Thanks to warmer weather, flowers are springing up everywhere, from fields to forests to, yes, even our food.

Whether scattered on salads, strewn across cocktails, or sprinkled on cupcakes, flowers are a chef’s favorite tool to elevate their art.

“Edible flowers can add aroma and a huge pop of color to any dish,” says Chris Amendola, owner-chef of Foraged in Station North. “I like to add color to my plates and flowers really make so many dishes stand out.”

As the name of his restaurant implies, the James Beard-nominated chef forages for many of the menu’s ingredients, including mushrooms, pawpaws, ramps, and wild blueberries. And while every season yields its own gifts, the biggest bounty comes in spring and summer—when Amendola wanders in the woods to forage for cherry blossoms, wood violets, clover, nettles, and other forest flowers.

Amendola first learned to forage while working for famed forager Sean Brock at McCrady’s in Charleston, SC.

“We were on the farm and Sean said, ‘Let’s do a walk in the woods,’” recalls Amendola. “I didn’t realize you could forage anywhere. Ever since then, I’ve been spending time in the woods.”

While edible flowers are a more recent gastronomic trend, they’re also a very old one. In ancient Rome, Greece, and China, flowers were used not only in cooking, but as aphrodisiacs and for medicinal purposes.

Unlike mushroom foraging, which can be dangerous, foraging for flowers is relatively easy.

“Eating flowers is generally safe,” says Amendola, “though you should know what you’re eating. One of my favorite flowers are the wood violets, which come in purple, yellow, and orange. When people eat them at Foraged, they recognize them as something growing on their own front lawns. They’ll say, ‘I had no idea I could eat these.’ I love those moments.”

Long before foraging became part of the local lexicon, chef Chris Amendola was wandering the woods, his backpack brimming with ramps, fiddleheads, and chanterelles, as well as paper and mesh bags to hold his forest finds.

And while there are many who say they forage in Baltimore these days, Amendola is the real-deal forest whisperer. Go hunting with Amendola and you’ll quickly see that he knows how to “read” the trees, taking note of microclimates and searching for chanterelles under maples, or chicken of the woods protruding from fallen oaks.

Although Amendola seems to have a fungal fixation, he embraces anything that’s been locally sourced and is quick to share that there’s a whole generation of people who’ve forgotten where their food came from. “Food comes from somewhere,” he’s fond of saying.

It’s not surprising that Amendola’s idea of opening a seasonal eatery started to take shape at the same time he was learning the art of foraging from James Beard Award-winning chef Sean Brock (of McCrady’s in Charleston). It’s also fitting that the former Fleet Street Kitchen chef went for a straightfoward approach in naming his tiny, 26-seat boîte Foraged: A Hyper-Seasonal Eatery.

As you enter the space on the former site of Arômes, the décor sets the scene: Black-and-white photographs of farm animals hang against exposed brick walls, carved wooden mushroom sculptures adorn the tables, and window boxes and a verdant hydroponic plant wall overflow with violets, nasturtium, basil, and bee balm that not only bring the place to life but are featured in the food.

The farm-to-table concept is a lofty one, but when some chefs realize what’s actually entailed, it can get the best of them in the off-season. It’s also the true test of a chef’s ability to be resourceful in tougher times—and Amendola, who works closely with local growers to get the freshest, most local products, proves that he has what it takes to make the concept successful in any season.

In fact, Foraged opened in late December in the dead of winter (“I had bills to pay,” says Amendola). Several winter visits convinced me that this is a chef that you want with you if you’re ever stranded on a deserted island. (He also convinced me to disregard the caveat “never trust a skinny chef,” because the man is reed thin.)

While the menu is concise and rotates daily, there’s plenty to pick from for every palate, including everything from innovative vegetarian dishes to a slew of pig parts (jowl, socket, cheeks). Know before you go that even the bigger entrees are on the smaller side, but pricing is fair (most dishes are below $20), so order accordingly and save room for one of Amendola’s signature seasonal shortcakes for dessert (and also a sweet surprise that comes with the bill).

There’s a whole generation of people who’ve forgotten where their food came from.

In the depth of December, a plate of sunchokes topped with goat cheese, lemon, herbs, and hazelnuts was bright and beautiful. And diners were no worse for the winter as bowls of rich and earthy mushroom stew studded with pine nuts and ricotta gnudi and topped with a poached egg arrived at the table, while the half chicken with roasted root vegetables was exactly the kind of stick-to-your-bones, satisfying dish you’d want in cooler climes.

