On an early spring evening, Steve Monnier inspects a plate of poulet roit au foin—whole chicken roasted in hay and glazed with honey-brandy sauce—while a pastry chef at the pass pipes cream in between fine layers of puff pastry to build a Napoleon, and a line cook oversees the asador, where quail gets grilled above the sparkling embers of the wood fire. 

This is the scene at Chez Hugo Bistro, Monnier’s downtown dining follow-up to Hampden’s Arômes, where the focus was solely a pre-fixe tasting menu. In a sea of sameness, it was a unique restaurant concept at the time, but not everyone in Baltimore was ready for a menu in which the chef did all the deciding. So Monnier heard the people’s cri de coeur and closed his boîte at the end of last year to work on this new concept. If my first few visits are any indication, it was a bonne idée, indeed.

At Hugo, Monnier is cooking not only what he wants to cook, but also what others expect of traditional French bistro food. For daring foodies, there’s still a tasting menu (six to 10 courses for $85/per person), but Hugo’s main menu features a greatest hits of French-country cuisine—from pâte en croute to coq au vin and moules frites. And unlike the sometimes experimental Arômes, which often highlighted avant-garde ingredients such as lime ash and dehydrated scallops, the fare, although still fanciful (to wit, beets with wild rose vinaigrette and sour plums), needs little to no translation.

Also, while Arômes’ environs were the cramped quarters of a Hampden row house, Hugo—named for Monnier’s 4-year-old son and on the site of the former Baltimore International College—has no such issues. Inside this historic building (originally a Methodist Episcopal Church, long before becoming the local culinary arts college), there’s a roomy bar for sipping an effervescent French 75 and a tony dining room with tufted, mustard-colored banquettes, cabaret chairs, French blue walls, mosaic tile floors, and original carved wood moldings. (Think Bordeaux meets Baltimore.)

Monnier, who hails from Reims in the Champagne region of France and worked in the kitchens of several Michelin-starred spots (Le Carré des Feuillants, Le Laurent, Taillevent), is able to showcase his culinary talents here. Of course, many fine-dining chefs have been classically trained in the Escoffier school of cooking, but there’s something about having an actual French chef at the helm that creates a kind of culinary verité.

While our trips to the table were beset by some minor missteps (on one outing, ours was among the first tables seated on a Saturday night, and already the kitchen was out of whole chickens), there were remarkably few for a restaurant in its first semester. On our dinner visits, servers were relaxed and gave good recommendations, including one for the soupe à l’oignon et son toast with sweet charred onions and croutons nestled under a cap of melted gruyère and a beef broth that takes two days to prepare. There was also a ringing endorsement for a simple salad of grilled carrots tossed with tangy grapefruit sections, fennel, and frisée. The citrus of the grapefruit offset the natural sweetness of the charred carrots, and the fennel added a nice crunch. 

On our first visit, the most outstanding entrée was the beef bourguignon, a masterpiece in composition with thick hunks of braised beef short rib on a plate punctuated by carrots, pearl onions, button mushrooms, and two thick slices of bread for mopping up the Bordelaise sauce. It was rich and comforting and a paragon of French home-style cooking. 

There are also nightly specials, including a lobster salad special for two. The $70 price tag was a bit steep, but the portion was large, and the preparation, employing brown butter and curry and placed on a bed of frisée along with a Japanese sweet potato, beautifully showcased the shellfish.    

But the pièce de résistance, and the reason for our return visit, was the aforementioned roasted chicken for two. It has long been said that the true test of a chef is his or her chicken. Nowhere is this truer than at Hugo, where a pasture-raised whole bird is roasted at high heat, then deglazed with white wine, cream and chicken stock. As we waited the requisite 45 minutes it took to prepare, the anticipation, and hunger, mounted. And when a fleet of servers arrived with the fragrant and flavorful chicken neatly sliced in a skillet and served alongside roasted broccoli and potatoes—plus au jus on the side to amp up the succulence and a small salad verte on the side—we ate with abandon.  

Though you’re likely to feel sated even without dessert, remember The French Diet (red wine, butter, chocolate). Consider the macaron au chocolat with chocolate ganache or the crème brûlée with its professionally caramelized crust and just the right level of vanilla swirled into buttercup yellow custard. The Paris-Brest, a donut doppelganger made with choux pastry and filled with praline cream, is equally divine. For next time—and there will be a next time—our sights are set on that Napoleon.

