[Editor’s Note: This piece was published as part the cover story “Behold the COVID Buying Boom,” for our April 2021 issue, on newsstands now.]

It was just over a year ago that the world seemed to come to a screeching halt. One day parents were driving their kids to baseball practice, and the next they were hoarding toilet paper and creating Zoom accounts.

As the country erupted into panic and confusion those first few days in mid-March, three Mt. Washington neighbors started texting each other. Sam DuFlo, owner of Indigo Physiotherapy, wrote the first group message on March 15, 2020, to Samantha Claassen, proprietor of Golden West Café, and Vanessa Pikler, a Baltimore-based psychologist. They decided they needed a community meeting and invited everyone who lived along the alley behind Rogers Avenue and Greenberry Road. Seven families showed up.

“We all stood in a big circle six feet apart,” recalls Pikler. “We didn’t even know masks were important at that point.”

The meeting was simply to acknowledge the fact they were in this together. The neighbors made a promise, offering to pick up groceries, help with medical questions (like where someone could procure a COVID test), walk dogs, and look out for each other, especially the older residents on their block, using a Facebook page and group text. With their calendars suddenly wiped clean and the state in lockdown, they had nothing but time and energy to put toward each other.

Under normal circumstances—even in a place like friendly “Smalltimore”—the majority of neighbors see each other mostly in passing. Pleasant but brief interactions—a wave, a quick hello while walking the dog, a commiseration over bad weather—are the most we can hope for as we run from soccer games to dinner reservations to work meetings to theater performances to vacations.

Stopping to chat meant being late for something. But all of a sudden, everyone’s world shrunk to include only their house, and for sanity’s sake, their street and their neighbors.

“A shared crisis has a way of galvanizing relationships,” says Pikler.

It’s something we’ve witnessed all over this city. In the Jones Valley townhouse community, Jeremy Steinhorn arranged for weekly food trucks to come to his Pikesville neighborhood, a gesture that both supported struggling businesses and created an opportunity for folks to do something that felt normal.

In Towson, more than 1,000 paper lanterns snaked through the Stoneleigh neighborhood in early January as a way of getting neighbors out of their houses and safely interacting with each other. A month earlier in Rodgers Forge, Christmas lights were strung between homes, creating a magical canopy and festooned with a simple but weighty message fashioned from rope lights and coat hangers: “Love Lives Here.”

Kim Morton, who inspired the first string of lights, wrote in a Baltimore Sun op-ed, “These lights are a visible sign of the connections between our families. You need to know your neighbor pretty well to be able to climb on the roof, feed extension cords through windows, drill hooks in the brick, and guide the lights between the trees. Our kids created the term ‘neighbor family’ to describe our relationship to the neighbors on our block.”

That sentiment made its way to Rogers Avenue, too. Early on in the pandemic, as Pikler got ready to celebrate her husband’s birthday, the family’s first in lockdown, she had an idea. “Would you mind coming out to your back porch or balcony and singing ‘Happy Birthday?’” she texted to the neighborhood group. And they did just that, serenading her surprised spouse as he was walked down the alley. (A tradition that has continued for other neighborhood birthdays.)

The Piklers have also hosted two driveway concerts, hiring the Ricky Wise Trio to scratch that live music itch. They invited the whole alley, and almost everyone showed up, dragging lawn chairs from their yards and spacing themselves out. “We all live busy lives, and yet this has really made us want to take care of each other and build a community,” says Pikler.

The same is true for James and Jennifer Evans and their next door neighbors Matt and Amanda Hall. Early on, the Rodgers Forge families decided to create a “quarantine pod.” Sure, it helped to have their kids occupied with each other while both families navigated working from home and virtual school, but it became so much more. The families—with five kids among them, ranging in age from 3 to 12—started moving beyond playdates to spend holidays and birthdays together, too.

“As each holiday came and went, we became really close,” says Jennifer. “Family was replaced with next door neighbors, but we soon found out they were interchangeable.”

Last summer, the Evans family started a chalk wall on their garage. On it, Jennifer writes every major event the families have celebrated together during the pandemic—birthdays, Easter, Memorial Day, Fourth of July, Halloween, and now, Easter again.

“While scientists rushed to find a vaccine to fight COVID-19, we found an equally important relief for the virus’ side effects,” says James. “Loving and thoughtful neighbors.”

And sometimes that neighborhood has widened to people who’ve never even met. A month into the pandemic, labor and delivery nurse Jessica Butta was getting in her car in Canton, wearing her bright teal scrubs, when a car pulled up alongside her and the driver got out.

“At first I was a little bit, ‘Ohhh God,’” she remembers. “Are you a nurse or a doctor?” he inquired. She said she was on her way to her shift at Hopkins Bayview when he handed her 40 dollars in cash. “I just want to thank you so much for everything. Your dinner tonight is on me,” the stranger told her. Butta started crying as the man got back in his car and drove off. She went into work and that night treated all her coworkers to Chick- fil-A. “I have felt the love from friends and the community,” says Butta, though it was the generosity of a stranger that really overwhelmed her.

For Amit Peled, a world-renowned cellist, the pandemic turned his Pikesville neighbors, many of whom he didn’t know, into an audience. One warm day, Peled, who acknowledges that he “selfishly missed” being on stage, took his chair and cello and sat in his driveway and started to play. People stopped, listened, and immediately asked when he would play again. The next weekend his crowd had doubled.

“Everyone thought with classical music you have to be quiet,” says Peled. But he told them, “Please talk, move around.”

Often an Amazon truck would stop and deliver a package in the middle of a piece. The Peabody Institute at Johns Hopkins University professor invited some of his students to join in the driveway concerts, too. “Without my cello, I’m quite shy,” says Peled. But the concerts offered him a chance to speak to almost everyone in the neighborhood.

A cold snap forced Peled inside his garage (since his 1695 cello, made by Italian master Giovanni Grancino, can be quite temperamental).

“We think the acoustics are actually better in your garage,” more than one neighbor told him. Winter officially ended the outdoor concerts, but also opened up the opportunity for live streams. Acquaintances offered advice as to how his room should be lit and the proper camera angle.

“It’s become a neighborhood project,” says Peled. With local residents tuning in, as well as his parents from Israel and some of his 23,000 Facebook followers, they’ve become some of his best-attended performances.

And while Peled might be famous in the music world, his neighbors are keeping him grounded. “I checked you out on Spotify,” one bystander told him. “You sound much better in our neighborhood.”

One Sunday last June, Phil LaBarge spent the morning pulling weeds from the sidewalk outside of his Canton home to help out the elderly people on his block. Feeling inspired by the therapeutic cleanup, he treated himself to brunch at Of Love and Regret afterwards. Midway through his meal, the San Diego transplant realized he had stumbled upon a way to make friends and give back to his new city—thus, the Beautify Baltimore Brunch Club (B3C) was born.

“This is the seventh city I’ve lived in, and I’ve had to learn to network myself in every city,” says LaBarge, a district sales manager at FedEx. “When I moved here, I didn’t know anybody, and I was looking for a way to build a community again.”

Since he posted his idea for a cleanup-and-brunch club in Canton’s neighborhood Facebook group in June, the concept has grown into an association of more than 600 members. B3C’s premise is simple: Club members nominate blocks that need weeding and then vote on their next brunch destination. Then, every other Sunday in the warmer months, a team of volunteers spends the morning tidying up the block with self-funded tools before rewarding themselves with stacks of pancakes and mimosas.

Although it’s less than a year old, this do-good club has already earned local kudos, including winning the Patterson Park Neighborhood Association’s Community All Star Award and adding noteworthy members such as Maryland Delegate Robbyn Lewis.

“It’s been so great to see people’s reactions to our work,” says Chelsea Maloney, who has been a member of B3C since its second session. “But my favorite part has been all the new and truly wonderful human beings I’ve met through the club.”

As B3C continues to grow in its second year, LaBarge hopes that the club’s actions will inspire others to take care of Canton, too. “You always want to be happy and proud of where you live and feel like you’re contributing to your community,” LaBarge says.

In 92 square miles, Baltimore has more than 250 distinct neighborhoods, each incorporating its own unique architecture, characters, and cultures into our city’s sense of self. “We really are a neighborhood-based city,” says Johns Hopkins, director of Baltimore Heritage, citing Chicago’s 77 neighborhoods in a metropolis more than twice our size. “Having these dense, historic, rowhouse neighborhoods has helped create a sense of community.”

But what if these close-knit communities also have some intrinsic flaws? “There are really good things about having tight-knit neighborhoods,” says Hopkins, such as inciting enough civic pride in local residents to save Fells Point from death by a trifecta of highways, “but there can be some downsides, too.”

In the early 1800s, Baltimore’s neighborhoods were far more fluid—diverse in race, ethnicity, and even economic status, largely due to density in a smaller city. Ethnic concentrations did exist, but many wouldn’t take root until transportation advances such as streetcars allowed them to segregate.

By the mid-20th century, Baltimoreans “were definitely sticking to their own neighborhoods,” says University of Baltimore historian Betsy Nix, “not really mixing with people who weren’t their nationality, religion, or race,” which was further entrenched, of course, by the racist practices of redlining and blockbusting in the previous decades.

Some neighborhoods are now reckoning with this history head-on, like Bolton Hill—whose community association renamed itself in April to both acknowledge its exclusionary past and embrace its surrounding diversity—and Central West Baltimore—where for the past decade, the No Boundaries Coalition has been working to unify across race, class, and neighborhood. But “the legacy is still there today,” says Hopkins, “in how [some] neighborhoods look, in their demographic composition, and how much investment they have been able to attract over the last 50 or 60 years.”

“We’re no longer looking at just the four walls of the community we’re in,” says Thibault Manekin of Seawall Development, who is hoping to connect the company’s redevelopment success in Remington across I-83 to Reservoir Hill. “How can we open up our arms to the communities around us that haven’t had as much investment? How do we bring them in, so they feel that same sense of pride and ownership? Real estate, maybe more than anything on the planet, has the ability to unite.”

In other words, our neighborhoods should always remain a source of pride. But not too much pride. There’s a big city out there worth connecting with.

FORMSTONE

Once fashionable, this déclassé faux fieldstone remains an iconic symbol of blue-collar Baltimore, with the “polyester of brick,” as Waters once put it, still gracing façades like a badge of honor.

MARBLE STEPS

Born in a Baltimore County quarry in the 1800s, marble stoops long elicited a deep sense of pride, with residents making a ritual out of hand-scrubbing their steps on Saturday mornings.

PAINTED SCREENS

Pioneered here in the 1910s, this once-prolific urban folk art has become harder to come by, but keep your eyes peeled: it can still be found around Highlandtown, Little Italy, and Fells Point.

For more on Baltimore’s “Hidden Gem Neighborhoods,” pick up the April issue of Baltimore magazine, on newsstands now.

In the City

July 4: Visionary Pets on Parade: Dress your pet up, and come out for a fun filled pet-centric event. Activities include costume contests (most patriotic, most visionary, owner and pet look-alikes), pet musical chairs, a pet parade, and a most talented (and most not talented) competition. H20 and baggies included! 800 Key Hwy. 9:30 a.m. Free. 410-244-1900. avam.org.

July 4: The Glorious Fourth!…An Old Fashioned Fourth of July at Fort McHenry:Fort McHenry offers fife-and-drum music, cannon firing, a musket salute for 18 states, period dancing and games, and a public reading of the Declaration of Independence. 2400 E. Fort Avenue. 12-4:30 p.m. 410-962-4290. nps.gov/fomc.

July 4: Ports America Chesapeake Fourth of July Celebration: Baltimore’s premiere Fourth of July celebration includes music by country band Mason Vixon and the U.S. Naval Academy Electric Brigade, as well as an appearance by Mayor Stephanie Rawlings-Blake who will officially kick off the Independence Day celebration preceding the firework show! Inner Harbor. 4-10 p.m. Free. 410-752-8632. bop.org.

July 4: Top of the World Fourth of July Celebration: Take a sky-high view of the fireworks from Baltimore’s World Trade Center. Enjoy sliders, hot dogs, barbecue chicken and corn on the cob with open bar (beer and wine). 401 E. Pratt Street. 7-10 p.m. $30-75. 410-837-8439. viewbaltimore.org.

July 4: USS Constellation Museum’s Independence Day Deck Party Picnic: Overlook the Inner Harbor high above the crowds and enjoy a wonderful view of the fireworks. Look forward to plenty of backyard barbeque as well as an assortment of delicious local brew. Live music, special tours, cannon firings. Inner Harbor. 7-10 p.m. Free-$65. 410-539-1797. historicships.org. July 4: Baltimore Spirit Cruises: Experience the fireworks from the bay on a luxurious dining vessel! Featuring a buffet, interactive DJ, entertainment, and dancing. 561 Light Street. 7 p.m. $99.90. 866-312-2469.spiritcruisesbaltimore.com.