Spring saw lighter plates such as sea bass with spring vegetable stew and mushroom buns, while summer starred country ham and melon salad and earthenware plates stacked with fried corn fritters. A recent fall visit ushered in dishes such as fried oysters with pickled radish relish and basil purée and an unctuous plate of braised short rib ravioli tossed with the last of summer tomatoes. Toasted baguette slices and a bowl of house-made ricotta with diced peaches also offered a final farewell in the days that bridge the two seasons.

With so many so-called farm-to-table spots offering beet this and kale or cauliflower that, we can experience dining-out fatigue on occasion. What differentiates Foraged is that whatever—and whenever—you eat here, it will always be interesting.

As fall turns to winter and back to spring, Amendola will, no doubt, go into the woods to bring back the best of the bounty—and we can’t wait to see what he does with whatever it is he finds.

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FORAGED EATERY 3520 Chestnut St., 410-235-0035. HOURS: Tues.-Sat. 5-10 p.m. PRICES: Starters: $9-13; small plates: $12-18; mains: $18-23; desserts: $3. AMBIANCE: Greenhouse chic.

When Chris Amendola moved to Baltimore to work as a chef for Fleet Street Kitchen, he figured it would just be another via point on his way back home to St. Augustine, where he had grown up.

“Something about Baltimore captivated me,” says the chef who has worked in celebrated kitchens from Dan Barber’s famed Blue Hill at Stone Barns in the Hudson River region, as well as Sean Brock’s McCrady’s in Charleston, SC. “I’ve never lived anywhere this long since I left Florida, and now it’s been 15 years.”

With the opening of first eatery, Foraged in Hampden, Amendola has decided to lay down roots. “When I got this restaurant, I was like, ‘Yes, let’s do this,’” he says. “I guess I’m here for a while.”

Why did you want to open a restaurant?
It was always a dream of mine to have my own restaurant one day, although I never thought it would be here in Baltimore. I’ve never lived anywhere this long since I left Florida, but Baltimore captivated me.

Were you concerned about opening in the same spot as a place that had struggled?
There’s always that question, ‘What if we fail? What if I go completely bankrupt?’ At Foraged, I can see the dining room from the kitchen and it’s crazy to think that people are coming in to this restaurant and really enjoying it—it is mind-blowing to see people enjoying what we’re doing to be completely honest.

What did you want Foraged to look like and feel like? What was your mission?
I wanted this to be a fun place a lot the place. I’ve worked in some very stressful and demanding kitchens. With everything that was going on in them, it took away from the fun of cooking. After my job at Waterfront Kitchen didn’t work out, I thought about getting out of the industry, maybe farming or foraging full-time, but after really thinking about it for a while, I was like, ‘I love cooking and the restaurant industry. I’m not ready to give up on this yet.’ I really just wanted to have fun cooking again and tie in everything that I loved about the industry. I just wanted my restaurant to be relaxing, but we are still executing on the same level as a fine-dining restaurant.

What went into naming the restaurant?
It took me forever for me to decide on a name. Literally, two weeks before opening, I still didn’t have a name and then I looked up the definition of ‘foraged,’ that’s when I saw ‘to obtain food and provisions from a place that’s unspecified.’ That’s literally describing what we do here to a tee—whether getting food from the farm or ocean or the woods. The name fit the ethos of the restaurant perfectly.

So how did you learn to forage? You were practicing foraging long before it was a “thing.”
I started working for Sean Brock at McCrady’s. Through that, we had our own farm for the restaurant and I would help out. Sean and I went out to the woods one day, and he was showing me stuff. The whole experience of working at McCrady’s really opened my eyes to a whole different world of cooking. Sean piqued my interest in cooking with wild foods. Then, later in my life when I was living in Massachusetts, I met the forager for the Momofuku group and he took me out to morel hunt quite a few times. We also went hunting for maitake in the fall. Ever since then I just started going out to the woods.

Why does foraging appeal to you?
I enjoy getting away from society and being in the middle of the woods. I love that I can go out to the woods and find mushrooms that people spend up to $60 a pound for and I get them for free. A big part of that whole thing is trying to help open people’s eyes to their surroundings. So you can get this 60-pound mushroom from California, but did you know you could go into the woods outside of Baltimore and get it yourself?

