On the list of things to love about the new Grand Cru Market Bar—and there are many—No. 1 is the fact that a bartender will happily pour you a half glass of wine, draught beer, or even make you a smaller-than-standard cocktail. It’s a genius idea that’s rare around these parts.

Since opening in December, the bar has added a much-needed jolt to the space in Belvedere Square that’s sat vacant since the Italian grocer Ceriello closed in 2019. It’s an outgrowth of the beloved adjacent wine shop that’s been a market staple for years.

Husband-and-wife co-owners Jayce Flickinger and Rebecca Sandler set out to create a neighborhood gathering spot. Judging by the crowds we encountered during happy hour, they’ve succeeded. The incredibly relaxed vibe imparted by the bartenders is a major reason, but so is the unique lists of cocktails, beers, and wines.

Take for example the 600 Pounds of Sin. It’s made with reposado tequila, saffron amaro, sweet vermouth, Aztec chocolate and angostura bitters, and an absinthe rinse. Its potency and curious collection of ingredients make it understandable why the bartender who serves it calls it the joint’s most “divisive” cocktail. But the creativity and care with which it’s made underscores why it and so much at Grand Cru succeeds. Among the other house cocktails that shine through is the Velvet Waltz, a combination of rye, blueberry amaro, sage, demerara, lemon, and black walnut bitters. It too packs a punch yet is eminently drinkable. Boy With a Coin, Grand Cru’s take on sangria, is red-wine-based, with house-infused vanilla Cognac, pomegranate, and spices.

If you’d like, a bartender will make you a classic drink like a Manhattan, Old-Fashioned, or Mai Tai. But an entire section of the menu is dedicated to Grand Cru’s twisted takes on these standards. An Old-Fashioned is made with Añejo tequila and chocolate bitters. A “fortified” Manhattan adds port wine to the rye whiskey base. Again, these drinks aren’t for every palate, but those willing to take a risk will be rewarded.

On the days we visited, the intriguing list of beers on tap included a marshmallow milk stout, Belgian saison, orange crush ale, black IPA, and a pilsner from Germany. There were plenty of local offerings avail- able in bottles and cans, including varieties from Union, Heavy Seas, and Brewer’s Art. There is also wine by the glass, bottle, and on tap, and a smattering of hot drinks like Say A Little Prayer: chai tea with crème liqueur and whipped cream.

After enjoying several drinks and finishing a bowl of spicy basil noodles from nearby Thai Landing (Grand Cru doesn’t serve food but invites customers to bring anything back from any stall in the market), we were full and slightly buzzed, but not quite ready to go home. A half pour it was.

When Spike Gjerde’s Foodshed restaurant group took over Grand Cru in 2014, there were certainly big shoes to fill. Not only had the Belvedere Square wine bar been there for more than a decade, but the sudden death of its beloved owner, Nelson Carey, shocked the community.

Gjerde and partners Corey Polyoka and John “JC” Unitas III decided to change some things to be on brand with their other restaurants, including nixing some of the signature food items, replacing a chalkboard wall with subway tiles, renovating the bar, and reconfiguring the wine shop. In true Baltimore style, some patrons objected to the menu omissions or shiny new details.

But now Grand Cru (527 E. Belvedere Ave., 667-212-4847) is getting back to its roots, thanks to new owner Jayce Flickinger, who was a bartender there from 2008 to 2012. Fittingly, he also worked at Foodshed restaurants Shoo-Fly and Parts & Labor—so the latest iteration of Grand Cru is a happy blend of the old guard and new.

The wine shop in the back is organized more simply, and the chalkboard menu is back, too. Guests can sip wine by the bottle from the shop (with a corkage fee) or by the reasonably priced glass. The night we visited, we enjoyed the black cherry tones and dry finish of an Emerson pinot noir.

The menu also consists of affordable cocktails and lists classics such as a Rat Pack Martini or more creative concoctions like Paul Bunyan’s Breakfast—bourbon, citrus, and maple syrup—a hearty and sweet cocktail perfect for winter. Another plus: lemons and limes (banned by Foodshed because citrus couldn’t be sourced locally) are back in use.

Long-time regulars will see familiar items on the menu again, including olive assortments, cheese and charcuterie plates, and a customer favorite in the soft pretzel platter. But there are welcome additions, too, including a käsekrainer (cheese-filled sausage) from Parts & Labor served on a bun with mustard and kraut, with a bag of Utz chips on the side.

On the bitingly cold evening we popped into Grand Cru, the place was packed. Beyond the pretzels and the price points, we credit Flickinger with a more inviting and familial vibe. After all, he gets it: Years ago, he and his wife, who now live up the street in Rodgers Forge, met at this very bar.

