If the pandemic has taught us anything, it’s that you can take it with you.

When you just don’t feel comfortable eating inside a restaurant, getting food to go is no longer a matter of last resort. While plenty of joints have long run a brisk carryout and delivery business, other restaurants have gotten into the game as a way of broadening their business models.

When Le Comptoir du Vin pivoted to becoming a European-style pantry featuring grab-and-go items, they did it as a matter of survival. “When we saw the pandemic wasn’t going away, we restructured,” says Rosemary Liss, who co-owns the Station North restaurant with her partner Will Mester. “That has carried us through this whole time.”

Now, as the restaurant re-opens for regular dinner service, the marketplace is still open for business. “This is here to stay,” says Liss.

Carrying-out is the new dining-in. Here are the “It” items from other area spots:

Dylan’s Oyster Cellar

It’s an “R” month (not that it really matters anymore, thanks to oyster farming), which means it’s the peak time to slurp oysters to-go. From Duxbury to Wellfleets, this Hampden haunt serves some of the best bivalves in Baltimore.

Limoncello

The “Gnocchi Al Telefono” bathed in tomato ragù and topped with smoked mozzarella is as good to-go as when you eat in at this Locust Point restaurant.

Linwoods

This Owings Mills institution has consistently provided some of the best to-go fine-dining fare since the start of the pandemic. The broiled crab cake with a side of slaw is a menu highlight.

Tapas Teatro

Don’t make us pick just one! Well, that’s the whole point at this Station North staple. Settle on a few classics, like spicy chicken and cheese croquettes, grilled octopus in Romesco sauce, salmon slicked with molasses, then follow up with flan.

From pepperoni pizza to garlic bread and chicken Parm, most of what we consider iconic Italian food in the United States is more of a construct created for Americans than something you’d actually find in Italy. In fact, Italian cuisine has become so popular and ubiquitous in the U.S., it’s almost as American as apple pie. Rare is the restaurant that actually feels like it holds an Italian passport.

Enter Limoncello, located on the first floor of Anthem House in Locust Point, with a sister spot in St. Michael’s. This southern Italian restaurant focuses on the cuisine from the Campania region, where its three owners have their roots. And the general manager (and chef’s first cousin) Vincenzo Schiano, who also hails from the region, likes to joke that, having recently moved to America, he “just got off the boat and still has salt on his skin.”

But while the restaurant itself arrived only a few months back, thanks to polished service and perfectly executed plates, it feels incredibly established. Of course, it helps that this is chef-owner Gennaro DiBenedetto’s 10th restaurant (others include Bacco Italian+Wine Bar in Abingdon and Rockfish Grille in Chestertown). “I want this to be the best, my legacy,” says DiBenedetto.

To that end, Limoncello is all about insistence on authenticity and a celebration of an agriculturally rich region whose waiters teem with an astounding array of fish and shellfish. “No corners are cut,” explains Schiano. “If we can’t make it, we import it from Italy.”

This means that delicious aged mozzarella di buffala, known as “white gold,” is air-shipped daily from Campania. Ditto the prosciutto di Parma for the paninis and mortadella ground into the meatballs. Even the boxed Barilla pasta, while available locally, is shipped from Italy, because it’s better than what you can buy stateside and, with its higher starch content, ensures the sauce sticks to the noodles. The authenticity also means that the namesake liqueur is made with whole-grain alcohol (not vodka as it is with the Americanized version), which allows the citrus to shine.

Full disclosure: As a critic, I waiver between ordering what I want and what I think I should get. But with a menu focused on two of my favorite foods—fresh seafood and pasta—I can, quite happily, do both at the same time here.

On my first visit, a busy Saturday night in November, my dining companion and I ordered a lineup of terrific appetizers from Italy’s version of comfort food, thin slices of fried baby eggplant in ragù with mozzarella, as well as an order of the marvelous meatballs made with kobe beef, mortadella, and ground pistachios. My favorite dish of the night was a luscious pesce al brodetto (fish stew), chock full of clams, calamari, head-on shrimp, scallops, and fish swimming in a soupy saffron bisque that offered great fishy flavor.