How do you know where to find them?
It starts with the time of year. Each season has their own mushrooms or plants and then once you know what you’re looking for that specific time of year, I’m looking at the microclimates of the woods. Is there a lot of ground coverage or older trees with no ground coverage, which is what I’m looking for? The once I find an area that looks good, I start looking at trees. Specific mushrooms have specific relationships with trees.

For instance, here in Maryland, you’ll find chanterelles under hardwood trees like oaks and maples. Black trumpets you’ll find under beech trees. Morels you’ll find under popular trees. Chicken mushrooms you’ll find a lot on dying or alive oak trees. Ninety-percent of foraging is wandering through the woods. There are times when I’ve wandered for countless hours and not found anything.

I know that you’re particularly fond of foraging mushrooms. Why mushrooms?
Mushroom foraging falls in line with what I love about cooking. With cooking, it doesn’t matter how much you know—you will never know everything. Whether it’s techniques or different products, it’s the same with mushrooms. For every green plant that you see, there are nine different varieties of mushrooms and funguses. There are so many different varieties and it’s one of those things that you can continuously keep learning about them and still not know everything.

Just over a decade ago, a 22-year-old Chris Amendola was working alongside James Beard Award-winning chef Sean Brock at his restaurant McCrady’s in Charleston, South Carolina. While assisting Brock with gathering mushrooms and plants in the woods, his love of foraging began.

While working in Massachusetts a few years later, Amendola met Evan Strusinski, the forager for the famed Momofuku Group, which has several international restaurants.

“He took me out a few times and taught me a lot,” Amendola recalls. “After that I just remember getting books and spending countless hours in the woods—wandering around and searching for mushrooms, looking them up, and trying to identify what was what.”

Amendola—who moved to Baltimore five years ago and has since worked at local dining destinations including Fleet Street Kitchen and Waterfront Kitchen—is now showcasing his passion for foraging at a spot of his own.

“It’s exciting that it’s all mine,” he says. “It’s going to be a little different getting used to the fact that whatever I say goes. But it’s something that I’ve been looking forward to for years now.”

The 28-seat restaurant, aptly named Foraged, will open in the former Arômes space on Chestnut Avenue in Hampden later this month. Amendola says he used to deliver his foraged ingredients to Arômes chef/owner Steve Monnier, who is now preparing for a new venture. (Monnier’s new bistro, Chez Hugo, is expected to open downtown in the coming months.)

“Since I first walked in there, I’ve been in love with the space,” Amendola says. “I loved the small, intimate dining room and all of the charm that Steve put into it. It was kind of what I always pictured for my first restaurant.”

Though the menu is still being fleshed out, Amendola says that it will be heavily influenced by what he gathers in the woods, and include both large entrees and smaller plates meant for sharing.

Since it’s currently off-season for foraging, the chef’s opening menu will rely heavily on winter crops from local farmers including greens, potatoes, and root vegetables. But, come spring, he says that he will be out in the woods at least three times per week.

Not only will the menu feature ingredients from Amendola’s outings, but it will also incorporate edible flowers and herbs grown from a hydroponic garden installation on one of the restaurant’s walls.

The chef says that, overall, he wants the spot to be a convivial atmosphere (it will be BYOB until its liquor license is approved) for diners to experience his hyper-local philosophy.

“I want people to feel relaxed and enjoy their time,” he says. “Not quite like a fine-dining restaurant, but something a little more fun and casual. And I want them to really enjoy what each season has to offer.”

Sometimes, local chefs connect in unusual ways. Last fall, en route
to Hampden’s The Food Market, chef/co-owner Chad Gauss was driving his
Mercedes-Benz when a Honda Pilot pulled past a stop sign on Keswick
Road, nearly careening into his car. The Honda stopped in the knick of
time, but Gauss was pretty angry, launching a few “F-bombs.” Then, he
realized that the car’s driver was none other than fellow culinary
colleague Chris Becker, chief operations officer for the Bagby
Restaurant Group. “I called him on my phone,” Gauss says, “And all in
one sentence, I’m like, ‘You almost hit my car, and do you have any
cauliflower I can use?’”

The car caper is an apt example of what
happens when two of the area’s up-and-coming toques come head to head—or
in this case hood to hood—in what could have escalated into a tense
situation. But never mind flipping the bird or honking the horn in an
act of road rage, Gauss turned the situation into a quest for sourcing a
vegetable. (To no avail, unfortunately, Becker didn’t have any.)

