” that is drought-tolerant and pollinator-friendly.

Foamflower: If you’re searching for a native groundcover alternative to pachysandra—considered invasive by many—check out foamflower. Known for its white flowers, it makes for a great filler in shady woodland spaces.

Goldenrod: These bright yellow, deer-resistant native wildflowers are an underrated late-summer standout. Jenkins calls it, “One of the best plants to have in your garden” for fall pollinator support.

Mountain Mints: Plentiful but valuable, Jenkins says that “mountain mints are great for pollinator support in the summertime” and thrive in Maryland soil. Mountain mint smells more sharply than traditional mint and is usually grown to attract bees and butterflies.

RIPE VEGGIES

Green Beans: “Beans are very easy,” Engel says. Just be sure to harvest frequently to encourage more production. Planted from seed, expect to see direct results within a matter of weeks.

Radishes: “If you have kids who are wanting to get into gardening a little bit, plant a radish seed,” Engel says. In about 21 days, they should be ready to be pulled right out of the ground.

Kale & other cool-season greens: The base for many salads requires little preparation. Planting greens in the cooler weather will ensure a more reliable crop. “Don’t try to plant broccoli in the summertime,”  Engel cautions.

Bush (Determinate) Tomatoes: Engel recommends full-sun, compact bush tomatoes for beginners. They’re easier to manage than the towering alternatives and produce most of their tomatoes at once.

NON-NEEDY HERBS

Oregano: Once established, oregano shrugs off high heat and inconsistent watering, making it ideal for beginners. As a bonus, you will have made the perfect addition to any pizza or pasta.

Lavender: A calming fragrance is just one of the countless benefits of planting lavender. In order to improve success, it requires plenty of drainage, a sunny spot, and minimal fertilizer.

Mint: Mint is one plant that is nearly indestructible. Plant in pots unless you’re prepared for it to spread—it’s perfect for patios.

If your houseplant-filled living room is starting to feel more like a jungle or the seed-starting setup in your basement is too cramped, it might be time to consider a home greenhouse. But before clearing out your backyard, it’s important to think about what type of gardener you are so you can choose the perfect fit.

First, do your research. An average home greenhouse is around 8×10 feet, but garden experts suggest going bigger than you think—you’ll be surprised at how quickly the space fills up. For beginners, pre-built greenhouses are the way to go. Stores like The Barnyard on York Road sell standard poly paneled greenhouses of all sizes. You can even customize them by adding windows or some extra height. If you want to use your greenhouse during the colder months, you’ll need to buy a portable heater or two.

If you’re searching for a more unique greenhouse, consider secondhand shops. Mariah Gillis, an Idlewylde resident, purchased an old solarium at Second Chance and turned it into an oasis for tropical houseplants.

“It’s like having 142 square feet of Costa Rica next to my house,” she says. “You just kind of go out and explore and find new things.”

If aesthetics are your priority, a vintage greenhouse is a great choice, but be prepared to spend more on repairs and upgrades to make it gardening-ready.

Once you’ve purchased your greenhouse, it’s time to fill it. For serious home gardeners, it’s a great place to “start” seeds, which is the process of germinating seeds in a protected environment before planting them outdoors. In a warm, enclosed greenhouse, you can plant as early as six to eight weeks before the last frost date, extending your harvest and giving you fresh produce nearly year-round.

After years of starting seeds in her Monkton basement, Lila Shapiro-Cyr upgraded to a pre-built backyard greenhouse she uses all year. “It’s just nice to be out in nature,” she says. “Particularly when it’s cold out, it’s really a nice kind of escape.”

While tomatoes are her favorite thing to grow, other produce, like eggplant, peppers, kale, and lettuce, also thrive.

If produce isn’t your main interest, you might want to grow houseplants or florals for cut flowers. In Gillis’ greenhouse, the result is a peaceful retreat. “I love the surprise when I just let things go wild,” she says. “I always joke that it’s sort of like Jurassic Park.”

You can check out local shops like The Little Greenhouse, B.Willow, and Waverly Ace Hardware to find a wide selection of tropical ferns and orchids. But you’ll need to do a little research before diving in.

