Soon after the owners of Papi’s Tacos opened the trendy taqueria in Fells Point four years ago, they knew they wanted to expand.

“We looked everywhere,” says Carrie Podles, who owns the restaurant with her sister and brother-in-law, Lori and Charlie Gjerde. The team also operates Wicked Sisters in Hampden, Alexander’s Tavern in Fells Point, and Huck’s American Craft in Brewers Hill.

“When we found the location for Huck’s in 2015, we loved it,” Podles says. “That was supposed to be another Papi’s, but we knew it wouldn’t work so close to Fells Point. We looked in Towson, Federal Hill, Howard County, and Anne Arundel County. Charlie was even trying to talk us into Pennsylvania at one point.”

After years of searching, the team has finally landed the perfect spot to launch a second Papi’s location—and it isn’t too far away from home. Come fall, a new iteration will open in the former home of Dimitri’s Tavern on Falls Road in Hampden. Conveniently, the freestanding building sits just across the street from Wicked Sisters.

“We’ll be able to kind of run back and forth and multi-manage,” Podles says with a laugh. “It’s a special little building that we think can be really great.”

The team has already begun gutting the space to shed its previous dive bar feel. Though the 115-seat layout will remain the same, the owners are redecorating the restaurant to mimic the Mexican street vibe at the Papi’s flagship. (Think exposed brick, strung lights, interior greenery, Mexican artwork, and lots of sugar skulls.) Outside, the building will feature an artsy brick façade and an outdoor patio pending permits.

“The theme is important to us,” Podles says. “The first Papi’s was kind of too small for us really to carry it out. Now, we really want to do it right.”

The street theme also carries over in the menu, which highlights authentic antojitos (small snacks), and build-your-own street tacos filled with everything from Mexican pork to marinated fish. The new space has a bigger kitchen, which Podles says will make it easy to expand the menu.

“We’re going to get a little more creative,” she says. “We’ll possibly throw some fajitas into the mix. We just want to have some fun and this will give us more room to experiment.”

Podles says that the owners have enjoyed getting to know the Hampden dining scene since they opened Wicked Sisters in 2016, and they’re looking forward to widening their footprint in the neighborhood with Papi’s.

“Hampden has such an electric vibe,” she says. “We like the fact that we’re going to build out that Falls Road corridor a bit and give people some more options if they want to bounce back and forth to different restaurants on and off The Avenue.”

Above all, Podles is looking forward to continuing the atmosphere of Papi’s, which has been a go-to hangout for Fells Point locals since it opened.

“It’s just this magical little place,” Podles says. “We can’t really put our finger on it but, from the day we opened, it’s just enchanted people. It means a lot to us that we can make people that happy.”

In honor of National Siblings Day, we rounded up Baltimore kin who own restaurants together. “It’s comforting working with someone you trust,” says Josh Sullivan, who co-owns Wet City with his older brother, PJ. “I’m proud of what we’ve accomplished together.”

Joshua, 40, & Stephanie, 43 Hershkovitz, co-owners of Hersh’s Pizza

Early Years: “I was a terror,” says Josh. “I was a bully to her, a crazy little kid who took out the brunt of my emotions on her—I sprained her arm once, I jump-kicked her in the back. But when she went to college and I started high school, we became the best of friends.” Big Little Brother: “We definitely fought, but not in a mean way,” says Stephanie. “It’s just that Josh was a little maniac. Josh is much bigger than me—he came out of the womb the size I was at 3.” Food, Glorious Food: “We are doing this because we love food,” says Josh. “When we have time off, our families go out and eat together.” Air Time: “What makes it work is that we are good at clearing the air,” says Josh.  “A lot of siblings who work together have these big blow-ups. We have a lot of laughs—we keep it light.” Sleep On It: “When Josh got twin beds in his room when we were kids, I’d sleep in his room,” says Stephanie, “but I’d sleep walk and sleep talk and pull all the covers off of him. After that, my mom prevented me from sleeping in his room.” Cutting Corners: “The way that my mom tells the story is that you could put Stephanie in the corner with a book for two hours and, two hours later, she’d still be reading the book,” says Josh. “You’d take Josh and put him in the corner for two hours, and two hours later, the corner would be gone.”

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Lori Gjerde, 47, and Carrie Podles, 44, co-owners of Wicked Sisters and Huck’s American Craft

Sister Act: “I’m much more quick-tempered and outspoken than she is,” says Lori. “I’m also much more of an abstract thinker.” Selling Out: “My sister always likes to remind me of the time that I sold all of her clothes at a consignment shop when she left for college,” says Lori. “I remember selling things—I just don’t remember them being her things!” Working It Out: “My dad probably went into shock looking down and seeing us working together,” says Carrie. “It would have made him happy.”

