Puerto 511 Cocina Peruana owner Jose Victorio Alarcon made a name for himself cooking fine Peruvian food but always dreamed of owning a second spot celebrating Peruvian street food, namely the empanada.

That dream became reality in 2019 when he opened his beloved Andina. So it was particularly painful when he lost Andina in a divorce settlement. He turned his full attention back to Puerto 511, until a chance visit to a food court convinced him that he should make another go of it.

“I was with my girlfriend, Patricia, in this nice food court,” he says. “They had empanadas, so I ordered two. I was so disappointed—they were greasy and only had ground beef in them. I told my girlfriend, ‘When you try my empanadas, you’ll see the difference.’”

Not long after, Alarcon made a batch of the half-moon-shaped specialty he grew up eating in his home country. “When Patricia tried it,” says Alarcon, “she said, ‘You need to look for your own place—this is delicious.’”

Months later, while walking in Fells Point, he strolled past an empty storefront that formerly housed Sofi’s Crepes. For Alarcon, the brick-lined alley with outdoor tables offered a quiet charm. Last May, he decided to make his dream come true and opened Empa511 (the number is the country code for Peru).

“There was no kitchen, but Puerto opens at 5 p.m. and my cook starts at 3 p.m. The kitchen is empty in the morning, so we prepare everything at Puerto 511 and assemble and bake them on-site.”

Tell me what makes your empanadas special?
I make everything, including the dough, from scratch using my grandmother’s recipe. They’re not fried, they’re baked, and they’re slightly sweet—and none of the fillings are ground. I have huge pieces of chicken, pork, and steak. Everything is chopped and we make them daily, using Peruvian chiles—ají amarillo, ají rocoto, ají panca.

Do you have a favorite type of the seven you sell?
The Huachana is my favorite. It has pork, caramelized onion, and scrambled egg. I remember when my mom made them for breakfast in Peru.

Puerto 511 is more fine-dining. Is it fun for you to make Peruvian street food?
It’s the same flavor, but the price is more accessible.

What did you want the space to feel like?
I want it to smell good—we are always baking. I wanted it to feel minimalist. I also wanted to reduce plastic, so we don’t sell water, it’s free and the cups are compostable. The dishes are biodegradable. Reducing plastic and respect for the environment were important to me.

How did you learn to cook?
When I was a child, my mom always told me, you need to learn cooking so you have more opportunities in life. I studied business administration, but after three years, I didn’t feel very happy. I decided to go to cooking school. Before cooking school, I had never been outside my country. At school, I ended up winning an international competition. The kitchen changed my life.

Is there anything else you want us to know?
Empa511 is dog-friendly. I love dogs and have a Maltese-shih tzu mix named Dogman. He likes chicken empanadas.

Years ago, when they were living in Chicago, Jose Victorio Alarcon and his wife, Connie, made empanadas from their native Peru. The hot pockets were so popular, they started a business out of their home, selling them to friends, neighbors, and people in their community. After a move to Baltimore in 2013, they opened Puerto 511 on Clay Street, but had always hoped to recreate the empanada business they had in The Windy City.

“People would try our empanadas,” recalls Victorio, “and they’d say, ‘Oh my God, this is so good.’”

So late last year, the couple found a light-filled storefront space on Lexington Street and named it Andina.

“The name comes from the name for women who live in the Andes and prepare the food,” says Victorio. “It reflects the culture and history of the women in Peru. It’s a name to honor Connie’s mother and my mother, who were born in the Andes.”

Here are three things to know before paying a visit to the shop, which is currently open for carryout.

Snack Time
Peruvian people eat empanadas as an after-work snack.

Getting Saucy
There are dunking options, including a traditional chimichurri and a sweet rocoto sauce.

Flavor Town
Fillings include sausage, chicken, steak, eggs, potatoes, and vegetables.

Creole Soul: Ever since R. House said goodbye to Arba Mediterranean last month, regulars have been wondering what would fill the void in the Remington food hall. This week, it was announced that local pop-up Creole Soul—which emphasizes, you guessed it, New Orleans-style soul food—will settle in the space later this month. (Get a first taste this weekend when chef Que Neal and her fiancé, co-founder Dedric Richardson, take over R. House’s pop-up stall one last time before becoming a permanent vendor.) A grand opening event on December 20 will feature on-theme touches including Mardi Gras-inspired face painting, a King Cake, and live music by Rufus Roundtree. As for the menu, chef Neal will offer classics such as shrimp and grits, seafood gumbo, oyster po-boys, beignets, and “Mee Maw’s Famous” banana pudding.