Alexia Leeser, the Home Horticulture and Master Gardener coordinator at University of Maryland Extension Baltimore County, stresses “right plant, right place” for new greenhouse owners.

“If you put a plant in an environment where it’s not going to thrive, you’re setting it up for failure,” she explains.

Her advice? Do research beforehand, know what conditions your plants like, do soil tests, and ask for help. If you’re still struggling, submit gardening questions and photos to UMD’s Ask Extension line, where experts respond within 48 hours, free of charge.

For many, gardening isn’t just about the plants—it’s a way to escape the outside world.

“We live in challenging times,” Shapiro-Cyr says. “It’s nice to have a hobby that is good for your mental health.”

March is always a good time to start thinking about outdoor spring cleanup. Yes, it’s usually still cold, but the promise of spring is in the air.

As gardeners start making their to-do list, they need to keep in mind it’s not as simple as weeding and calling it a day. Conscientious planters should also be considering the ecosystem around their yards.

Often the first instinct is to purge and start fresh—but Cianna Rowe, nursery manager at Lauren’s Garden Service in Howard County, urges folks to leave the leaves.

“It’s this huge movement right now and there’s many reasons why you should do it,” she says.

Not only do insects and herbivores eat them, but as leaves decompose, especially those wet from rain, they create more soil.

Rowe knows keeping all the leaves can be challenging, so she suggests leaving as many as possible in the yard and taking the rest to places like the Howard County Landfill that lets people drop off yard trimmings to be turned into compost and mulch. Baltimore County also allows many types of yard and garden materials to be composted in bins or specific bags.

She also suggests leaving old flower heads around as a source of seeds for the birds—and bonus, it also means spending less on bird seeds.

Mulch is another area to focus on during spring cleaning. There are ways to make mulch truly work as a habitat. Rowe suggests “planting green mulch.” That’s what she calls native species that grow very low to the ground and help the soil from drying out.

Native violets, native strawberries, and Carex species, a distant relative of the grass family, are good green mulches to create an environment where flower beds aren’t set against wood chips, but leafy greens. They make the soil looser and give burrowing pollinators—like the friendly cousin of the honeybee, the ground nesting bee—the opportunity to set up pollen shop in anticipation of spring flowers.

But planting and letting green mulch grow can take a while, so in the meantime loosening existing mulch is the next best thing to help these pollinators, as well as using only dye-free mulch in the beds. Often the dyed or “colored” mulch makes it harder for the mulch to break down, and the wood used in traditional mulch is often taken from broken wooden pallets, old decking, and even ships, so the wood could still have residue of harsher chemicals from its previous life.

Since relocating pollinators, birds, and other helpful creatures back into gardens after winter can take time, Rowe recommends some other ways to get a garden back on track. Some non-native plants like garlic mustard—look for its heart-shaped leaves and small white flowers—can change the soil composition, so weeding them out is a must.

Rowe also suggests while trimming hedges or shrubs, be careful of bird nests—even if they’re empty, some other bird might move in.

By prioritizing habitat-friendly practices, gardens can quickly become a haven for local animals. Rowe says,

“Getting to see immediate success of either something making a nest…or [animals] eating the berries, that’s usually the encouragement people need to keep planting native.”

In 2011, when a pregnant Molly Burger moved into her current home in Canton, she was thrilled to have a rooftop deck. But fearing that it posed a safety hazard for her little ones (her older son Henry was almost two at the time), she had wooden crates installed along its edges as a buffer. After she filled them with soil, they became container gardens—and have served her family well since.

“Part of the reason my husband and I moved here is that we didn’t want to spend our time on weekends doing lawn care,” explains Burger, who has always lived in cities, and thinks potted plants are “just enough.”

She fills her rooftop beds with plants like aster, which blooms purple in the fall. Beneath her kitchen window, planters add some privacy from neighbors. And outside of Burger’s office window, potted black-eyed Susan on the sidewalk provides a pick-me-up.

“They brighten up my street,” she says, noting that her son, Calvin, 11, helps with harvesting and watering. “For me, with younger kids, container gardening is perfect.”