July 4: July 4th at The Baltimore Museum of Industry: Besides a great view of the fireworks, expect museum tours and other activities. Pack a snack or buy food in the pavilion. 1415 Key Highway. 6-10 p.m. $40-60 (per car). 410-727-4808 ext. 105.bmi.org.

July 4: Pier Party at the National Aquarium:Enjoy a great view of the fireworks and live entertainment. Bring a picnic basket or purchase snacks at the party. There is ample, unreserved seating. Entry into the aquarium will be permitted from 7 to 8:30 p.m. Children under 16 must be accompanied by a paying adult. 7-10 p.m. (admission to aquarium: 7-8:30) $15-40. 410-727-3474. aqua.org.

In the County

July 4: 32nd Annual Kingsville Independence Parade: Since 1980, the Kingsville Parade has been an exclusively volunteer-run effort to commemorate our nation’s independence. Features pre-parade music and other festivities. Parade starts at the Fire Company and proceeds on Bradshaw Road to Jerusalem Road, ending at St. Paul’s Lutheran Church. 11601 Bellvue Ave. 9:30 a.m. 410-592-7385. kingsvilleparade.org.

July 4: Towson 4th of July Parade: Follow the parade on Bosley and Burke Avenues. 10:30 a.m. 410-832-2190. towsonparade.org.

July 3-5: Star-Spangled Spectacular: Join the BSO at Oregon Ridge Park for an independence day extravaganza featuring Tchaikovsky’s 1812 Overture, Sousa’s Stars and Stripes Forever and more, choreographed to an amazing fireworks display! Plus hear the BSO’s Oh, Say Can You Sing contest winner perform the national anthem. Oregon Ridge Park, Cockeysville. 8 p.m. $9-18. 410-783-4000. bsomusic.org.

July 4: The Dundalk Heritage Fair Parade and Fireworks: This year’s 78th annual Dundalk Heritage Fair Parade’s theme is “Welcome Home Our Troops.” The fair’s mission is to support and reinforce the tremendous patriotism of the Greater Dundalk Community. North Point Government Center. 8:15 a.m. Fireworks begin at 9:15 p.m. Free-$5. 410-284-4022. dundalkheritagefair.org.

Eats on the Fourth

RUSTY SCUPPER The harbor-side restaurant celebrates with an all-you-can-eat crab feast, featuring a buffet of jumbo crabs, steamed shrimp, hot dogs, hamburgers, fried chicken, barbecue ribs, corn on the cob, a variety of salads, assorted desserts, watermelon, and more. Diners with reservations will have their table for five hours and be able to watch the fireworks display. Regular dinner service is also available in the main dining room. Buffet: $89.95, adults; $35, kids 10 and under; tax and gratuity not included. 402 Key Hwy., 410-727-3678.

TEN TEN Enjoy a three-course, prix-fixe menu, featuring dishes like grilled watermelon, pan-roasted pork porterhouse, and a grilled banana split, indoors or on the restaurant’s outdoor patio. 4-9:45 p.m. $40; $55 with beer pairings. 1010 Fleet St., 410-244-6867.

THE WINE MARKET The Locust Point spot offers a $30 prix-fixe menu or à la carte options, including a watermelon margarita snow cone for adults. After dinner, chairs will be set up on the parking lot for the fireworks. Opens at 4 p.m. 921 E. Fort Ave., 410-244-6166.

WIT & WISDOM, A TAVERN BY MICHAEL MINA With prime views of Baltimore’s fireworks display, the restaurant offers a pig roast, hot-dog cart, grilled corn, barbecued brownies, a selection of beverages, and more. The event also features a Bruce Springsteen cover band and activities for kids, including face painting, temporary tattoos, and balloons. 5:30-9:30 p.m. $75, adults; $20, kids under 15. Four Seasons Baltimore, 200 International Dr., 410-576-5800.

If you talked to any Joe Schmo on the street about the best neighborhoods in Baltimore, they’d list the usual suspects: Canton, Federal Hill, Fells Point, Hampden. And while all of those are wonderful areas, and certainly popular for a reason, we wanted to feature some of the unheralded spots in our region. Many of these areas feel like the neglected step-children of their more popular counterparts, but there are plenty of reasons to celebrate these ’hoods on the rise— whether it’s affordable real estate, adorable mom-and-pop shops, undiscovered art scenes, or fantastic summer events.

As the weather gets warmer, it’s a great time to explore outdoor concerts, local parks, and summer festivals, whether as a visitor or future resident. We urge you to take a closer look at the Baltimore metro area because what you find might surprise you.

*Statistics from 2010 U.S. Census except where noted.

Ashburton

Population: 2,520 Median home price: $152,000 Own-to-rent ratio: 71.7 to 28.3 percent Miles from downtown Baltimore: 4.5*

Since the mid-’50s, Ashburton has been the home base for Baltimore’s African-American elite. It has produced generations of civic leaders including Mayor Stephanie Rawlings-Blake, who grew up in the neighborhood, and former Mayor Kurt Schmoke. Even one of Mayor Rawlings-Blake’s recent challengers, Catherine Pugh, calls the petite district north of Liberty Heights Avenue, east of Callaway Avenue, south of Sequoia Avenue, and west of Hilton Road, home. Full of older, well-kept homes on large lots with mature trees, Ashburton recalls parts of Cedarcroft or even Mt. Washington (though much less hilly). Nearby Lake Ashburton in Hanlon Park has a walking path around the reservoir that gets plenty of use while just a little farther down the road is Druid Hill Park, containing the Maryland Zoo in Baltimore and the Howard Peters Rawlings Conservatory and Botanic Gardens of Baltimore, which is named after Mayor Rawlings-Blake’s late dad, state Delegate Howard Peters “Pete” Rawlings, who died in 2003. Ashburtonites take their horticulture seriously, and the For-Win-Ash Garden Club (named for the communities of Forest Park, Windsor Hills, and Ashburton) is still very active. Every other year, it hosts a garden tour, but sadly, this is an off year. The recent renovation of Mondawmin Mall has given area retail a boost with a new Target, a Forever 21, and several other clothing stores, now open.

Events:

The Howard Peters Rawlings Conservatory offers weekly classes sure to please green thumbs. On May 5, learn how to create a succulent garden.

The Maryland’s Zoo’s Brew at the Zoo event—two days of craft and local beer sampling and live music—is May 26-27.

Get your engine running at the 2nd annual Druid Hill Auto and Motorcycle Extravaganza, August 25 from 9 a.m.-6 p.m.

Browse the offerings at the city’s newest farmers’ market every Wednesday evening from June through September at the Rawlings Conservatory.

Butchers Hill

Population: 1,889, Median home price: $250,000, Own-to-rent ratio: 51.1 to 48.9 percent, Miles from downtown Baltimore: 1.4

What used to be home to affluent German and Jewish butchers is now home to a diverse cross-section of the city. Butchers Hill is at the northwest end of Patterson Park, bounded by Fayette Street on the north, Patterson Park Avenue on the east, Pratt Street on the south, and Washington Street on the west. A mix of artists, Hopkins employees, students, and empty-nesters now reside in the neighborhood’s oversized brick row houses. Many of the wide, three-story houses are quite affordable for their size, making them attractive to rehabbers. One example of what can be done with these houses is Blue Door on Baltimore, a bed-and-breakfast that opened in 2007. The B&B offers a soothing experience for guests, many of whom are visiting because of nearby The Johns Hopkins Hospital. In fact, a main draw for Butchers Hill residents is its close proximity to Hopkins, Patterson Park, and Fells Point. But you don’t have to leave the confines of the neighborhood to experience urban culture, with places like neighborhood bar The Life of Reilly, which serves up authentic Irish cuisine. If something more upscale is your scene, there is Salt Tavern, which offers fare like duck-fat fries and Kobe-beef sliders in a modern setting. For a quick cup of coffee and a pastry, head over to Water for Chocolate. (Bonus: the shop’s iced drinks have coffee ice cubes so they don’t get watered down.) Then there is also, of course, the natural beauty of the city’s largest park right next door, with tennis and basketball courts, jogging and biking trails, and constant summer festivals.

Baltimore’s Backyard

While many houses surrounding the park don’t have big backyards, there is plenty of green space—–137 acres to be exact—–in adjacent Patterson Park. Here is just a sampling of things to do.

Splish Splash – The pool in Patterson Park is one of the city’s many great, affordable public pools. Pool season starts in June and runs through the last Sunday in August. There’s a lap pool, toddler water-play area, and adult swim times—–all for just $1.50 a visit.

Play Time – Although there are two playgrounds in the park, the one near Eastern Avenue between S. Milton and S. Montford Avenues may be the coolest in the city. Built in 2005, the playground pays tribute to city landmarks—–with row houses, a Bromo-Seltzer clock tower, and a gazebo that looks like the old park’s music pavilion.

Game On – Any athlete would feel at home, whether enjoying the park’s almost three miles of biking and walking trails, 10 tennis courts, four full-sized basketball courts, various multi-use fields, or the rink open for hockey in the winter and broomball in the summer.

Great Lake – Almost smack dab in the middle of the park is its boat lake, which is a combination of open water and wetland habitat for fish, waterfowl, and birds. The lake is great for fishing, wildlife viewing, or just an afternoon of feeding bread to the ducks.

Events

Butchers Hill Flea Market and Craft Fair, located by the pagoda in Patterson Park, is the ultimate treasure trove for the bargain hunter. Tip: Get there early, as the seasoned residents of the neighborhood don’t sleep on this one. May 12, 9 a.m.-3 p.m.

PNC Concerts in Patterson Park run Tuesdays and Sundays throughout the summer. Grab a blanket and a picnic dinner while you listen to everything from salsa and reggae to bluegrass and funk. June 10 and 26; July 8, 17, 31; August 7 and 19, all at 6:30 p.m. (Rain dates are the following Wednesday.)

Latino Fest, one of many ethnic festivals celebrated in the park, is probably the most well attended. With authentic Latino music and delicious food, this annual outdoor party is a big draw for residents of all ethnicities. June 23, 12-10 p.m., and 24, 12-9 p.m. 

Dickeyville

Population: 156 Median home price: $307,500 Own-to-rent ratio: 96.4 to 3.6 percent Miles from downtown Baltimore: 6.2

If you asked a 10-year-old to draw a picture of a storybook village, he or she would probably produce something closely resembling Dickeyville, a National Register Historic Preservation District on the western edge of Baltimore City. A cluster of 138 homes and buildings nestled along narrow, winding streets north of Windsor Mill Road, west of Wetherdsville Road, east of the city-county line, and south of Purnell Drive, Dickeyville got its start as a 19th-century mill village powered by the adjacent Gwynns Falls. Residents take extreme pride in preserving their nabe with not one but two governing bodies overseeing its architectural integrity. (White houses can only be repainted white; shutters are encouraged to be either black or dark green.) But all this enforced quaintness pays off with high home values and a close-knit community. The Dickeyville Garden Club, founded in 1940, hosts multiple community events throughout the year including a spring plant sale and autumn cook-off and bonfire. One of the best perks of living in Dickeyville is its proximity to Gwynns Falls-Leakin Park, a roughly 1,000-acre tract containing walking and biking trails, tennis courts, the Carrie Murray Nature Center, and Orianda House, a 19th-century Italianate mansion. There’s also the nearby 18-hole Forest Park Golf Course, with greens’ fees starting as low as $9.50.

Events:

This year’s Horticultural Society of Maryland’s Garden Tour will offer a peek behind the picturesque picket fences and stone walls of Dickeyville. June 3, 10 a.m.-4 p.m.

Dickeyville takes the Fourth of July seriously with a multiple-day celebration featuring a community dinner dance (June 30), brunch (July 1), and, of course, parade and picnic (July 4).

April through November, Friends of Gwynns Falls Leakin Park hosts Second Sunday in the Park, a day of free activities including guided hikes, tours of Orianda House, and free miniature train rides! 11 a.m.-3 p.m.