Unlike
other cities (or at least TV cooking shows) where celebrated chefs may
put a proverbial sharpened cooking knife into each other’s backs, a new
posse of Baltimore chefs has made a conscious effort to become comrades,
not competitors, in the kitchen. They include, in addition to Becker
and Gauss, Jonah Kim of Pabu, Cyrus Keefer of Fork & Wrench, and
Chris Amendola of Fleet Street Kitchen, which is run by the Bagby Group.

“We
definitely have a camaraderie together,” says Becker, whose résumé
includes stints at Wine Market Bistro and The Brass Elephant. “It’s the
first time since I’ve been in Baltimore that we all help each other out.
There’s obviously a competitive spirit since we’re all competing for
the same market, but the food scene is growing, and I think the
partnerships and the friendships have helped it grow.”

One of the
major ways in which the chefs have shown their solidarity is through
participation in promotional events such as restaurant anniversaries and
charity functions. Last summer’s first birthday celebration for The
Food Market was particularly memorable. During the evening, Keefer, Kim,
Becker, Patrick “Opie” Crooks (then of Roy’s, now the chef de cuisine
at Shoo-Fly Diner), Tim Dyson of Bluegrass Tavern, and others worked
together in the restaurant’s open kitchen to prepare hors d’oeuvres and
desserts for the party guests.

“That night never ended as a chef,”
says Keefer, excitement still evident in his voice many months later.
“It was awesome. Chris Becker did pork-belly steam buns. Tim did rabbit
fingers. I made bone-marrow croquettes. We were all on the line and
tasting each other’s food, realizing it was all great.”

Since
then, the various members of the group have joined forces at other
get-togethers, including Wit & Wisdom’s second anniversary and a
fried-chicken “smackdown” at Pabu in December. “The community of chefs
here is tight and growing at the same time,” Pabu’s Kim says. “These
events have helped it evolve. We’re the trailblazers for Baltimore.”

The
chefs also show up for meals at each other’s restaurants. “Chad [Gauss]
came in to eat at Shoo-Fly the other day,” Crooks says. “I sent him out
a plate of some of my favorite appetizers, including hush doggies [mini
corndogs with honey mustard], chili-mac, and chicken nuggets made from
scratch that I knew he would order anyway.
“When the food came out,
he looked at me and said, ‘How did you know I wanted all of these
things, and couldn’t decide what I was going to order?’”

This
informal band of brothers comes from a variety of backgrounds. Some are
Charm City native sons (Gauss and Becker). Others have been around the
(chopping) block—Amendola worked at the prestigious Blue Hill at Stone
Barns in Pocantico Hills, NY, as well as kitchens in Orlando, FL,
Massachusetts, and Washington, D.C.; Keefer has worked in kitchens from
Tampa, FL, to the Delaware beaches; Kim’s résumé includes stops in Las
Vegas, New York, and Austin, TX.

It’s not unusual for chefs to
move from state to state or even within a city as they gain more skills
or seek other cooking goals and responsibilities. Their peripatetic
lifestyles probably explain their connection and loyalty to each other.

The
collaborative spirit makes sense to Dave Seel, the director of
marketing and public relations for the Bagby Group. “In the food
industry in the last 10 years, we’ve seen a focus on chef-driven
cuisine,” he says. “You have more people following chefs, and social
media is a big part of that. That shift . . . has allowed them to be in
the spotlight and have a shared sense of being there and being the
spokespeople for the culinary scene.”

It’s an informal mission the
chefs seem to embrace, allowing them to share a passion for
participating in Baltimore’s culinary renaissance.

Case in
point: In May 2013, both Keefer (who was then a chef at Birroteca) and
Gauss were invited to participate in a dinner highlighting the bounty of
the Chesapeake at the prestigious James Beard House in New York City.

While
Gauss prepared an Eastern Shore buffet comprised of whole shrimp, fried
Maryland drummy, and crispy skin rockfish, Keefer cooked up a sous-vide
lamb chop with artichoke purée. Still, the meal was a team effort.

“When
we both found out we were participating, that was a turning point,”
Gauss says. “We were like, ‘We need to go there and play for Baltimore
rather than as individuals.’”