In other R. House news, the communal spot will celebrate its third birthday with drink specials and festivities this weekend, and plans for the Little Baby’s Ice Cream stall—which closed last week after the Philadelphia-based company announced that it was shutting down all of its locations—will be announced next week. Stay tuned for more details.

Maximón: Atlas Restaurant Group is just about ready to reveal yet another concept in Harbor East. A swanky bash on New Year’s Eve will be the first night for diners to experience Maximón—the group’s Latin American-inspired restaurant set in the former home of Wit & Wisdom inside the Four Seasons Baltimore. After that, regular dinner service will begin on January 2. Chef Colin King, previously of New York restaurant group Empellon, will present a menu of ceviches, salads, and entrees including portobello fajitas and whole roasted bass with yucca and black mint. A selection of taco fillings range from Chesapeake catfish with Baja crema to oxtail with salsa verde. The bar program will also have a South American focus, offering an exclusive blend of tequila produced at the Patrón headquarters in Jalisco, Mexico.

Döner Brös: Back in 2015, Alex Politsch and Steven Banks went to Oktoberfest in Munich, Germany and fell in love with authentic döner meat—which is traditionally cooked on a vertical rotisserie. The duo brought the delicacy back to Baltimore and roamed around on their Döner Brös food truck for a year before debuting a brick-and-mortar location in Charles Village in 2018. Their salads, bowls, wraps, and sandwiches filled with the flavorful proteins have caught on so much, in fact, that the founders are preparing to debut another shop in Harbor Point this summer. In addition to the signature meats, fries, falafel, and Turkish nachos (fries layered with döner meat and nacho cheese), the new spot will also offer beer and wine. Plus, to accommodate business professionals in the area, it will highlight a special shareable menu for small groups that can be eaten on the go.

OPEN

Andina: Fans of Peruvian gem Puerto 511 have kept their eyes peeled for this spinoff empanada shop from husband-and-wife owners José Victorio Alarcon and Connie Vásquez. After four months of work, the restaurant has officially opened at 101 W. Lexington Street downtown. While Puerto focuses on refined dishes such as cassava fritters stuffed with ribeye and lomo saltado (stir-fried beef with fried potatoes and white rice), Andina offers more casual fare, including rice dishes and an expansive empanada menu. But, at both locations, the owners’ love for their culture shines through. “We can again say thanks to our dear Baltimore, a city that grows with people’s dreams,” the owners wrote in a post to Facebook. “Total thanks.”

Plantbar: On the heels of Red Pepper Sichuan Bistro’s debut on Allegheny Avenue in Towson, the block has also welcomed a new location of this homegrown juice bar and cafe—which has other spots scattered everywhere from Belvedere Square to Brewer’s Hill. Snag a seat in the space decorated with dark woods and interior greenery, to enjoy made-to-order juices, superfood smoothies, açai bowls, coffees, and wellness shots.

EPICUREAN EVENTS

12/5: Origins: A Speaker Series

In the latest installment of this sustainable speaker series at Artifact Coffee, listen in as Seeva and Vivek Malik of New Jersey-based Bhumi Growers explain the ins and outs of growing exotic citrus in the mid-Atlantic. Following the conversation, stick around for a family-style feast featuring some of the speakers’ prized produce. 6:30 p.m. $60

12/6: Noisy Burger at The Charmery Ice Cream Factory
Remember when students from Baltimore City’s Mergenthaler Vocational Technical High School first debuted their own burger pop-up at R. House in 2017? The young chefs are back in action and ready to host another community event with The Charmery this weekend. From 6-10 p.m., enjoy Noisy Burger’s turkey and beef patties topped with locally sourced ingredients alongside orders of fries. Of course, no burger is complete without a shake. And naturally, the team from the Charmery will be on hand to mix up signature flavors to pair with all of the eats.

SHUT

Jack and Zach’s: After eight years on North Charles Street in Mt. Vernon, this small-but-mighty diner closed its doors for good on November 27. “The J&Z red counter has been home to so many incredible customers and conversations over the years,” owners Jack Neill and Zachary Schoettler wrote in a message announcing the closure. “We’re grateful for all of you helping this little farm-to-table 12-seater become the community that we dreamed of.” Although diners will no longer be able to enjoy the duo’s hearty breakfast sandwiches and omelets in the space, this certainly isn’t the last we’ll see of Jack and Zach’s. In fact, the owners have teamed up with Larder in Old Goucher to host a brunch pop-up this Sunday, December 8 from 9 a.m.-2 p.m. Stop by to get your fix of locally sourced omelets, grits, bacon, and, of course, coffee blends from Larder’s trusty neighbor Sophomore Coffee.