Hampstead

Population: 6,323 Median home price: $265,000 Own-to-rent ratio: 74.3 to 22.3 percent Miles from downtown Baltimore: 27.1

Hampstead is a Carroll County town just 30 miles northwest of Baltimore that seems straight out of another time. Main Street is reminiscent of quintessential small-town America, with an old-time police station and great antiquing. There are many sprawling farmhouses on Mt. Carmel Road and along Route 30, but also some beautiful Colonial houses built in the 1800s along Main Street. The central avenue of town also boasts quaint shops like Linens and Lace Tea Room, where you can find girls of all ages having tea parties, or independent floral shop Petals Flowers & Gifts. While there isn’t much for fine dining, there are certainly charming restaurants, like the 50-year-old Dean’s Restaurant, which feels like eating at your grandmother’s house with homemade desserts and delicious corn fritters. For a more casual atmosphere, there is Greenmount Station, known for its crab cakes and sports-bar atmosphere. And every great small town needs a diner, so Hampstead Diner is the spot where locals chow down on sausage gravy and chipped beef while they shoot the breeze about politics and gossip. For fresh produce, there is a farmers’ market at the fire station every Saturday starting on June 9. Plus, right in town, there’s a huge water park Cascade Lake, which is a six-acre, spring-fed lake with a roped-off area for swimming that includes various waterslides and platforms. For the history buffs, there’s a war memorial on Main Street and there are also several historic signs throughout the town marking different Civil War battles as people make their way up to Gettysburg, about an hour north.

Events:

Hampstead Day is a day to celebrate the town where they close off Main Street and feature nearly 150 vendors with kiddie rides, music, and food. May 19, 8 a.m.-4 p.m.

A Month of Sundays Summer Concert Series takes place in nearby Westminster City Park where, every Sunday in July, people bring their lawn chairs and picnic baskets to enjoy country, rockabilly, or Motown. Starting July 1, 6:45-9 p.m.

Hampstead Fire Company Carnival is a six-day event to celebrate the town’s volunteer fire company with a parade in their honor, as well as food, games, and entertainment. August 13-18, 6-11 p.m.

Knettishall

Population: 1,176 Median home price: $198,700 Own-to-rent ratio: 88 to 8.7 percent Miles from downtown Baltimore: 8*
*Statistics courtesy of Cummings & Co. Realtors.

Many people don’t even know how to pronounce this neighborhood (net-a-shawl), let alone know where it is. But, you probably drive by this Towson ’hood all the time since it’s located near Parkville, just west of Loch Raven Boulevard and south of Joppa Road. While it looks like a quintessential county suburb, the real estate is more affordable than its West Towson peers, but with all of the same space in its single-family homes. The ’40s and ’50s brick row homes are reminiscent of downtown architecture, but with the added bonus of front and backyards. Plus, shopping is a breeze with the walking-distance Towson Marketplace, which features stores like like Target, Marshalls, and Wal-Mart. There are plenty of local stalwarts within a stone’s throw, including Johnny Dee’s Lounge, which is a cavernous restaurant that pays tribute to the Colts and also has renowned shrimp salad. Just recently, there was some excitement when Gino’s Burgers opened right up the street, bringing the classic burger back to Baltimore. The cherished ’50-style Bel-Loc Diner and seafood haven Crackpot Restaurant are also close by. And don’t count out The Raven Inn, a dive bar beloved to the locals with entertaining bartenders and great deals on seafood. But a big part of the neighborhood demographic is families, who, most days, can be found enjoying the Pleasant Plains Elementary School playground. For even more space to roam, there is nearby Cromwell Valley Park, which boasts 380 acres of wetlands, meadows, gardens, and a farm right in the center of it, which is known for its organic methods. If organic is your thing, be sure to swing by the neighborhood’s farm stand on Putty Hill Avenue that runs every day in the spring, summer, and fall.

Events:

Towsontown Spring Festival is celebrating its 45th year and will feature four days of live music, beer gardens, carnival games, and countless vendors. May 3 (10 a.m.-3 p.m.), May 4 (5:30-9 p.m.), May 5 (10 a.m.-7 p.m.), and May 6 (1-7 p.m.).

Arts in the Park. This festival in Cromwell Valley Park showcases local fine artists, crafters, writers, and musicians. Also on hand are food, wine, and classic cars. May 12, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.; May 13, 12-5 p.m.

Fourth of July is a pretty big deal in this neighborhood. The fireworks at the former Luskins building are now put up right down the street. Residents can walk down to Pleasant Plains Elementary with chairs and picnic baskets to take in the view. July 4.

Lauraville-Hamilton

Population: 13,903 (combined), Median home price: $159,900 (Lauraville), $150,000 (Hamilton), Own-to-rent ratio: 73.5 to 26.5 percent (Lauraville), 48.6 to 51.4 percent (Hamilton), Miles from downtown Baltimore: 5.1

This hyphenated hamlet is really two neighborhoods tied together by the unifying thread of Harford Road’s business district, which starts in Lauraville just north of Argonne Drive and continues up through Hamilton to Northern Parkway. Quiet, tree-lined streets boasting a mix of bungalows, Foursquares, and farmhouses shoot off the main thoroughfare offering suburban ambiance within the city. Of course, these days, the area is probably best known for its many culinary hotspots (see sidebar). But the affordability of the neighborhood and its strong public and charter schools—–including Hamilton Elementary/Middle School, City Neighbors Hamilton, and City Neighbors High School—–also attracts many young families who can be found browsing the excellent selection of children’s books at Red Canoe Bookstore Café, playing in rec leagues at Herring Run Park, or biking around Lake Montebello. Parents can also enroll their budding thespians in classes at the Performance Workshop Theatre or drop off their tiny dancers at Mid-Atlantic Center for the Performing Arts, a ballet and contemporary dance studio. Mommy and daddy can have fun, too, at Charmed Life, an art gallery and tattoo parlor or at The Chop Shop, a hair salon with a 20-seat movie theater, which owner Lisa Hawks rents out for events. Downstairs from The Chop Shop is Blue Spark Barbershop, home of Bill the Barber, whose in-demand cuts start at $16. And just down the street is Beth’s DIY Workshop, where founder Beth Dellow provides space, tools, and training for do-it-yourselfers.

Destination Dining

If someone had said 10 years ago that Harford Road would become one of Baltimore’s hottest dining destinations, you would have laughed. But, now, you can eat your way from one end to the other. In fact, we recommend you do.

Fine Dining – The strip’s two highest-profile restaurants are Hamilton’s Clementine, which serves upscale comfort food and The Chameleon, which opened in Lauraville in 2001, way before Harford Road was cool.

Casual Dining – Enjoy the hefty crab cake at Koco’s Pub. The recently opened Tooloulou is favored for its Cajun cusine. Hamilton Tavern keeps ’em coming back with a seasonal menu of pub favorites. Los Amigos turns out traditional Mexican food. Big Bad Wolf’s House of Barbecue has excellent meats and sides. And the two local diners—–Lost in the 50’s and Valentino’s—–crank out classic eats, the latter 24/7.

Markets/Groceries – The Tuesday Market in Lauraville sells from June through October. Clementine’s chef/owner, Winston Blick, is opening Green Onion, a grocery which will sell Clementine prepared foods (such as their beloved charcuterie) and other comestibles. Get your daily bread at Hamilton Bakery.

Cafes – Lauraville is home to Zeke’s Coffee, which brews nearly 50 different roasts at its plant and sells them a few blocks away in a coffee shop. Try a cup with an award-winning muffin from Red Canoe Bookstore Café.

Events

The Blue Water Berry Festival in Herring Run Park is a taste of summer with barbecue, music, vendors, and a native-dessert contest. June 23, 12-4 p.m.

The 19th Annual Hamilton Street Festival & Classic Car Show goes down July 28 and features a soapbox derby. 11 a.m.-7 p.m.

First Fridays offer visual and performing arts at galleries including Hamilton Arts Collective, Studio 55, and The Hamilton Gallery. Year-round.

Locust Point

Population: 2,138 Median home price: $292,500 Own-to-rent ratio: 70.8 to 29.2 percent Miles from downtown Baltimore: 2.7

Locust Point, the neighborhood once home to dock workers and their families, still has the industrial feel with its waterfront factories and Formstone houses. But, while the South Baltimore ’hood (with Lawrence Street to the west and the Patapsco River to the north, south, and east) held onto its blue-collar roots longer than its nearby compatriots, it also has new developments making it extremely attractive to homebuyers. Of course, there’s the behemoth condo complex Silo Point with its 360-degree views, swanky residences, and upscale restaurants. There’s also the Locust Point Dog Park on the corner of Latrobe Park, which has fancy amenities like Astroturf, rock features, and a doggie waterslide. And there is the former Tide Point campus, which just got bought by Fortune 500 company Under Armour, and features a waterfront boardwalk for jogging or yoga. Plus, there’s a free water taxi service on weekdays from the promenade over to Fells Point. And one of the newest establishments is shopping center McHenry Row, featuring the innovative Harris Teeter, where people from all over the city come to grocery shop. But you can’t ignore Locust Point standbys like the quaint, windowless J. Patrick’s Irish Pub, which features live Irish music multiple nights a week. There’s also the neighborhood bistro (and cleverly named) Hull Street Blues Café, which started as a saloon in 1889 and has a fantastic Sunday brunch. And don’t count out sports bar City Limits with its huge shuffleboard table and fresh-squeezed orange crushes. Also, if you want to get quite the waterfront vista (including the Under Armour and Domino Sugar signs), you should crack open some crabs on the roofdeck of L.P. Steamers. For the kids, there is spacious Latrobe Park with its tulip-lined pathways and large gated playground—–and they can cool off by visiting “Miss Twist,” who drives her turquoise ice-cream truck around the neighborhood delivering sweet treats. And lastly, while it’s no secret, the proximity to nearby Fort McHenry is an added bonus for any history buff.

Events:

Community Yard Sale, Find all the tchotchkes and antiques you want at the neighborhood’s annual yard sale in Latrobe Park. June 2, 8 a.m.-12 p.m.

Federal Hill Jazz & Blues Festival, in nearby Federal Hill, will feature more than 12 bands on two stages, as well as arts and crafts, food vendors, and kid games. June 3, 11 a.m.-7 p.m.

Star-Spangled Sailabration, the weeklong celebration to mark the War of 1812’s bicentennial, features many events in Locust Point, including an air show, public ship tours, and concerts and fireworks at Fort McHenry. June 13-19. starspangled200.com.

Remington

Population: 2,458 Median home price: $106,000 Own-to-rent ratio: 48.6 to 51.4 percent Miles from downtown Baltimore: 2.6

Those whose only pass through Remington on their way to or from I-83 are missing out. Bounded on the west by Sisson Street, the south by 21st Street, the east by N. Howard Street, and the north by Wyman Park, the ‘hood is a bastion of blue-collar Baltimore. In recent years though, Remington has been embraced by younger generations, eager to repurpose its vacant industrial spaces for their own artistic and altruistic functions. Perhaps the most notable example of this is Charm City Cakes, the bakery made famous on the Food Network’s Ace of Cakes reality show, filmed at its 6,000-square-foot compound at the corner of Remington Avenue and W. 30th Street. Across the street is one of Baltimore most-beloved bars, The Dizz, which sells Charm City Cakes merchandise for the tourists but lures locals with its excellent bar food and unpretentious atmosphere. The New Wyman Park Restaurant—–which is not new and actually a diner—–is similarly down to earth, while the neighborhood’s other diner, the Papermoon, ups the quirk-factor with its eclectic décor and menu. Locavores love the new Baltimore Food Co-op, which carries local produce and national brands like Annie’s Naturals and Kashi. For gluten-free goodies hit up bakery Sweet 27, and complement your guilt-free dessert with organic coffee or tea from Charmington’s, where the baristas can top your cup with milk-foam designs. Charmington’s is also notable for its location on the ground floor of Miller’s Court, an old tin-can factory renovated into state-of-the-art office, retail, and living spaces. Apartments are available to Baltimore-area schoolteachers at discounted rents, and office space is leased to nonprofits such as Teach for America and Playworks. But Remington hasn’t gone soft. Just across the street from Miller’s Court is the Ottobar, the city’s stalwart rock club that’s never met a mohawked musician it didn’t welcome. We just wonder what the punks think about the soon-to-be-built 25th Street Station shopping center, which will be anchored by, yes, a Wal-Mart.

Events:

As of June, the Baltimore Streetcar Museum is open both Saturday and Sunday from 12-5 p.m. Regular admission is $7 and includes unlimited rides on original Baltimore streetcars.

Wyman Park Dell will be ground zero for this year’s Charles Village Festival featuring live music, a 5K race, and a block party. June 2-3. The Ottobar hosts Insubordination Fest 2012, three days of prime underground punk, pop-punk, and power pop. June 21-23.