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PJ, 40, and Josh Sullivan, 35, co-owners of Wet City

United They Stand: “Even as children, we’ve always stuck together,” says PJ. “Occasionally, a neighborhood mother would say Josh was too young to tag along with my crew, so I’d have to say, ‘Either he comes, too, or neither of us go.’” Dirty Jobs: “PJ is very good at getting things done,” says Josh. “He’s good at building relationships and using his network. I prefer getting my hands dirty. In high school, while he was getting the neighborhood kids together for some adventure, I was maintaining my VW Bug or learning how to make grandma’s raviolis.” Living the Dream: “It’s been a dream of ours to open a bar/brew pub for ages,” says PJ. “It’s finally all coming together!”

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Alex, 33, and Eric Smith, 27, managing partners, The Atlas Restaurant Group  

For the Ages: “Eric and I always got along great because we were far apart in age,” says Alex. Personality Points: “I am very reserved and typically a quieter person,” says Eric. “Alex tends to be more outgoing, social, and more in the spotlight.” Brotherly Love: “It would be impossible to count how many things I have learned from Alex,” says Eric.  “He is the best mentor and business partner a younger brother could ask for.”

The sharing economy isn’t going away anytime soon—in fact, it’s making its way to our plates. Though the ritual of sharing a meal is ancient, restaurants are now bringing it to the forefront, offering specially curated, large-format meals for two or more on their menus. 

Experiencing a shared meal “is the way you should eat,” says Birroteca owner Robbin Haas. “You should eat where you can engage with everyone at the table. And food is a great denominator for breaking down barriers and making it easy to open a conversation.”

According to a new study in Appetite, a behavioral science research journal, sharing food makes you a better person. Those who share meals more often may be more likely to exhibit altruistic behaviors, like volunteering and giving up your seat on public transportation. So go ahead and grab dinner with friends—it’s your civic duty.

Samos Restaurant
This Greektown taverna gives diners a feel for its namesake island with a Tour of Samos so massive that it will have you saying “opa!” at your table. Think: Greek salad, tzatziki and pita, fried calamari, spinach pie, chicken souvlaki, dolmades, lamb chops, garlic shrimp, gyro, and roasted potatoes. 600 Oldham St., 410-675-5292

Birroteca
At this Hampden hangout, the menu of small plates, bruschettas, and pizzas gives even more ways to share with family-style platters like Crispy Duck Agro Dolce, whole fishes, and classic Spaghetti con Polpette (meatballs). 1520 Clipper Road, 443-708-1934

Gertrude’s at the BMA
For a sweeter way to share, check out Gertrude’s afternoon tea, complete with crab beignets, apricot scones with Devonshire cream, lemon curd, and strawberry jam, as well as chocolate mousse with salted caramel. 10 Art Museum Dr., 410-889-3399

Rec Pier Chop House
The Rec Pier Chop House inside Kevin Plank’s Sagamore Pendry Baltimore hotel is getting in on the act with a whopping 44-ounce porterhouse and a 38-ounce Tomahawk Chop for two. 1715 Thames St., 443-552-1300

Thames Street Oyster House
Both the 5-pound stuffed Maine lobster (stuffed with scallops, shrimp, and crab) and the New England clam and lobster boil bring diners together for an experience reminiscent of a sandy clambake on the coast of Rhode Island, where executive chef Eric Houseknecht spent his summers while still in culinary school. Don’t miss Meat Monday, when Houseknecht prepares family-style dishes for those who prefer land over sea, including 3 pounds of braised meat, and even a whole pig leg. 1728 Thames St., 443-449-7726

Tio Pepe
Fans of this old-school Spanish eatery won’t be disappointed with either of its Para Dos selections, including a roasted rack of baby lamb served with mint jelly, or the Paella a la Valenciana, brimming with fruits of the land and sea. 10 E. Franklin St., 410-539-4675

Wicked Sisters
The Meals for Two dishes at this Hampden newcomer take a nod from a traditional, family-style American Sunday dinner, such as a half-roasted chicken with potatoes, carrots, celery, and onions. “The plate is put between the two of you and then you can fight over it to get the part of it you want,” explains co-owner Charlie Gjerde. What’s a good family supper without at least one argument? 3845 Falls Road, 410-878-0884

You might head to Wicked Sisters thinking you’ll just stay for a craft beer or a cocktail or two. But as you watch the plates of food coming out of the kitchen—say some Boh-braised Mussels or a mug of tomato fennel soup—you’ll soon find yourself hunkering down for the evening and asking for the menu.