Similarly, the head-on branzino, dressed with salt, pepper, and a splash of oil, was a paragon of the less-is-more style of Italian cooking. It was served with lovely fingerling potatoes, a tomato, and escarole salad. A pungent olive oil, lemon, and garlic sauce for drizzling was served on the side. With both dishes, though not for the squeamish, I was impressed that the fish and shrimp were served with the head on—and, yes, that was me chowing down on a shrimp head. That’s really where you find the flavor.

The meatball appetizer.

A craft cocktail.

A second visit was similarly successful, though there were minor missteps. The bread, made in-house daily, was somewhat stale, and the Sicilian-inspired arugula salad with fennel and blood orange accidentally arrived undressed and a bit wilted. That said, when we asked for “more” dressing, our server delivered it promptly.

Despite the slow start, we took our server’s advice and ordered her favorite dish, the pappardelle zafferano, fat ribbons of house-made pasta bathed in a golden yellow saffron cream sauce and topped with a tangle of shrimp, scallops, and lump crabmeat. It did not disappoint. The addition of saffron lent a floral note and accentuated the sweetness of the shellfish.

We also enjoyed the grigliata di mare, grilled seafood including whole calamari, head-on shrimp, chargrilled octopus, and swordfish, with the same olive oil, garlic and lemon sauce served on the side that was paired with the branzino. Again, the simple preparation of of this dish and its high-quality ingredients made for a perfect example of letting the seafood stand on its own.

Beyond the food, the yellow and blue décor, echoing sun and cerulean sky, a lemon tree, lettered lights spelling out “Ciao,” and driftwood mounted to the wall are an attempt to invoke Italy’s coastal region. Okay, so the Patapsco isn’t exactly the Mediterranean, but once you eat that first tender tentacle of charred octopus, you could be convinced. “Our goal,” says Schiano, is “to express ourselves through our food.”

Mission accomplished.

LIMONCELLO 900 East Fort Ave., 443-708-1540. HOURS: Lunch and weekend brunch 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner: Mon.-Thur. 4-10 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 4-11 p.m., Sun. 4-10 p.m. PRICES: Appetizers: $12-22; entrees: $10-39. AMBIANCE: Italian coastal.

The dining scene continues to soar, and, oh, what a year it was to eat—and drink—in Baltimore. What didn’t I eat this year? From foie gras and snails to matcha ice cream and crab cakes with succotash, I enjoyed it all. But a few things stand out, and there’s a theme to my picks here. Life is complicated enough—when it comes to dining out, this was the year I craved simple sandwiches, comfort food, and mezcal-based cocktails to wash it all down. In looking back, who knew that celery—a vegetable of last resort—would play a starring role on my best bites list?

The Mezcalita at Clavel

I eat in restaurants for a living, so I try not to order the same dishes (or drinks) again and again when I’m dining out. That’s how I came to discover the mezcalita. The margarita at Clavel is likely my favorite liquid on the planet, but I branched out this year and moved on to the mezcalita, an impossibly smoky, sweet, and spicy concoction that should be savored with every sip. If I’m being completely honest, I originally ordered my go-to margarita at this Remington hotspot, but the mezcalita was brought to the table instead. Talk about happy accidents.

The Clam Dip at True Chesapeake Oyster Co.

It’s hard to find a good clam dip—or any clam dip for that matter—outside of New England, so I couldn’t resist trying this offering at the seafood-centric True Chesapeake in Whitehall Mill. This version, an old family recipe that comes from owner Patrick Hudson’s grandmother, was loaded with fat and luscious clams. And the house-potato chips, impossibly crispy and nicely salted, were the perfect foil for dunking and cutting the richness of the creamy dip.

The Fried Chicken Sandwich at The Choptank

Who gets a fried chicken sandwich at a crabhouse? I do. Making good fried chicken is an art form, and chef Andrew Weinzirl has demonstrated it at this new upscale crab house in Fells Point. An air-chilled, buttermilk-brined breast allows the meat to stay moist and stand up to the coating. A tangy mumbo sauce adds heat and a house-made slaw adds crunch. Think heaven in a bun.

Cornmeal Fried Oysters at Charleston

No one knows how to fry an oyster better than James Beard-nominated chef Cindy Wolf at this Harbor East gem. With six to an order, and accompanied by a kicky cayenne mayonnaise, they’re all too easy to eat like candy. Learning some restraint takes willpower, but I’ve learned to savor each and every bite—it leaves me with less longing between visits.