Sparks

Population: 5,544, Median home price: $559,000*, Own-to-rent ratio: 76.5 to 23.5 percent, Miles from downtown Baltimore: 17.6 (*Sparks median home price courtesy of Krauss Real Property Brokerage)

Sparks is a perfect slice of Maryland countryside in central Baltimore County. Though the community’s borders are somewhat amorphous, it is generally accepted that it encompasses land within a two-mile radius of I-83 north of Hunt Valley and south of Route 138/Monkton Road. It is an area of considerable natural beauty with rolling pastures sloping down to the winding Gunpowder River along which the 20-mile Torrey C. Brown Trail (aka the NCR trail) meanders, offering hiking, biking, horseback riding, and fishing. Before casting your line, stop by Great Feathers for your rods and reels and to ask the fly fishermen on staff what’s biting. Drive along Belfast, Sparks, and Lower and Upper Glencoe Roads for good views of the many working and gentlemen’s farms that dot the landscape. Make sure to swing through the Oldfields School campus, a picturesque all-girls private high school with a stellar equestrian program. Sparks also boasts the U.S. headquarters of sportswear giant FILA as well as offices of McCormick & Company. This combination of rusticity and sophistication is reflected in the neighborhood’s two main restaurants. First, there’s The Filling Station, an old gas station turned coffee shop serving delicious soups, salads, and sandwiches during the day. Then, there’s The Milton Inn, which offers fine dining housed in a circa 1740 fieldstone Colonial that was once an all-boys school whose pupils included John Wilkes Booth. During the summer, locals relax at Basignani Winery, a family-run vineyard that hosts frequent events.

Events

The MAC Half Marathon & Two-Person Relay takes over the NCR trail on May 19.

Basignani Winery has outdoor movie nights (including wine tasting and popcorn!) May 25, June 8 and 22, July 6 and 13, and August 3, 24, and 31.

Kids ages 6-12 will explore the Gunpowder River at Stream Search/Aquatic Exploration on June 23, 9-11 a.m.

West Annapolis

Population: 734 Median home price: $737,200 Own-to-rent ratio: 74.6 to 21.3 percent Miles from downtown Baltimore: 25.4*
*West Annapolis statistics courtesy of kcookehomes.com.

The New Annapolis

If you can’t afford to take that big trip this spring or summer, think about sticking closer to home with the ultimate “staycation” in Annapolis, only a half-hour drive away. Now more than ever, our state capital has exciting things going on. Here are just a few:

Test Your Luck
The first phase of Maryland Live! Casino at Arundel Mills—–which will feature 4,750 slot and electric table games, like blackjack, roulette, craps, and poker—–is scheduled for completion in June.

Wine and Dine
Wine bars are all the rage in the Annapolis area this year. Red Red Wine Bar on Main Street is a tough table to get with its funky, bohemian design. And Vin 909 in Eastport takes an organic, seasonal approach with its ever-changing menu.

Getting Around
Naptown went pretty green last summer with the introduction of two car-free ways to get around. Electric-bike shop Green Pedals moved to West Annapolis last summer. Also, the town’s new City Circulator trolley trots people from the various shops and restau-rants, all for $1 a ride.

Set Up Shop
The gargantuan Annapolis Towne Centre seems like it keeps expanding, but that doesn’t stop boutique shops and eclectic stores from making their mark—–everything from Poppy and Stella and Urban Chic to Paper Source and Charm City Run.

The peninsula northwest of downtown Annapolis has started to have an identity all its own. Separating itself from the preppy, naval stereotypes of the state capital, West Annapolis is a tiny, bohemian community. The hippie vibe is evident in the establishment of wellness centers like Ridgely Retreat, which offers advanced spa treatments, yoga and dance classes, and acupuncture. There is also West Annapolis Art Works, which has framing services and an eclectic gallery of pieces, like waterview paintings, political cartoons, and African sculptures. And, if you’re so inspired, there is supply store Art Things, stationery shop Pris’ Paper, and Tara’s Gifts for kitschy presents and party décor. For a quick bite, there’s the eco-friendly b.b. bistro, which uses only local and seasonal ingredients. For potent margaritas and huge portions, try Mexican Café. There’s also Regina’s Restaurant which features unlikely, but welcome, German cuisine. There are plenty of places to go antiquing in this small community, like Bon Vivant Antiques, which specializes in online sales, and West Annapolis Antiques, which features jewelry and furniture from estate sales. Spending a day browsing the shops along Annapolis Street makes you feel like you’re in a quaint New England town, instead of the heart of Maryland. But, of course, the Annapolis influence isn’t too far away as the Navy-Marine Corps Memorial Stadium is down the street and is jam-packed with football fans every fall. There are plenty of activities (and prime real estate) along the water, so many residents can be seen crabbing, kayaking, or sailing on the Severn River. The close-knit community seems like the best of many worlds—–a classic yet progressive small town with no shortage of things to do.

Events:

Cinco de Mayo is the town’s first celebration of this Mexican holiday. Look for margaritas and sangria, Latino music, and vendors selling their wares. May 5, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.

Paris Flea Market is a unique event where the town turns into a Parisian-style market, and they close off Annapolis Street and have residents buy a space and sell whatever old artifacts they want to get rid of. June 23, 8 a.m.-4 p.m.

Oktoberfest is the biggest West Annapolis event and will be celebrating its 22nd year. They close the street and have 140 vendors and feature German bands, beer, and food from Regina’s Restaurant. September 23, 10 a.m.-5 p.m.

Baltimore has always been a city of neighborhoods, every one a universe unto itself. Each section of our city has its own history, culture, and personality—an identity that can only be truly understood after years or generations of experience. For this story, we combined our own expertise with that of dozens of residents to create insiders’ guides to some of our greatest neighborhoods. So dog-ear pages, use these maps, and get exploring!

Canton

While still the destination of choice for young urban professionals looking for restaurants and nightlife, more of them are staying to get married and have kids.

Why I Love My Neighborhood by Patrick “Scunny” McCusker
Canton is like a small town they plucked out of the middle of suburbia and dropped into a city. The neighborhood has a real sense of itself, and a real sense of community. Plus, we have a waterfront for kayaking. We have a huge park for outdoor concerts. We have a lively square and tons of corner bars.

I opened Nacho Mama’s 18 years ago and, along with the owners of Looney’s, Claddagh, and Speakeasy, I’ve watched this neighborhood grow. When I first opened, a guy asked me why I was putting a Mexican restaurant in a Polish neighborhood. It’s grown from that old-school, working-class feel to a place where people are settling down with their kids and raising families.

I have original customers of mine bringing in their grandkids now—which is a testament to the fact that people don’t just live here, they stay here.

About the Writer
Patrick “Scunny” McCusker owns Nacho Mama’s and Mama’s on the Half Shell (2901 O’Donnell St.).

Insiders’ Tips

1. Watching the Charm City Roller Girls compete in roller-derby matches at DuBurns Arena (1301 S. Ellwood Ave.) is always a thrill, but when archrivals the Boston Derby Dames come to town, the intensity ratchets up a notch.
2. Walt’s Inn (3201 O’Donnell St.) has some of the best karaoke—and strongest Jell-O shots—in the city.
3. You can always run into 2910 on the Square (2910 O’Donnell St.) and get a funky present for just about anyone.
4. The pool at Patterson Park is one of the greatest deals in the city at $1.50. Go on weekdays to avoid the crowds.
5. Chesapeake Wine Co. (2400 Boston St.) is a perfect place to relax and enjoy some vino on a Sunday.
6. The off-leash, fenced-in space of the Canton Dog Park (3221 Toone St.) is as much a mingling spot for owners as it is for their pups.
7. The buffalo mushrooms at Annabel Lee Tavern (601 S. Clinton St.), a wonderfully cozy restaurant, are sublime. Get there early before it fills up.
8. Don’t miss Gloria’s storytelling and sing-alongs at Thursday’s “Mother Goose on the Loose” program at the Canton Pratt library (1030 S. Ellwood Ave.).
9. Personal trainer Jamie Samuel, owner of Kilo (2737 Dillon St.), gives an intense one-on-one workout guaranteed to whip you into shape.

Cockeysville

A boom in the gaming and tech industries of nearby Silicon Hunt Valley has given this lush suburb—chock full of great restaurants and country charm—new luster.

Why I Love My Neighborhood By Marc Steiner
I moved out to Sparks, just a little north of Hunt Valley, a few years ago because my wife loved it. I grew up a street-corner kid and my last address was on University Parkway, and now I’m surrounded by horse farms and sheep farms.

We live on a country lane, so we take four- or five-mile walks, and it’s like walking into the English countryside. When we moved out here, my 13-year-old laid down in the middle of the road, and said, “Can you imagine? I can lay down and not get run over.” You couldn’t do that on University Parkway.

It’s a different way of life. I buy most of our meat and our vegetables from the farms around us. There’s a great little place up the road called Soup’R Natural, where everyone is friendly and they use all local ingredients. We love Wegmans and Calvert Wines—you have to find your local wine store.

Sometimes I miss the city—I like the concrete, I like the noise—but it’s 22 minutes between my studio in Hampden and my house. In 22 minutes, I can go from the heart of the city to the heart of the country.

About the Writer
Marc Steiner hosts The Marc Steiner Show on WEAA.

Insiders’ Tips

1. Go to Hunt Cup, not for the horses but to peep the glorious outdoor spreads, many with candelabras and elaborate place settings.
2. Gourmet mega-store Wegmans (122 Shawan Rd.) is the multi-jeweled king of local markets, but its brightest gems are the cheese and tea departments, each with hundreds of specimens from all over the world.
3. Oregon Ridge Park (13555 Beaver Dam Rd.) is not only a great spot on the Fourth of July (when the BSO plays there), but a year-round kid wonderland with two sparkling playgrounds and a fantastic nature center.
4. The geeks in the area’s booming tech industry rave about the newly renovated Cockeysville library’s graphic novels selection (9833 Greenside Dr.), said to put the Enoch Pratt’s collection downtown to shame.
5. A tour, tasting, and picnic at Basignani Winery (15722 Falls Rd.), just up the road in Sparks, is a great way to spend a Saturday.
6. The local’s guide to BBQ: Andy Nelson’s (11007 Yord Rd.) for pulled pork, The Corner Stable (9942 York Rd.) for ribs.
7. Go hiking, biking, or jogging on the NCR Trail and then stop at Jackie and Joe’s (10 Fila Way) for great sandwiches and salads.

Ellicott City

Nestled on the banks of the Patapsco River, Ellicott City’s walkable 19th-century Main Street remains an uncommon draw for visitors seeking antiques, one-of-a-kind shops, cozy restaurants, and an escape from suburban sprawl.

Why I Love My Neighborhood by Cindi Ryland
I’ve been on Main Street for 15 years, and I still never know how my day is going to go, who is going to walk in, or what I’m going to learn. We have people coming from across Maryland, but also from the Carolinas, New York, Florida, and California. There are locals, too, of course, who come in all the time. We make friends with everybody and try to match people with our treasures.

Main Street has a real friendly atmosphere, and it’s a unique community, I think. We like the one-of-a-kind shop, where the owners are hands on and in the store, and the regular salespeople have been there forever. There’s talk of Subway opening a store—I don’t know whether that’d be good or bad for business—but a chain store wouldn’t fit with the ambiance.

The Ellicott City Restoration Foundation and the Howard County Historical Society do a terrific job helping downtown maintain its character, and we draw a lot of history buffs. My building dates from 1860 and was a harness shop and then a church. Like so many of the buildings, it’s in great shape.

Historic Ellicott City is a bit eccentric and eclectic—a true escape from the suburbs and the city.

About the Writer
Cindi Ryland owns Retropolitan Fine Antiques and Vintage.

Insiders’ Tips

1. Tea on the Tiber (8081 Main St.) is a genuine Brit teahouse. “My mother would’ve loved it,” says Diane Conway, a Gloucester native visiting her daughter on a recent Sunday.
2. Ed Crowl has been selling, repairing, and refinishing furniture at Wagon Wheel Antique Shop (8061 Tiber Alley) since 1974, and his shop is full of fascinating items like the wood and glass hearse dating to 1850.
3. Locals go to Envy Hair Salon (3723 Old Columbia Pike) not only for cuts and styles, but for Tuesday “tini” (martini) nights and Wednesday “brews and do’s.”
4. The collection of ’30s and ’40s vintage clothes and hats in the basement of Retropolitan Fine Antiques and
   Vintage (8227 Main St.) is a must-see.
5. Bella Bikes (8450 Baltimore National Pike) caters to women. Talk to Diana Smith about monthly tire-changing demos and women-only mountain biking trips at Patapsco State Park.
6. Nathan Sowers, co-owner of Little French Market Café (3744 Old Columbia Pike), bakes the baguettes for nearby French country restaurant Tersiguel’s. Visit the shop for sublime custard and chocolate-chip croissants.
7. Locals love the three fresh-roasted daily coffees and perfect quickie breakfast—warm granola with steamed milk, honey drizzle, and cinnamon—at Bean Hollow (8059 Main St.)
8. Babe Ruth got married at St. Paul’s Catholic Church (3755 St. Paul St.), dedicated in 1838. Stop by the parish office and they’ll show you copies of his wedding documents. 