NEWS

Water for Chocolate: Last week, chef Sean Guy unveiled the newly renovated and expanded version of his beloved brunch spot in Upper Fells Point. After two months of upgrades, the space now features a warmer feel with additional seating, wooden accents, modern backsplashes, and interior greenery. “We want to provide a better dining experience that’s on par with the food that we serve,” Guy said in a video announcing the changes back in May. Though the interior has gotten a fresh look, diners can still count on Guy’s tried-and-true dishes such as barbecue shrimp and grits, raisin bread French toast, and stuffed breakfast burritos.

Azumi: This Japanese steakhouse in Harbor East is taking teppanyaki to a whole other level. Come October, the Atlas restaurant will debut a brand new room for chefs to prepare meals in front of guests at two scheduled seatings per night. Equipped with six tables that can accommodate 36 diners, the room will feature a special menu with options such as king crab, lobster, scallops, Miyazaki wagyu, and kobe beef. Along with the addition to the space, Azumi has also brought on chef Anthony Micari as its director of Asian cuisine. Micari—who previously headed up the kitchen at Makoto in Miami—will work alongside executive chef Andy Gaynor at Azumi, while also helping to develop a future Atlas concept. Stay tuned for more details.

Doug Atwell Announces New Bar in Fells Point: We’ve been following Doug Atwell’s career since his days behind the bar at Rye (back when it was at its old location on South Broadway). Since then, the veteran bartender has gone on to head up the celebrated programs at Blue Pit BBQ and Dylan’s Oyster Cellar. Now, he’s getting ready to open a spot of his own. The Baltimore Business Journal reported earlier this week that Atwell is in the process of converting the former home of Santa Clara Bar & Restaurant in Fells Point into a new cocktail bar with a classic vibe. The spot will highlight killer Manhattans and Old Fashioneds, as well as interior touches like tin ceilings and a jukebox.

OPEN

With Love Company: The Parkville dining scene recently welcomed this healthful hangout on Harford Road—whose mission is summarized in a hand-painted wall mural that reads: “Everything begins and ends with love.” The eatery incorporates its plant-based and gluten-conscious philosophies into dishes such as lentil burgers, raw veggie lasagna, and sweet potato salads. To complement all of the eats, the menu also lists holistic juices and smoothies in varieties like pineapple-mango and peach-banana.

Pure Raw Juice: Speaking of juice, this local detox destination recently debuted its newest location at The Rotunda in Hampden. The new spot adds to the health-conscious community in the mixed-use development, neighboring other tenants like MOM’s Organic Market, Brick Bodies, and Corepower Yoga. For those in need of a post-workout pick-me-up, Pure Raw offers its signature smoothies, juice blends, and açai bowls like the “Electric Pink” filled with dragon fruit and granola.

Chilango’s Tequila Bar & Grill: Earlier this summer, we told you about this new Mexican destination taking over the former home of Modern Cook Shop in Fells Point. Now, owner Carlos Cruz has officially unveiled the restaurant—which is a sister spot to his Highlandtown haunt Carlos O’Charlies. Stop by to sample the strong margaritas paired with Cruz’s house recipes ranging from baked tilapia with tequila and garlic to a grilled flatiron steak in a spicy tomato chili sauce. The space itself has been completely transformed with classic cantina touches like wooden paneling and decorative sombreros.

COMING SOON

The Original Pancake House: Soon, Canton locals will be able to feast on flapjacks and fluffy omelets at this international breakfast favorite. Situated next to Outback Steakhouse in the Canton Can Company, the diner will mark the chain’s first Baltimore location. Be on the lookout for signature items including a lemon Dutch Baby, cherry crepes made with sweet Danish wine, and an apple pancake smothered in cinnamon sugar,

EPICUREAN EVENTS

8/13: Entré Amigos
Earlier this week, mayor Bernard C. “Jack” Young signed an executive order directing city agencies to protect immigrants. Local restaurants Bar Vasquez, Alma Cocina Latina, and Puerto 511 are also coming together to support the cause by launching this new dinner series that will benefit Families Belong Together—an organization that works to permanently end family separation and detention. “Baltimore welcomes diverse and creative entrepreneurs,” says Bar Vasquez co-owner Tony Foreman, who will host the series at the restaurant. “We all serve the many good people of this city and are proud to do it.”

For the next three Tuesday nights, the teams from Alma Cocina Latina (August 13), Puerto 511 (August 20), and Clavel (August 27) will head to the Argentinian restaurant to prepare passed appetizers, welcome cocktails, small dishes, a meat course, and a collaborative dessert with Bar Vasquez chef Marion Caño Catalan. The menus will collectively reflect all of the restaurants’ distinct regions and styles. Highlights from the first meal next week will include risotto-style arroz con pollo and mango flan.