CHEZ HUGO BISTRO: 206 E. Redwood St., 443-438-3002. HOURS: Mon. 11 a.m.-2 p.m. Tues. Thurs. 11 a.m.-2 p.m., 5-9:30 p.m.; Fri. 11 a.m.-2 p.m., 5-10 p.m. Sat. 5-10 p.m. PRICES: appetizers: $7-25; entrees: $23-32, plates for two: $50-75. AMBIANCE: French bistro. 

Just over a decade ago, a 22-year-old Chris Amendola was working alongside James Beard Award-winning chef Sean Brock at his restaurant McCrady’s in Charleston, South Carolina. While assisting Brock with gathering mushrooms and plants in the woods, his love of foraging began.

While working in Massachusetts a few years later, Amendola met Evan Strusinski, the forager for the famed Momofuku Group, which has several international restaurants.

“He took me out a few times and taught me a lot,” Amendola recalls. “After that I just remember getting books and spending countless hours in the woods—wandering around and searching for mushrooms, looking them up, and trying to identify what was what.”

Amendola—who moved to Baltimore five years ago and has since worked at local dining destinations including Fleet Street Kitchen and Waterfront Kitchen—is now showcasing his passion for foraging at a spot of his own.

“It’s exciting that it’s all mine,” he says. “It’s going to be a little different getting used to the fact that whatever I say goes. But it’s something that I’ve been looking forward to for years now.”

The 28-seat restaurant, aptly named Foraged, will open in the former Arômes space on Chestnut Avenue in Hampden later this month. Amendola says he used to deliver his foraged ingredients to Arômes chef/owner Steve Monnier, who is now preparing for a new venture. (Monnier’s new bistro, Chez Hugo, is expected to open downtown in the coming months.)

“Since I first walked in there, I’ve been in love with the space,” Amendola says. “I loved the small, intimate dining room and all of the charm that Steve put into it. It was kind of what I always pictured for my first restaurant.”

Though the menu is still being fleshed out, Amendola says that it will be heavily influenced by what he gathers in the woods, and include both large entrees and smaller plates meant for sharing.

Since it’s currently off-season for foraging, the chef’s opening menu will rely heavily on winter crops from local farmers including greens, potatoes, and root vegetables. But, come spring, he says that he will be out in the woods at least three times per week.

Not only will the menu feature ingredients from Amendola’s outings, but it will also incorporate edible flowers and herbs grown from a hydroponic garden installation on one of the restaurant’s walls.

The chef says that, overall, he wants the spot to be a convivial atmosphere (it will be BYOB until its liquor license is approved) for diners to experience his hyper-local philosophy.

“I want people to feel relaxed and enjoy their time,” he says. “Not quite like a fine-dining restaurant, but something a little more fun and casual. And I want them to really enjoy what each season has to offer.”

OPEN

The Point in Towson: Baltimore County revelers no longer have to Uber to the city to enjoy the laid-back vibe of The Point in Fells, now that the popular watering hole has finally unveiled its second location in Towson. Set in the former home of The Crease on York Road, the chic spot features modern hanging light fixtures, exposed brick, and flat screens around every corner. The eats and drinks mimic the Fells Point flagship, with fine-tuned pub fare including moules frites and shrimp croquettes. There are also local beers on tap, and, of course, plenty of Orange Crushes to go around. 523 York Road, Towson, 410-327-7264

COMING SOON

Giada De Laurentiis Announces Horseshoe Casino Concept: A few months back, celebrity chef Giada De Laurentiis excited local foodies when she—fairly vaguely—hinted that she would be opening a restaurant in Baltimore while filming a Facebook Live video. Recently, the famed Food Network star confirmed the news, announcing that she will open a brand new eatery inside Horseshoe Casino in 2018. The Italian restaurant, whose concept has yet to be fully fleshed out, will take over the former Johnny Sanchez space on the casino’s second floor. The cantina from celebrity chefs Aaron Sanchez and John Besh shuttered its doors in September, shortly before a Times-Picayune report was published alleging sexual harassment by Besh. 1525 Russell St.