There’s a lot to like about Wicked Sisters. For starters, there’s zero pretension here, no concerted attempt to pass for healthy (just say yes to the crab mac-and-cheese), and no talk of local sourcing. (Owner Charlie Gjerde’s brother, Spike, is just down the hill at Woodberry if you want the whole sourcing spiel.)

It’s clear that co-owners Lori—Charlie Gjerde’s wife—and her sister, Carrie Podles (the team also co-owns Alexander’s Tavern, Papi’s Tacos, and Huck’s American Craft), understand that the best bars always feel friendly, especially when all we’re looking for is a comfortable place to land. And if the food exceeds expectations, even better.

After a devastating 2014 fire led to the closing of McCabe’s, Gjerde and his business partners renovated the space over a year. As an homage to McCabe’s, Gjerde has honored the beloved bar with a burger named after the popular watering hole and left intact a charred wall in the upstairs bar as a sort of shrine. 

Patrons will feel very much at home here. The downstairs dining room is industrial chic with white brick walls, exposed duct work, artwork featuring photographs of local landmarks (the Domino Sugars sign, Hampden rowhomes), and piston-ring replicas made by a 100-year-old Baltimore turbo machine company that add an eye-catching sculptural element. The upstairs space is more of a dedicated drinking area, with high-top tables, a second bar, and a shuffleboard table. (Another appreciated amenity: Free valet service in the adjacent Meineke Car Care Center parking lot after 6 p.m. daily and during the day on Sunday during brunch service, which is a major perk.)

Chef Jason Horwitz (who led the kitchen at Gjerde’s defunct Joy American Cafe at the American Visionary Art Museum more than a decade ago) has created a highly approachable menu with plenty of options, including bar bites like beer-battered onion rings and sweet and spicy Brussels sprouts, as well as salads, sandwiches, family style meals for two, and a half-dozen mains. The “everything bagel”—salmon encrusted with seeds on top of a latke—is a nod to his Jewish heritage, while the meatballs (more on them later) honor his Italian side.

On the first of two visits, we dug into the crispy fried wings with Buffalo sauce. We particularly loved the tangy house-made blue cheese dressing, which added a nice cooling component. The same dressing was highlighted in the Blue Cheese Wedge salad. This simple affair features two hunks of super crisp and cold lettuce cloaked in dressing and embellished with flecks of smoky bacon and pieces of diced tomato. 

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Roasted Beets
Roasted beets run the risk of overexposure, but we like that this version with blood oranges, pomegranates, and lemon-garlic vinaigrette adds citrus to the sweet.

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As more serious hunger called, we plowed through a plate of four colossal meatballs swimming in a marinara made with brother Spike’s canned tomatoes and then topped with melted mozzarella. The meatballs are slapped on a grinder roll or served on top of spaghetti in a family-style meal for two, and they’re delicious. The recipe is from chef Horwitz’s grandmother—and he does her proud. 

Carnivores will also delight in the so-called Insanity Burger. You’ll understand the inspiration behind the name when the dish—a mix of chuck, brisket, and short rib stacked high on a brioche bun and heaped with slaw, Sriracha bacon, sharp cheddar, an onion ring, house-made chipotle sauce, lettuce, tomato, a pickle, and a shishito pepper—arrives at your table. (Guy Fieri, eat your heart out.) If you really want everyone staring, order the optional fried egg to plop on top.  

On both of our visits, service was excellent. On our first trip, our server, Colleen, was incredibly cheerful and never steered us wrong. On the other outing, we sat at the bar, where our bartender, Jeff, kept our wine glasses filled and only had our best interests in mind as he jovially suggested that we’d over-ordered. “We can handle it,” we told him, while sopping up the last of the meatballs’ marinara with a piece of cheesy garlic bread. And we did.

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WICKED SISTERS 3845 Falls Road, 410-878-0884.
HOURS Mon.-Thu. 11 a.m.-10 p.m., Fri. 11 a.m.-11 p.m., Sat. 10 a.m.-11 p.m., Sun. 10 a.m.-10 p.m., brunch 10 a.m.-3 p.m.
PRICES Appetizers: $6-15; entrees: $17-45; desserts: $5-8.
AMBIANCE Family-friendly tavern.