And for many others living in small spaces, or who want the benefit of plants without the hours of work, it can be the next best thing to more traditional dirt digging, says Elizabeth Heubeck, a certified master gardener through the University of Maryland Extension.

Her first piece of advice is to make sure you know the needs of each plant before combining them within one pot.

“Two plants might look great together, but if one is going to require watering every day and the other one is prone to mold and mildew if it gets too much water, you want to rethink that,” says Heubeck, who’s known as the Gaywood Gardener.

Next, when looking at aesthetics, Heubeck likes to use the “thriller, filler, spiller” method. “The thriller offers height, the filler [occupies] the space in between, and the spiller might drape over the container in a trail or cascade,” she says.

And often the most important part of container gardening is, well, the container. “You don’t want to get a heavy container that you won’t be able to move or that is prone tocracking,” says Heubeck. That includes clay pots, which can be delicate. Alternatives like resin are both durable and lightweight.

One rule all gardeners should follow is waiting to start planting until after Mother’s Day, usually the last frost date. After that, the only other steadfast guideline is using potting soil, says Heubeck. “You want your soil to be porous, since the water won’t have anywhere to go except the drainage hole on the bottom [of the pot].”

Much like Burger, Heubeck loves the tranquility and calm that comes from building a container. “You’re sweaty and covered in dirt,” she laughs, “but it’s so peaceful, patting down the soil and putting plants together.”

Want to have a vegetable garden without all the, you know, tending to soil and seeds on your hands and knees? Have we got a fungus for you! Yup, starting with just a small hunk of fortified sawdust, one can grow close to a pound of fresh mushrooms without ever setting foot outside.

It might sound too good to be true, but therein lies the draw of at-home mushroom cultivation, a trend that’s getting more than its fair share of buzz.

“We saw a lot of people, during the pandemic especially, who were stuck at home and just wanted something fun to do—something to watch,” says Courtney Cohen, owner of Spore and Seed, a fresh-cut flower and mushroom farm located in Baltimore County. “[Mushroom grow kits] are great if you don’t have access to a gardening space because you can do it indoors. They’re fun for people who are into cooking, kids love them, and it only takes a few weeks to get your final product.”

The process begins with a compacted grow (or fruiting) block that comes filled with mycelium (a root-like structure of shroom-producing agents known as hyphae) and ends in roughly four weeks with a pound of mushrooms.

Kits available on Amazon or at the farmers’ market will produce pink, brown, and yellow oyster blooms with fan-shaped caps, coveted and ridge-covered morels, and lion’s mane, a popular stand-in for meat in vegan cooking recipes. “We generally try to get people to start with oyster mushrooms because you really can’t mess them up,” Cohen says.

Another great alternative for beginners is the shiitake mushroom. “Shiitake are probably the heartiest mushrooms. You can get them and forget them,” says Jack Reitnauer, general manager at Warwick Mushroom Farms. Like Cohen, he stresses that humidity is vital when it comes to growing fungi, especially oyster variants.

“At the farm, we grow at about 62 degrees, about 84 percent humidity, and a CO2 level of about 2,000. At home, I would say the best bet is your basement.”

Cohen agrees, adding that snow oyster and Italian oyster mushrooms would do well in this environment. (Pink and yellow oysters tend to be more finicky and need a lot of heat.) However, be wary of crowding your basement with grow kits, she says.

“Mushrooms have these microscopic spores, and as they get into your lungs, they create a sludge,” she explains. But she reassures, “I wouldn’t worry about it if you’re just fruiting one or a few blocks in your space.”

Cohen says the bigger things to worry about are factors such as mold growth, excess moisture, and bacteria on the mushrooms. “A tiny red spot is usually a sign of some bacteria action,” Cohen says, adding that the blue or green-ish mold that’s often found growing on produce can easily be plucked off.

“Mold is basically a fungus in itself, so it’s nothing to freak out about,” she says. “Some people use peroxide to spot treat it, but it isn’t super common. We’ve hopefully given you something kind of foolproof.”