CH-CH CHANGES

Arômes: After three years of operating this charming French dining destination in Hampden, executive chef Steve Monnier is ready to switch things up. In a post to Facebook last week, he announced that he would be closing Arômes on November 11 in order to focus on another downtown concept, Chez Hugo. Stay tuned for updates. 3520 Chestnut Ave., 410-235-0035

Parts & Labor: Spike Gjerde’s restaurant group Foodshed is changing up the vibes at this meat-centric sister-spot. Starting on Friday, November 3, the Remington restaurant will ditch its fine-dining feel in favor of more casual sandwiches, soups, snacks, sides, and beer. The space will also reflect the relaxed atmosphere, with a new chalkboard wall and games like Ping Pong and cornhole for diners to enjoy outside near the communal firepit. To celebrate the relaunch, Parts & Labor is hosting a block party on Sunday, November 5, featuring new sandwiches, local beer, and live music by Super City. 2600 N. Howard St., 443-873-8887

One Star Country Club: Federal Hill’s casual cantina No Way Jose is now home to this bar that wants its patrons to leave it one-star reviews on Yelp. (Yes, you read that correctly.) In a time where everyone’s a critic, the concept encourages bar-goers to come see the space for themselves, rather than making a judgment based on others’ online reviews. Swing by the new spot to crack open a can of beer, down a specialty shooter, and chow down on eats like pulled pork nachos and French dip sandwiches. 38 E. Cross St., 410-727-5102

The Elephant: Following a nationwide search, husband-and-wife owners Steven and Linda Rivelis have found an executive chef to oversee culinary operations at this Mt. Vernon mansion. They landed on Venezuelan-born chef Orlando Amaro, a Culinary Institute of Mexico grad who most recently served as executive chef of D.C. hotspot Station 4 Restaurant. Chef Amaro’s experience cooking in kitchens everywhere from Miami Beach to Venezuela will be reflected in the restaurant’s new menu of worldly dishes, which premieres on Wednesday, November 8. 924 N. Charles St., 443-447-7878

EPICUREAN EVENTS

11/4: Taste of the Marketplace
Mount Vernon Marketplace has organized this fun tasting event in an effort to help diners sample all of its stalls without breaking the bank. This weekend, bounce around to taste $5 snacks from the communal food hall’s participating vendors. Look out for favorites like charcuterie from Cultured, burgers from Between 2 Buns, dumplings from Pinch, and shrimp salad from The Local Oyster, as well as offerings from newbies like Mr. Souvlaki and Cucina Al Volo. 520 Park Ave., 11 a.m.-11 p.m., Free.

11/4: Waverly Brewing Company 2nd Anniversary Party
We can’t believe this Woodberry hotspot is already two. To celebrate its big birthday, the brewery is hosting an all-out bash featuring 20 draft beers and savory bites from neighbors Blue Pit BBQ. Plus, get down to tunes spun by DJs James Nasty, Graham Hatke, and Mom Jeans. 1625 Union Ave., 7 p.m., Free.

11/6-11/12: Baltimore Food Truck Week
More than 50 local kitchens-on-wheels are gearing up for the inaugural Baltimore Food Truck Week, which will feature specials from individual trucks and a handful of community events celebrating the area’s mobile vending scene. A culminating festival will be held at Patterson Park on Friday, November 10, featuring live music, local beer and wine, and, of course, fare from local trucks.

SHUT

The Room: We barely got to know this little subterranean space in Mt. Vernon, which closed for good earlier this week after owner Andre Mazelin announced that he would be exploring a new opportunity at Motor House in Station North. The spot was best known for its coffees, community events, and colorful ceiling mural by local painter Wendell “Solely Supreme” Shannon. “Together, we have played, jammed, discussed, laughed, cried, rallied and provided space for community,” Mazelin said in a farewell message posted to Facebook. “What a sweet, rollercoaster of a ride it’s been!” 800 Saint Paul St.