Federal Hill

Steeped in history from port to fort (McHenry), Federal Hill is like a great pair of blue jeans: time-tested, comfortable, and eternally stylish.

Why I Love My Neighborhood by Amy Grace
When my partner and I moved to Federal Hill as empty-nesters from the suburbs in 1996, the neighborhood’s business district was struggling to define itself, rehabbing was just starting in the areas south of Cross Street Market, and collaboration between the local entrepreneurs and residents was scarce.

Then it all changed. Buildings got fresh coats of paint, new facades, and updated signage. Hospital executives started working side by side with homeless men to clean up trash on the sidewalks. Veteran store owners—some with businesses dating back more than 100 years—started mentoring new entrepreneurs to create a vibrant Main Street.

Lifelong residents began taking art classes with young artists at School 33. Parents and grandparents could be seen pushing young children on swings at Federal Hill Park. Book clubs, chili cook-offs, street festivals, and award-winning restaurants began popping up like dandelions in a spring lawn.

Federal Hill had become Baltimore’s “historically hip” place to call home, and, best of all, it had happened organically because residents—old and new, gay and straight, rich and poor, professional and blue-collar—had pride in the neighborhood’s past and a vision for its future.

About the Writer
Amy Grace is a board member of Federal Hill Main Street.

Insiders’ Tips

1. Joggers run the stairs, parents and kids flock to the playground, and everyone else basks in the best view of the city in the city at Federal Hill Park (300 Warren Ave.).
2. The American Visionary Art Museum (800 Key Hwy.) is a local gem, not just for eccentric exhibits but for community events like outdoor movie festival Flicks from the Hill.
3. The crab and cheddar pie at Dangerously Delicious Pies (1036 Light St.) is one of tat-covered chef Rodney Henry’s killer specialties.
4. Locals love SoBo Café (6 W. Cross St.) for its cheerful décor (including local art) and amazing macaroni and cheese.
5. Get the $50 “Book Pass” at The Book Escape (805 Light St.)—a welcoming hangout with reams of new and used books—for access to extended evening hours in the summer and steep discounts year-round.
6. Nightly comedy and magic shows make Illusions Bar & Lounge (1025 S. Charles St.) one of the most interesting bars in town.
7. Cross Street Market (1065 S. Light St.) is a goldmine for thrifty foodies. Highlights include the hefty sandwiches at Big Jim’s Deli and tasty, inexpensive oysters, steamed shrimp, and sushi at Nick’s Inner Harbor Seafood.
8. Besides its namesake mollusks, Ryleigh’s Oyster (36 E. Cross St.) is good for what some locals describe as “the neighborhood’s best burger.” (Others stand by The Abbey Burger Bistro.) Homemade potato chips, too!
9. Seeing Kelli Kulnich behind the bar at Bluegrass Tavern (1500 S. Hanover St.) raises locals’ spirits. “She makes a good drink and she’s super friendly,” says one.

Hampden

Old and young, entrepreneurial and community-minded, blue-collar and bohemian: Hampden is an intriguing mix of opposites, a microcosm of Baltimore.

Why I Love My Neighborhood by Benn Ray
It happens every week. A group of folks stops in my store and says, “I wish we had a neighborhood like this where I live.”

But that isn’t the part that gets me. What makes me proud of Hampden are the answers I get when I ask where they are from. Answers like “New York.” “Washington.” “San Francisco.” “Chicago.”

What these folks covet is Hampden’s main street: “The Avenue,” which is nearly devoid of chain stores, instead favoring individually owned shops and boutiques staffed and managed by city residents who would be priced out in those other cities.

They are referring to Hampden’s unique character that comes from a micro-melting pot of lifelong residents and young artists and professionals—a mutually beneficial cohabitation of people of various socioeconomic backgrounds. They are referring to the real possibility that the person who just served them a meal or a drink at a local bar or restaurant is, more likely than not, in a band that just got a great review on NPR or www.pitchfork.com.

It’s the envy of others that keeps me from taking for granted what a truly unique and precious Baltimore City neighborhood Hampden is.

About the Writer
Benn Ray owns Atomic Books.

Insiders’ Tips

1. Mondays are the best night to be in Hampden. Holy Frijoles (908 W. 36th St.) has half-price margaritas, while Fraizer’s on the Avenue (919 W. 36th St.) has free pool, 45-cent wings, and an open mic. “We tattoo everyone who works there, from barbacks up to management,” Eric Gilbert, manager of Have Fun Be Lucky Tattoo, says of Frazier’s. “You always know you’ll have a good time when you go there.”
2. David’s Used Furniture (914 W. 36th St.) might be the best place in the city to shop for reasonably priced big-ticket items like bookshelves and armchairs.
3. The huevos rancheros and black bean burgers at Golden West Café (1105 W. 36th St.) are the top choice for area vegetarians.
4. HampdenFest is a less-crowded alternative to the already quirky Honfest. Held every September, the event features music and art exhibits, a film festival, local food and drink, and the legendary Charm City Beard & Moustache Championships.
5. Ironic though it may be, The Wine Source (3601 Elm Ave.) is the top beer source in town.
6. The savory pastries at Puffs & Pastries (830 W. 36th St.) are “satisfying and hearty,” says Martin Kasey, barista at Spro Coffee, who likes the pulled-pork with spinach and carrots.
7. Visit Griffith’s Tavern (3631 Hickory Ave.) to see the tiniest bar—maybe 10 seats—in town, and possibly the world.
8. Twenty20 Cycling Co. runs a cycling team out of the shop (725 W. 36th St.). “It’s pretty easy to get on the team,” says Twenty20 co-owner Johnny May. “We just ask that you love cycling and be cool to hang out with.”
9. Thrifty locals love the $4.23 falafel deal at King’s Pizza & Subs (907 W. 36th St.). “I’ve ordered it so many times that when I call, someone picks up and says ‘Okay, 10-15 minutes,’” reports Jason Willett, owner of The True Vine (3544 Hickory Ave.), The Avenue’s best record shop just around the corner.

Harbor East

Once a no-man’s-land between the Inner Harbor, Little Italy, and Fells Point, this little burg that could has become Baltimore’s Soho: The destination for high-end boutiques, restaurants, and nightlife.

Why I Love My Neighborhood by Max Weiss
When we moved our offices to “Inner Harbor East” in 1997, it was a virtual ghost town. There was a new restaurant called Charleston (that chef Cindy Wolf… will she make it?), a little deli/market that we affectionately referred to as the “smelly delly”—and that was pretty much it.

There were rumors—wild tales of a Whole Foods, a movie theater, of restaurants, monuments, and hotels. It all seemed like crazy talk. We would’ve been happy to get a place that sold a decent slice of pizza.

Oh, what a difference 14 years makes. In that time, Inner Harbor East got shortened—KFC style—to the snappier Harbor East. That Whole Foods did indeed come, plus a CVS, two pizza joints (with a third on the way), a bunch of blow-yer-paycheck boutiques (including South Moon Under, Urban Chic, and Handbags in the City), more restaurants (Lebanese Taverna, Roy’s, Oceanaire, to name a few), fancy office buildings, four hotels, and—cue the angels singing—a Starbucks.

But the best thing about Harbor East today is that it is both a fabulous bridge neighborhood—to Fells Point, Little Italy, and the Inner Harbor—and a bona fide destination. It reflects that urbane, sophisticated side of Baltimore—you know, the side out-of-towners don’t even know exists—and we’re proud to say that we were among the first..

About the Writer
Max Weiss is managing editor of Baltimore magazine.

Insiders’ Tips

1. Stop in the local Whole Foods (1001 Fleet St.) at lunchtime and visit Ms. Iris near the checkout lines for featured samples (sliders, meatloaf, soup) served with a heavy dose of Bawlmer charm.
2. At Thursday night wine tastings at Bin 604 (604 S. Exeter St.), sample the area’s best selection of vino, while meeting and mingling with the shop’s refined clientele—including lots of singles.
3. On Wednesdays, be sure to make your way to Central Avenue near Pratt Street, where the Gypsy Queen Café food truck doles out portable gourmet specialties like crabcake tacos and caramel chai doughnuts.
4. The bubble teas at Teavolve Cafe and Lounge (1401 Aliceanna St.) are a perfect accompaniment to the mellow live music popping off every Friday and Saturday night.
5. The Monday through Saturday happy hour at RA Sushi (1390 Lancaster St.), from 3 to 7 p.m., is a great scene, with $2 sake to wash down some of the best sushi in town.
6. You can get surplus fresh bread at absurdly low prices—75 cents for a loaf of white, $2.59 for two specialty whole- grain loaves—at the H&S Bakery Outlet Store (1616 Fleet St.).
7. Landmark Theatres (645 S. President St.) is the only cinema in town where you can bring drinks from the bar into the theater. Combine the martinis with the plush leather seats, and it’s also a great location for a stealth nap.

Mt. Vernon

The cobblestone streets lined with history and urban charm in central Baltimore mark not only a cultural and epicurean center, but, increasingly, a family-friendly residential neighborhood.

Why I Love My Neighborhood by Gary Vikan
Mt. Vernon is like a 19th-century theater. There’s no place in this country where you can walk out of your door and essentially walk back 150 years, almost as if you’re a player on the stage.

As I sit in my office and look out the window, just slightly to the right is the Washington Monument, circa 1829. Looking across the square, I see the beautiful Mt. Vernon Club, from 1842 and, of course, Mt. Vernon Place United, a Gothic church from the 1870s.

That is Mt. Vernon unanimated. In the last 10 years, it’s come to life with young people, artists, and people with dogs and kids, and it’s very vibrant.

My favorite spot is on the north side of the west park. In the spring and the fall, there are benches, which are in full sunlight, and you have a view of the monument and this entire rack of buildings that I’m in. Around lunchtime, kids in their little blue uniforms from Grace and St. Peter’s will be out there. It is sublime.

About the Writer
Gary Vikan is director of The Walters Art Museum.

Insiders’ Tips

1. Locals know spring has sprung when Towson University’s indie-minded NPR affiliate WTMD launches its First Thursday concert series in Mt. Vernon Square.
2. Nestled among the busy streets and cultural institutions is the lovely, thoroughly modern Mt. Vernon Children’s Park (1221 N. Calvert St.), with a big sandbox, water sprinklers, and sculptures.
3. At the über-casual Thairish (804 N. Charles St.), a gem among the top-tier eateries along Charles Street, owner/chef Kerrigan Kitikul doles out to-go platters of spicy Thai panang with unmatched charm.
4. The Walters Art Museum (600 N. Charles St.) is not only a world-class museum for grownups, but, on weekends, the basement is a perfect (and free!) drop-in play area, with art projects, dress-up clothes, and puzzles.
5. The new Milk & Honey Market (816 Cathedral St.) has great ambiance and the best selection of cheese south of Wegmans.
6. Student concerts at Peabody (1 E. Mt. Vernon Pl.) are a great, cheaper alternative to those at the Meyerhoff.
7. The annual late September Baltimore Book Festival in Mt. Vernon Square is the highlight of the city’s bibliophilic calendar.
8. More than just a quick bite before a show at CenterStage, Iggie’s (818 N. Calvert St.) has become a contender for the title of Baltimore’s top pizza place.

Station North

Launched a decade ago, Station North was the first area in the city to receive state designation as an Arts and Entertainment district. Today, the edgy arts neighborhood continues to blossom on North Avenue.

Why I Love My Neighborhood by Kevin Brown
My co-owner, William Maughlin, and I were two of the pioneers in the development of Station North, having been here since 2005. When we launched our business in the 1800 block of North Charles, the block was 80 percent vacant and no one wanted to come beyond The Charles Theater, let alone North Avenue. People would say it was nothing but junkies and methadone clinics.

Now, we’re throwing them out at closing time!

The Arts District designation by the state was, yes, supposed to bring artists, but also start economic development. There are still, what I call “pockets of poverty” and “islands of excellence,” but it’s happening. The North Avenue market, with Cyclops bookstore at one end and The Windup Space on the other, has three or four art spaces, businesses, and studios. And an Irish pub is going in.