The next (and perhaps the hardest) part is being patient while your mushrooms work their magic, which takes one to several weeks. One growing block will typically yield a few good rounds of blooms—which Cohen says decrease in size by 25 percent with each collective growth, or “flush.”

And after the last tasty bits are harvested, by rotating and pulling very slowly, she tells people to “put them in your garden. We use spent blocks as compost for our farm, and we have oyster mushrooms growing in our flower beds all the time.” Heck, it might even get you to go outside.

Planting a tree is almost like giving birth. They start out really tiny, get bigger and bigger, branch out (literally), and hopefully begin to blossom. It’s a cool but daunting process. But where to begin?

“It’s important for people to think about the future when they think about trees,” says Leanna Powell of Blue Water Baltimore. The nonprofit organization, which aims to maintain and restore the health of local waterways, plants trees throughout the region’s watersheds—everywhere from schools and private institutions to streets and yards.

“Trees can affect the foundation of homes and sidewalks,” says Powell. “They require watering and maintenance and pruning. So we absolutely want people to plant trees and be well-prepared to take care of them [long term.]”

Once the hands-on, decades-long commitment has been established, you’re ready to start the tree-ownership process. But you’ll want to wait to plant until the timing is just right.

“Trees can be planted any time the ground is workable—that is, not frozen or too soggy,” explains Miri Talabac, a horticulture consultant with University of Maryland’s Home & Garden Information Center.

According to Powell, this means early spring, with finer soil and warmer weather for planting. But in Talabac’s opinion, autumn is also pretty ideal when it comes to tree planting. “Air temperatures are cooling, rains tend to be reliable, and the soil remains warm to support good root establishment.”

However, when purchasing a tree, it doesn’t hurt to get an early start. “Nurseries tend to begin stocking up on new supplies in March, so from the perspective of options, early spring is an excellent time to browse,” Talabac says.

Like Powell, she suggests prioritizing native species, such as oak and serviceberry, adding that for those who plan to plant multiple trees at once, diversity is key—particularly when it comes to navigating weather fluctuations. But beyond this—save for picking up important tools including round- tipped shovels, mulch, tarp, and hand cultivators for detangling roots—Talabac and Powell agree that choosing the right tree comes down to knowing the dynamics of the chosen planting space.

“One of the most important things to think about is how big this tree is going to get,” Powell says. “Also, how wet is your soil? How much sun or shade is this tree going to receive? Some species like sycamores love wet environments and low-lying land, where another tree might not do as well.”

Above all, Talabac advises newcomers to “do research and avoid impulse buying.” And when in doubt, Powell suggests attending volunteer tree-planting sessions, like the ones hosted by Blue Water Baltimore.

“You can plant a couple of trees in an hour, and that hour of your life will make a permanent difference,” says Powell. “Those trees will probably outlive you, and that’s an amazing thing.”

When it rains, it pours. At least that’s the case when it comes to Tony Lehman’s front yard in Idlewylde, a neighborhood just south of Towson.

A video taken by the University of Maryland psychiatrist several years back shows what looks to be a river running several inches deep through his lawn and driveway. It’s all stormwater.

“It was really quite extreme,” says Lehman.

In 2016, he sought the help of a contractor to remedy the flooding, which he says was caused by an inadequate neighborhood storm-drainage system. That didn’t go to plan. But Lehman wouldn’t need to look very far, as it turned out, to find a plan B.

His son, Jackson, had just received his master’s degree in landscaping and architecture, and at his suggestion, the father and son made plans to install a rain garden in Lehman’s front yard.

So, what’s a rain garden?

Also known as biometric retention facilities, rain gardens are depressed landscape areas filled with native perennials, flowers, and shrubs. Typically built on natural slopes—as was the case with Lehman’s property—and planted using natural or engineered soil, these structures are designed to collect and treat excess stormwater runoff from compacted lawn areas and water-tight surfaces such as rooftops and walkways.

In Lehman’s case, the new addition would need to accommodate the runoff from his carport and driveway—as well as that of his neighbor’s—so he and Jackson had their work cut out for them.