CH-CH CHANGES

Johnny’s: Changes are on the horizon at this Roland Park mainstay, which has been serving up its signature comfort food with West Coast flair since it debuted in 2012. Inspired by co-owner Tony Foreman’s fond memories of family dinners at seafood restaurants as a kid, the restaurant has recently revamped its menu to focus on oceanic offerings. Executive chef Shane Freeland—formerly of Johnny’s sister-spot, Cinghiale—now presents dishes including Maryland crab soup, peel-and-eat shrimp, soft-shell crab, and pan-fried crab cakes with carrot coleslaw. Aside from the seafood specialties, the menu also lists a “Landfood” category with eats such as Maryland fried chicken, smoked baby back ribs, and an angus burger. Despite the menu overhaul, the restaurant’s signature coffee, espresso, and pastry program will remain a staple. 4800 Roland Ave., 410-773-0777

Arômes: This quaint Hampden BYOB has become known for its multi-course tasting menus crafted by French-born chef/owner Steve Monnier. But next week the restaurant will be switching gears, foregoing its prix-fixe formula in favor of a la carte offerings. Starting on May 25, Monnier will debut a classic bistro menu featuring dishes such as a market salad with oyster vinaigrette, onion soup with a sourdough crouton, monkfish with crème fraiche, and lavender-glazed duck breast. Desserts of note include classics like a chocolate tart and strawberry Napoleon. 3520 Chestnut Ave., 410-235-0035

Mad River Baltimore: It’s the end of an era for Federal Hill revelers who have made this South Charles Street staple their go-to hangout over the past decade. Earlier this week, operation partners Andrew Wheeler and David Yike announced that the multi-level lounge would be undergoing a large-scale rebrand in the coming months. “It’s all good things,” Wheeler tells us. “We’re not walking away from the building, but we feel it’s just time to go in a different direction.” Although the partners are keeping details about the new concept under wraps, they say that they’re excited to give Mad River a proper sendoff this weekend. This Saturday night after Preakness, head to the bar for one last blowout featuring guest bartenders, drink specials, and DJ entertainment. 1110 S. Charles St., 410-727-2333

RegionAle: Just in time for summer, this new Ellicott City sandwich shop has added a lineup of refreshing wine slushies to its menu. Kick back on the eatery’s newly opened outdoor patio while sipping varieties like strawberry-lemon with Pinot Grigio and coconut-lime blended with basil and ice. To celebrate National Wine Day on May 25, the discounted drinks will run for $4 throughout Memorial Day Weekend. Aside from the slushies, the shop has also added a summer-inspired Maine Lobster Roll to its list of seasonal offerings. 5705 Richards Valley Road, Ellicott City, 410-465-0505

COMING SOON

Haenyo: This new pop-up from local industry veterans Irvin Seo and Collin Morstein will begin hosting one-night Korean street food dinners throughout the city beginning on Memorial Day. The inaugural event held at Holy Crepe Cafe in Canton on May 29 will feature a lineup of authentic eats handcrafted by Seo—who recently returned from a month-long trip to Korea. The casual, counter-service dinner will be BYOB, and showcase items like banchan (small dishes served over rice), lettuce wraps, and Korean-style pancakes including “haemulpajeon”—a seafood iteration dedicated to the haenyo (female divers) of Korea’s Jeju Island. 2929 O’Donnell St., 5-10 p.m.

The Chasseur: Be on the lookout for a brand new top-level space debuting at this Canton favorite in late July. Management has added an entire third floor to the building, which will act as an indoor-outdoor space with retractable garage-style doors that lead out to a patio boasting high-top tables, television screens, and a fully-stocked bar. The spot—which features burgers, salads, and hearty New American entrees—will also roll out a full raw bar menu in conjunction with the debut of the patio. 3328 Foster Ave., 410-327-6984

NEWS

Gnocco Chef Recognized by Zagat: Gnocco executive/chef owner Brian Lavin received some national love last week when he was recognized as a semi-finalist for Zagat’s acclaimed 30-Under-30 list. Lavin is best known for preparing forward-thinking Mediterranean cuisine at his Highlandtown restaurant, which celebrates its one-year anniversary next month. The list recognizes exceptional talent in hospitality markets across the country and will be narrowed down to 45 finalists in June with the winners being announced in September. 3734 Fleet St., 443-449-6540