Who’d ever have imagined an Irish pub on North Avenue?

Station North is a diverse place, and I see it becoming a destination neighborhood in the city. Not like Fells Point, Federal Hill, or Canton, sprawling with bars, but where there are hardware stores, galleries, cafes, and ice cream shops open during the day and live music, shows, and nightlife in the evening.

About the Writer
Kevin Brown is co-owner/ operator of Station North Arts Café Gallery.

Insiders’ Tips

1. Michael Ross, a drummer who rehearses next door to Joe Squared (133 W. North Ave.), is among many who swear by the crab pizza, with garlic sauce, crab, cilantro, zucchini, red onion, egg, and three cheeses. “Just eat it right away,” he says. “The egg makes it weird the next morning.”
2. The ramshackle performance space at Cyclops Books & Music (30 W. North Ave.) belies the top local visual artists and national acts showing and playing here. To wit: Three bookstore veterans were just announced for Bonnaroo.
3. The experimental- and improvisational-musician gathering Out of Your Head Tuesdays at The Windup Space (12 W. North Ave.) remains spontaneous and vibrant.
4. Try the full Jong Kak combo at Jong Kak (18 W. 20th St.), which serves Korean barbecue over hot charcoals ’til 4 a.m.: marinated beef bulgogi, spiced pork, and chicken, with 10 different sides. Feeds a small crowd for $87.95.
5. On the first Saturday of every month from April to November, Station North Flea Market (North Ave. at the Howard St. Bridge) offers eclectic people watching and 40 to 50 vendors, artists, and artisans. Occasionally, someone brings a guitar.
6. The funky Bohemian Coffee House (1831 N. Charles St.) buzzes until 3 a.m. on weekends, featuring locally roasted Zeke’s Coffee, vegan offerings, art, poetry, and a wall dedicated to napkin sketches.
7. Driving north on Howard Street past North Avenue, the first alley on the right is a towering cathedral of the city’s best graffitti and street art. Beware of broken glass.
8. Employee-owned Artist & Craftsman Supply (137 W. North Ave.) serves MICA students and local artists. Also: make-your-own puzzles, paint-your-own masks, and little, red toy accordions.

Towson

A college town situated at the edge of Baltimore City, Towson’s walkable downtown strikes a unique balance, serving students and professionals alike while maintaining the homey feel of leafy residential neighborhoods nearby.

Why I Love My Neighborhood by Scott Recher
My family had been in the movie business, owning the Towson movie theater since 1959, so I’ve been coming here for a while. Thirty years ago, I used to frequent bygone places like The Crease, Poor Richard’s, and Angel’s Grotto. Towson’s the county seat, so there’s a large government presence, lawyers and business people, during the day. Everybody says that at night the government workers leave and the college kids take over.

The theater closed in 1992. My brothers Brian, Steve, and I re-opened it first as Rec Room Billiards in ’96. We got the liquor license later that year, which really helped us grow. In ’99, we became the Recher Theatre, a full-time music venue. In 2000, we opened the Rec Room sports bar next door. Now we’re adding an upscale lounge/dining room.

We keep evolving. So does Towson, I think.

About The Writer
Scott Recher co-owns The Recher Theatre and The Rec Room.

Insiders’ Tips

1. The White Stripes, Sonic Youth, and the Jonas Brothers have all played the Recher Theatre (512 Yord Rd.). It’s not just for kids, either: Aimee Mann comes in April and the Wailers this summer.
2. Zia’s (13 Allegheny Ave.) is the organic cafe, juice bar, and mini-market of choice for TU students looking for an alternative to Jerry’s Subs. Monthly raw-food dinners and juice—”try the carrot and pineapple,” says one undergrad—are among the local favorites.
3. Newcomer Havana Road (8 W. Pennsylvania Ave.) has the-real-deal Cuban fare, with signature salsa, mojo, pepino, and other products in-store and at local markets.
4. Loch Raven High grads Seth and Jack Revelle founded independent Ukazoo Books (730 Dulaney Valley Rd.) with all the right ingredients: comfy chairs, readings, complimentary coffee and tea, and 100,000 books.
5. Pho Dat Thanh (510 York Rd.), next to the Recher, is the best place to watch visiting foodies and rock stars eating Vietnamese noodles.
6. Visit the original Record & Tape Traders (736 Dulaney Valley Rd.)—the last one standing—for Howlin’ Wolf vinyl, Caleb Stine on the listening post, incense, and Stones T-shirts.
7. Students go to Burger Bros. (14 Allegheny Ave.)—an old-time burger joint with Formica tables, tile floors, fresh-squeezed lemonade, baked brioche buns, and Idaho potatoes hand-cut daily—on Sunday for a half-price burger and drink purchase with college I.D.
8. No one seems to know why or how Towson became a sushi mecca. Sushi Hana (6 E. Pennsylvania Ave.) wins best-bet honors.

Baltimore has always been a city of neighborhoods, each with its own character and charm. Over the years, once-glorious blocks fall into disrepair, abandoned burgs are built up, people move in and move out, and the essence of a neighborhood evolves. In recent years, despite difficult economic conditions, several parts of Baltimore have grown by leaps and bounds. Harbor East, once an industrial wasteland, is now flourishing with high-end restaurants, boutiques, and condos. The once-grimy stretch of North Avenue near Penn Station has been dubbed Station North and dotted with galleries, performance spaces, and cafes. The abandoned cotton mills west of Hampden have been converted into verdant residential and commercial spaces, drawing young professionals and families. These areas—and the seven others profiled in our Hot ‘Hoods package—are a testament to the resilience of our city and a road map to its vibrant future.

HARBOR EAST

By day, suited Legg Mason or Morgan Stanley types cruise the Whole Foods crafting a perfect salad, then stop to look at shoes at Sassanova or Benjamin Lovell on their way back to work. They may pick up a bottle of Sauvignon Blanc at Bin 604 or lilies at The Dutch Connection before heading back to one of the condo towers nearby, like the Vue or Spinnaker Bay. By night, the city’s savviest diners flock to Charleston, Cinghiale, Ra Sushi, or Lebanese Taverna before catching a flick at Landmark Harbor East—the only cinema in the city that serves cocktails.

As recently as 10 years ago, Harbor East was a dark, industrial no-man’s-land between the Inner Harbor and Fells Point populated by H&S Bakery warehouses and not much else. When Cindy Wolf and Tony Foreman planted their flagship restaurant Charleston on the corner of Exeter and Lancaster Streets in the late ’90s, it was the beginning of a transformation. Now, a dozen restaurants share sidewalk space with upscale shops like Urban Chic and Arhaus. New residents include young business people, Hopkins and University of Maryland hospital staffers, and several current and former Orioles. The recently completed Circle at Harbor East—address of the new Legg Mason tower and the forthcoming Four Seasons Hotel—features the glittering gold Katyn Memorial (marking the murder of Poles in Soviet-occupied Poland), an important landmark in a neighborhood that only seems to be gaining in status.

The Lowdown Local Hangouts: Whole Foods (1001 Fleet St., 410-528-1640) anchors the neighborhood and, even in this foodie haven, is always the fall-back option for lunch; The massive Maryland Athletic Club (655 President St., 410-625-5000) boasts four pools, four squash courts, and babysitters to watch the kids while you work out. Median Home Price (last five years): $595,000 Most Expensive House: A three-bedroom, 3.5-bath penthouse at The Vue went for $1.6 million in 2009.

EVERGREEN

The small cluster of homes and businesses on and near Cold Spring Lane and Keswick Road have quietly separated themselves from the considerably stuffier Roland Park environs and become one of Baltimore’s hippest, most charming enclaves. Students from nearby Loyola University mix easily with young, often progressive professionals and families—Obama signs dotted the landscape like locusts in 2008—on its ample sidewalks, in Stony Run Park, and along the inviting stretch of eateries along Cold Spring Lane.

The first Baltimore neighborhood to be constructed of suburban-style detached homes instead of row houses—it predates Roland Park—Evergreen’s leafy environs, ample porches, and walkable access to restaurants and stores help residents strike a friendly, community-oriented vibe. Evergreen is also home to hordes of dogs and their people, all of whom love the illicit, leash-less life of Stony Run Park. And with homes both humbler and less pricey than most in greater Roland Park, there’s a certain cohesive neighborhood pride that doesn’t exist in many Baltimore burgs.

The Lowdown Pride of the ‘Hood: Evergreen is close to some of the city’s best public schools, including Roland Park Elementary/Middle (5207 Roland Ave., 410-396-6420), Baltimore Polytechnic Institute (1400 Cold Spring Ln., 410-396-7026), and Western (4600 Falls Rd., 410-467-3767). Median Home Price (last 10 years): $241,780 Most Expensive House: A six-bedroom, 3-bath home on the 4600 block of Schenley Road went for $487,905 in 2005. Overheard: “I need to pick up some organic bones for Buster and spread my compost before I head to the community association meeting.”

BOLTON HILL

Smack dab in the middle of the city, Bolton Hill combines everything that’s great about Baltimore. A neighborhood rich in history, it has also welcomed a hip, progressive community of young artists, professionals, and families. Filled with classic 19th-century architecture, it’s also home to some of the city’s most avant-garde buildings. It hosts august institutions, like the Meyerhoff and the Lyric, and more forward-thinking ones, like the Maryland Institute College of Art. Site of the city’s biggest annual cultural event, Artscape, Bolton Hill also holds lovely community-oriented events, like October’s Festival on the Hill, which last year featured a steel-drum band, craft displays, and a whole block dedicated to creative activities for kids.

The stars of Bolton Hill are its elegant townhouses, almost all of which date back more than a century, housing everyone from F. Scott Fitzgerald to Woodrow Wilson. Today, the homes are filled with one of the city’s most diverse populations, with residences from a broad range of ethnic, religious, and economic backgrounds. In recent years, many of the new residents have been young families looking for a dynamic urban lifestyle. The local public school, Mt. Royal Elementary/Middle, is among the best in the city, and a new K-8 public charter school focused on community involvement, Midtown Academy, opened in 1997. “For couples looking for the true wonderful urban experience, nothing beats Bolton Hill,” says Realtor and 20-year-resident Ricki Rutley.

The Lowdown Local Hangouts: Crowded with 19th-century townhouses, Bolton Hill doesn’t have a lot of space for restaurants or retailers, but the superb bistro, b (1501 Bolton St., 410-383-8600), and café/market, On the Hill (1431 John St., 410-225-9667), almost make up for it. Median Home Price (2009): $311,610 Most Expensive House: A three-story Victorian townhouse on Eutaw Place with four bedrooms, two full and two half bathrooms sold for $879,000 in 2006.

FELLS POINT

Like Mt. Vernon and Bolton Hill, Fells Point is a place where you feel the weight of hundreds of years of history. The neighborhood—which has been on the National Register of Historic Places since 1969—was one of the nation’s biggest shipbuilding hubs as far back at the 18th century and has seen wave after wave of immigrants wash up on its shores, each leaving its distinct impression on the area.

Since at least the 1970s, when Bertha’s, Ledbetters, and The Horse You Came In On set up shop, Fells Point has been a premier destination for nightlife. These days, the waterfront section of Fells is the rare area that exists both as tourist destination and as a living neighborhood, where blue-collar folks still live, work, and eat at places like Jimmy’s Restaurant (801 S. Broadway, 410-327-3273) and the lunch counter at Vikki’s Deli in the Broadway Market (1640-41 Aliceanna St., 410-276-6996).

Many of the immigrants in recent decades are Latinos, and they have largely transformed Upper Fells Point into a foodie destination, with outlets like Arcos (129 S. Broadway, 410-522-4777), Tortilleria Sinaloa (1716 Eastern Ave., 410-276-3741) and El Rinconcito Peruano (1801 E. Lombard St., 410-276-2036). As a result, the area, long considered a blighted corner of downtown, has begun to attract Hopkins professionals and young families from other areas of the city and has a bright future.

The Lowdown VIP Resident: Olympic gold medalist Michael Phelps. Claims to Fame: Where the USS Constellation—the U.S. Navy’s first ship to set sail—was built, in 1797 (not to be confused with the later USS Constellation, the last all-sail warship, which is moored in the Inner Harbor); the central setting for ’90s NBC drama Homicide: Life on the Street. Median Home Price (last five years): $318,028. Most Expensive House: The three-bedroom, three full and two half bathroom fifth-floor condo at 967 Fell St.—with a fireplace and two-car garage—sold for $1.7 million in 2007. Overheard: “Vamos a buscar algunos cangrejos de Sal’s, hon!” (“Let’s go get some crabs at Sal’s, hon!”)