At the top of the garden, the pair installed two dry creek beds, which use rocks to drain excess stormwater flow. Inside, weirs, or low dams, were added, along with an absorbing mixture of clay, soil, and sand. With the addition of some native perennials and pollinators, the father-son rain garden project was complete.

And today? There’s a lot less flooding.

New bulbs have been planted in the yard for spring. And Lehman’s green thumb is, well, greener than ever, thanks to his son.

“I cringe a little bit now to think about some of the things I’ve done to plants be- fore I learned from him,” the dad says. “I feel very proud of him.”

While increasing in popularity because of ecological awareness, for now, rain gardens remain a rarity in this neck of the woods.

According to a survey by University of Maryland Extension service, a resource for farmers and gardeners, only 2.5 percent of state homeowners have one.

However, for those looking to fix their flooding, there are sources of information out there. Maryland Sea Grant Extension and Blue Water Baltimore can help with everything, from locating the best local contractors and specialists to finding an ideal place to put down a plot. But before you can do any serious dirt digging, you’ll need to grab a few tools to help you get started.

“One is a shovel,” says Tim McQuaid, the store manager and water garden manager at Valley View Farms, with a laugh. In addition to weed barrier fabric and stones for constructing dry riverbeds, McQuaid suggests corrugated piping or straight PVC pipe to act as the garden’s rain spouts. To amend the soil, he suggests mixing it with equal parts Leafgro compost.

Last but not least, get ready to pick out some plants—but, contrary to what you might guess, try not to choose too many tropicals.
For rain gardens, McQuaid suggests clumping plants, like Lobelia Cardinalis, which are native to Maryland.

“We are zone seven, and that’s important because, the further south you go, the higher the zone numbers are,” McQuaid says. “That means plants that are listed from zone seven and lower will survive in this environment.

As autumn temperatures creep into the region, many gardens go lifeless—but it doesn’t have to be that way. Hardy outdoor plants can brighten your yard and porches, as long as you pick the right ones for our sometimes fickle climate.

“There are plant materials specific to our zone that are meant for our funky cold-and-then-warm weather,” says Heather Wheatley, a certified professional horticulturist at Davidsonville’s Homestead Gardens. “In cold weather, some plants do particularly well, and they’re noticeable because there’s nothing else around, so they become the garden stars.”

Here’s a short list of some of your best
bets against a brown and dreary landscape:

Witch Hazel: With unusual wiry blooms of narrow-petaled flowers ranging from yellow to red and orange or even striking gold, this sweet-fragranced native small tree will add unique style and color to your garden.

Hellebores: Just needing a bit of shelter and sun to bloom in midwinter, these bell-cupped blossoms known as the German “snow rose” make the perfect winter flowers. They are resistant to frost, as well as deer and rabbits with the munchies.

Snowdrop: Looking just like they sound, these white bell-shaped flowers dangle from short delicate stems, adding the perfect cheerful- ness to your garden or pots. Even known for popping out through a layer of snow, the bulbed plant sends out a winter-defiant sweet fragrance.

Pansy: These delicate blossoms come in a multitude of colors. Just give them lots of nutrient-rich soil and shield them against frosts and winds by keeping them in a protected pot and planting them early enough to fully root.

Winterberry: Flowers aren’t the only colorful additions to a cold-weather garden—winterberries can brighten your landscape with a bit of vibrant red, as well as provide food for hungry birds.

Red Osier Dogwood: Adaptable to most soils, the bright and showy red or yellow bare stems of this rap- idly growing branch plant add the needed pop of color to your garden. Wheatley suggests cutting off some stems for home decorations.

Mahonia: This prickly plant is a hardy and attractive evergreen shrub with colors of bronzed, burgundy, or rich green holly-like leaves, depending on the season. Enjoy its bold-textured beauty of large spiny foliage and coarsely branched stems.

Japanese Silver Grass: The feathery plumes and graceful arching foliage of this tall ornamental grass will give your garden great movement and texture. “When the frost comes, they get encased like botanical statues—they become garden art,” says Wheatley.