Lobster Roll Fridays Return to The Corner Pantry: As temperatures rise, this Mt. Washington community spot is bringing back its Maine lobster roll special on Fridays throughout the summer. Starting on May 26, chef/owner Neill Howell will be serving up five ounces of warm lobster meat tucked inside a toasted brioche bun with fries and a pickle for $28. 6080 Falls Road, 667-308-2331

BREWERY BUZZ

Dogfish Head Brewings & Eats: It’s been a big year for Dogfish Head Brewing co-owner Sam Calagione, who recently clinched a James Beard Award for Outstanding Wine, Spirits or Beer Professional. On top of the national acclaim, Calagione recently announced that Dogfish Head’s flagship brewpub in Rehoboth would be relocating to expanded digs next door. Dogfish Head Brewings & Eats—the new 6,300-square-foot space on Rehoboth Avenue—will feature the brand’s signature craft beers, pub grub, and live music in a revamped space complete with soaring walls, cozy booths, and oversized fishbowl glass windows that allow for lots of natural light.  The space, which opens on May 19, will pair cocktails and Dogfish beers (think SeaQuench Ale and the 90-Minute IPA) with bites like seafood tacos, Buffalo chicken mac and cheese, and pizza out of a hearth oven. 320 Rehoboth Ave., Rehoboth, DE, 302-226-2739

Nepenthe Homebrew: This home-brewing supply shop in Woodberry’s Meadow Mill complex is making moves to a larger home in 2018. After experiencing two floods in the store’s current location, husband-and-wife owners Brian Arnold and Jill Antos have decided to relocate Nepenthe to an expanded 11,000-square-foot property nearby on Falls Road. Aside from selling the brand’s signature beer-making tools, the new space will also house a brewpub with a full kitchen and its own 10-barrel brewhouse.  3622 Falls Road

Union Craft Brewing: In yet another expansion, Nepenthe’s neighbors Union Craft Brewing also recently announced that they would be moving to a larger facility in the neighborhood. The beloved brewery, whose logo has become a ubiquitous Baltimore symbol, will set up shop in a 138,000-square-foot Medfield warehouse that is expected to be up and running by spring 2018. Aside from providing additional production areas, the new digs will also make way for Union Collective—an 87,000-square-foot makerspace adjacent to the brewery that will allow local creatives, nonprofits, and small businesses to produce and sell their products on site. 1700 W. 41st St.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

Crabs and Crushes at Wit & Wisdom: To complement the harborfront views at Wit on the Water—the trendy outdoor patio at Wit & Wisdom inside the Four Seasons Hotel—executive chef Zack Mills has crafted a special crab feast menu to be offered throughout the summer season. Snag one of the patio’s new picnic tables—which come complete with plenty of mallets and other crab-picking tools—to crack steamed crabs and sip signature cocktails (including a house frozen Orange Crush) while soaking up some sun this summer. In addition to the requisite Old Bay-steamed blue crabs, the new menu also includes spicy peel-and-eat shrimp, crispy soft shell crabs, and an array of seasonal sides. 200 International Drive. 410-576-5800

Origins: A Speakers Series: This monthly sustainability series returns to Artifact Coffee on Thursday, May 25 with a roundtable discussion on preserving, pickling, and fermenting. Cozy up in the restaurant’s private space to hear insight from Gordy’s Pickle Jar co-owners Sheila Fain and Sarah Gordon, Hex Ferments co-owners Meaghan and Shane Carpenter, and Lauren Sandler—the director of preservation at Foodshed. Following the panel, stick around for a family-style meal inspired by the evening’s topic of discussion. 1500 Union Ave., 410-235-1881, $60

Recipe: Potato, Apple, Sorrel Curry

Ingredients:

• 1 Yukon potato
• 1 Granny Smith Apple
• 3 French sorrel leaves
• Fleur de sel (French sea salt)
• Butter

Vadouvan: Vadouvan, which means “sun-dried spices” in French, is a unique blend of aromatics and curry spices that originated in Southern India. The key ingredients are onion, garlic, and shallot, to which we’ve added our special curry blend for a rich complexity.

Slice the Yukon and green apple with vegetable slicer, then assemble onto the working space the layer of Yukon potato (seasoned with sea salt), then the layer of green apple, then the sorrel leaves. Roll it and tie it with butcher twine. Cook it for 20 minutes in a pan with butter on one side until golden brown on the bottom. Serve with the vadouvan butter.