Falafel Salad at The Corner Pantry

This sweet spot in the Lake Falls Village shopping center is one of my favorite stops for creative and always fresh salads. Chef Neil Howell is a Brit, but it seems he’s also mastered Middle Eastern cuisine. His house-made falafel on a bed of green with tahini dressing is delicious. No shortcuts are taken here, even the pita chips are house-made.

Pesce al Brodetto at Limoncello

This Locust Point newcomer that celebrates the treasures of Southern Italian coastal cooking has been great straight out of the gate. To wit, the pesce al brodetto, a beautiful bowl rife with Manila clams, calamari, head-on shrimp, scallops, fish, tomatoes, and saffron broth. Given the different cooking times for each type of seafood, it’s a dish that can be easily overcooked, but is cooked to perfection here. The accompanying grilled bread adds the final grace note.

The Tilted Burger at The Tilted Row

When is a cheeseburger more than a cheeseburger? When it’s the cheeseburger coming from the kitchen at Bolton Hill’s new gastropub The Tilted Row. Hard to say whether it’s the addition of pimento cheese, the smoky bacon or mile-high mound of onions, the crunchy pickles, or the proprietary sauce that makes it work so well. Or maybe it’s just the alchemy of it all.

The Brussels Sprouts at Birroteca

Just when I thought that I’d eaten enough Brussels sprouts for the rest of my life, I went back for one more serving at Birroteca. This dish, flash-fried Brussels drizzled with chili oil, sitting in a swirl of black garlic aioli and topped with coppa, was my go-to appetizer at this artisanal pizza spot for many years, but I hadn’t been in some time. After the recent passing of its owner Robbin Haas, I went as an homage. It was as good as ever and a fitting legacy of a beloved restaurateur.

Raspberry Macarons (Or Any Macarons) at Sacré Sucré

Everyone and their uncle likes to call a cookie a macaron, but very few are the real deal. These are. Spouses Dane Thibodeaux and Manuel Sanchez use real fruit fillings and no artificial ingredients for their confections, which come in a variety of delectable flavors including salty caramel, vanilla, chocolate, and lemon. I love the burst of tangy raspberry to offset the sweetness, plus, I’m pretty sure it counts as my daily fruit serving.

The Celery Salad at Le Comptoir du Vin

There’s a reason that Station North’s tiny boîte, Le Comptoir du Vin, became an almost overnight sensation, landing on Bon Appetit’s Hot 10 List and earning a spot on Esquire’s list of Best New Restaurants in America. It’s that good. But likely its star status came from, of all things, this celery salad, flecked with pistachios and dates and coltura (anchovies). It’s a study in salt and sweet—a humble salad that’s also incredibly refreshing. Really, the best of my best bites.

COMING SOON

Limoncello: Prepare to get a taste of the Amalfi Coast by way of Locust Point when this long-awaited Italian spot officially opens on October 26. Joining Amber and Jazz + Soju on the bottom floor of the Anthem House apartment complex, Limoncello—which operates a flagship in St. Michaels—will offer its menu of Italian seafood dishes and prime cuts of meat paired with extensive cocktail and wine lists. Chef/owners Gennaro DiBenedetto and Francesco Schiano di Cola will also whip up signature pastas such as the Linguine al Nero di Seppia (squid ink pasta, red wine-braised octopus, and arugula), Paccheri Medusa (lump crab meat, sea urchin, cherry tomatoes, and spicy bread crumbs), and the Bucatini alla Amatriciana—which tops hollow noodles with tomato ragù, guanciale, onions, and pecorino romano cheese. The 120-seat spot features a large bar, banquette seating, and a seasonal outdoor patio perfect for sipping the restaurant’s namesake limoncello.