ELLICOTT CITY

Gretchen Shuey scoops green, organic Mexican beans from the 150-pound burlap bags that blanket the dusky wood floor of her historic Ellicott City shop, Bean Hollow. While Shuey works, customers—most of whom she knows by name—congregate for cappuccino and conversation. “People love this area because there are no chain stores on Main Street,” says Shuey whose shop sits on the site of a former funeral home. “And ghosts are a big topic of conversation. People who live here really believe in them because this place has so much history.”

In recent years, a new generation of young families have moved to the area, because of its accessibility to downtown and, more importantly, its small-town feel. Mom and pop shops like Ellicott’s Country Store (penny candy, anyone?) and Yates Market dot the downtown district, while suburban staples like Barnes & Noble, Target, and Starbucks are kept a few miles away. “We love it when visitors from Europe come here and say this reminds them of an old European town,” says Rachelina Bonacci, executive director of Howard County Tourism Council. “This place is like living in an enchanted storybook.”

The Lowdown Claims to fame: Ellicott City was the largest flour-milling center in the American colonies; the Wilkins-Rogers plant is the last commercial grist mill in Maryland; America’s first railroad terminal was built here to service the first 13 miles of track laid in America in 1831. Local Hangouts: The Wine Bin (8390 Main St., 410-465-7802) will host monthly movie nights this summer; Patapsco Valley State Park (8020 Baltimore National Pike, 410-461-5670) with more than 40 miles of pristine hiking trails; the Howard County Library (9421 Frederick Rd., 410-313-5577), which is one of the most-used library systems in the country. VIP Residents: H.L. Mencken summered here in 1889 and 1890; mathematician Benjamin Banneker was a native son. Median Home Price (2009): $380,000 Most Expensive House: $5.25 million for “Bushy Park Farm,” a 1771, 8 bedroom, 3.5 bath historic farmhouse on Carrs Mill Rd.

WOODBERRY

A few years ago, if you asked someone about Woodberry, they would give you a puzzled look. “Oh, you mean TV Hill?” Though the neighborhood is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it wasn’t until a few years ago that Hampden denizens and artists migrated west and made Woodberry a neighborhood of its own. During the 1890s, about 4,000 people were employed in the various cotton mills in the area. Today, many of these mills make perfect settings for galleries, shops, apartments, and offices.

In certain parts of Woodberry—with its stone houses and woodsy surroundings—it’s easy to forget you’re in Baltimore City. But, look closer, and hip city life abounds: dining at nationally recognized farm-to-table restaurant Woodberry Kitchen; touring the studio of renowned glass blowing artist Anthony Corradetti (2010 Clipper Park Rd., 410-243-2010); hopping on the neighborhood’s Light Rail stop to head downtown; or working out at the expansive Meadow Mill Athletic Club (3600 Clipper Mill Rd., 410-235-7000). It’s this best-of-both-worlds vibe that makes Woodberry the city’s newest mecca.

The Lowdown Local Hangouts: The catalyst for the neighborhood renaissance was the opening of Woodberry Kitchen (2010 Clipper Park Rd., 410-464-8000), which is packed on a nightly basis and serves organic, locally grown food; if it’s just a beer and a burger you’re after, head to friendly sports bar Kolpers Restaurant & Lounge (1520 Clipper Mill Rd., 410-336-3267); to check out a unique art installation, go to The Amaranthine Museum (2010 Clipper Park Rd., 410-523-2574) where artist Les Harris created a labyrinth of his life’s work. Median Home Price (last five years): $235,000 Most Expensive House: A three-bedroom, 3.5-bathroom green construction duplex on Woodberry Ave. sold for $761,395 in August 2008.

FEDERAL HILL

Lunchtime at Federal Hill’s Cross Street Market is a full-contact sport. At Nick’s seafood, locals swig cheap beer and chow down on fried oysters and soft-shell-crab sandwiches while several stalls over, at Big Jim’s Deli, patrons sit on black bar stools and pack down mile-high hot corned beef melts oozing with Swiss and slaw. “I’ve been coming to this market since I was a kid,” says Anna Epsilantis, who owns Big Jim’s. “Last year, when this business turned 30, 140 people pitched in from the neighborhood and threw me a surprise party across the street at The 8 x 10 Club. That’s the kind of place Federal Hill is. Where else are you going to find people who care so much?”

While Federal Hill has long been a destination for weekend revelers looking for a continuation of college, neighborhood residents (most of whom live primarily in late 19th-century two-and-three-story row houses) include an amalgam of young professionals, old-timers, and first-time home owners who truly love the small-town feeling that they get from living in their ‘hood. “We call ourselves, ‘The Federal Hellions,'” jokes longtime resident Keith Losoya, past president of the Federal Hill Neighborhood Association. “We plant our feet down when it comes to development and change. We like to say, ‘We hold the Hill.'”

The Lowdown Claim to Fame: Location, location, location—from Federal Hill, residents can walk to a Ravens or Orioles game, the Maryland Science Center, and The American Visionary Art Museum; Federal Hill has some of the best bars and nightlife in Baltimore City; the Heart Attack on a Plate Burger from Mothers Bar & Grille (1113. S. Charles St., 410-244-8686) was voted by the Food Network as Maryland’s best burger. VIP Residents: Former first daughter Jenna Bush Hager and her husband, Henry; The Wire’s David Simon and his wife Laura Lippman, the writer; Tom Clancy; WJZ-TV’s Mark Viviano. Median Home Price (last 10 years): $234,000 Most Expensive Home: $1,823,000 for 2 bedroom 2.5 bath waterfront apartment in the Ritz Carlton Residences at 801 Key Highway (sold in 2009) Overheard: “I love you, man. Shots!”

CANTON

While a ship sounds its horn from a distant dock and a winking Natty Boh peers out over the new townhomes and formstone row houses, Lisa Valle lets loose her canine charges at the corner of South Bouldin and Toone streets. As Harrison, Molly, and JB socialize and squat under the crab apple trees, Valle bends down to pet Jeb, a dachshund-beagle mix. “I would never forget to say, ‘Hi’ to you,” says Valle, who works for the Canton-based Doghouse Girls. Canton Dog Park, started and solely supported by area residents, is a neighborhood hub, though people flock here from all over the city to enjoy the city’s first off-leash dog park. “It’s like a Cheers Bar for dogs,” explains Valle. “We all know every dog by name even though we don’t always know each other by name. It’s a place where everyone comes together.”

Long the domain of Polish, Welsh, and German immigrants, in recent decades Canton has attracted young people drawn to the nightlife, particularly around O’Donnell Square, and, now, many young families have put down roots and are committed to staying in the city. “If you don’t have a dog, a kid, or a drinking problem,” jokes longtime resident Nina McCarthy, “you don’t belong in Canton.” Adds Amy Jubb, a nine-year resident, “The second you pee on the pregnancy stick, and it turns positive, you don’t have to call the Realtor and move. This is a great place to stay and raise a family.”

The Lowdown Local Hangouts: Too many to list, including Patterson Park Community Pool ($25 for the season); Patterson Park Ice Rink (200 S. Linwood Ave., 410-396-9392); First Fridays at the Can Company (2400 Boston St., 443-573-4460); Jack’s Bistro (3123 Elliott St., 410-878-6542) for chocolate macaroni and cheese; Firehouse Coffee Co. (1030 S. Linwood Ave., 410-522-2199) for free Wi-Fi; Looney’s Pub (2900 O’Donnell St., 410-675-9235) for watching Ravens games; Yappy Hour at Dogma (3600 Boston St., 410-276-3410) on the first Friday of every month. VIP Residents: Orioles second baseman Brian Roberts, 98 Rock’s Josh Spiegel, WBAL-TV’s Jayne Miller, and WBFF-TV’s Megan Gilliland. Most Expensive House: Two bedroom, 2.5-bathroom Anchorage Tower penthouse at 2515 Boston St. for $645,000 in 2009.

STATION NORTH

Many folks who troll dreary North Avenue on a daily basis hear all this talk of a renaissance in the area just north of Penn Station and say, “Huh?” But they’re coming at the wrong time. “If you really want to get a sense of Station North,” says district association executive director David Bielenberg, “you need to be there between 8:30 and 9:30 on a Saturday night.” That’s when you’ll see your old stereotypes about this stretch of North Avenue seriously debunked by the hordes of twentysomething art, music, and restaurant fans that are swarming over the reborn district.

In just a couple years, the old hipster destinations in the ‘hood—The Charles Theatre, Club Charles, Everyman Theatre, and Tapas Teatro—have been joined by a slew of newer galleries, cafes, bookstores, and theaters that have popped up like dandelions through the sidewalk. “The successful model that’s emerging is the combination business with the art gallery, performance venue, poetry readings, and cafe,” says Bielenberg, citing The Windup Space (12 W. North Ave., 410-244-8855) and Joe Squared (133 W. North Ave., 410-545-0444).

Beyond the galleries—many of which cater to current MICA students—there’s an older crowd including MICA alums with day jobs who are drawn to the theater offerings, including those at newer stages like the Single Carrot Theatre. And just down the street, there are architects, venture capitalists, medical researchers, and other mainstreamers who’ve moved into Railway Express, the historic-post-office-turned-upscale-apartments across St. Paul Street from Penn Station.

“Who would have thought that in our lifetime, North Avenue would have anything decent on it?” says Marty Azola, historic renovator and managing partner of Railway Express. “With so much being driven by the expansion of MICA on the north and the University of Baltimore to the south, I can’t think of another neighborhood where there’s so much going on.”

The Lowdown VIP Residents: You haven’t heard of them yet, but they’re luminaries in their own ‘hood, like owner Russell De Ocampo of Windup Space and Myrtis Bedola and Alex Hyman of the 5,000-square-foot Galerie Myrtis (2224 N. Charles St., 410-235-3711), who moved their fine art operation from Capitol Hill three years ago to get in on the ground floor of Station North. Local hangouts: During the day, the happening spots are the Station North Arts Café (1816 North Charles St., 410-625-6440), Sofi’s Crepes, and the Cyclops bookstore, which, like so many of the enterprises here, also has poetry readings, peformances, and photo exhibits. Most Expensive Property: Five bedroom, two full, two half bathroom row house with five fireplaces on St. Paul Street sold for $490,000 in 2006.

ANNAPOLIS

With the wind whipping off the nearby Chesapeake Bay and church bells ringing in the distance, the usual crowd of state legislators, midshipmen—called “middies” here—and third-generation Annapolitans rub elbows at Chick and Ruth’s Delly, huddling over heaps of gut-busting waffles and crab omelets. At precisely 8:30, owner Ted Levitt puts his right hand over his heart, faces the American flag hanging next to the sandwich specials, and leads the crowd through a daily recitation of the Pledge of Allegiance. “We’ve been saying the Pledge for 21 years,” says Levitt. “There was a time when people were talking about flag burnings, and the Pledge was no longer being said in schools. We felt this was the right thing to do.” Levitt’s led the patriotic ritual every day since February 12, 1989.

It’s an apt act for America’s first capital and Maryland’s state capital. But Annapolis’s appeal doesn’t end at this landmark restaurant in the shadow of State Circle. With stately Victorian and Georgian mansions on narrow, cobblestone streets, chichi boutiques, great food (French to Irish), and water, water everywhere, locals are learning to share with an influx of young singles and families drawn to the historic hub. Says Susan Steckman, vice president of communications for the Annapolis & Anne Arundel County Conference & Visitors Bureau, “People come here to visit for a day and end up staying for a lifetime.”

The Lowdown Local Hangouts: Rams Head Tavern, rated one of the top nightclubs in the country, hosts headliners from Lyle Lovett to Buckwheat Zydeco (33 West St., 410-268-4545); Pusser’s Carribean Grille (80 Compromise St., 410-626-0004) is notable for dockside dining and crab quesadillas; locals love Quiet Waters Park (600 Quiet Waters Park Rd., 410-222-1777) for frolicking with Fido and the new, state-of-the-art, $16 million Truxtun Park Recreation Center (273 Hilltop Ln., 410-263-7958) for rock climbing. VIP Residents: Annapolis’s native sons include Project Runway’s Christian Siriano (who worked at The Westfield Mall prior to the competition) and Good Charlotte guitarist Billy Martin. Writers Tom Clancy and Barbara Kingsolver and Chicago White Sox pitcher Gavin Floyd have also had Annapolis addresses. Most Expensive House (last 10 years): a five-bedroom, 3.5-bathroom 1910 Victorian, 1 Southgate Ave. on Spa Creek sold for $3.5 million in 2006. Hot Topic: Who has better crab cakes: Cantler’s Riverside Inn (458 Forest Beach Rd., 410-757-1311) or Mike’s Bar & Crab House (3030 Riva Rd., 410-956-2784)? 