COMING SOON

Vent Coffee Roasters: Union Craft Brewing’s new communal makerspace in Medfield is already 80 percent leased. Since Union Collective was announced last May, the 138,000-square-foot warehouse—which will be home to the brewery’s brand new production facility and taproom—has attracted tenants including Earth Treks, Huckle’s Gourmet Hot Sauce, and The Baltimore Whiskey Company. The latest to join the lineup is Vent, a small-batch roastery from longtime barista and coffee connoisseur Sarah Walker. Slated to open in spring 2018, Walker’s stall will have a “garage-chill vibe” with a roll-up door, picnic tables, a full coffee and espresso bar, and two skylights. Be on the lookout for traditional espresso drinks, nitro cold brew on tap, and even Chemex and Aeropress offerings. The menu will also highlight locally sourced pastries, teas, and baklava and Greek butter cookies made from Walker’s family recipes. 1700 W. 41st St.

Cowboys & Rednecks:We thought that this Federal Hill favorite was a goner. The honky-tonk hangout closed its doors last year, after owner Guy Naylor sold the property to the owners of neighboring bar Banditos. The South Charles Street space has since been rebranded as Wayward Smokehouse, but plans are in the works to revive the Cowboys & Rednecks (C&R) concept—this time in Towson. C&R is expected to open on the first floor of the mixed-use Towson Commons development along York Road in the coming months. The spot will join other restaurant tenants including Brown Rice Korean Grill and a yet-to-open Insomnia Cookies. Here’s hoping the bar brings back its signature barbecue fare, Southern soundtrack, and life-sized Jenga. 1 W. Pennsylvania Ave., Towson

Dutch Courage: Veteran bartenders Brendan Dorr and Eric Fooy are opening this gin bar in Old Goucher next year. The spot—whose name refers to the confidence that 17th century British soldiers would gain after drinking Hollands gin—will offer a list of classic cocktails, as well as an array of rotating options. The space will feature a main bar, relaxing parlor room, and its own lush courtyard outside. 2220 N. Charles St.

SOUTH BALTIMORE BEAT

Baltimore Soup Company: This Towson-based cafe will be bringing its hearty soups to Federal Hill just in time for the winter weather. A second location of Baltimore Soup Company is expected to join Minnow on the bottom floor of the 2 East Wells apartment complex within the next six weeks. As its name suggests, the cafe emphasizes its soups (think chicken and rice, hearty vegetable, and Maryland crab), but also offers a variety of salads and sandwiches to satisfy hunger pangs. 2 E. Wells St.

Hair of the Dog Pub & Grub: The blue and white mural that formerly advertised No Idea Tavern on the brick facade of 1649 South Hanover Street in Federal Hill will soon have a new logo. No Idea owners Jon Ferguson and Stacy Lynch recently launched this new concept, which features a fresh menu by chef Kenya Butler. Among the new dishes are additional quesadillas, salads, and signature sandwiches like the “Dogwood” with roast beef, turkey, and Applewood smoked bacon. The neighborhood spot will maintain its sports bar feel, boasting nightly specials and 20 screens. 1649 S. Hanover St., 410-814-0342

Diablo Doughnuts: This fan-favorite Fells Point shop will be peddling its colorful confections across the harbor next year. Diablo Doughnuts—which currently shares its Broadway Square shop with pizzeria Hot Tomatoes—is moving into its own digs in the Federal Hill space that formerly occupied Felici Cafe on Light Street. Expected to debut in January, the larger space will make way for owner Michael Roslan to expand his hours (Hot Tomatoes operates in the current space during the evenings), as well as his menu. But—not to worry—the signature s’mores, maple-bacon, and cereal-crusted “Unicorn Farts” donuts will remain staples. 1035 Light St.

Sundays: In other donut news, this offshoot of Mt. Vernon mainstay Dooby’s will be debuting inside Cross Street Market later this month. The stall will feature breakfast sandwiches, as well as its signature brioche and cake donuts in fun flavors including French toast, strawberry shortcake, matcha green tea, and honey oat goat cheese. Sundays will join other pop-ups including Cockeysville barbecue joint Smoke, D.C-based soup purveyor Prescription Chicken, yogurt parfait producer Gertie’s Yummy Yogurt Bowls, and regional chain Cookie Dough & Co. in the market—which is in the midst of a multi-million dollar redesign by local developer Caves Valley Partners. All merchants will remain open throughout construction, which is slated to be completed by 2019. 1065 S. Charles St.

VETERAN’S DAY OBSERVANCES

11/11: Mission BBQ

In keeping with its patriotic mantra (each location stands to recite the pledge of allegiance at noon daily), this beloved barbecue chain will honor all local veterans and active military duty personnel with free sandwiches and cake on November 11. All locations, scattered everywhere from Canton to Owings Mills, will be participating. Multiple locations including 3701 Boston St., 443-955-6807.