The Rathskeller: The Howard County dining scene continues its expansion with the addition of this German-inspired basement bar opening on Main Street in Elkridge on October 19. Set in a former quilt shop that dates back to the 18th-century, The Rathskeller will live up to its name by providing a lively community gathering place for locals to enjoy eats and drinks from consulting chef Brian Cieslak (the chef de cuisine at Preserve in Annapolis) and bartender Rob Vogel, formerly of The Elk Room in Harbor East. Their menu puts its own spin on German classics with options spiced chicken schnitzel, sausages with sauerkraut and curry ketchup, rainbow trout with dressed greens, and a ham steak with warm bacon onion dressing. Vogel will pour local drafts from the likes of Diamondback and Burley Oak Brewing, and also offer signature cocktails like the “Golden Pear,” which mixes tequila with Goldschläger, pear nectar, honey, and lemon.

Renovated by owner John O’Connor—a structural engineer whose wife will run a coffee shop called Screamin’ Agnes on the first floor—the 44-seat space will feature repurposed materials from the historic building. Touches include a barrel-vaulted ceiling, stained glass windows, and banquettes made by a local carpenter. Adding to the historic charm, there will be a 30-seat outdoor patio overlooking a small building that is rumored to have been used by a local judge as the town’s “drunk tank” jail on weekends.

The Curious Oyster: The team behind Federal Hill hotspots Wayward Smokehouse, Banditos Bar + Kitchen, and 101 Baltimore is getting ready to reveal its latest concept on The Avenue in White Marsh later this month. (Private soft-opening events are planned for this weekend, and a grand opening celebration is expected to be announced soon after.) As its name signifies, the destination will focus on regionally farmed oysters alongside seafood dishes like colossal crab cakes and shrimp toast “sandos.” Meat lovers will be happy to hear that the owners are also opening a second Wayward Smokehouse location just next door to the new shucking spot.

Cava: Speaking of White Marsh, the area will soon welcome a new location of this Greek-inspired fast-casual eatery—which is slated to open in the Nottingham Commons shopping center later this year. The DIY spot allows diners to customize their salads and grain bowls with add-ons such as falafel, harissa honey chicken, grilled meatballs, pickled onions, cabbage slaw, and the brand’s spicy Crazy Feta spread.

OPEN

Chatime: For city dwellers, authentic bubble tea can be hard to come by. (QQ Boba recently closed on the Avenue in Hampden, and Bambao isn’t slated to open in Harbor East until later this month.) But this global tea franchise has a proven track record with more than 1,000 shops operating everywhere from Taiwan to Australia. The second Chatime location in Maryland has officially opened its doors in the space between Lucky Fortune and Knockout Fitness on Light Street in Federal Hill. Of course, the shop’s focus is boba—the trendy Taiwanese milk tea enhanced with flavored jellies and chewy tapioca balls—but it also offers fruit smoothies, fresh-brewed coffees, and lattes topped with a savory mousse. Current specials include a pumpkin-spice tea and a pink strawberry yogurt smoothie honoring Breast Cancer Awareness Month.

SHUT (FOR THE SEASON)

Raw & Refined: After its inaugural summer season at the Lighthouse Point Marina in Canton (read a full review in our October issue on newsstands now), this seafood-centric spot will be open for private events only until the warm weather resumes in April 2020. “We are thrilled with the success R&R enjoyed this summer and want to be really intentional about how we not only maintain our momentum, but build upon it,” said owner and operator Dominic Lascola, in a press release. “We’re diving into planning and preparing for our next outdoor season while remaining the coolest little event space in the city until we ramp back up in the spring.” For now, the R&R culinary team will be headquartered at sister property El Bufalo Tequila Bar & Kitchen on Canton Square, where they will be customizing menus for private parties at R&R throughout the fall and winter.

COMING SOON

Limoncello: The swanky Anthem House apartment and retail complex in Locust Point recently announced yet another restaurant tenant. Joining the likes of craft beer and coffee spot Amber and Korean fried chicken destination Jazz + Soju will be Limoncello, a casual Italian trattoria and wine bar whose flagship is in St. Michaels. Slated to open in summer 2018, the 120-seat restaurant will feature fresh seafood, an array of pastas (everything from gorgonzola gnocchi to penne caprese), and classic Neapolitan pizzas inspired by the Amalfi Coast. 900 E. Fort Ave.