Roses have been a garden classic throughout history—inspiring the ancient Greeks to cultivate its sweet aroma into some of the first perfumes and world-famous poets to use their allure as soulful metaphors for love.

And whether it’s your first or fifty-first planting season, most gardeners fancy this timeless flower for its everblooming beauty and scent. But building a healthy rose garden can have its frustrations: They’re prone to disease, munching bugs, and mildew.

So how to avoid that? We consulted Scott Carbone, nursery manager at Valley View Farms in Cockeysville, who suggested a few rose breeds that look lovely, are relatively resistant to diseases, and will add a summer flair to your garden. And yes, planting in July will work if the roses are established when you buy them and get lots of water to make it through hot days.

Color Cocktail
These shrub roses come in multicolored shades of pink, white, and yellow and are easy to grow in a garden or patio container. Make sure they are planted in a nice, sunny spot and watered weekly.

English Rose Climbers
These elegant David Austin flowers can be planted up against walls or gates to make any garden charming. However, their location means they will require frequent watering, since the soil in these areas tends to be drier.

Knock Outs
Carbone said these self-cleaning, low-maintenance roses are great for beginner gardeners. Be sure to plant these bushes in a sunny location where they have lots of space to grow. Soon enough, your garden will be full of vibrant magenta, white, and yellow blooms.

Julia Child
Named after the celebrity chef, these shrub roses are butter gold and smell like licorice candy. They need full sun and regular watering, especially in extreme heat.

Bonica
Who would believe these charming little pink flowers would be the toughest rose? Bonica are pretty easy to care for, but avoid rinsing the leaves when watering the shrub, and prune any dead wood as it appears.

First Prize
Although hybrid tea roses are not known for their disease resistance, this Jackson & Perkins rose is the exception. Their long, pointed buds open into splashes of pink atop green leathery leaves. Carbone says these flowers need to be watered from the base and recommends clearing away any debris to make sure they have good airflow.

If you’ve ever wondered while weeding your garden if there might be the makings of a good salad there, but you can’t tell a periwinkle from a purslane, the answer is yes.

And you’ve still got plenty of time to sample the natural vittles before the onset of Maryland’s famously mild winter.

While the raccoons and weevils are busy chewing through your “official” vegetable garden, consider this list of uninvited but edible, nutrient-rich plants that show up every year in our gardens and yards.

For starters, in botanical terms, there’s really no such thing as a weed: Everything we see out there is a wildflower and those you think of as weeds have merely escaped cultivation, often adapting to sprout everywhere, from roadside cracks to gutters and roof shingles.

Among the edible ones are dog violets, which are common in gardens where the soil is organic-rich and acidic. In undisturbed settings, you may end up with hundreds of these lilac-blue flowers. Both stems and flowers are edible, sour to the taste, and full of vitamin C.

Sour clover, or wood sorrel, produces small yellow flowers. Stems, leaves, and flowers are edible, tart, and also loaded with vitamin C.

Wild onions and chives often grow in small clusters on our lawns throughout the year, but disappear quickly if chemicals are applied. Part of the allium family, like garlic and scallions, they contain a potent and beneficial compound mostly derived from cysteine sulfoxides.

If you notice wild strawberries somewhere on your property, let them flourish. Although gritty, these sweet, miniature berries are rich in vitamin C.

Another on the list is ground-ivy, the leaves of which make a pungent tea with alleged medicinal qualities, but they’re for brewing only—don’t eat the leaves unless they’re the very young ones in the spring.

Purslane or portulaca, which is related to the moss rose, is a succulent, fleshy surface creeper. It sports small yellow flowers, and its stems and leaves are sour. They are rich in omega-3s, and have iron, too.

And then there’s the lowly dandelion, which is, without question, one of the most nutrient-rich plants available to us. In fact, you can eat the whole plant, but make sure to wash it first, since bugs like it, too. Some people roast the root, which is tough and bitter, to make a substitute for coffee. The plant is packed with vitamins such as A and K and has been used to detoxify the blood and help digestion.

So there you go: a lovely salad of “weeds”—just add a dash of vinegar and enjoy. And, good news, gardener: You got your weeding done in the process.