Though they vie for the same
demographic of diners, these chefs—whose styles range from traditional
Japanese to comfort cuisine—do not view themselves as restaurant rivals.
“There’s no real competition,” says Keefer, who worked at The Food
Market when he was between jobs. “We are all doing our own thing, and we
all want to do better.

You see a whole different craftsmanship if you go to Pabu or if you come to Fork & Wrench—and we love each other’s food.”

While
saying this, Keefer is sharing a plate of fried chicken and biscuits at
The Food Market with Gauss. “Other cities are cutthroat,” he continues.
“They feel that if someone comes in and they’re good, they’re like,
‘Oh, there goes my business.’ But that’s not how it works.”

Gauss,
who has been dubbed the class clown by the group, agrees. “We all play
different roles. I don’t want to be the next Charlie Trotter [an
esteemed Chicago chef who unfortunately died last year]. I’m as
Baltimore as it gets.”

He’s proud of his local roots and career
path, but also appreciative of what the other chefs have done. “Someone
like Jonah [Kim] is more like world class,” he says. “He’s a rock star.”
(Like “royalty,” adds Keefer.)

The chefs are particularly
referring to Kim’s role at the Las Vegas restaurant DJT, which earned a
prized Michelin star several years ago.

The chefs—many of whom
share photos on Instagram—have also come to lean on each other for
particular areas of expertise (and occasional acts of generosity).

Amendola,
having worked at Thackeray Farms in South Carolina and at the famed
Stone Barns, for example, is an expert in searching for foods in the
wild. “He understands foraging,” Gauss says. “Now, if someone brings me a
foraged mushroom, just to cover myself, I send him a picture of it
before I use it.”

Kim and Keefer also have a common interest.
“Cyrus is really big into Asian flavors,” Kim says. “We’ve shared
sources and ideas, and I love that he has Asian influences on his menu.”

Even
food and supplies get passed around. When Becker, who oversees the
cooking staffs at all the Bagby restaurants, found himself with a large
surplus of tomatoes, he heaped nearly 200 pounds of the summer-ripe
beauties on Pabu as well as Wit & Wisdom, also located at the Four
Seasons Hotel Baltimore. And Gauss happily lent Kim his food truck to
park at the Baltimore Museum of Industry when the Pabu chef catered the
wedding of a restaurant co-worker last fall. “I did fried chicken,
numerous salads, some sushi, and ribs,” Kim says. “And Elan Kotz
[Gauss’s business partner at The Food Market] helped out.”

In the
band of brothers, there are sisters, too. “I think we probably all drink
too much and swear more than people are comfortable with,” says Jesse
Sandlin, chef at Oliver Speck’s Eats & Drinks, located around the
corner from Fleet Street Kitchen. “We’re all kindred spirits, and we
understand the daily grind. I consider myself especially friendly with
Chad and Cyrus. Chad and I have even talked about doing a dinner
together.”

Given the constraints of a chef’s schedule, it’s not
surprising that bonds form. “It’s easier to be friends with chefs.
They’re the only people you can call at 11:30 at night or 6:30 in the
morning,” says Gauss. Adds Keefer, “We speak the same language. We talk
about the same stuff, like all the new cookbooks that are out. In fact, I
can tell you about all the cookbooks that are out right now that are
worth paging through.”

Gauss can’t help teasing his friend. “If chefs had baseball cards, you’d have every one,” he jests.

The
idea of a chefs’ friendship circle came about in 2005 when Waterfront
Kitchen’s consulting chef Jerry Pellegrino (“He’s like the Papa Bear
overseeing all of us,” quips Kim) founded the Secret Chefs Society—a
monthly supper club for area chefs, including Woodberry Kitchen’s Spike
Gjerde and Rey Eugenio of Ouzo Bay.

Each chef was expected to
prepare a dish using the same list of basic ingredients. From the first
dinner, Pellegrino saw the potential. “We started prepping at around 11
p.m. after a cocktail at the bar and finished dinner sometime after 5
a.m.,” he says. “What I remember was how the same ingredients produced
five incredibly unique and amazing dishes.

“It was then we all
realized that we could learn so much from cooking and drinking with each
other. I’m happy to see the younger chefs in the city start to do
things together again. It’s imperative to building a better food culture
in Baltimore.”