For more on Baltimore’s 50 “Best Restaurants,” pick up our March issue, on newsstands now.

If you eat out a few times a month in Baltimore (or more, as I do), the menus have a way of all sounding the same, with “small plates” and “charcuterie” suddenly feeling like the most hackneyed words in the English language. But one look at the lineup at Hampden hotspot Arômes and you’ll know you’re in new territory.

While not for everyone, Arômes (French for aromas) is completely original. With its daring menu and diminutive size—only 28 seats or so—plus prix-fixe courses and unexpected execution of ingredients, it feels like a cross between baby-sized Bottega and venturesome Volt.

Arômes’s concept is as concise as it comes: six dishes for $65 (or three dishes for $45), all with French/New American leanings, all of owner-chef Steve Monnier’s choosing. The menu changes weekly, so the upside is that you’ll never run the risk of eating the same meal twice. (Though the downside is that you might be served something you’d never order otherwise.) The restaurant’s bold mission is clear: It’s Monnier (who hails from Reims in the Champagne region of France and who has several Michelin-starred spots on his C.V.) deciding what’s for dinner. If you feel the need to know the lineup in advance, call and ask. (Don’t go by the website, which only gets updated sporadically.) That being said, there is almost always a piece of fish or extra vegetables on hand for anyone who feels the need to order off-menu.

Chef Steve Monnier is at the top of his game here­—as tastes unfold, then linger on the tongue.

Not to be confused with small plates, this is a true tasting menu that shows off the range of the chef. Portions are petite and the menu, heavy on seasonal local vegetables, though not vegetarian, is carefully curated with the idea that you’re ordering all six courses, so skip the three-course option or there’s a good chance you’ll be raiding the fridge when you get home.

Given that Arômes is all about execution, we appreciate the original way in which
ingredients come together on the plate. On our first visit, the courses included three delicate poached spears of grilled white asparagus with ramp purée and a pool of silken hollandaise sauce, plus a peppery nasturtium leaf (can you say, “spring”?) and scallops that have been pureed, dehydrated, and flash-fried into crunchy chicharónnes, reminiscent of pork rinds. They were as instantly addictive as any snack food. Also of note: an exquisite piece of lambchetta, cured in salt, rubbed with French curry, and sided by celery root and black garlic purée to temper the tanginess of the meat. While lamb is not my preferred protein, in this chef’s hands it made me wonder if the foods we think we don’t like are simply ones that we’ve never had properly prepared.

On a second visit, other memorable morsels included a crispy sweet potato cake resembling shredded wheat, and a pleasantly salty mullet bottarga (roe), as well as a buttery tart slathered with shaved monkfish, crème fraîche, and a lime ash, adding a soupçon of citrus.

Chef Monnier is at the top of his game here, and dishes are meant to be savored. Tastes unfold, then linger on the tongue, sauces are created with proper precision, and everything is seasoned just so. (Hence, the notable absence of salt and pepper shakers as accoutrements on the table.)

But while the food is first-rate, the place falls apart in the décor department. The former row house features bare exposed-brick walls, harsh fluorescent light pouring out of the open kitchen, and Edison bulbs hung sloppily from the ceiling like poorly strung Christmas lights. Place settings need some sprucing up, too. Flatware is flimsy and paper napkins don’t befit food that’s this fine.

The acoustics also pose a problem. While front-of-the-house manager (and fellow Frenchman) Gilles Mascarell, formerly of Salt, was quite doting and took great pains to help us understand the menu, we had trouble hearing him describe each dish above the din. It was boisterous on both of our visits, but on our first night, there was a raucous table of 10, and the noise level was deafening. (It’s my unscientific opinion that BYOB spots do, in fact, tend to lead people to drink far more of the strong stuff than they would if they were ordering off the menu.) Ordinarily the inability to carry on a conversation would be a big problem for me, but with food this good, we reasoned, who needs idle banter? As my husband and I tucked into dessert—a refreshing mound of cucumber granita capping a scoop of lovely lemon verbena ice cream—we savored and smiled at each other in silence.