8/12-18: Stone’s Throw Hash Pop-Up at R. House
This sweet potato hash concept, which prides itself on sourcing ingredients from purveyors just a stone’s throw away, is setting up shop at the R. House’s rotating pop-up stall next week. Founder Ben James created Stone’s Throw eight years ago, when he discovered that he was allergic to wheat. Gluten and paleo-friendly bowls to to try include the “Bay Be Blue Crab” (Chesapeake blue crab, free range eggs, pickled carrots, and Old Bay), “Wakey Wakey Apple Bacy” (shredded apples, seasonal greens, and pastured bacon) and the vegan “Buddha Hash” with crispy tofu and organic beets.

We think it’s safe to say that raw fish is having a moment. Of course, Charm City has its share of sushi spots, and poké bowls (the trendy Hawaiian delicacy that tops rice with cubes of uncooked fish) are also finding their footing. But ceviche—the marinated seafood staple with roots in South America—has proven itself to be particularly popular, especially as summer temperatures begin to peak.

“It’s very refreshing,” says Jose Victorio Alarcon, owner and executive chef of Peruvian destination Puerto 511 downtown. “In Peru, it’s traditional to call up your friends on a hot day and go out for ceviche and a cold beer.”

The dish, which is usually made with raw fish cured in citrus juices and spiced with chili peppers, is associated with Peru, but also can be seen in Central American countries, as well as throughout Mexico.

Even the team behind Clavel in Remington has transformed an adjoining garage into an authentic cevicheria inspired by co-owner and executive chef Carlos Raba’s native Sinaloa, Mexico.

“It’s always been our plan to mimic my upbringing,” Raba says. “Whenever I go somewhere I enjoy, I’m always thinking, ’How can I bring this place to Baltimore? How can I bring my family from Mexico here to experience the same things they have at home?’”

Although many recipes and techniques vary by region, local chefs agree that the perfect ceviche starts with one key ingredient.

“You always have to use quality fish no matter what,” says Enrique Limardo, executive chef at Canton’s Alma Cocina Latina, who names favorites including halibut, royal seabass, and red snapper. “In the end, you can mix in whatever flavors you want, but if the fish isn’t fresh, it’s not going to be good.”

Alarcon agrees, mentioning that the Peruvian version calls for a principal combination of a fresh white fish (like grouper or flounder), lime, salt, onion, and aji pepper. The difference, he says, lies in the marinating method.

“In a lot of Mexican or Central American ceviches, they marinate the fish for a few hours and sometimes let it sit overnight to serve the next day,” he explains. “But Peruvian ceviche only needs five minutes to marinate. It’s supposed to feel very fresh.”

The traditional Peruvian marinade—a citrusy juice dubbed Tiger’s Milk, or leche de tigre after its white color—also sets it apart from other styles. Alarcon notes Puerto 511’s ceviche clasico (fish and leche de tigre mixed with cilantro, red onion, glazed sweet potato, and Andean corn) as a customer favorite.

“At the restaurant, my wife goes around to the tables to teach people about the leche de tigre,” he says. “And she encourages them to drink the juice right from the plate because that’s how we do it in Peru.”

While Limardo also uses the Peruvian technique for his ceviche at Alma Cocina Latina, he puts his own spin on the dish by fusing the restaurant’s signature Venezuelan flavors (think tropical fruits like pineapple and mango) into the leche de tigre. Says Limardo: “No matter what dish we make, we always have to add a little bit of Venezuelan inspiration.”

At Points South Latin Kitchen in Fells Point, executive chef Rey Eugenio’s ceviches are influenced by a number of different cultures. Not only does he draw from his upbringing in the Philippines, but he also solicits input from his staff about traditions from their home countries throughout South America.

“You always want to be innovative, whether it means taking components from other countries or combining two different styles together,” Eugenio says. “In the Philippines, we have a dish that isn’t called ceviche, but it’s certainly similar to the traditional citrus-based ceviche. We even do a beef-style ceviche where raw beef is dressed in a citrus vinaigrette.”

Although there are seemingly endless ways to create a flavorful ceviche, Raba says that, above all, the dish is about simplicity.

“There are a lot of ways to play with it,” he says. “But too many elements will make you lose the essence of the ceviche.”

Alarcon, too, prefers to stick to the basics: “You feel the acidity from the lime, sweetness from the glazed sweet potato, spice from the pepper, and crunch from the corn,” he says. “In one plate, there are so many sensations.”