For some chefs, a culinary friendship is no
different than any other friendship. “The definition of this ‘band’ [of
brothers] to me is people who are willing to support each other no
matter how ridiculous the request is,” Gauss says. “I could probably say
to Cy [Keefer], ‘Hey, come cook hotdogs with me at my kid’s baseball
league,’ and he’d be out there with me grilling the buns.”

As the saying goes, that’s what friends are for.

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What music do you listen to while cooking?

Sometimes silence is golden.

1. Classic hip-hop, rap. I like it upbeat in the kitchen. —Chad Gauss
2. Something that’s a little softer when I’m working behind the line—Keane, Fleetwood Mac. —Cyrus Keefer, pictured, center
3. I try not to listen to music in the kitchen. But if I do, it’s Empire of the Sun. It’s super poppy. —Patrick “Opie” Crooks
4. Depends on what and where I am cooking—anything from Bill Withers and Marvin Gaye to Tool. —Chris Becker
5. Honestly,
   the music I like to listen to most when cooking is classical music. In a
   high- stress environment, it’s nice to listen to something relaxing.
   —Chris Amendola
6. Whatever I have on my iPod. If it’s prep, I want
   something upbeat like Mastodon. I’m all over the place. Other times, it
   could be the Zac Brown Band. —Jesse Sandlin
7. We don’t listen to any music. It’s a focus thing. If we did, it would be ’80s music. —Jonah Kim

What’s your favorite cookbook?

Joy of Cooking is no longer the coolest cookbook on the shelves!

1. My Little Amish Cookbook. My grandmother gave it to me. It’s down to earth. The recipes are easily adaptable. —Chad Gauss
2. Eric Ripert’s A Return to Cooking. There is soul in the book about his coming back to cooking. —Cyrus Keefer
3. Pickles, Pigs & Whiskey by John Currence. It’s real, down to earth. —Patrick “Opie” Crooks
4. I go through phases. Now, probably The River Cottage Meat Book [by Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall] and Daniel Humm’s I Love New York. Another all-time favorite is probably Thomas Keller’s Under Pressure. —Chris Becker
5. It’s either The French Laundry Cookbook
   [by Thomas Keller] because, when I was just starting out, I read that
   book 100 times it was so inspiring to me, and the other is On Food and Cooking [by Harold McGee]. To me, it’s still one of the greatest books ever written for a chef. —Chris Amendola
6. Right now, John Currence’s Pickles, Pigs & Whiskey and Edward Lee’s Smoke and Pickles. —Jesse Sandlin
7. Michael Bra’s Essential Cuisine. It’s amazing. It was a prized cookbook going through my career. —Jonah Kim

What do you like to cook at home?

We’re not the only fans of the crockpot!

1. One-pot dinners and breakfast for my kids (ages 11, 5, 2). —Chad Gauss
2. I braise. I like the one-pot wonders, everything in the same pot. We let it cook ’til we’re hungry. —Cyrus Keefer
3. A simple roast chicken. —Patrick “Opie” Crooks
4. Super simple dishes like whole roasted black bass and roast chicken. However, my wife would tell you nothing. —Chris Becker
5. I
   don’t tend to cook much at home. I will order a pizza or eat a bowl of
   cereal or a good ol’ PB&J with a glass of milk. . . . It all changes
   if I am dating someone or trying to impress someone. —Chris Amendola
6. I don’t cook a lot at home. I do cook breakfast, and I just got a juicer. —Jesse Sandlin
7. Pasta. I worked in an Italian restaurant before Baltimore. —Jonah Kim

Who’s your bff?

One of them has a curly tail!

1. My wife, Wendi, and my work wife Elan [Kotz, his restaurant partner]. —Chad Gauss
2. My wife, Angela. —Cyrus Keefer
3. Asher Baskett. He lives in Nashville, TN. We’ve been friends since high school, 10 years. —Patrick “Opie” Crooks
4. My wife, Alison. —Chris Becker
5. It would probably be between my brother or a guy I grew up with, Christian. —Chris Amendola
6. Obviously, my pig Ollie. —Jesse Sandlin
7. My wife, Carly. —Jonah Kim

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An Inside Look at Cunningham Farms

Restaurateurs David and
Jane Smith take their locavore mission seriously at their Cockeysville
property. The working farm provides produce, eggs, lamb, and pork to
their restaurants—Cunningham’s, Fleet Street Kitchen, Ten Ten, and Bagby
Pizza Co.