Perennially Hot ‘Hoods
Seven that stand the test of time.

By Ken Iglehart

In every major city, there are premiere addresses, neighborhoods that are always in demand regardless of passing trends or real estate values, where homes often sell by word of mouth for the asking price—and Baltimore is no different.
It’s not news that our seven such communities have remained prime real estate generation after generation—some would have been on the “hot/new” list in 1930. And while these staid enclaves may not be where you’d go for a rollicking good Saturday night, they’re still hot from a real estate perspective.

Ruxton
This shady, upscale enclave on the City line with Baltimore County is on the Light Rail line to Hunt Valley, but forget about stopping here. Ruxtonites fought tooth and nail 20 years ago to make sure there was no easy mass-transit access to their neighborhood, with its Gilded-Age megahomes, large lots, and quaint village center. (It’s also home to the exclusive L’Hirondelle country club.) The plaid people with Nantucket stickers on their Lexuses live here, and they want to be left alone.

Roland Park
In Charm City, where you’re stereotyped by the name of your ‘hood and where you “prepped,” Roland Park—one of America’s oldest planned neighborhoods—remains a 135-year-old synonym for wealth, power, and education. The houses along Roland Avenue and its hilly, forested sidestreets are often large and grand, the village center is polite and bourgeois, bustling with designer-outfitted denizens who all seem to know each other. So maybe it’s no surprise that it’s also home to some of the state’s most prestigious private secondary schools, as well as one of the best public elementary schools in Baltimore. And unlike some other high-end areas, it’s also completely surrounded by solid neighborhoods, serving as a buffer, of sorts, from crime, grime, or, God forbid, falling resale values.

Mt. Washington
In the late 1800s, Mt. Washington was a hilly, leafy, summer getaway for wealthy doctors, lawyers, and captains of industry, a respite from the tarmac-fueled heat, noise, crowds, and filth of downtown. Some things haven’t changed: The imposing Victorian and Edwardian “grand cottages” may now mix with the occasional upscale contemporary home, giving the community an eclectic feel, but it still boasts the huge, mature trees, quiet streets, family-friendly parks, and residents who tend to be highly educated and generally well-heeled. The historic-riverside-mill-turned shopping area and the original village center of shops and restaurants gives the ‘hood the feel of a small town. (And if you’re a developer thinking of changing that, beware of a powerful community association.) It also boasts, arguably, the city’s best public elementary school.

Homeland
The Roland Park Homeland Company purchased the 391-acre parcel that would become Homeland in 1924 for $1 million and, to lay it out, hired the Boston firm of the Olmsted Brothers, which had also designed New York’s Central Park. Its rolling terrain evoked the English flavor the company was looking for, and it continues to reflect that today with a mix of large stone cottages, faux Tudor architecture, and streets lined with massive 100-year-old trees. It’s affluent and conservative, and it’s in the city limits, but doesn’t feel like it.

Guilford
If there’s one return address sure to impress your neighbors, it’s this place, parts of which make Roland Park look like Guilford-lite. Also planned by the Olmsted firm and developed by the Roland Park Company in the early 1900s, it encompasses about 800 homes and has stunning examples of early-20th-century architecture, from über cottages to stately mansions reminiscent of the drippy estates in Newport, Rhode Island. It’s also known for its community parks, shady streets, and the tulip fields at Sherwood Gardens.

Columbia
The streets look the same, the housing looks the same, even the shopping destinations are designed to blend in with the original vision of developer James W. Rouse, who opened the town for business in 1967. Big, garish signage? Forget it. (And good luck finding the signs there are, because they’re so darned understated.) But with a booming, upper-middle-class population of nearly 100,000, Columbia has acquired many of the characteristics of other contemporary U.S. suburbs, such as increasingly large homes and big-box retail stores. Howard County’s top-rated public schools and its proximity to both Baltimore and Washington, D.C., keep this community in high demand for those who can afford it.

Ashburton
Located north of Liberty Heights Avenue near the Forest Park area of Northwestern Baltimore City, Ashburton is a well-kept secret. Dating to the roaring ’20s, it offers large mature trees and gracious homes that for many years have attracted prominent African-Americans, including Baltimore’s former mayor Kurt L. Schmoke, State Sen. Lisa Gladden, State Sen. Catherine Pugh, Clerk of the Court Frank Conaway Sr., State Delegate Shawn Z. Tarrant (whose home was used as Lt. Daniels’s in The Wire), attorney A. Dwight Pettit, and many others. It was also the childhood home of new mayor Stephanie Rawlings-Blake, daughter of the late state legislator Howard “Pete” Rawlings. 

Why It Matters

• For centuries, Baltimore City grew right along with its suburbs, annexing one ring of new developments after another. Then, in 1948, Maryland voters approved a constitutional amendment known as Question 5 that made future annexations by the city all but impossible.
• The timing couldn’t have been worse. In the postwar years, wealthy city residents moved to the suburbs in droves, leaving the core of our metropolitan area saddled with the bulk of the poor and needy—and without the tax base to provide services for them. Unlike in the past, the city was now unable to capture any of the booming suburban wealth it had done so much to create.

To explain what is meant by “Baltimore Seals Its Borders,” we need to go back to the election season of 1948—by any measure, one tumultuous affair. With the nation transfixed by a Dewey-Truman presidential race so tight that some media outlets predicted the wrong winner, Marylanders also juggled a combustible array of controversial bond issues and referendum questions. Citizen interest in politics was so high that, in Baltimore County, an astonishing 93 percent of registered voters turned out at the polls.

Amid this hullabaloo, no one paid much mind to a drab-sounding referendum question down near the bottom of the ballot. Proposed by Democratic state Senator William P. Bolton of Baltimore County, Question 5 sought to amend the state constitution so that any future land annexations by Baltimore City would require a special vote of approval by the residents living within the proposed annexation area.

To folks who weren’t avid followers of how annexation worked, this probably sounded innocent enough. But those who were paying attention knew what the question was really getting at—and that it would ultimately prevent any new annexations by the city.

Still, the issue had no pressing immediacy attached to it. Three decades had passed since the city last gobbled up any new land, in 1918. There were no annexation proposals on the table in 1948, and there were no plans to introduce any in the foreseeable future.

That’s why Baltimore City greeted the appearance of Question 5 with a big yawn of indifference. The city’s representatives in Annapolis didn’t try and stop it from getting on the ballot; in fact, some of them voted with Bolton to put it there. The Chamber of Commerce didn’t see a need to take a position either way. The Sun papers barely mentioned the issue, offering one tiny and tepid editorial of opposition in the run-up to the election.

So, on November 2, 1948, Question 5 passed by a close-but-comfortable margin. The day after the election, this result earned a grand total of one paragraph, buried deep beyond the jump in the Sun’s election roundup.

Today, it earns this from Robert Embry, the president of the Abell Foundation: “It’s hard to think, looking back, of any single public decision that’s proved to be more important to Baltimore City than that question in the 1948 election. It was a very shortsighted decision.”

The reason is a straightforward one: Healthy cities grow, and unhealthy cities don’t.

The fact that Baltimore landed in the unhealthy category for much of the last half of the 20th century isn’t exactly news at this point. Like so many other industrial cities, it struggled to combat a daunting array of urban ills—failing schools, distressed neighborhoods, high unemployment, excessive taxes, declining population, and high crime rates among them.

In the mid-1990’s, Embry’s Abell Foundation asked urban affairs expert David Rusk to take a look at the city, its problems, and its prospects. One thing that Rusk does in his 1998 book Baltimore Unbound: A Strategy for Regional Renewal is draw a straight line from that referendum vote in 1948 to the problems that continue to challenge Baltimore six decades later.

To put it simply: Question 5 turned Baltimore City from a shining jewel into a charity case.

Somewhere off of Lexington Street, in the upper stretches of downtown’s Charles Center development, there once ran a little alleyway called Crooked Lane. It was there—below today’s Saratoga Street—that the original Baltimore Town set its borders in 1730.

In a 1978 article in Maryland Historical Magazine, the late University of Maryland at Baltimore County historian Joseph L. Arnold detailed how Baltimore grew out of its original 60-acre spit of property and into its current boundaries. Early on, expanding the city was a routine affair; the General Assembly did it 12 different times in the 1700’s.

After the Civil War, Maryland adopted a state constitution that required county-to-county annexations be approved by residents subject to the switch. In the 1870s, Baltimore City decided to abide by this rule even though the law never mentioned the word city (an omission that Question 5 in 1948 would rectify). This time, the city had its eyes on “The Belt,” which encompassed such distant burgs as Highlandtown and Canton.

The city lost badly the first time around. In fact, city leaders nearly started a riot when they tried to hold a pro-annexation rally in Highlandtown. But they came back for another, successful try in 1888, by which time Belt residents had grown desperate for proper water and sewer lines.

The city stretched into its current borders in 1918, but only after a hellacious, decade-long fight that saw at least four different annexation proposals go down to defeat before a statewide referendum gave the city control of 35 square miles of Baltimore and Anne Arundel counties.

A civic organization called the Greater Baltimore League took the lead in campaigning for that annexation. One of its spokesmen, retired judge Henry D. Harlan, made folks who moved to the outskirts of the city and then fought against annexation sound like the equivalent of those modern-day folks who move next door to an airport and then complain about the noise.

“Those who locate near the city limits are bound to know that the time may come when the legislature will extend the limits and take them in,” Harlan is quoted as saying in the Sun. “No principle of right or justice or fairness places in their hands the power to stop the progress and development of the city, especially in view of the fact that a large majority of them have located near the city for the purpose of getting the benefit of transacting business or securing employment . . . in the city.”

Thirty years later, in 1948, it seems that no one remembered Harlan’s sensible-sounding argument anymore. Maryland’s voters changed their minds, approving Question 5 and fitting Baltimore City into a straitjacket of its 1948 boundaries.

Why bother slogging through all this ancient history? Because it’s not ancient history at all. When a constantly-expanding and vibrant Baltimore City lost its centuries-old ability to expand its borders, it ended up stuck with a preponderance of the region’s poor and needy—and a shortage of the region’s rich and wealthy. The city’s population reached an all-time high in 1950 of more than 949,000; soon thereafter, the exodus out to the new suburbs began. That’s a surefire recipe for civic decay. It happened not just here, but in Cleveland and Detroit and Milwaukee and lots of other cities as well.

But it didn’t happen that way everywhere. Think of cities like Houston, Columbus, Raleigh, and Albuquerque. What did these cities do that enabled them to sign on with the thriving Sun Belt and avoid the fate of the suffering Rust Belt? They did what healthy cities have been doing for centuries—they grew. And they did it the old-fashioned way, by annexing their suburbs—and sharing the wealth.

What if the 1948 election had turned out differently and this had happened in Baltimore, too? What if the city had stretched its borders out to the Beltway? What if it went beyond that, combining the city and the county into a single jurisdiction, whether in whole or in part? We can see real examples of how that worked in cities like Indianapolis and Jacksonville. Both towns implemented versions of this, and it’s worked out pretty well in both places, judging by their lower rates of crime, unemployment, and poverty.

“If Baltimore City and Baltimore County had consolidated—obviously, that’s something that’s not really possible any more, but if it had been possible and if it had happened—Baltimore would be the fifth largest city in America in population,” Rusk says. “It would have all kinds of different resources and tools and flexibility to deal with the urban problems.”

After 1948, Maryland had one more chance to correct the mistake of 1948. In the late 1960’s, the state considered adopting a new constitution that gave the state legislature the power to create “super governments” that would be empowered to oversee and coordinate regional efforts to combat problems across jurisdictions. This proposal did not go over well in Baltimore’s suburbs.

“It would be a matter of days before my friend Tommy [Baltimore Mayor Thomas J. D’Alesandro Jr.] would be calling for a new super government to include this county,” thundered Carroll County Commissioner Scott S. Blair. After an ugly campaign full of battle-between-the-races undertones, the new constitution went down to defeat at the polls.

And so Baltimore City remained stuck in its 1948 borders. “What that did,” Rusk says, “is cut off Baltimore City’s potential as a Sun Belt city and made it a northern Rust Belt city. It landed Baltimore in the company of Cleveland and Detroit, whereas it might have been able to be more in the category of Charlotte and Atlanta.”

Instead, back in the tumultuous election of 1948, Maryland broke ranks with the ways of the past in a way that landed Baltimore City on the losing side of that divide.