Chez Hugo: It’s been a few weeks since French-born chef Steve Monnier turned over the former Arômes space in Hampden to chef Chris Amendola. (Amendola’s green-themed spot Foraged debuted in the space on Chestnut Avenue last week.) Since the transition, Monnier has been hard at work setting up his new 4,000-square-foot restaurant, Chez Hugo, which will open downtown at the corner of Calvert and Redwood streets next month. Featuring an open kitchen with its own hearth oven, the bistro will be divided into a 60-seat dining room, eight-seat tasting room, and 15-seat bar—which will be helmed by beverage director Adam Litchfield and serve French beers and cocktails. The space will have a belle époque vibe, and highlight Monnier’s rotating menu of French classics like duck a l’orange and aged prime rib with pomme soufflé. Chez Hugo will open with a special tasting menu for dinner service on Valentine’s Day. Stay tuned for more details. 206 E. Redwood St.

Waffie: Just when we thought Hampden had everything (from pizza and pasta to tacos and bubble tea), The Avenue will soon boast its own dessert waffle spot. Slated to debut later this month, the new shop from owners Minje Suh and Tommy Choe will feature handheld Liege-style waffles that diners can customize with toppings like buttercream, jam, and cookie butter. To wash down the eats, Waffie will also offer an array of coffees and hot chocolate. 839 W. 36th St.

CH-CH CHANGES

Ampersea: Best known for its sustainable focus and partnership with The Living Classrooms Foundation, Waterfront Kitchen in Fells Point has long been a destination for a seasonal harborside meal. But now, a major facelift is in the works at the property. Owner Chuck Nabit has enlisted the help of Fells Point designers PI.KL Studios and Seth Barkman of MiY Home to transform the space into Ampersea—a play on the word “ampersand” inspired by the restaurant’s community-focused vision. The new concept will be headed by chef Nelson Morton, most recently of Bookmaker’s, whose menu will offer Maryland classics such as Suckling Pig with pickled apples, and lump crab cakes with homemade tater tots and greenhouse greens. Although the theme will change, the restaurant will maintain its hyper-local spirit—with murals by local artist Kelly Walker—and preserve its ties to Living Classrooms’ urban farming programs. In fact, Ampersea also plans to open an accompanying outdoor cafe in the courtyard of Living Classrooms’ Frederick Douglass-Isaac Myers Maritime Park in the summer of 2018. 1417 Thames St., 443-681-5310

EPICUREAN EVENTS

1/15: Noodle and Dumpling Night at Wet City
Next week, The Local Fry owners Kevin and Elizabeth Irish are taking over Wet City for an evening of ramen and dumplings. Retreat from the cold temperatures and warm your soul by slurping down miso (yuksu bone broth, shiro miso, thick wavy noodles and sesame pork belly) or budae jigae (hot dog, thick noodles, spam, bean sprouts, and soft egg) ramen. There will also be plenty of pork, vegetarian, and shrimp dumplings to go around. Wet City, 223 W. Chase St., 6-10 p.m.

1/15: Haenyo Pop-Up at Dylan’s Oyster Cellar
This Korean-fusion pop-up is back at it, this time putting its own spin on the Mid-Atlantic dishes at Dylan’s Oyster Cellar in Hampden. Make your way over to the corner spot to feast on locally sourced offerings such as Korean spicy crab soup, clam pajeon, shrimp dumplings, and warm seaweed salad. All dishes will range between $8-20. Dylan’s Oyster Cellar, 3601 Chestnut Ave., 5-10 p.m. 

1/18: Origins: A Speaker Series
Spike Gjerde’s sustainable speaker series returns next week with special guest Michael Twitty, a culinary historian whose book The Cooking Gene delves into the true roots of Southern cooking. Listen to Twitty share stories of his research and travels before sitting down for a family-style meal in Artifact’s private dining room. Artifact Coffee, 1500 Union Ave., 6:30 p.m., $60. 

SHUT

Ryan’s Daughter: St. Patrick’s Day won’t be the same this year without this Belvedere Square pub, which will pour its final pints on January 21. For the past 14 years, the bar has been a gathering place for Irish eats, pints of beer, and game-day watch parties. Management took to Facebook to announce the closure earlier today, hinting that a new venture is on the horizon. “We see it as a chance to start something else, and we might see you sooner than you think in another location,” the post reads. “From day one, we wanted the pub to serve as a place where friends and neighbors would feel at home—we feel that was accomplished.” 600 E. Belvedere Ave.