11/11-18: Feeding the Homeless: A Veteran’s Day Tribute and Thanksgiving Dinner

Now in its fourth year, this community gathering has grown into a two-day event. On November 11 and November 18, locals will gather to feed more than 1,000 of the city’s displaced citizens in honor of Veteran’s Day and Thanksgiving. In order to produce the home-cooked meal, organizers are collecting contributed food, soft drinks, and serving supplies. Other donations that are needed include personal hygiene items, winter clothing, blankets, and coats. 420 Fallsway, 2 p.m.

CH-CH CHANGES

Grand Cru: On the heels of launching a rebrand at Remington hotspot Parts & Labor, Spike Gjerde’s restaurant group Foodshed has made the decision to sell Grand Cru. The team took over the Belvedere Square wine bar in 2014, after owner (and Gjerde’s business partner) Nelson Carey passed away suddenly. Now, the bar is in the process of being turned over to former Foodshed employee Jayce Flickinger. Foodshed managing partner Corey Polyoka recently told The Sun that the decision to sell the spot comes as the company focuses its attention on A Rake’s Progress, a new restaurant expected to open in the Adams-Morgan neighborhood of Washington, D.C.  by the end of the year. 527 E. Belvedere Ave. 

A legendary local name appears headed to take over a well known North Baltimore business.

John C. Unitas III, grandson and namesake of Baltimore Colts football legend and Golden Arm restaurant owner Johnny Unitas, has emerged as the prospective lead buyer of the Grand Cru wine bar and wine shop, nearly six months after the sudden death of former owner Nelson Carey.

Unitas and a business partner, Jacqueline Beal, are identified as prospective buyers of the popular gathering spot in Belvedere Square Market, including its liquor license, in documents on file with the Maryland Board of Liquor License Commissioners for Baltimore City.

Unitas and Beal have formed an entity called BSq Wine Co. LLC to buy Grand Cru. An application to transfer Grand Cru’s seven day liquor license to BSq Wine Co. LLC was filed on January 6, and a public notice was posted on the exterior of the wine bar last week. The current license holders are Christina Carey, Nelson’s widow, and David O’Ferrall. Christina Carey and the Grand Cru staff have operated the wine bar since Carey died of a heart attack last year, at age 50.

Stan Meros, manager of Belvedere Square Market, said the management of Belvedere Square supports the new owners.

“We’re upbeat about the transfer,” Meros said. “It is working out very well. It’s a bad situation whenever someone dies, but we have made the best of it.”

Meros said the business is changing hands because Christina Carey has another career and did not want to continue operating Grand Cru after her husband passed away. He said Grand Cru has been an asset to Belvedere Square and the management wants to keep it that way. Meros also noted that Unitas’s grandfather operated the Golden Arm restaurant about a mile north of Belvedere Square.

Unitas, 26, said he is currently a buyer for Urban Outfitters in Philadelphia but has worked on the wine team at Cinghiale in Harbor East and as a server at Petit Louis Bistro in Roland Park. He said he is excited to be taking over a business with such a strong reputation and following.

“I want to get back into the food industry,” he said. “What better way to do that than to have a place with such a great legacy and such a great soul? . . . I have tremendous admiration for what Nelson Carey accomplished . . . I would say the experience will not change. It’s a great meeting place, a great place where people can get together. The legacy that Nelson built at Grand Cru will always remain part of Grand Cru. That will not leave.”

Unitas, who goes by “JC” and called his grandfather “Pop-Pop,” said Grand Cru was his “date night spot” before moving to Philadelphia and he knew Carey from being a patron there.

He added that with the last name of Unitas, “I have always been handed a huge pair of shoes to fill . . . I am ready for the challenge.”

Since opening in 2003, Grand Cru has become a magnet for a diverse mix of patrons from North Baltimore and beyond, including attorneys, doctors, developers, educators, politicians, clergy, artists, television personalities and the occasional Pulitzer Prize winner. Its success was largely attributed to Nelson Carey, whose sudden death was followed by a wave of tributes. Hundreds attended his memorial service at The Episcopal Church of the Redeemer.

According to the liquor license transfer application, Unitas will have a 99 percent financial interest in the business, and Beal, 28, will have a one percent financial interest. Unitas will be the “full time operator.” Additionally, the sale price of the business, including the liquor license, is $200,000. Grand Cru’s monthly rent at Belvedere Square is $6,630 per month.

The liquor board has set January 22 as the deadline for people to protest the proposed liquor license transfer. According to Douglas Paige, assistant executive secretary of the liquor board, a public hearing on the application likely will be held in February. If approved by the liquor board, the sale of the business and transfer of the liquor license could take effect shortly afterwards.